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Old 04-21-2009, 10:13 PM   #1 (permalink)
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GZE CUT OUT

Okay, Ive been driving my swapped gze into an 85 for almost 3 years not one problem, today just tooling around, not hot rodding or anything, I go to drive from a stop at a light, heavy bucking, I dont push the throttle down and it runs fine, I get out and unplug the s/c relay, it's okay but if I floor it, it tries to die. This is totally out of the blue, all the vac lines are good, no leaks, ya'll think it's fpr or is it maybe another vac related part, like the one that leads to the fpr? I don't have any mods done other than it being in a 85, not even the abv mod, but I was thinking it may be related to it, like one of the vsv's. Any help appreciated in advance
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Old 04-21-2009, 11:07 PM   #2 (permalink)
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maybe an issue with the afm, check and make sure the connector is on nice and tight
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Old 04-22-2009, 09:20 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks, going to get after it this morning.
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Old 04-23-2009, 10:06 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Well, did drop the tank and replace the pump, only like the umpteenth time doing it, I forgotten it really isnt that bad. It took me like 4 hours, and thats with siphoning 3/4 tank a gas, a gallon at a time(put it in my other cars, and mower) forgot to keep a gallon to put it in to drive to the gas station though.(mustv'e been the fumes). I did replace the vac lines and fuel lines and clamps, last time on one of my 2's I didn't and ended up back under there doing it because of all the fumes, ugh. Much easier doing it while its out. All I have to do now is reinstall all the plastic under the car and fire it up. On the upside, I went ahead and removed the a/c lines that were there for no reason as I never put the a/c on when I did the swap. I'll get it fired up in the next couple hours and see how it goes.
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Old 04-23-2009, 10:36 AM   #5 (permalink)
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good news. I bet it runs like a new car now. Just in time to go get some tacos tonight
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Old 04-25-2009, 12:15 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Have the same problem(s) since 10-08, can't go full bore off the line. If I go slow throttle there's no problem. Once rolling goes WOT no problem! I've swap'd everything over from my street car (another S/C) and added new pump with no resolution. Fuel pressure gauge stays up at 33lbs without a dip in pressure. Totally baffled?
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Old 04-25-2009, 02:10 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Yep.. common problem.. some people have variations of it.. I've had the problem for 5 years or so now.. I just parked the car.. don't know if I'll ever drive it again..


Reset the ECU, and it will run fine for 5-10 miles or so (actually, if you leave your ECU unplugged a long time, then the problem takes a little longer to come back).. then you will start to get some hesitation,, then it will get worse and worse, bogging, and hesitating.. and then eventually. the car will not MOVE if you hammer the gas.. you have to feather the throttle numerous times.. and then it will take off. Problem has been a pain in my ass ever since the swap.. and I've changed a lot of stuff to try and fix it.


No codes, new fuel pump, new fuel filter, but its' like the ECU says don't deliver fuel after a certain amount of driving. Oh, I replaced my ECU and AFM as well.


It's either wiring, ignitor, coil, or I just don't know.. b/c those are the only things I have not touched.


It's NOT the lean out condition either.. No way.. !!
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Old 04-29-2009, 03:56 AM   #8 (permalink)
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TPS maybe?
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Old 04-29-2009, 10:18 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ebouwman View Post
TPS maybe?
he already checked that.. I believe he is waiting for a resitor, and FPR.
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Old 04-29-2009, 09:12 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I think you should test all your injectors. Sounds like maybe the fuel isn't getting past the injectors fast enough. but it has enough to just idle or when you go slow it flows more evenly. ??IDK?? wouldn't hurt to check
goodLuck
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Old 04-29-2009, 11:32 PM   #11 (permalink)
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FYI.. I had my injectors cleaned.. and that made absolutetly no difference. Also, my injectors were in good shape before I had them cleaned according to the test sheet from Withhunter.

Again.. this is some sort of sensor/electronic issue in that the ECU releases data to the sensors after a certain period of time, telling it to not deliver fuel.. THe problem gets worse and worse until the car will not move when you hit the gas pedal.. no matter how hard to soft you are on the throttle, it won't move unless you feather the throttle numerous times.. and it will then take off. You can imagine how dangerous this can be while sitting at a red light on the highway..


