GZE CUT OUT - Page 2

tksmr2 · 05-01-2009, 08:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ebouwman

what about the knock sensor?

Thought about it.. maybe.. that is one of the other things I never looked into.. But, like I mentioned.. I gave up.. and the only way I'll try anything is if someone has the same problem.. and they replace something that I dind't replace, and it fixed their problem. Otherwise my MK1 will continue to sit b/c I'm sick of messing around with it..

85SuperGZE · 05-01-2009, 05:01 PM

I have tried everything but the resistor and fpr, hopefully get them tomorrow or Monday, as I've been waiting for 4 days, as they probably shipped Tuesday. Not touching the knock sensor till I try these two things, I have sank at LEAST 500 bucks into this past 2 weeks. And I glad you (tksmr2) tried the ecu, but that isnt what I'm guessing it would be. It could be a vsv to the fpr, but that is after I get the fpr and resistor pack off the check list, though my resistor pack is within spec. Here is a pic of my next guess as I have the abv mod done, I switched it to normal but that didn't change anything does anybody know if the two vsv's are interchangable (Idoubt it)that are on the engine, and what the heck does vsv stand for?, I have forgotten!!!

With the abv mod one isn't used. the one above where the label reads "C2" They look the same don't they.

tksmr2 · 05-02-2009, 12:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 85SuperGZE

I have tried everything but the resistor and fpr, hopefully get them tomorrow or Monday, as I've been waiting for 4 days, as they probably shipped Tuesday. Not touching the knock sensor till I try these two things, I have sank at LEAST 500 bucks into this past 2 weeks. And I glad you (tksmr2) tried the ecu, but that isnt what I'm guessing it would be. It could be a vsv to the fpr, but that is after I get the fpr and resistor pack off the check list, though my resistor pack is within spec. Here is a pic of my next guess as I have the abv mod done, I switched it to normal but that didn't change anything does anybody know if the two vsv's are interchangable (Idoubt it)that are on the engine, and what the heck does vsv stand for?, I have forgotten!!!
http://i404.photobucket.com/albums/p...hine/00abv.jpg

With the abv mod one isn't used. the one above where the label reads "C2" They look the same don't they.

http://i404.photobucket.com/albums/p...bvmodafter.jpg

I can tell you the problem has nothign to do with the ABV mod either. I had the problem before I did the ABV mod.. And, it still does it after the ABV mod.

VSV = Vacuum switching Valve

Yea.. I tried an ECU b/c I figured why not.. if it works, it works.. if not... I could just resell it. Well, it did not help.. so that is not the problem either.

THanks.. maybe we can figure this out.. but I've been working on my MK2 lately..

85SuperGZE · 05-04-2009, 02:44 PM

Still waiting for parts DANG!!!!!!!! A week without my gze.....hate'n it!!!!! The n/a is just no where close........While waiting for parts I did put in new cam n crank seals, valve cover gaskets, timing belt, tensioner pulley, all stuff I had new in the box just waiting around till I needed them. My cam seals were on there way out anyway, as they were brittle ......I hope my dizzy rebuild kits dont beat the other parts here, not that the dizzy needs it as I saw no oil when I took it out nor was it leaking, but I ordered that the 30th of April and there is a 9 -12 day ship time for those, if that happens then something went awry!!!! And I will BE P.O.ed Anyway, just a quick update. I dont want to mess with the vsv's till I get that other stuff in but if the parts arent here tomorrow I just will have to jump ahead and do it. I think I can switch them around just not sure, I'll be sure to mark which one is which if/when I do that cause I hate mixing things around.......

mr2tim · 05-04-2009, 05:17 PM

I tried the resistor changeout with my similiar problem and nothing changed. I'm waiting to hear about your knock sensor work as this is one item I haven't swapped out. With 100's of parts I don't have a spare one.

BTW the VSV's all have tiny tiny Toyota #'s imprinted on them, they are so small you need a magnifying glass to read them, check it out.

