Fusible link alternate?

mr2tim · 10-31-2008, 01:29 PM

My 1989 Mark 1 Service Manual indicates my electrical system needs a 1.25 fusible link on the positive battery cable.(See attached diagram)

Since I have 2 cars Toyota expects me to buy these for $120? for this silly electrical protection device?, to a retired US Army veteran on a limited income this is just another totally un-acceptable Toyota parts situation.

Are there any Rocket Scientists out there can could translate this "1.25 fusible link" into American Speak soas a normal "Joe the Mechanic" can go to the local parts store to purchase a part?

Thanks from South Florida!!

fvillota · 10-31-2008, 02:31 PM

is it from one of the cables coming from the batterie? and if its what im thinking dont they have these at the auto parts store. umm these are some pictures of 2 thats are diffrent. but im sure u can get it at the auto parts
sorry if im wrong.. but hope it helps.

fvillota · 10-31-2008, 02:33 PM

this is what i normally use , when i talk about a fusible link. u put the fuse in the middle and cover it with the top and put it between the mail wire u want to protect.

como · 01-03-2009, 04:34 PM

In OLD cars (89 probably counts) a "Fusable link" was actually a piece of wire rated to burn out and stop transferring power after a ceartain draw- it's the best solution they could come up with for a fuse for the entire electrical system.

That's all I know about them, though. Not even *quite* sure what replaced them.

te51levin · 01-04-2009, 01:37 PM

Tim, shoot me an email reminder and I will look into this after the weekend. Fusible links don't typically cost more than a couple of dollars, even from Toyota. And the fusible link wire fvillota posted is a perfectly acceptable solution if the OEM part is really priced that badly. I suspect it is not, and that your local parts guy probably looked up the wrong part.

Ben · 01-04-2009, 01:38 PM

Have you tried Aaron at Lithia Toyota?

te51levin · 01-04-2009, 02:15 PM

Ben, I think you were typing at the same time as I was. Thanks for looking out

mr2tim · 01-05-2009, 04:33 AM

When I asked for the 1.25 fuse for the 89S/C here locally (Ft Lauderdale) it was a lol deal. I talked to 3 dealerships that did not have a clue what I was even talking about. The 4th dealership (A LADY EVEN) called back 3 days later to explain that the 1.25 was a wire diameter and that's all anybody knew.

My deal is that I have 2 S/C daily drivers, so I would need 4 fuses as 2 would be for back-up. (We don't want to be stranded somewhere) I was quoted $30-35 which is $140 and way out of my retiree budget.

I blew one of my IC Regulators (External voltage regulators) because (I suspect) I did not have this on my elect system(s) and really would not have to go thru this again.

I guess I'll run a posting and let the Club know what to expect when these blow and how it affects the car, the wallet and downtime, as it has been a nasty learning experience for me.

Appreciate your assistance bro... Tim (mr2tim)

Quote:

Originally Posted by te51levin

Tim, shoot me an email reminder and I will look into this after the weekend. Fusible links don't typically cost more than a couple of dollars, even from Toyota. And the fusible link wire fvillota posted is a perfectly acceptable solution if the OEM part is really priced that badly. I suspect it is not, and that your local parts guy probably looked up the wrong part.

como · 01-05-2009, 06:10 PM

That's what I thought, Diameter would have a direct impact on the amount of current the line would be able to withstand before burning out. That's all they did, burned out cutting power from the entire vehicle. Not exactly the kind of think I'd keep on hand as a spare, mind you.

I read somewhere that the COLOR of the link determines its amperage rating.
Now if this 1.25 is the diameter of the inner wire, you could just find a wire with the same diameter and use that in its place... but that could prove dangerous. My guess is a junkyard is the place to get that part.
"The smaller wire on the battery positive cable is a fusible link. It should be replaced as age and corrosion can create all manner of problems."

Now if you can dig and figure out approximately at what amperage they burn out, you could just use a fuse there. Or if you can figure out what it's made out of, I'm sure this forum has at least one engineer/mathmeticial guy that could tell you... or does it?

te51levin · 01-06-2009, 02:14 PM

Tim, I have some progress. First, 1.25 is not the amperage rating. It's the size of the fusible link wire...more on that later. The fusible link repair wire is shown in the attached pic as pn 82991-32020. MSRP is $12.18 and your cost through us is $9.52 each. There is currently one in TMS-USA's distribution network. You're on Southeast Toyota or Gulf States, not TMS-USA, so their supply will be different. Now since this is kind of silly money for a dinky wire, and it's something that you can replicate yourself with little effort or expense, let's look into that option.

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techti...nks/index.html - indicates that 1.25mm^2 fusible link wire is rated for 80 amps.

Note that 1.25 mm is not the wire diameter; the cross section is 1.25 square millimeters. Knowing that, we can look here...
AWG to square mm Wire Gauge Conversion ...and determine that 16ga wire is equivalent to 1.31mm^2, so you need 16 gauge fusible link wire to affect a repair. You will be able to get a small roll of that at any decent local auto parts store.

