I feel like a dumbass for asking....

[z33steve]

But, I am a MR2 noob. So, my MK1's 4age is 245k deep and getting tired. I found a place that sells the "J-spec" 4age a few miles from my house. I know this motor was used in several different models for Toyota. My question is, do I need to buy a 4age from a MR2 OR will any 4age work?

Thanks in advance for helping out a noob.

Steve

[MR_mean2]

I heard the 20v will bolt up to the motor mounts, but you'd have to custom fab some coolant lines, extensions, exhaust and do some wiring work.

[328FTW]

As long as it is a FWD model engine and you get the loom, computer etc with it you can pretty much use one from anything. The RWD engines like the ae86 ones have some difficulties associated with them that I don't think you will want to deal with. Corolla, MR2 and the other FWD setups essentially are the same. Are you going to get a gearbox with it or not cause it would probably be easier to keep the old box and just do an engine swap. It is all "plug and play" essentially cause you put it in as a unit.

[328FTW]

Oh yeah 20v swap is a different deal. That does require some things like MR_mean2 said. 4agze depending on what it came from can be easy or hard.

[tjmr2]

The 4AGE block will essentially be be the same, it will have the same bolt pattern to your trans-axle, the motor mount holes will be in the same place. But (don't you hate that word) I would bet a J spec 4AGE that you can buy today won't be the same year etc as your original. That's where the fun begins.

If you go 16 valve to 16 valve you will have to change over some sensors and covers, easiest swap - and power will be about equal to what you have today.

If you swap to a 20 valve you have to change the sensors and modify the wiring harness, coolant lines, throttle cable and assorted other challenges. None of which are insurmountable but can be daunting. I think the record time for a 20v swap is three days, mine took more like three months of Sundays, but I changed a ton of parts because this was going to be my daily driver. Expect about a 40% increase in HP from the stock 16v.

And then you can throw in a trans-axle swap along with it. You can use your original, or the one that came with your new engine, if it's a FWD. A RWD will have a transmission with a single drive shaft out the back, but a FWD's trans-axle's problem is the shifter linkage will be on the wrong side of the trans-axle. This can be remedied if you have a bushing machined and without specialized machine tools, but again it's time and experience working with stuff and troubleshooting the challenges that come up.

If you are mechanically inclined, have done a swap or two, go for it. The 4AGE should fit, the key to a successful swap is to do your homework. There are a ton of articles on this site and on the web concerning swaps. Confirm everything before you lay your money on the table, and we will be here to help the best we can.

Good luck!

[z33steve]

Thanks for all the info guys. I REALLY appreciate it. I just want to bring this thing to a respecable daily driving level. I just rebuilt the brake calipers. Did the pads and rotors while at it and now it stops great. The engine still runs just fine but burns oil. I want the easiest/simpilist/cheapest swap. No intention of a 20v. I am just swaping the engine and would have no problem swapping accessories off the current engine onto the fresh(er) engine if needed. I just want everything to bolt in and hook up (wires).

From what you guys said and what I got from Wikipedia about the 4age, it looks like I just need to make sure it is a 16v and not from a RWD (ae86). "3 rib" or "7 rib" will both swap in without issue, correct?

Thanks again,

Steve

[328FTW]

I would say you want a bluetop if you are looking for a no hassle swap. The J-spec will be a map bluetop and should once you bolt on the gearbox and put it in it will not be a wiring nightmare like the 20v can be. 3 rib and 7 rib indicate the strength of the block. Either will do since you are not going to boost it or go for 200+ hp or anything, bluetops are generally 3 rib. Since you can use the old flywheel and clutch on the old box that will be one less thing to worry about/buy.

Just thank god it isn't a civic or integra your rebuilding cause they do some crazy things like changing where the engine mounts bolt.

[mr220v]

Wiring nightmare? The 20v is easy.

[tjmr2]

Ok, since I am a customer of mr220v, I have to admit his harness does make it easier to change to a 20valve, certainly not a nightmare, and well worth every penny. Even after performing a swap to a 20v last winter, if I had to do it again I would. And would use mr220v's wiring harness again as it simplified the job by an expotential amount.

Oh yeah the Black Top is so fast my wife doesn't like driving the car any more, as it scares her. I had to smile and say "Well dear, that's ok, I'll drive when we need to take the 2 on a date." 160+ horsepower and 35+ MPG, = too much fun.

[328FTW]

It can be a nightmare it all depends on if you buy mr220v's harness. I live on the other side of the world and am broke so can't really get one only the old fashioned cut and splice with the help of a wiring diagram way. It is not fun that way but if you buy a harness yes it would be much easier.

[z33steve]

thanks guys. I just got back from vacation and there is a foot of snow here. looks like I will have to wait till it melts to go to the engine seller and check out what they have.