Mark1-no start and no check engine light?

mr2tim · 09-08-2008, 08:20 PM

In need of some advice....

Fried my 4 wire o2 sensor wire on the exhaust manifold..and fixed it.

Tried to start the car and didn't have a "check engine" light, tach appears dead, & no measurable electric at coil?

I have replaced the ecu, coil and igniter, all the relays in the engine compartment, sc relay, cuicuit breaker, the ignition switch was checked ok.

The power checked good going into the wire at coil/ignitor connector but not at the coil? (replacing coil didn't matter)

Since I don't have the check engine light I can't access the diagnosis system?

Any ideas out there?

Jackstand Queen · 09-12-2008, 10:05 AM

Perhaps the Circuit Opening Relay thats mounted to the side of the ECU?

Your next step is going to be the wiring harness check. Its in the BGB. Disco Battery, remove ECU, reconnect battery and then begin the most grueling, hellish, tedious thing you have ever done, or can think of doing.

I tried doing it, but my brain blew up, and sprayed peanut butter all over the place.

Adrians89MR2SC · 09-12-2008, 09:34 PM

sounds like your in a similar boat to me ..

mine idles like junk at 400 rpm if you play with the gas pedal .. but wont start without it

only thing I can suggest is doing all the ohm / voltage checks specified in the BGB and hope that something comes up

(and I mean you REALLY should start praying

.. all my stuff checks out good, yet it refuses to run)

Jackstand Queen · 09-16-2008, 02:11 AM

I recently went through a hellish period of about a year of the car not running. Finally I took it to a couple of garages and got it back running after 3 months away from home.

Adrian:

Your rig sounds like it has a vacuum leak maybe. The vacuum lines in the area above your SC could be plumbed wrong. Mine were configured for the ABV cutoff Mod. When I plumbed it back to stock mode, the engine started running good. Although I still can only get 10 PSI boost.

Another critical item is the electric valve gadget mounted to the left of your Throttle position sensor (TPS). It needs to be adjusted and screw down with a set screw. Also your TPS could be defective or need calibrating.

So many things to go wrong with the SC. Seems much more problematic than the N.A. for certain.

Adrians89MR2SC · 09-16-2008, 07:45 PM

if only it were that easy

1) theres no vacuum leaks, put hand over afm inlet and it pulls really hard and wont start / fire when it is covered

2)tps is good / calibrated correctly .. got two good ones and have tried both (one came with car, other is brand new and both ohm out the same)

3) the ISC (thing next to tps) is clean and works, and ive tried the idle screw both all the way in and all the way out .. theres no difference

4)tried a different / good ecu, tps, afm, fuel regulator, etc

5)blocked off egr (could cause my problem) but the egr valve works as it should

so im lost right now, except last time I worked on it .. a code 21 and 51 came up .. so something is up with my oxygen sensor

I'm currently on vacation untill next week, so ill do some more work on it next week and see if I can get it running ..

I changed the gas / filter last week and its trying to run ALOT better .. it had some stale gas in it

mr2tim · 09-22-2008, 07:35 PM

I have no idea whatz going on so far but the car has started back up. lights, and all. I has a hellish missfire to the engine with #3 and 4 plugs look wet and plugs #1 and 2 are sooty back.

I have made many checks including a static timing check, the cams are both in the right position belt looks new still, crank pulley is right on the mark.

I have been advised to run a compression check next and that will happen in a few days when a tester becomes available.

The distributor checks ok (it separates cyl's 1&2 and 3&4)as well as the split system controlling the injectors.

Big mystery?

Adrians89MR2SC · 09-22-2008, 07:59 PM

sounds exactly what is happening with mine .. there has to be something simple that is causing this .. but what

Jackstand Queen · 09-24-2008, 12:52 PM

MR2 Tim, do you have a spare ECU ? With the o2 sensor wiring being fried, any relay involved and the ECU could have been damaged.

I once had an ECU that would only operate two fuel injectors (1/2 bank) and the other two just did nothing.

mr2tim · 09-24-2008, 12:59 PM

Thanks for all the imput ya'll, it was the wiring going to #3 injector which was a hidden repair by the last owner. The electrical tape over his soldering job had slipped or worn thru and the two injector leads touched and caused the mis fire.

The only way I found it was to have the car running (just barely) and start yanking and pulling on all parts of the engine wire harness. When the idle changed pitch I just concentrated on that section till I isolated the section of wire involved.

Yea, stupid but true.

09-08-2008, 08:20 PM	#1 (permalink)
mr2tim SUPERcharZed ToyZ RacZer Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: South Florida Posts: 1,789 Thanks: 8 Thanked 118 Times in 111 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (6/100% )	Mark1-no start and no check engine light? In need of some advice.... Fried my 4 wire o2 sensor wire on the exhaust manifold..and fixed it. Tried to start the car and didn't have a "check engine" light, tach appears dead, & no measurable electric at coil? I have replaced the ecu, coil and igniter, all the relays in the engine compartment, sc relay, cuicuit breaker, the ignition switch was checked ok. The power checked good going into the wire at coil/ignitor connector but not at the coil? (replacing coil didn't matter) Since I don't have the check engine light I can't access the diagnosis system? Any ideas out there?

