Suspension replacement requirements

MrRed2 · 12-01-2007, 10:49 AM

If I buy new struts, bushings, springs and a spring compressor, what else will I need to replace the suspension myself?

judaspriest517 · 12-09-2007, 05:26 AM

a way to remove and insert new bushings. people use two- or three- jaw pullers to remove them. if you have a torch then that works well too. to insert them: if you have a hydraulic press then that is awesome and will get the job done, if not a puller will do the job as well. oh and some grease.

Bak@EMSPowered · 12-09-2007, 08:31 AM

some people use a torch as well.

Gairloch · 12-09-2007, 02:02 PM

Depending on whether the gland nuts in your strut bodies are rusted or not you might need a hefty bench vice with a pry bar that can fit through the camber bolt holes in the strut bodies. Those things'll fight ya like a son of a bitch.
Hand tools of course.
Floor jack
Jack stands
Brake fluid & tools to bleed (Unless you cut the tabs on the strut bodies that hold the brake lines)
Torque wrench (It's very very easy to get the torque on the strut tops wrong. It's much lighter than you think.)
PB Blaster (spray everything you might have to turn before starting paying particular attention to the sway bar end-links)
Have you inspected your swaybar end-links yet? Are the boots in good shape? If not, you will need new end links. I believe the allen wrench you need to get those cursed nuts off is 5mm but it's been a while so I might be wrong. I've done suspension swaps on 3 MR2s so far and I've had to cut about 4 of 12 swaybar end links loose with a die grinder.

That's all I can think of right now. Hope that makes sense, I just woke up a few minutes ago

MrRed2 · 12-11-2007, 05:25 PM

^^^ Whats a PB blaster?

Gairloch · 12-11-2007, 05:31 PM

It's my preferred brand of penetrating oil.

Quote:

Originally Posted by wikipedia.org

Penetrating oil or penetrating fluid is very low viscosity oil. It can be used to free rusted mechanical parts (such as nuts and bolts) so that they can be removed, because it can penetrate into the narrow space between the threads of two parts. It can also be used as general purpose lubricant, or to clean or prevent corrosion. Use as a general-purpose lubricant is not advisable because penetrating oil is relatively volatile - much of the penetrating oil will evaporate in a short amount of time, leaving little residual lubricant.

Other uses include removing chewing gum, on metal stringed musical instruments, moisture displacement on electrical ignition systems, many gardening purposes, D.I.Y use.

WD-40, Liquid Wrench, Unilease, GT85, Kroil and CRC 5-56 are well-known brands of penetrating oil.

MrRed2 · 12-13-2007, 03:00 PM

alright that makes sense. Now all I have to do is throw down the cash for new struts and springs.

Gairloch · 12-13-2007, 06:28 PM

I would suggest that you inspect your suspension before you start buying parts so you know all of what you need to buy. For instance, do you need new bushings? Are the strut tops in good condition? Do the end links need replacing?

Not much sucks worse than to get into a suspension swap and discover halfway that you're missing a part that will hold up the project until it comes in.

12-01-2007, 10:49 AM	#1 (permalink)
MrRed2 No Skills Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 37 Thanks: 6 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Suspension replacement requirements If I buy new struts, bushings, springs and a spring compressor, what else will I need to replace the suspension myself?

12-09-2007, 02:02 PM	#4 (permalink)
Gairloch Dreaming of apexes Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Minneapolis, MN Posts: 5,313 Thanks: 139 Thanked 296 Times in 264 Posts Blog Entries: 4 My Google Map iTrader Rating: (7/100% )	Depending on whether the gland nuts in your strut bodies are rusted or not you might need a hefty bench vice with a pry bar that can fit through the camber bolt holes in the strut bodies. Those things'll fight ya like a son of a bitch. Hand tools of course. Floor jack Jack stands Brake fluid & tools to bleed (Unless you cut the tabs on the strut bodies that hold the brake lines) Torque wrench (It's very very easy to get the torque on the strut tops wrong. It's much lighter than you think.) PB Blaster (spray everything you might have to turn before starting paying particular attention to the sway bar end-links) Have you inspected your swaybar end-links yet? Are the boots in good shape? If not, you will need new end links. I believe the allen wrench you need to get those cursed nuts off is 5mm but it's been a while so I might be wrong. I've done suspension swaps on 3 MR2s so far and I've had to cut about 4 of 12 swaybar end links loose with a die grinder. That's all I can think of right now. Hope that makes sense, I just woke up a few minutes ago

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12-09-2007, 05:26 AM	#2 (permalink)
judaspriest517 No Skills Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 38 Thanks: 1 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post My Google Map iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	a way to remove and insert new bushings. people use two- or three- jaw pullers to remove them. if you have a torch then that works well too. to insert them: if you have a hydraulic press then that is awesome and will get the job done, if not a puller will do the job as well. oh and some grease.

12-09-2007, 08:31 AM	#3 (permalink)
Bak@EMSPowered Banned Seller Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 5,925 Thanks: 30 Thanked 193 Times in 165 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (49/93% )	some people use a torch as well.

12-11-2007, 05:25 PM	#5 (permalink)
MrRed2 No Skills Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 37 Thanks: 6 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	^^^ Whats a PB blaster?

12-13-2007, 03:00 PM	#7 (permalink)
MrRed2 No Skills Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 37 Thanks: 6 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	alright that makes sense. Now all I have to do is throw down the cash for new struts and springs.

12-13-2007, 06:28 PM	#8 (permalink)
Gairloch Dreaming of apexes Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Minneapolis, MN Posts: 5,313 Thanks: 139 Thanked 296 Times in 264 Posts Blog Entries: 4 My Google Map iTrader Rating: (7/100% )	I would suggest that you inspect your suspension before you start buying parts so you know all of what you need to buy. For instance, do you need new bushings? Are the strut tops in good condition? Do the end links need replacing? Not much sucks worse than to get into a suspension swap and discover halfway that you're missing a part that will hold up the project until it comes in.