Toyz Raczing

85SuperGZE · 05-05-2009, 01:32 PM

Thank you, I will, Dang it I was hoping that it was the fpr or resistor, my resistor is within spec, just waiting for the fpr.......All of a sudden I am thinking its the vsv or knock sensor. Aside from those four, I have changed everything. Where would the knock sensor be located, please dont say behind the alt and bracket as I JUST HAD THAT OFF AAAAGHHHH, I'm not running a/c nor is there a bracket on there, I left it off when I did the swap.

tksmr2 · 05-05-2009, 02:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 85SuperGZE

Thank you, I will, Dang it I was hoping that it was the fpr or resistor, my resistor is within spec, just waiting for the fpr.......All of a sudden I am thinking its the vsv or knock sensor. Aside from those four, I have changed everything. Where would the knock sensor be located, please dont say behind the alt and bracket as I JUST HAD THAT OFF AAAAGHHHH, I'm not running a/c nor is there a bracket on there, I left it off when I did the swap.

I think the Knock sensor is located on the drivers side intake side of the block.

I wouldn't be surprised if it is the knock sensor. I heard the typical lifespan of a knock sensor is around 10 yeas.. and they can get soft over time and give out faulty readings to the ECU, causing the ECU To retard ignition timing, and cause bucking, hesistion, surging, etc.. My 87sc started out bucking, hesitating, etc.. and then bogged, etc.. to the point of were it is now. I bet it is that damn knock sensor. Get it changed ASAP.. lol

85SuperGZE · 05-06-2009, 10:34 AM

Now just to try and trace one down,probably the dealership.......great. I havent gotten any codes for it though, I havent gotten ANY codes for that matter. Well we'll see. Anyway I can find a pic of one?

mr220v · 05-06-2009, 11:40 AM

I had a situation once with a 3sge where the car would run normally up until about 40% throttle. When I crossed that threshold the engine would die. If I kept it past that threshold, I could actually cause the car to cut off.

I had to drive the car for about 20miles like that on the expressway. I was barely able to make 60mph.

I got off the expressway and disconnected my TPS. The problem went away. I bought a replacement tps a few days later, and never had the problem again.

The whole time I was having the issue, it never once registered a code for the tps. Somebody earlier in the thread mentioned that they checked the tps. Unfortunately, I don't think that checking tps resistance necessarily picks up on the problem.

So go and try driving around with the tps unplugged and see if the problem continues. It's an easy way to eliminate the tps as the issue.

85SuperGZE · 05-06-2009, 12:37 PM

Have done that, and it didnt go away, Thanks for the input as well. I did buy and install a new one already to no avail. I have to wait for some parts as theyre coming from Canada, so I will update then. I talked to the dealer about a knock sensor and he suggests it should trigger a code which I am not getting any, but going to order that and a vsv for the fpr payday, about 300 bucks including shipping from the west coast. That is if the fpr and resistor pack I am waiting on doesnt solve the problem first! My n/a's Im driving are just plain boring.

tksmr2 · 05-06-2009, 12:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 85SuperGZE

Now just to try and trace one down,probably the dealership.......great. I havent gotten any codes for it though, I havent gotten ANY codes for that matter. Well we'll see. Anyway I can find a pic of one?

Yea.. dealer.. not sure what they cost. But, I don't think I would trust a used one.

Yea.. I don't have any codes either.

85SuperGZE · 05-06-2009, 01:52 PM

Well the dealer says 212.99 plus shipping from west coast, not too bad, but GEEZ. The guy says it should send a signal to the ecu no matter what(meaning if it is bad) not saying I shouldnt get one(of coarse he wouldnt) but said if I wasnt sure that it was sending a "bad" signal to the ecu just unplug it, start the car and I should get a signal right away. As the ecu will jump into a "safe mode" thus setting off the signal. When my o2 sensor went bad it sent a signal so I am guessing that it isnt the knock sensor, but will get one anyway, why not?! already spent a load on this thing, couldve bought a whole other 2!!!!!!

tksmr2 · 05-06-2009, 03:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 85SuperGZE

Well the dealer says 212.99 plus shipping from west coast, not too bad, but GEEZ. The guy says it should send a signal to the ecu no matter what(meaning if it is bad) not saying I shouldnt get one(of coarse he wouldnt) but said if I wasnt sure that it was sending a "bad" signal to the ecu just unplug it, start the car and I should get a signal right away. As the ecu will jump into a "safe mode" thus setting off the signal. When my o2 sensor went bad it sent a signal so I am guessing that it isnt the knock sensor, but will get one anyway, why not?! already spent a load on this thing, couldve bought a whole other 2!!!!!!