Hope that sorts it out for you...

mr2tim · 01-07-2009, 02:44 PM

The application is for my 88 and 89 Mark1's, I'll need 2 to install and 2 for backup at $30-35 ea OEM quoted locally is a joke for my retiree budget!!LOL!!

Thank for your interest..

Tim

Quote:

Originally Posted by te51levin

Tim, shoot me an email reminder and I will look into this after the weekend. Fusible links don't typically cost more than a couple of dollars, even from Toyota. And the fusible link wire fvillota posted is a perfectly acceptable solution if the OEM part is really priced that badly. I suspect it is not, and that your local parts guy probably looked up the wrong part.

te51levin · 01-07-2009, 02:46 PM

Did you see my last post, right above the one you just posted? You don't need to use the OEM part anyway. You can fix it yourself and make up several spares for a fraction of the cost.

mr2tim · 01-07-2009, 03:59 PM

Looks like something I can create.
The pictures were worth a million, 'cause if I can see somethin' I can make it.

The pictures of the 2+2 were curious, in that they appeared to be on the positive and negative sides both. Hmmm..
Of course, the Toyota's are only placed on the positive side but it set me to thinking.....Why?

Dig this, the alternator I picked up from Advance Auto turned out to be the wrong "Phase"? (looked identical w pigtail etc. in every way)
And possibly the source of the problem.??
("A" and "B" phase alternators are different I'm told, and in a big way?)

My South African (British) Ex-Formula1 rebuilder said the Service Manual's drawing did not match the store bought alternator and subsequently blew 2 ea of the $22 Honda IN 223 voltage regulators we had rewired to replace the impossible to find Toyota OEM External Voltage Regulator (AKA IC Regulator in the rear trunk)

The rebuilder re-wired the "new" alternator to match the drawing in the book, replaced the Honda IN223 with a 1973 Toyota Mechanical Regulator?, I rewired everything and I'm back on the road.

Been a real adventure and I thank all the input and research and help everyone has lent this mystical endeavor.

Ya know, I usually am the one who gives advice, pictures, drawings and ideas. It's cool being able to be on the receiving end of such kind help by others.

Quote:

Originally Posted by te51levin

Did you see my last post, right above the one you just posted? You don't need to use the OEM part anyway. You can fix it yourself and make up several spares for a fraction of the cost.

kewandnout · 07-30-2009, 10:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by te51levin

Tim, I have some progress. First, 1.25 is not the amperage rating. It's the size of the fusible link wire...more on that later. The fusible link repair wire is shown in the attached pic as pn 82991-32020. MSRP is $12.18 and your cost through us is $9.52 each. There is currently one in TMS-USA's distribution network. You're on Southeast Toyota or Gulf States, not TMS-USA, so their supply will be different. Now since this is kind of silly money for a dinky wire, and it's something that you can replicate yourself with little effort or expense, let's look into that option.

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techti...nks/index.html - indicates that 1.25mm^2 fusible link wire is rated for 80 amps.

Note that 1.25 mm is not the wire diameter; the cross section is 1.25 square millimeters. Knowing that, we can look here...
AWG to square mm Wire Gauge Conversion ...and determine that 16ga wire is equivalent to 1.31mm^2, so you need 16 gauge fusible link wire to affect a repair. You will be able to get a small roll of that at any decent local auto parts store.

Hope that sorts it out for you...

You positive is 16 gauge? I am about to purchase one for myself...

te51levin · 07-31-2009, 01:44 AM

I am not positive - but I am confident. I try to give out only accurate and proven information, but since this is free advice on how to modify your car, I can't guarantee that you won't encounter difficulty or burn your car down. You'll have to read what I wrote, see if it makes sense to you, confirm that the math is solid, and use your own judgement.

If you are not comfortable making up your own, I can get the OEM part for you for around $10, as shown in post #10 above.

10-31-2008, 01:29 PM	#1 (permalink)
mr2tim SUPERcharZed ToyZ RacZer Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: South Florida Posts: 1,789 Thanks: 8 Thanked 118 Times in 111 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (6/100% )	Fusible link alternate? My 1989 Mark 1 Service Manual indicates my electrical system needs a 1.25 fusible link on the positive battery cable.(See attached diagram) Since I have 2 cars Toyota expects me to buy these for $120? for this silly electrical protection device?, to a retired US Army veteran on a limited income this is just another totally un-acceptable Toyota parts situation. Are there any Rocket Scientists out there can could translate this "1.25 fusible link" into American Speak soas a normal "Joe the Mechanic" can go to the local parts store to purchase a part? Thanks from South Florida!! Attached Thumbnails

10-31-2008, 02:31 PM	#2 (permalink)
fvillota Did you just press that? Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Miami Posts: 2,539 Thanks: 73 Thanked 52 Times in 52 Posts iTrader Rating: (11/100% )	is it from one of the cables coming from the batterie? and if its what im thinking dont they have these at the auto parts store. umm these are some pictures of 2 thats are diffrent. but im sure u can get it at the auto parts sorry if im wrong.. but hope it helps. Attached Thumbnails

