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MK1 Braking, Suspension, and Wheels Information on Braking, Suspension, and Wheels for the MK1 AW11 MR2. Be sure to check out http://www.wheelspecs.com for free information, specifications, and weights on stock, oem, aftermarket, custom, and racing wheels.

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Old 11-04-2009, 01:36 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Stop light switch - 1988 Mk1 SC

Bummer that this is my first post, but I want to get this thing on the road. I bought the car yesterday, and realized after the purchase it had no brake lights. I have no reason to believe the seller messed with it, and it was inspected in August, so I have to assume they were working then. The running lights come on with the headlights, so the bulbs should be ok.

Assuming the fuse is working (haven't put a mm on it, but visually it was ok), I would next try the Stop Light Switch, which is shown to be on the top of the brake pedal mechanism.

The question: How the heck do you get to it? I'm not exactly a small guy with small arms, so feeling my way up the pedal arm didn't get me very far. Any suggestions?

Thanks!
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Old 11-04-2009, 03:38 PM   #2 (permalink)
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running lights and brake lights are different -- the bulbs are the same but they actually have differerent contacts and filaments inside. It's possible that the filaments are bad for the brake lights but not the running lights. Bulbs are cheap and easy, try them (and have peace of mind that they are good).

only way to get to the brake light switch would be to lie on your back facing up or remove the panel (and the air ducting) at the drivers knees.
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Old 11-04-2009, 04:03 PM   #3 (permalink)
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i doubt all three bulbs burned out. i think you might be right on track with the brake light switch.GL
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Old 11-06-2009, 01:18 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muffinman View Post
i doubt all three bulbs burned out. i think you might be right on track with the brake light switch.GL
+1

i am no expert but the chances of all 3 burning out at the same time are very slim. none the less bulbs aren't expensive and if you didn't need to replace them, you can save them till you do!
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Old 11-06-2009, 10:08 AM   #5 (permalink)
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OK, so I have confirmed it is the switch. I scooted the seat back, and stuck my arm up there and found the wire - which was disconnected from one side of the switch. I had my wife come help me (God bless her) and when she reached up there, she felt a *pop* and out came the wire completely - with both connectors broken off. Fun.

I took a jumper wire to the ends and sure enough - brake lights lit up like a champ.

So, I need to replace the switch. I called the dealership and they wanted $71 for the thing. Yikes!!! Is there any better place to order this? I've done a Google search and found several for 85-87 models for around $20-25. eBay lists several for the 88 year model, but all are listed for models without cruise control. Is there really that much difference? I'm open to suggestions.

Also, assuming I can find the darn thing, how does one install this switch? Does it involve removing the dash? I'm thinking I'd be better off letting my mechanic figure it out unless there's some easy way to do it that I'm not seeing.

Thanks in advance for the help.
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Old 11-11-2009, 03:30 PM   #6 (permalink)
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can you get a photo of it? My 86 parts car I believe was not a cruise car....

usually people don't notice if brake lights go out.... you tend to find out when someone tells you or when you get pulled over.... it's quite possible for all of your brake lights to be burned out and have taken quite a while to happen.
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Old 11-11-2009, 03:37 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I could barely get my arm up there, much less a camera. I did find an exact match on AutoZone.com | | Stoplight Switch | STOPLIGHT SWITCH for my model (and only $17, $24 shipped), so I put the order in today. I'm not ready to start pulling apart my dash, so I'll probably let my mechanic take care of it.

toyotaspeed90 - if you have a parts car - do you have a headlight switch knob and/or a factory shift knob you're willing to part with?
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Old 11-11-2009, 04:28 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toyotaspeed90 View Post
it's quite possible for all of your brake lights to be burned out and have taken quite a while to happen.


i agree it is possible but highly unlikely.
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Old 11-11-2009, 05:17 PM   #9 (permalink)
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you mean the factory shiftknob that looks like a (ahem)

probably....

I should have a headlight switch.
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Old 11-12-2009, 04:38 PM   #10 (permalink)
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PM sent. Thanks!
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Old 02-06-2010, 07:45 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I am having a similar problem but I think the switch is working.
With the brake fuse out, I get a 12 volt read across the fuse terminals when the brake pedal is depressed. I think if the brake light switch was bad that I would not have a reading when the pedal is depressed. Is there a relay or something that could be interfering with the circuit. I have tested the wiring at the rear of the car and the lights all come on with a jumper. Thanks
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Old 02-12-2010, 03:56 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Hi Jason, was gonna call you goofie but...

If toyotaspeed doesn't have those knobs drop me a PM, I do.

BTW I see you have experienced the HUGE discrepancy between OEM Toyota prices and other suppliers......ah....uhmmm...
and
Since this Website is sponsored by a Toyota Dealer I won't take this too far.. but $17 vs $71 speaks for itself !!

Those seats come out w 4 ea #14mm bolts which you might consider next time a "under the dash dive" is in order.

Since your new watch that coolant level, this car blows headgaskets in a heartbeat.

Welcome to the wanna be a Ferrari club!!

Tim
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Old 02-12-2010, 04:42 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Brake Wiring ID info

Whew thats a long avatar...

Believe your on the right track with the ASSumptions thusfar.

The red with white stripe wire that goes into the brake light switch from the 15Amp fuse turns into a Green w white stripe wire when it leaves the switch if that helps you with the trace.

There is an ungodly Junction Box #3 above the pedal (which you DON'T want to mess with) from there the wire goes to Junction Box #4 (pass kick)then to connector L1 behind the drivers seat, then all the to the rear light assemblies.

By the way the ground wires associated with this are: F for the brakes & interior 3rd brake light, and E for the rear spoiler lamp.

E=ground on fuel rail F=ground at interior license plate wall

Tim
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(Boy is it nice here!)

I hope this helps you isolate the area that's failing.

Attached is the BGB Drwg from the Electrical Service Manual




Quote:
Originally Posted by assoctc3racer View Post
I am having a similar problem but I think the switch is working.
With the brake fuse out, I get a 12 volt read across the fuse terminals when the brake pedal is depressed. I think if the brake light switch was bad that I would not have a reading when the pedal is depressed. Is there a relay or something that could be interfering with the circuit. I have tested the wiring at the rear of the car and the lights all come on with a jumper. Thanks
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