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09-12-2008, 10:05 AM	#2 (permalink)
Jackstand Queen Cage Fighter Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 840 Thanks: 75 Thanked 64 Times in 60 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	Perhaps the Circuit Opening Relay thats mounted to the side of the ECU? Your next step is going to be the wiring harness check. Its in the BGB. Disco Battery, remove ECU, reconnect battery and then begin the most grueling, hellish, tedious thing you have ever done, or can think of doing. I tried doing it, but my brain blew up, and sprayed peanut butter all over the place.

09-12-2008, 09:34 PM	#3 (permalink)
Adrians89MR2SC Build,Drive,Sell,Repeat Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: McDonough, Ga Posts: 895 Thanks: 9 Thanked 25 Times in 24 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	sounds like your in a similar boat to me .. mine idles like junk at 400 rpm if you play with the gas pedal .. but wont start without it only thing I can suggest is doing all the ohm / voltage checks specified in the BGB and hope that something comes up (and I mean you REALLY should start praying .. all my stuff checks out good, yet it refuses to run)

09-16-2008, 02:11 AM	#4 (permalink)
Jackstand Queen Cage Fighter Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 840 Thanks: 75 Thanked 64 Times in 60 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	I recently went through a hellish period of about a year of the car not running. Finally I took it to a couple of garages and got it back running after 3 months away from home. Adrian: Your rig sounds like it has a vacuum leak maybe. The vacuum lines in the area above your SC could be plumbed wrong. Mine were configured for the ABV cutoff Mod. When I plumbed it back to stock mode, the engine started running good. Although I still can only get 10 PSI boost. Another critical item is the electric valve gadget mounted to the left of your Throttle position sensor (TPS). It needs to be adjusted and screw down with a set screw. Also your TPS could be defective or need calibrating. So many things to go wrong with the SC. Seems much more problematic than the N.A. for certain.

09-16-2008, 07:45 PM	#5 (permalink)
Adrians89MR2SC Build,Drive,Sell,Repeat Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: McDonough, Ga Posts: 895 Thanks: 9 Thanked 25 Times in 24 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	if only it were that easy 1) theres no vacuum leaks, put hand over afm inlet and it pulls really hard and wont start / fire when it is covered 2)tps is good / calibrated correctly .. got two good ones and have tried both (one came with car, other is brand new and both ohm out the same) 3) the ISC (thing next to tps) is clean and works, and ive tried the idle screw both all the way in and all the way out .. theres no difference 4)tried a different / good ecu, tps, afm, fuel regulator, etc 5)blocked off egr (could cause my problem) but the egr valve works as it should so im lost right now, except last time I worked on it .. a code 21 and 51 came up .. so something is up with my oxygen sensor I'm currently on vacation untill next week, so ill do some more work on it next week and see if I can get it running .. I changed the gas / filter last week and its trying to run ALOT better .. it had some stale gas in it

09-22-2008, 07:35 PM	#6 (permalink)
mr2tim SUPERcharZed ToyZ RacZer Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: South Florida Posts: 1,789 Thanks: 8 Thanked 118 Times in 111 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (6/100% )	I have no idea whatz going on so far but the car has started back up. lights, and all. I has a hellish missfire to the engine with #3 and 4 plugs look wet and plugs #1 and 2 are sooty back. I have made many checks including a static timing check, the cams are both in the right position belt looks new still, crank pulley is right on the mark. I have been advised to run a compression check next and that will happen in a few days when a tester becomes available. The distributor checks ok (it separates cyl's 1&2 and 3&4)as well as the split system controlling the injectors. Big mystery?

09-22-2008, 07:59 PM	#7 (permalink)
Adrians89MR2SC Build,Drive,Sell,Repeat Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: McDonough, Ga Posts: 895 Thanks: 9 Thanked 25 Times in 24 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	sounds exactly what is happening with mine .. there has to be something simple that is causing this .. but what

09-24-2008, 12:52 PM	#8 (permalink)
Jackstand Queen Cage Fighter Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 840 Thanks: 75 Thanked 64 Times in 60 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	MR2 Tim, do you have a spare ECU ? With the o2 sensor wiring being fried, any relay involved and the ECU could have been damaged. I once had an ECU that would only operate two fuel injectors (1/2 bank) and the other two just did nothing.

09-24-2008, 12:59 PM	#9 (permalink)
mr2tim SUPERcharZed ToyZ RacZer Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: South Florida Posts: 1,789 Thanks: 8 Thanked 118 Times in 111 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (6/100% )	Thanks for all the imput ya'll, it was the wiring going to #3 injector which was a hidden repair by the last owner. The electrical tape over his soldering job had slipped or worn thru and the two injector leads touched and caused the mis fire. The only way I found it was to have the car running (just barely) and start yanking and pulling on all parts of the engine wire harness. When the idle changed pitch I just concentrated on that section till I isolated the section of wire involved. Yea, stupid but true.