10-31-2008, 02:33 PM	#3 (permalink)
fvillota Did you just press that? Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Miami Posts: 2,539 Thanks: 73 Thanked 52 Times in 52 Posts iTrader Rating: (11/100% )	this is what i normally use , when i talk about a fusible link. u put the fuse in the middle and cover it with the top and put it between the mail wire u want to protect. Attached Thumbnails

01-06-2009, 02:14 PM	#10 (permalink)
te51levin LithiaToyotaParts.com Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Copperhead Road Posts: 3,710 Thanks: 50 Thanked 324 Times in 268 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (193/100% )	Tim, I have some progress. First, 1.25 is not the amperage rating. It's the size of the fusible link wire...more on that later. The fusible link repair wire is shown in the attached pic as pn 82991-32020. MSRP is $12.18 and your cost through us is $9.52 each. There is currently one in TMS-USA's distribution network. You're on Southeast Toyota or Gulf States, not TMS-USA, so their supply will be different. Now since this is kind of silly money for a dinky wire, and it's something that you can replicate yourself with little effort or expense, let's look into that option. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techti...nks/index.html - indicates that 1.25mm^2 fusible link wire is rated for 80 amps. Note that 1.25 mm is not the wire diameter; the cross section is 1.25 square millimeters. Knowing that, we can look here... AWG to square mm Wire Gauge Conversion ...and determine that 16ga wire is equivalent to 1.31mm^2, so you need 16 gauge fusible link wire to affect a repair. You will be able to get a small roll of that at any decent local auto parts store. Hope that sorts it out for you... Attached Thumbnails Last edited by te51levin; 01-06-2009 at 03:56 PM..

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01-03-2009, 04:34 PM	#4 (permalink)
como Road Warrior Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Southern Maine Posts: 652 Thanks: 13 Thanked 10 Times in 9 Posts iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	In OLD cars (89 probably counts) a "Fusable link" was actually a piece of wire rated to burn out and stop transferring power after a ceartain draw- it's the best solution they could come up with for a fuse for the entire electrical system. That's all I know about them, though. Not even quite sure what replaced them.

01-04-2009, 01:37 PM	#5 (permalink)
te51levin LithiaToyotaParts.com Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Copperhead Road Posts: 3,710 Thanks: 50 Thanked 324 Times in 268 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (193/100% )	Tim, shoot me an email reminder and I will look into this after the weekend. Fusible links don't typically cost more than a couple of dollars, even from Toyota. And the fusible link wire fvillota posted is a perfectly acceptable solution if the OEM part is really priced that badly. I suspect it is not, and that your local parts guy probably looked up the wrong part.

01-04-2009, 01:38 PM	#6 (permalink)
Ben Same In The End Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Oceanside, CA / Reno, NV Posts: 4,274 Thanks: 20 Thanked 309 Times in 284 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (16/100% )	Have you tried Aaron at Lithia Toyota?

01-04-2009, 02:15 PM	#7 (permalink)
te51levin LithiaToyotaParts.com Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Copperhead Road Posts: 3,710 Thanks: 50 Thanked 324 Times in 268 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (193/100% )	Ben, I think you were typing at the same time as I was. Thanks for looking out

01-05-2009, 06:10 PM	#9 (permalink)
como Road Warrior Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Southern Maine Posts: 652 Thanks: 13 Thanked 10 Times in 9 Posts iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	That's what I thought, Diameter would have a direct impact on the amount of current the line would be able to withstand before burning out. That's all they did, burned out cutting power from the entire vehicle. Not exactly the kind of think I'd keep on hand as a spare, mind you. I read somewhere that the COLOR of the link determines its amperage rating. Now if this 1.25 is the diameter of the inner wire, you could just find a wire with the same diameter and use that in its place... but that could prove dangerous. My guess is a junkyard is the place to get that part. "The smaller wire on the battery positive cable is a fusible link. It should be replaced as age and corrosion can create all manner of problems." Now if you can dig and figure out approximately at what amperage they burn out, you could just use a fuse there. Or if you can figure out what it's made out of, I'm sure this forum has at least one engineer/mathmeticial guy that could tell you... or does it?

01-07-2009, 02:46 PM	#12 (permalink)
te51levin LithiaToyotaParts.com Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Copperhead Road Posts: 3,710 Thanks: 50 Thanked 324 Times in 268 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (193/100% )	Did you see my last post, right above the one you just posted? You don't need to use the OEM part anyway. You can fix it yourself and make up several spares for a fraction of the cost.

07-31-2009, 01:44 AM	#15 (permalink)
te51levin LithiaToyotaParts.com Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Copperhead Road Posts: 3,710 Thanks: 50 Thanked 324 Times in 268 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (193/100% )	I am not positive - but I am confident. I try to give out only accurate and proven information, but since this is free advice on how to modify your car, I can't guarantee that you won't encounter difficulty or burn your car down. You'll have to read what I wrote, see if it makes sense to you, confirm that the math is solid, and use your own judgement. If you are not comfortable making up your own, I can get the OEM part for you for around $10, as shown in post #10 above.