Yea... if it's not the knock sensor or resistor, or FPR..then I have no clue what it could be.. It's gotta be some sort of sensor.. or something related to wiring going to a sensor.. b/c the car runs pretty good for a very short time after you reset the ECU.

This is really rediculous.. And, I'm sure we are not the only ones with the same exact problem. Others have variations of the problem.. but you are probbably the only one that actually has had the 'same' problem, exact same.

ebouwman · 05-06-2009, 08:10 PM

ya just because it's going bad doesn't necessarily mean it'll throw a code. When my o2 sensor started to give really bad readings it never threw an engine light. Actually i think it would, but it would only flash once for a few seconds then go away.

olson-g · 05-06-2009, 11:52 PM

unlikely to be knock sensor. I have run my 4agze without a knock sensor for several weeks (broke it replacing water pump). Car will run , but timing is retarded, so noticeable lack of power. Did not cause hesitating or uneven running.

mr220v · 05-07-2009, 10:18 AM

One question, has anybody tried pulling their SC relay or has anybody rigged the SC to run all the time? This might eliminate some issue with SC engagement?

Another thought, has anybody either replaced or run without the coolant temp sensor? How about the idle control solenoid?

85SuperGZE · 05-07-2009, 06:07 PM

NOPE NOT THE FPR NOR THE RESISTOR PACK **ugh** on the upside I checked the fpr vsv and it fails BIG time, according to the bgb and I'll quote "Check that air does not flow from "E" to "F" apply battery voltage and check that air does flow" and it indeed does without battery voltage, I could breathe through it if I needed to! Here is the link to the online bgb in case anyone is interested..... The MR2OC Online Parts Catalog well time to move to the next thing, oh yea and as I previously posted the vsv's are not interchangable....dang. Is the vsv for the fpr only for idle up? As I read it the vsv should flow air, why would it hurt if it is always sucking on the fpr, I unhooked it and it didnt change my problem.

ebouwman · 05-07-2009, 07:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 85SuperGZE

NOPE NOT THE FPR NOR THE RESISTOR PACK **ugh** on the upside I checked the fpr vsv and it fails BIG time, according to the bgb and I'll quote "Check that air does not flow from "E" to "F" apply battery voltage and check that air does flow" and it indeed does without battery voltage, I could breathe through it if I needed to! Here is the link to the online bgb in case anyone is interested..... The MR2OC Online Parts Catalog well time to move to the next thing, oh yea and as I previously posted the vsv's are not interchangable....dang. Is the vsv for the fpr only for idle up? As I read it the vsv should flow air, why would it hurt if it is always sucking on the fpr, I unhooked it and it didnt change my problem.

If the vsv won't close then it'll cause a problem that unplugging it WON'T fix. I'm not familiar with what and how the FPR vsv does for the engine, but it would be a good idea to get that fixed. Also if you unplug it then there will be no current running through the wires that are connected, so i would assume that the ECU may then the engine could just read it as being shut and in fact it's open

Thats just the way i look at it anyways, maybe plug the lines so they can't flow AND unplug the vsv and see if that does anything.

85SuperGZE · 05-07-2009, 07:38 PM

It is open with no current which means it is stuck open, unplugging it electrically will have no effect since it is open already, applying current opens it so it is stuck. I unplugged it via vacuum and the idle drops plug it in idle back to normal, either way no effect on the problem.....even when I plugged the vac line to the new fpr. *ugh* Maybe I got a faulty o2 sensor but again no codes and its a new one. I put it on the same time as the filter, and coil, before the pump. May in fact be the knock sensor, probably since its almost 250 bucks.

ebouwman · 05-07-2009, 11:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 85SuperGZE

It is open with no current which means it is stuck open, unplugging it electrically will have no effect since it is open already, applying current opens it so it is stuck. I unplugged it via vacuum and the idle drops plug it in idle back to normal, either way no effect on the problem.....even when I plugged the vac line to the new fpr. *ugh* Maybe I got a faulty o2 sensor but again no codes and its a new one. I put it on the same time as the filter, and coil, before the pump. May in fact be the knock sensor, probably since its almost 250 bucks.