You can unplug the EFI fuse in the engine compartment.. and the car will run decent.. not great, .. for a short amount of time before the problem creeps up again.. the original poster knows what I'm talking about..


This problem is NOT the lean out problem.. not due to dirty injectors, fuel pump, bad spark plugs/wires, fuel filter, bigger pulley, etc, etc..
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Old 04-29-2009, 11:33 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by mr2tim View Post
Have the same problem(s) since 10-08, can't go full bore off the line. If I go slow throttle there's no problem. Once rolling goes WOT no problem! I've swap'd everything over from my street car (another S/C) and added new pump with no resolution. Fuel pressure gauge stays up at 33lbs without a dip in pressure. Totally baffled?


This is not the same problem.
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Old 04-30-2009, 12:09 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Have you ever borrowed and ECU and tryed someone elses? I had numerous issues with one motor and swapping out the ecu from an identical car made the problems go away, no idea why was just one of those "I'll try this" solutions. Might have coroded teminals or loose connection internally or something, bad sensor grounds?
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Old 04-30-2009, 04:05 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Soooo....

Something is changing in that time, causing it to not work. So what changes? Could it be as simple as being temperature related? So like the thermostat is screwy, or the O2 sensor isn't working right?
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Old 04-30-2009, 10:20 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Soooo....

Something is changing in that time, causing it to not work. So what changes? Could it be as simple as being temperature related? So like the thermostat is screwy, or the O2 sensor isn't working right?

it's not the O2 sensor itself, either.. b/c I changed that.. and it didn't make any difference. It's not the thermostat.. b/c I changed that too.

It's not temperature related either.. b/c once it gets worse.. it stays that way until you reset the ECU.. no matter how warmed up, or cold the car is.

No one knows.. it's very screwy. I wish I could find out.. and the original poster has the same problem as me.. and most people have a variation of the problem.. but it's not like the original poster and myself are having.. So, I'm hoping the original poster can figure it out.. b/c I gave up on it.. and it's a real shame b/c my MK1 is great condition.. and I really enjoy driving it.
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Old 04-30-2009, 10:23 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Have you ever borrowed and ECU and tryed someone elses? I had numerous issues with one motor and swapping out the ecu from an identical car made the problems go away, no idea why was just one of those "I'll try this" solutions. Might have coroded teminals or loose connection internally or something, bad sensor grounds?

It's not the ECU either... I've tried 3 usdm 4agze ECU's.. and the other two that I bought were confirmed to be in great condition. And, I even looked a the circuit boards, and there were no burn marks.. every pin was tested.. not an ECU problem.

I could be a bad ground somewhere.. I checked all the grouds.. well. .. atleast I think I did.. I wouldnt' totally rule that out though.. well.. that and the Resistor.
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Old 04-30-2009, 06:27 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Resistor- I was going to say that it could be a bad injector resistor or the ignitor my be over heating making it act up.
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Old 04-30-2009, 08:54 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Resistor- I was going to say that it could be a bad injector resistor or the ignitor my be over heating making it act up.

Yea.. but the car runs great.. well... for a very short time until the ECU sends off it's signals for sensors to take over.. No matter how hot or cold the car is.. once the ECU sends those signals.. it's stuck in memory.. and the car runs like crapola until you reset the ECU/battery, or AM2 fuse.

Then it will run ok for a little while.. then it will take a little longer for the problem to creep back depending on how long you have the fuse, or battery disconnected. If you just unplug the fuse, and plug it back in.. you may get 5-10 miles tops before the problem starts to creep back.. then it will start bogging a little bit, and gradually get worse until the car will not move at all no matter how much or how little throttle pressure you put on. THe car idles fine, and in order to get it to move.. you either have to reset the ECU or feather the throttle atleast 10 times.. before it will take off.



I'm curious if the resistor solves it as that is one of the few things I never replaced.
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Old 04-30-2009, 11:21 PM   #19 (permalink)
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wouldn't hurt to try and if it doesn't fix it then you know one thing less to try
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Old 05-01-2009, 12:52 AM   #20 (permalink)
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what about the knock sensor?
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