20V: A new 20V on the road :D

[MR III]

Hi all,.

My name is Micheal den Hartog.
I live in Rozenburg near Rotterdam Holland.

I am new here !

But I am not new with the AW11 and been driving it with a smile on my face for 8 years know

I just finish a swap on of the two AW11 I own,.
I gave it a 2e gen SilverTop ! its a nice fresh engine with 80.000 Km on it out of a Levin Automatic.
So it never had any hi rpm's and at this time I am careful running this one in.
I done all work simply on the street in the middle of winter
So it took a lot of working ahead and studies but the price was worth it
This was the price,.

YouTube - First run 4AGE 20V SilverTop swap to...

Finally,.

[mr3]

Nice job. I cant wait till I get mine in. Your swap looks so clean. I hope I have the patience to do a nice clean swap like yours.

[MR III]

Well,.I had two weeks left from last year so it was a holiday ore stay home and use that money and time fore this project

So instead of having by now already a blur memory of some beach and some JD's and some relaxing,.. I drive to my work with even a bigger smile than before on my face

I have only one problem and that is the woman !
She drives daily the white 16V to work and now she has here eye's on my 20V black one.
Only after its run in,.and then after every oil is new,.still she keeps on nagging.
She is so impatient some times,.

[mr3]

Did you extend your throttle cable? I'm hoping that is one part that I dont have to do. I heard you can just reroute the cable. I'll probably have a bunch of questions when I start.

Next step for you. Get a blacktop for the white one and let the wife drive the black one.

[MR III]

He he he ,.first I need some serious Blacktop money

And yes I did reroute the cable from the beginning to the right side of the body so no extension was needed.

[MR III]

Woeps,..one post to many.

[mr220v]

Looks great, and your check engine light stays off.

[MR III]

Tanx ! and so far everything works great ,.done 1800 km now on new oil.
Not even been over 3500 rpm till at least some were over 800 km.
This weekend flush that oil out and put again some new in incl the oil filter.
That will make sure the engine is totally clean now and then give it its first go to 7000 rpm

Only thing that I lost is the green and red economy lights, not you're worst loss ..but what surprised me was the correct functioning of the oil pressure meter in the dash
It was a gamble to put the old 16V censor on the 20V and plug it in,.was not sure it will work.

[mr220v]

Originally Posted by MR III

It was a gamble to put the old 16V censor on the 20V and plug it in,.was not sure it will work.

Actually that's what you're supposed to do.


I wired a 20v for a guy in Holland. It was a blacktop into an 88. Would have been about a year and a half ago.

[tjmr2]

Good Job, Welcome!

[MR III]

Tanx !

Originally Posted by mr220v

Actually that's what you're supposed to do.

Ha ha ha I know by now it was a good gamble

He,.maybe you can help me whit a small but annoying problem,.you seem to know some on 20V's,.
I have that sometimes the engine stutters and the power decreases,.especially when I relies the throttle after accelerating,.but,. if I stand still fore a moment its gone and he runs smoothly again.
My feeling says its the lambda,.but is it broken ore is the location not right ?
I placed the lambda after the flexible exhaust pipe,.this one a advice I got but my guts now says I have to put him in frond of the flexible exhaust pipe and closer to the exhaust manifold so that it maybe heats up better and get the right reading and temperature.
Ore is the location correct and is the thing broken and is there a way to test this ?
Ore,. am I totally looking in the wrong corner for this problem ?

[mr220v]

Heated o2 sensors arent' sensitive to exhaust location. They're self heating. They just have to be located in front of the cat.

Bad TPS's are pretty common. Try unplugging it and see if the problem goes away.

[MR III]

It runs with a unplugged o2 sensor ? ore do you mean the TPS ?
Thing has a self heater ?
Finally some advice that make sense had been calling a round but did not get anything useful so far ,.
A really big thank you mate !! you rock !

