4E-FTE swap - Page 2

mhamrick · 05-16-2009, 02:03 PM

This is so tempting to sell off my 4AGTE stuff and rock this. I would but I am saving for a 7AGTE build andhave the rods and pistons now. Just saving for rods. I still want to see someone go this route. The clutch is the same, tranny, and the motors make power very similarly. Also this would be a good step to get your weight down. Look at every fast car out there; the first thing they do is lower the weight.

ebouwman · 05-16-2009, 03:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mhamrick

This is so tempting to sell off my 4AGTE stuff and rock this. I would but I am saving for a 7AGTE build andhave the rods and pistons now. Just saving for rods. I still want to see someone go this route. The clutch is the same, tranny, and the motors make power very similarly. Also this would be a good step to get your weight down. Look at every fast car out there; the first thing they do is lower the weight.

I've been kinda looking at the 7age and wondering how well that actually would work. How much power do you figure you could actually pull outta that 7agte setup you're doing?

Just curious...

I was reading something about a guy that did the 7age and he shaved the block a ton AND decided to shave head to increase compression and then had issues with it pinging *shakes head*

mhamrick · 05-17-2009, 12:56 AM

It depends on how you build the 7A. I have a set of 8.9:1 4AGZE pistons I am going to use with a set of either Spool Rods or maybe the others that are designed for the 7A that I can not remember at the moment. On that build I would not hesitate to build for 350hp with a stock head and a T3/T4 or maybe 325 with a super 60. I am looking at a turbo built 7A but I would say you can build about 180 - 200hp on stock 7A rods and run them to the 4A redline. Most 7A builds ping because the 4A timing is not ideal for the 7A so if you take car of that it would make a great motor. They make alot better torque at lower RPM's which is the reason why Toyota put the TVIS on the 4A head anyway.

Basically it all depends on what you plan on doing with the 7A. What is your intentions. I am not th best person to ask on the matter. Aaron from Lithia is alot more knowledgeable than I am. I want to run the 7A basically for the extra displacement too aid with spool. I have what some people think is a large T3 turbo for 1.6 liter so the extra cubes could help me out alot. The differece between 200hp on a 1.8liter to 1.6ltr is noticeable and the 1.8 will help with torque at lower RPM's. Also the 1.8 will take around 6psi to make 200hp and the 1.6 will take 8.5 psi with the same T3 50 trim. 250hp comes at 14.5 psi on the 1.6ltr and 11.3 psi for the 1.8. Lower boost means better efficiency and less heat from the turbo. It really makes good sense.

ebouwman · 05-17-2009, 02:41 AM

Well the main thing about that build is that it would give good N/A power/torque, similar numbers to the 20v's without too much trouble, BUT the it'd be WAY easier to find a 7afe in my area than it would be to find a 20v or 4agze, or 3sgte or any other engine that could be swapped in.

Just kinda food for thought, right now my mr2 is my dd, so doing a build like that may be a bit tough

especially being i'd want to keep my newly rebuild/reconditioned and ported head (that is currently on my engine) to use on that kind of build. And as of right now i have to work out of town so i have less time to work on it.

mhamrick · 05-17-2009, 04:12 AM

Find you a 7A block and start working on it. Once you get time and you have the block ready pull your motor, swap on your current head, and then reinstall. If you are worried abount pinging (which you should) then I would go with some stock 9.4:1 4AGE pistons. If you can I would also suggest having the rods strength treated and using ARP rod bolts. This way you can feel safe about revving to 7500 and also making a couple extra HP with it. A couple of tasteful bolt-ons will get you some decent numbers and good daily driving machine which seems to be important.

ebouwman · 05-18-2009, 04:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mhamrick

Find you a 7A block and start working on it. Once you get time and you have the block ready pull your motor, swap on your current head, and then reinstall. If you are worried abount pinging (which you should) then I would go with some stock 9.4:1 4AGE pistons. If you can I would also suggest having the rods strength treated and using ARP rod bolts. This way you can feel safe about revving to 7500 and also making a couple extra HP with it. A couple of tasteful bolt-ons will get you some decent numbers and good daily driving machine which seems to be important.

I was thinking along the same lines, if i see a 7A block i will get it for sure (assuming i have the money at the time i see it) and i was thinking that it would be a good idea to balance the crank right out, and the rods, and then get new tougher valve springs for the 4AGE head and then rev it to 8 grand?

What is strength treating anyways? Is that just something you do to the stock rods?

Right now i'm happy to wait for a 7A to pop up, cause i don't feel like going to the junkyard for one, i'm sick of dealing with my local imports junkyard for at least the next month or two.

mhamrick · 05-18-2009, 07:30 AM

Having the rods shot peened makes them stronger and more dependable. The stock 7A rods are notoriously skinny but the seem to be tough. Revving to 8 grand will not recquire stiffer springs. The stock springs are just fine. Before I went crazy with this 4AGTE idea I was planning on doing a ITB 7AGE. I am starting to rethink my plans all together. An ITB 7A with say some 10.0:1 [istons would be nasty little motor.

