20V MK1 Engine Swap 20v installation not running properly, disapointed

honeyborne · 05-07-2007, 02:35 PM

hello, I've just installed a silvertop into my mr2 mk1. I bought it from another mr2 owner who said it had been in a mk1 however i have not seen this engine run before i bought it so i can only hope everything is working as it should be. I installed everything mechanical and plugged in all the wiring loom to the nessessary sensors, then i took the car to a auto electrician and explained that i need to somehow hook the mr2 body harness to the 20v engine harness. He got the car running for me, however it doesn't run properly, it idles good at about 750 rpm but when you increase the revs it gets a bit rougher, also if you rev it fast then you can hear little pops or back fires in the exhaust sytem. i may be wrong but i thought it was over fueling or was out on the timing. Also if you floor the accelerater it sounds like the vvt does not work and it seems like its red lining at only 5000 or so revs. I'm really not sure what to try .... my latest guess is that some of the ecu wires may be wrong and its giving out the wrong signals. i hope some one can offer advice.... I'm not sure how relevant it is but i'm running it without the lamda sensor in the exhaust.

please help
thanks
matt

Mista 2 · 05-08-2007, 12:05 AM

one common problem with the vvt is the little chip burns out, i thought it was mostly with the black tops but you might want to look into it. aparantly you should be able to see the hole in it if that is the problem

mr220v · 05-08-2007, 01:16 AM

Doesn't sound like it has anything to do with vvt working or not working. I have yet to see a 20v ecu with a blown vvt resistor.

First thing, does you check engine light work? Is it coming on?

If so, then try checking for error codes.

I'm thinking something with your afm, or possibly tps. If your cel is coming on, then most likely something to do with your afm. Kinda sounds like youre in limpmode right now.

honeyborne · 05-08-2007, 03:16 PM

thanks for info. i have found two ways to check the error codes and both times there is no codes to read. it just flashes constantly which it says is no malfuction. my auto electrician said something about one of the pins from the afm was supposed to give out a negative but it wasn't so he has wired it to the body for now. he said before he wired it to earth it wouldn't idle at all. he said i should probably get a new afm also. i think thats the first thing for me now, i'm in the uk, from what car can i get a afm to fit my 20v. will an afm from a mk11 mr2 work, i've heard one from a camry will work but there are no camry's here. what engine did they have? if anyone has one to sell and will post quickly to me i could pay with paypal.....
hope someone can help

mr220v · 05-08-2007, 04:06 PM

Two of the negative wires are supposed to go to sensor ground (which is pin e2 #9 on the 16pin connector). These are for the afm and the temp sensor.

The one you're probably talking about is for the afm's fuelpump switch. Its either pin1 or 2. Grounding this to the chasis is fine.

If you arent' getting any codes, your wiring is probably ok.

What type of afm are you trying to use right now?

The Camry 4cylinder uses a 3sfe. Problem is, many 3sfe cars ran map sensors.

honeyborne · 05-08-2007, 04:22 PM

i believe its correct for the 20v st, it came to me as a complete transplant, however it was in a bit of a mess, especially the loom... we have wired the fuel pump to be on constantly when the ignition is on. i realise thats not safe if you have an accident but i just want to get it running first then i will deal with that sort of thing. i'm not 100% sure how he linked up all the wiring as he didn't have much info to go on. i printed out some stuff from the net but some of it contradicted itself. i can only assume the diagnostics are working correctly, the ecu light comes on the dash when ignition is on and then goes out when car is started. if you short the terminals it flashes constantly but doesn't give any codes..

i hope you can make some sense of all that.
thanks in advance for your time
matt

honeyborne · 05-12-2007, 05:42 PM

ok now i'm puzzled. i bought a new afm and its exactly the same. your right about the neg feed for the fuel pump, it goes to the open circuit relay and thats where i've cut into it and given it a neg feed from the chassis. as if i pull it off the chassis then put the ignition in the on position i can hear nothing but when i touch it to the body you can hear the fuel pump kick in. as for the other neg feed, to be honest unless someone was able to talk me through it, its probably beyond me.