Oh, i thought you unplugged the electrical connector! Was thinking wtf?

05-01-2009, 05:01 PM	#22 (permalink)
85SuperGZE Multi MK1 Owner Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Dallas, Tx Posts: 87 Thanks: 4 Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	I have tried everything but the resistor and fpr, hopefully get them tomorrow or Monday, as I've been waiting for 4 days, as they probably shipped Tuesday. Not touching the knock sensor till I try these two things, I have sank at LEAST 500 bucks into this past 2 weeks. And I glad you (tksmr2) tried the ecu, but that isnt what I'm guessing it would be. It could be a vsv to the fpr, but that is after I get the fpr and resistor pack off the check list, though my resistor pack is within spec. Here is a pic of my next guess as I have the abv mod done, I switched it to normal but that didn't change anything does anybody know if the two vsv's are interchangable (Idoubt it)that are on the engine, and what the heck does vsv stand for?, I have forgotten!!! With the abv mod one isn't used. the one above where the label reads "C2" They look the same don't they. Last edited by 85SuperGZE; 05-01-2009 at 05:10 PM..

05-07-2009, 06:07 PM	#37 (permalink)
85SuperGZE Multi MK1 Owner Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Dallas, Tx Posts: 87 Thanks: 4 Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	NOPE NOT THE FPR NOR THE RESISTOR PACK ugh on the upside I checked the fpr vsv and it fails BIG time, according to the bgb and I'll quote "Check that air does not flow from "E" to "F" apply battery voltage and check that air does flow" and it indeed does without battery voltage, I could breathe through it if I needed to! Here is the link to the online bgb in case anyone is interested..... The MR2OC Online Parts Catalog well time to move to the next thing, oh yea and as I previously posted the vsv's are not interchangable....dang. Is the vsv for the fpr only for idle up? As I read it the vsv should flow air, why would it hurt if it is always sucking on the fpr, I unhooked it and it didnt change my problem. Last edited by 85SuperGZE; 05-07-2009 at 06:14 PM..

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05-04-2009, 02:44 PM	#24 (permalink)
85SuperGZE Multi MK1 Owner Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Dallas, Tx Posts: 87 Thanks: 4 Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Still waiting for parts DANG!!!!!!!! A week without my gze.....hate'n it!!!!! The n/a is just no where close........While waiting for parts I did put in new cam n crank seals, valve cover gaskets, timing belt, tensioner pulley, all stuff I had new in the box just waiting around till I needed them. My cam seals were on there way out anyway, as they were brittle ......I hope my dizzy rebuild kits dont beat the other parts here, not that the dizzy needs it as I saw no oil when I took it out nor was it leaking, but I ordered that the 30th of April and there is a 9 -12 day ship time for those, if that happens then something went awry!!!! And I will BE P.O.ed Anyway, just a quick update. I dont want to mess with the vsv's till I get that other stuff in but if the parts arent here tomorrow I just will have to jump ahead and do it. I think I can switch them around just not sure, I'll be sure to mark which one is which if/when I do that cause I hate mixing things around.......

05-04-2009, 05:17 PM	#25 (permalink)
mr2tim SUPERcharZed ToyZ RacZer Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: South Florida Posts: 1,789 Thanks: 8 Thanked 118 Times in 111 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (6/100% )	I tried the resistor changeout with my similiar problem and nothing changed. I'm waiting to hear about your knock sensor work as this is one item I haven't swapped out. With 100's of parts I don't have a spare one. BTW the VSV's all have tiny tiny Toyota #'s imprinted on them, they are so small you need a magnifying glass to read them, check it out. Toyz Raczing

05-05-2009, 01:32 PM	#26 (permalink)
85SuperGZE Multi MK1 Owner Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Dallas, Tx Posts: 87 Thanks: 4 Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Thank you, I will, Dang it I was hoping that it was the fpr or resistor, my resistor is within spec, just waiting for the fpr.......All of a sudden I am thinking its the vsv or knock sensor. Aside from those four, I have changed everything. Where would the knock sensor be located, please dont say behind the alt and bracket as I JUST HAD THAT OFF AAAAGHHHH, I'm not running a/c nor is there a bracket on there, I left it off when I did the swap.