[MR III]

Well,.I solved the problem with the stuttering on throttle realise.
Do not ask me how but the throttle cable sifted a bit so the was a little tension on it and the throttle valve's was continually open for a mm ore 3.
The TPS was not so happy with that
Now the cable is back to where it suppose to bee and its gone.
Only I keep on noticing that the settings are not always right,.most of the time it runs fine,.next you smell the gasoline a little bit like it is to rich,.
That o2 censor was not new and I think ,m gone get a new one very quickly.
But anyhow it runs fine now and some were next week I going to a Toyota dealer and see if the can do a diagnostic on it an see if all settings a fine and if needed so calibrate them.
A order a lambda and some new spark plug cables,.these are also not so sparky any more.
Yesterday I was near Venlo in Germany and had my first opener to 7000 rpm,.
I did not wanted to take it higher for the first time but it rocketed smoothly to 160 km/ph
And That was really enjoyable,.

YouTube - 4A-GE 20V Silver Top MRII AW11 First...

[MR III]

Tanks to a old vacuum cleaner and the sandblaster @ work,..
Needed to make a final version anyway,.had a idea















This one is a little bit blur,.but its difficult to take a normal camera shot of some thing so shiny.

[stu4u3]

Kick ass man.

[MR III]

Well,..been buzzy,.and finally solved all the problems
It has run al the time proper but I was never really pleased how it run.
One day it runs fine ,.the next I was bouncing all over the highway.
After all it was al logical but that is always after,..

The summer arrived so plenty time to start digging and taking a really good look and the individual systems of the engine and try to find out what is wrong.
Walking that route I fount several problems and all where things I was warn about.
All do the engine was not very old in run time therms,.89.000 km on off paper.
Some engine parts run that number are simply warn out,.
And if I had bad luck and the engine had not run for years sitting in a depot.
Gaskets and even oil seals are drying out and can give big problems.
well,.I was so lucky

At the first major inspection ad home before the swap, all seals where fine accept the camshaft seals,.the were not so proper and shown small traces of oil behind the timer belt.
But do to lake of time and the seals part numbers I skip those in the make ready proses but did replace all the rest like gaskets and belts,tensor,thermostat etc,.. thinking it was not a direct problem but knowing that the need to be replace in not to far future.

Finding out that the VVI runs on oil pressure it made sense why this did not always work correct.
When the engine also had oil traces I got the seals as fast as lightning and replace them.









One other thing I did not gave attention was the ignition.
It had still the original fabric parts all over it and the ignition cables where almost cut true and broken and the disbributor lost its carbon pin in the middle and rotor had 1 cm of rust all over it.
Looking back its a miracle it has run all this time with these crappy things on it.





In the quest for parts I got lucky and got my hands on a original TRD 20V ignition cable set

The idle running problem were not good connected lines to the intake housing.
Completely change the set up and took out the old air filter box and put a open pw filter on it.

Now finally it runs like hell when I kick the accelerator and every time it runs the same,..like the monster I Hope It was but it took some time to get there.
It stopped consuming oil and fuel and get,. driving normal [120 km/ph] to work,.a consumption off 1l on 19/20 Km,.what way better is than the original 16V that never got better than 1l/14km.
So know its time to start enjoying this little toy a created and take a vacation


I have finally the original workshop repair manual for 20V !!
So that comes in handy and I have it in PDF for those interested.

The parts list here where handy but a lot of numbers are changed,.
These are new ones and the info I needed.

Intake camshaft seal 90311-40015 out 90311-35040
Camshaft pully 60 n/m tensor timer belt 35 n/m Camshaft bearings 17 n/m
Distributor 19101-16010 rotor 19100-16270


It looked like this months ago,.







This is to day,..

[espguitarist33]

two questions

what viscocity oil do you use?
and is the repair manual for the silvertop or the blacktop?

[MR III]

Valvoline Turbo 10W40 semi synthetic and I refresh it every 5000 km.

The manual is for a blacktop but very handy for the silvertop as well.
The engines are mechanical in many ways alike.

[espguitarist33]

i know i was just curious which manual you had.. havnt found a silvertop one