is there anyway i can go through the ecu pins or the sensors and check that they are all giving out what they should? i've searched for some info on the ecu pins but i have only found a couple of different sources and they contradict each other. does anyone have the correct pin details for a ae101 silvertop ecu. and maybe the correct wire colours so i can check them against the description.

i'm thinking its got to be something electrical or sensor related but i really don't know.

if anyone has any ideas of what i could try next i would be very appreciative.

thanks in advance, hope you can help.

mr220v · 05-14-2007, 09:41 AM

There are two versions of the 20v silvertop ecu. There is a manual transmission version (MT), and an automatic transmission version (AT). Both of these have different pinouts.

club4ag has pinouts for both of these. If you or your electrician are unsure of which set of pinouts was needed, I would check this first.

Aside from that, TPS's quite commonly go bad.

sandsz · 05-27-2007, 01:00 AM

Yah I had TPS units go bad on my a couple time on my previous MR2s. Its common with surges on idle.

honeyborne · 06-06-2007, 06:51 PM

ok i've checked nearly all the pin outs to the ecu. i have had to change a few but now they are nearly all correct with what the phil bradshaw ae101 wiring connections states. i'm down to wiring the ignition timing signal pin and i'm not 100% sure which wire should go in this pin. can anyone describe how i should correctly wire up the coil and ignitor. from memory the coil has only 2 wires and the ignitor has 5. i'm now thinking it could be the ignition timing signal that is not allowing the car to run correctly. this may be why it idles ok but gets rough and back fires a bit when you increase or decrease revs. and why it won't rev past 5000 revs.
does this sound like i'm on to something or am i barking up the wrong tree?
If anyone has a throttle position sensor i could buy and they would post to me in england i would be very greatful. i would like to eliminate this first.

hope someone can make sense of all that.

05-07-2007, 02:35 PM	#1 (permalink)
honeyborne No Skills Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 9 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	20v installation not running properly, disapointed hello, I've just installed a silvertop into my mr2 mk1. I bought it from another mr2 owner who said it had been in a mk1 however i have not seen this engine run before i bought it so i can only hope everything is working as it should be. I installed everything mechanical and plugged in all the wiring loom to the nessessary sensors, then i took the car to a auto electrician and explained that i need to somehow hook the mr2 body harness to the 20v engine harness. He got the car running for me, however it doesn't run properly, it idles good at about 750 rpm but when you increase the revs it gets a bit rougher, also if you rev it fast then you can hear little pops or back fires in the exhaust sytem. i may be wrong but i thought it was over fueling or was out on the timing. Also if you floor the accelerater it sounds like the vvt does not work and it seems like its red lining at only 5000 or so revs. I'm really not sure what to try .... my latest guess is that some of the ecu wires may be wrong and its giving out the wrong signals. i hope some one can offer advice.... I'm not sure how relevant it is but i'm running it without the lamda sensor in the exhaust. please help thanks matt

05-27-2007, 01:00 AM	#9 (permalink)
sandsz No Skills Join Date: May 2007 Location: Stone Mountain Posts: 23 Thanks: 2 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	TPS Yah I had TPS units go bad on my a couple time on my previous MR2s. Its common with surges on idle.

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05-08-2007, 12:05 AM	#2 (permalink)
Mista 2 Cage Fighter Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Adelaide, Australia Posts: 463 Thanks: 16 Thanked 21 Times in 21 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	one common problem with the vvt is the little chip burns out, i thought it was mostly with the black tops but you might want to look into it. aparantly you should be able to see the hole in it if that is the problem

05-08-2007, 01:16 AM	#3 (permalink)
mr220v Beams Owners Group Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 2,529 Thanks: 13 Thanked 176 Times in 147 Posts iTrader Rating: (11/100% )	Doesn't sound like it has anything to do with vvt working or not working. I have yet to see a 20v ecu with a blown vvt resistor. First thing, does you check engine light work? Is it coming on? If so, then try checking for error codes. I'm thinking something with your afm, or possibly tps. If your cel is coming on, then most likely something to do with your afm. Kinda sounds like youre in limpmode right now.