05-06-2009, 10:34 AM	#28 (permalink)
85SuperGZE Multi MK1 Owner Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Dallas, Tx Posts: 87 Thanks: 4 Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Now just to try and trace one down,probably the dealership.......great. I havent gotten any codes for it though, I havent gotten ANY codes for that matter. Well we'll see. Anyway I can find a pic of one?

05-06-2009, 11:40 AM	#29 (permalink)
mr220v Beams Owners Group Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 2,529 Thanks: 13 Thanked 176 Times in 147 Posts iTrader Rating: (11/100% )	I had a situation once with a 3sge where the car would run normally up until about 40% throttle. When I crossed that threshold the engine would die. If I kept it past that threshold, I could actually cause the car to cut off. I had to drive the car for about 20miles like that on the expressway. I was barely able to make 60mph. I got off the expressway and disconnected my TPS. The problem went away. I bought a replacement tps a few days later, and never had the problem again. The whole time I was having the issue, it never once registered a code for the tps. Somebody earlier in the thread mentioned that they checked the tps. Unfortunately, I don't think that checking tps resistance necessarily picks up on the problem. So go and try driving around with the tps unplugged and see if the problem continues. It's an easy way to eliminate the tps as the issue.

05-06-2009, 12:37 PM	#30 (permalink)
85SuperGZE Multi MK1 Owner Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Dallas, Tx Posts: 87 Thanks: 4 Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Have done that, and it didnt go away, Thanks for the input as well. I did buy and install a new one already to no avail. I have to wait for some parts as theyre coming from Canada, so I will update then. I talked to the dealer about a knock sensor and he suggests it should trigger a code which I am not getting any, but going to order that and a vsv for the fpr payday, about 300 bucks including shipping from the west coast. That is if the fpr and resistor pack I am waiting on doesnt solve the problem first! My n/a's Im driving are just plain boring.

05-06-2009, 01:52 PM	#32 (permalink)
85SuperGZE Multi MK1 Owner Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Dallas, Tx Posts: 87 Thanks: 4 Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Well the dealer says 212.99 plus shipping from west coast, not too bad, but GEEZ. The guy says it should send a signal to the ecu no matter what(meaning if it is bad) not saying I shouldnt get one(of coarse he wouldnt) but said if I wasnt sure that it was sending a "bad" signal to the ecu just unplug it, start the car and I should get a signal right away. As the ecu will jump into a "safe mode" thus setting off the signal. When my o2 sensor went bad it sent a signal so I am guessing that it isnt the knock sensor, but will get one anyway, why not?! already spent a load on this thing, couldve bought a whole other 2!!!!!!

05-06-2009, 08:10 PM	#34 (permalink)
ebouwman Curve Hugger Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: BC Posts: 1,600 Thanks: 19 Thanked 51 Times in 51 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	ya just because it's going bad doesn't necessarily mean it'll throw a code. When my o2 sensor started to give really bad readings it never threw an engine light. Actually i think it would, but it would only flash once for a few seconds then go away.

05-06-2009, 11:52 PM	#35 (permalink)
olson-g No Skills Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 8 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	unlikely to be knock sensor. I have run my 4agze without a knock sensor for several weeks (broke it replacing water pump). Car will run , but timing is retarded, so noticeable lack of power. Did not cause hesitating or uneven running.

05-07-2009, 10:18 AM	#36 (permalink)
mr220v Beams Owners Group Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 2,529 Thanks: 13 Thanked 176 Times in 147 Posts iTrader Rating: (11/100% )	One question, has anybody tried pulling their SC relay or has anybody rigged the SC to run all the time? This might eliminate some issue with SC engagement? Another thought, has anybody either replaced or run without the coolant temp sensor? How about the idle control solenoid?

05-07-2009, 07:38 PM	#39 (permalink)
85SuperGZE Multi MK1 Owner Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Dallas, Tx Posts: 87 Thanks: 4 Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	It is open with no current which means it is stuck open, unplugging it electrically will have no effect since it is open already, applying current opens it so it is stuck. I unplugged it via vacuum and the idle drops plug it in idle back to normal, either way no effect on the problem.....even when I plugged the vac line to the new fpr. ugh Maybe I got a faulty o2 sensor but again no codes and its a new one. I put it on the same time as the filter, and coil, before the pump. May in fact be the knock sensor, probably since its almost 250 bucks.