20V: The Tranny Modification

[sandsz]

Hey guys, I read that popular site for the 20V swap and I think I have a pretty easy way for doing that Tranny mod for the Silvertop C56 to move the linkage over.

The site is http://www.padandwheels.com/mr2/blac...day13/c56.html

But the actual modification might be a bit scary for some people so I was able to make a step by step format on how to perfectly make the oil seal hole. I hope this gets more people to use the Silvertop C56 Tranny since using the tired old C50/52 will have a higher failure rate. Of course you will have to move over your old speedo gear assymb. and, if you use the old connector, the Back-Up light sensor. Just fyi!

These are the tools needed. Just a normal drill will work but you'll need 1/2 shank ability.

A) 1" Circle saw with drill bit
B) 1" Circle Grinding wheel (circle wheel made of stone)
C) 9/16 Drill bit with 3/8 guide bit
D) Needle nose pliers and a 1/2" shank drill

Note: The rag can be shoved under the lip of the shifter linkage hole INSIDE with a flat head, that way no shavings can make it to the linkage. When removing the rag, use the needle nose pliers to grab the very end and roll it up towards the linkage hole. No shavings !

1) Take the linkage out. Stuff some rags in there.
2) Use the 9/16" Drill bit and start drilling from the linkage hole. The reason this works is because there is a 9/16" lip on the inside of the transmission that Guides the bit PERFECTLY center. Drill until you just see the end of the bit poke out the back of the transmission. This will be your Pilot hole. Clean the shavings up. (Note: I had to leave the rags out on this one but was careful to keep everything clean)
3) Move to the back of the tranny and Use the hole saw with 3/8" Guide bit and put it in the pilot hole. Start drilling until you get the hole saw exactly 1/2" into the tranny. Use W/D-40 every once in a while to keep things cool. Clean up the shavings.
4) Use the 9/16" Drill bit again, but from the back of the tranny and drill out the pilot hole to 9/16". Now, use the drill bit in a circle motion to "bore" out the back hole to almost 1". Again use WD-40 to keep things cool. When you are done, the hole should ALMOST be as big as the ring the hole saw made.
5) Use some needle-nose pliers and break out the round edge remaining on the case that that 9/16" drill bit could not bore out. It should break off effortlessly.
6) Use the 1" Grinding bit to make everything nice and smooth, then little by little bore the hole out until the oil seal can be pressed in. Test by using a block of wood and try to hammer the seal in. If the seal does NOT go in with a moderate force, then keep grinding. DO NOT BANG the seal in, it will actually warp the seal and the little rubber ring will break off.
7) when the seal fits, bang it back out and clean everything up very good with break cleaner, take the rags out carefully and clean up all the shavings, then reinstall the seal.

This all should take about 10-15 minutes. Just make sure to keep center and clean up the shavings!

Don't worry if the seal is not exactly perfectly center, you have a little tolerance there. Just make sure its very tight, because its a pressed seal it can't be lose.

Hope this helps! Maybe I should of taken photos huh?

[whore of babylon]

Anyone got a 6sp manual box working in a ADub? I like that idea.