Stop thinking about it, stop thinking about it!!!

You know a lot of people get worked up over the 3S in a MKI. Really just the mounts are the hard part and they make 180 hp and 140lb ft from the factory. Use a MKII NA tranny and axles and once you have the mounts welded the rest is bolt in. You could make a nice 5SGE by swaping a 3S head on 5S bottom end. The extra stroke will make it a torque little motor with excellent MPG, linear power, and parts availability. I really thought about this for along time before deciding on the 4AGTE.

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05-16-2009, 02:03 PM	#21 (permalink)
mhamrick Some Skills Join Date: May 2009 Posts: 61 Thanks: 1 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	This is so tempting to sell off my 4AGTE stuff and rock this. I would but I am saving for a 7AGTE build andhave the rods and pistons now. Just saving for rods. I still want to see someone go this route. The clutch is the same, tranny, and the motors make power very similarly. Also this would be a good step to get your weight down. Look at every fast car out there; the first thing they do is lower the weight.

05-17-2009, 12:56 AM	#23 (permalink)
mhamrick Some Skills Join Date: May 2009 Posts: 61 Thanks: 1 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	It depends on how you build the 7A. I have a set of 8.9:1 4AGZE pistons I am going to use with a set of either Spool Rods or maybe the others that are designed for the 7A that I can not remember at the moment. On that build I would not hesitate to build for 350hp with a stock head and a T3/T4 or maybe 325 with a super 60. I am looking at a turbo built 7A but I would say you can build about 180 - 200hp on stock 7A rods and run them to the 4A redline. Most 7A builds ping because the 4A timing is not ideal for the 7A so if you take car of that it would make a great motor. They make alot better torque at lower RPM's which is the reason why Toyota put the TVIS on the 4A head anyway. Basically it all depends on what you plan on doing with the 7A. What is your intentions. I am not th best person to ask on the matter. Aaron from Lithia is alot more knowledgeable than I am. I want to run the 7A basically for the extra displacement too aid with spool. I have what some people think is a large T3 turbo for 1.6 liter so the extra cubes could help me out alot. The differece between 200hp on a 1.8liter to 1.6ltr is noticeable and the 1.8 will help with torque at lower RPM's. Also the 1.8 will take around 6psi to make 200hp and the 1.6 will take 8.5 psi with the same T3 50 trim. 250hp comes at 14.5 psi on the 1.6ltr and 11.3 psi for the 1.8. Lower boost means better efficiency and less heat from the turbo. It really makes good sense.

05-17-2009, 02:41 AM	#24 (permalink)
ebouwman Curve Hugger Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: BC Posts: 1,600 Thanks: 19 Thanked 51 Times in 51 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Well the main thing about that build is that it would give good N/A power/torque, similar numbers to the 20v's without too much trouble, BUT the it'd be WAY easier to find a 7afe in my area than it would be to find a 20v or 4agze, or 3sgte or any other engine that could be swapped in. Just kinda food for thought, right now my mr2 is my dd, so doing a build like that may be a bit tough especially being i'd want to keep my newly rebuild/reconditioned and ported head (that is currently on my engine) to use on that kind of build. And as of right now i have to work out of town so i have less time to work on it.

05-17-2009, 04:12 AM	#25 (permalink)
mhamrick Some Skills Join Date: May 2009 Posts: 61 Thanks: 1 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	Find you a 7A block and start working on it. Once you get time and you have the block ready pull your motor, swap on your current head, and then reinstall. If you are worried abount pinging (which you should) then I would go with some stock 9.4:1 4AGE pistons. If you can I would also suggest having the rods strength treated and using ARP rod bolts. This way you can feel safe about revving to 7500 and also making a couple extra HP with it. A couple of tasteful bolt-ons will get you some decent numbers and good daily driving machine which seems to be important.

05-18-2009, 07:30 AM	#27 (permalink)
mhamrick Some Skills Join Date: May 2009 Posts: 61 Thanks: 1 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	Having the rods shot peened makes them stronger and more dependable. The stock 7A rods are notoriously skinny but the seem to be tough. Revving to 8 grand will not recquire stiffer springs. The stock springs are just fine. Before I went crazy with this 4AGTE idea I was planning on doing a ITB 7AGE. I am starting to rethink my plans all together. An ITB 7A with say some 10.0:1 [istons would be nasty little motor. Stop thinking about it, stop thinking about it!!! You know a lot of people get worked up over the 3S in a MKI. Really just the mounts are the hard part and they make 180 hp and 140lb ft from the factory. Use a MKII NA tranny and axles and once you have the mounts welded the rest is bolt in. You could make a nice 5SGE by swaping a 3S head on 5S bottom end. The extra stroke will make it a torque little motor with excellent MPG, linear power, and parts availability. I really thought about this for along time before deciding on the 4AGTE.