05-08-2007, 03:16 PM	#4 (permalink)
honeyborne No Skills Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 9 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	thanks for info. i have found two ways to check the error codes and both times there is no codes to read. it just flashes constantly which it says is no malfuction. my auto electrician said something about one of the pins from the afm was supposed to give out a negative but it wasn't so he has wired it to the body for now. he said before he wired it to earth it wouldn't idle at all. he said i should probably get a new afm also. i think thats the first thing for me now, i'm in the uk, from what car can i get a afm to fit my 20v. will an afm from a mk11 mr2 work, i've heard one from a camry will work but there are no camry's here. what engine did they have? if anyone has one to sell and will post quickly to me i could pay with paypal..... hope someone can help

05-08-2007, 04:06 PM	#5 (permalink)
mr220v Beams Owners Group Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 2,529 Thanks: 13 Thanked 176 Times in 147 Posts iTrader Rating: (11/100% )	Two of the negative wires are supposed to go to sensor ground (which is pin e2 #9 on the 16pin connector). These are for the afm and the temp sensor. The one you're probably talking about is for the afm's fuelpump switch. Its either pin1 or 2. Grounding this to the chasis is fine. If you arent' getting any codes, your wiring is probably ok. What type of afm are you trying to use right now? The Camry 4cylinder uses a 3sfe. Problem is, many 3sfe cars ran map sensors.

05-08-2007, 04:22 PM	#6 (permalink)
honeyborne No Skills Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 9 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	i believe its correct for the 20v st, it came to me as a complete transplant, however it was in a bit of a mess, especially the loom... we have wired the fuel pump to be on constantly when the ignition is on. i realise thats not safe if you have an accident but i just want to get it running first then i will deal with that sort of thing. i'm not 100% sure how he linked up all the wiring as he didn't have much info to go on. i printed out some stuff from the net but some of it contradicted itself. i can only assume the diagnostics are working correctly, the ecu light comes on the dash when ignition is on and then goes out when car is started. if you short the terminals it flashes constantly but doesn't give any codes.. i hope you can make some sense of all that. thanks in advance for your time matt

05-12-2007, 05:42 PM	#7 (permalink)
honeyborne No Skills Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 9 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	ok now i'm puzzled. i bought a new afm and its exactly the same. your right about the neg feed for the fuel pump, it goes to the open circuit relay and thats where i've cut into it and given it a neg feed from the chassis. as if i pull it off the chassis then put the ignition in the on position i can hear nothing but when i touch it to the body you can hear the fuel pump kick in. as for the other neg feed, to be honest unless someone was able to talk me through it, its probably beyond me. is there anyway i can go through the ecu pins or the sensors and check that they are all giving out what they should? i've searched for some info on the ecu pins but i have only found a couple of different sources and they contradict each other. does anyone have the correct pin details for a ae101 silvertop ecu. and maybe the correct wire colours so i can check them against the description. i'm thinking its got to be something electrical or sensor related but i really don't know. if anyone has any ideas of what i could try next i would be very appreciative. thanks in advance, hope you can help.

05-14-2007, 09:41 AM	#8 (permalink)
mr220v Beams Owners Group Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 2,529 Thanks: 13 Thanked 176 Times in 147 Posts iTrader Rating: (11/100% )	There are two versions of the 20v silvertop ecu. There is a manual transmission version (MT), and an automatic transmission version (AT). Both of these have different pinouts. club4ag has pinouts for both of these. If you or your electrician are unsure of which set of pinouts was needed, I would check this first. Aside from that, TPS's quite commonly go bad.

06-06-2007, 06:51 PM	#10 (permalink)
honeyborne No Skills Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 9 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	ok i've checked nearly all the pin outs to the ecu. i have had to change a few but now they are nearly all correct with what the phil bradshaw ae101 wiring connections states. i'm down to wiring the ignition timing signal pin and i'm not 100% sure which wire should go in this pin. can anyone describe how i should correctly wire up the coil and ignitor. from memory the coil has only 2 wires and the ignitor has 5. i'm now thinking it could be the ignition timing signal that is not allowing the car to run correctly. this may be why it idles ok but gets rough and back fires a bit when you increase or decrease revs. and why it won't rev past 5000 revs. does this sound like i'm on to something or am i barking up the wrong tree? If anyone has a throttle position sensor i could buy and they would post to me in england i would be very greatful. i would like to eliminate this first. hope someone can make sense of all that.