Other Mk1 V8 / 6 speed

Paul Woods · 06-18-2009, 02:10 PM

Hi guys, i have condensed this thread with all of the updates from other forums this is posted on so forgive me if it doesn't make perfect sense,but you get the idea!

It's time to disclose my latest project, this car had a TRD supercharged 1MZ-FE in it until last week, but i saw mikeH's audi v8 mk2 and thought im having some of that! So here is my Mk1 with its freshly hung 340bhp AHC v8 with 6 speed trans...

Obviously it needs some major strengthening work, and i have a lot of small issues to sort, but its hung and i still have space for my seat.

A bit more progress, i spent my weekend on the car and i have managed to sort out a way to control the gears.I had a long hard look at the audi gearbox and its selector rod and decided an Mr2 style shifter assembly might work.The plan was to make everything from a Mk2 NA box work.... and after a few hours work i managed to attach the mr2 forks....

Mk3 cables were found to be the perfect length to stretch from the gearstick to the box linkage....

This works really well,i can get all 6 forward gears very easily and reverse.At the stick end it needed a little more work, i had to lengthen one of the cable holding brackets and extend both cables with tubing, finally attaching the mk1 cable ends onto the mk3 cables.It all works really well and a massive hurdle out of the way.

I have also rebuilt the front engine bay crossmember but forgot to take pics.

Another update, here is my drivers side driveshaft, remember here we are trying to mate an Audi gearbox to Toyota hubs.... so without going for full custom made driveshafts which is a VERY expensive thing to do i needed to find a solution.

This is an Audi driveshaft from the 2.0ltr TDI model and i have managed to find a Toyota CV joint that slotted straight onto the Audi shaft :shock: I mean stuff like that just doesn't happen normally!

This shaft is now completely Plug and play on the drivers side, no other mods needed, it just works.

On the passenger side i need to use the same Toyota CV joint but i do need to shorten the driveshaft, details on that will happen when we actually do it but it is pretty simple due to the design of these shafts.

Ok i think the swap gods have truly blessed this conversion! Things just seem to be getting easier and incredibly luckier as i go.

The plan for the left side driveshaft was to cut down the Audi shaft, have a machine shop lathe me up a perfect fitting bar to slot into each side of the cut shaft and then weld the whole thing up.A perfect fitting inner bar is the only real way i could see to guarantee a straight shaft.I know it will still need to be balanced afterwards anyway but getting it initially straight was the first plan of attack and i thought only having a specially lathed insert would be the only way.... until this happened....

I cut the Audi shaft and removed about 2" from it to make it the correct length for the car, then i took an internal bore measurement of the shaft using the micrometer and it was 26.15mm exactly.

Out of curiosity i started randomly measuring bits of steel rod/shaft or whatever i could find with approximately the same measurement, i thought well if i find something say 27 or 28mm i will get that turned down to the right diameter.Then i stuck the micrometer on the shaft of an old scrap Mk2NA right side axle and i could not believe it when the mic read 26.2mm!!! So i immediately cut a section of the Mk2 shaft out...

I cleaned it up and test fitted it into the audi axle....a nice tight fit! Absolutely perfect! I mean you just do not get luckier than this.

Here it is alongside the Audi shaft before being inserted....

And here it is inserted into the shaft, you can see i have cut slots in each side of the shaft to weld through to the bar as well as welding it around the join.

Will it be strong enough? I honestly don't know as nobody has ever done it this way before to the best of my knowledge, I am taking every measure to make sure it will be strong though, and this is the only alternative i have at the moment instead of a custom made shaft costing $$$$$...if it breaks then i will find a way to make it stronger but i think it will be ok.

So all that is left to do is make sure this shaft is balanced ok, but the Mk2 shaft insert has worked perfectly....i can't believe a mk2NA shaft is the perfect diameter to fit inside an Audi shaft.... thankyou swap gods!

Pics as promised, nothing very exciting but you get the idea.... here is my new front crossmember, it is tied into the old chassis and also the old crossmember.

Here is one of my chassis mounts with the engine cradle bolted to it....

This cradle runs under the sump as per my sketch above.

Here is my transmission cradle..... i had to make the carrier bracket that bolts to the case,then used two rubber mounting blocks onto the cradle...

So all of the structural engine/trans mounting work is done.

It was time to shorten my fuel tank, this was necessary because the engine sits further forward so i needed to make the tank smaller by about 3".

We were very wary of the dangers involved in cutting and welding a fuel tank but we took every precaution and in the end it worked out well.... what i mean is we didn't die!

The tank was thoroughly washed out with a detergent and soaked for hours, then we let it breathe for 2 weeks, then it was washed out again.Finally we dropped a lit cloth into it with a 10m pole!! Nothing happened!

It was then considered safe to cut the end off the fuel tank,which i did with a grinder.3" was then removed from the tank and then we left the whole lot to breathe again for some weeks.

The last step was welding it back up, this was done using oxy-acetylene as it was the best method i could guarantee a water tight weld.The tank was then water tested by blocking off the pipes and letting it stand on end with water above the weld line... no leaks.Finally the welded area was primed,coated with epoxy resin and painted with 2k black.

Although we got away with doing this and we were totally sure it was safe i cannot condone the welding of any fuel tank so please be careful guys.

3" was removed at the red line and the tank end welded back on.

I made the camry V6 torque mount fit on the v8, this should help a lot!

Also i have boxed in around the engine now, just some angle spot welded in for now to give me an idea how it's all going to look....

With that done i plonked my seat in and it fits nicely and i have enough room even at 6ft tall.

muffinman · 06-18-2009, 02:27 PM

Can't wait to see more

Oteck · 06-18-2009, 02:56 PM

Paul, i have some supra shaft if you need, they might be compatible

Paul Woods · 06-18-2009, 02:57 PM

Thanks oteck but i am all sorted on the axles, if these break i am going to do a mk2 rear hub conversion.

mr3 · 06-18-2009, 03:05 PM

Amazing work. I cant wait to see the running vids. Keep up the good work.

mr2good · 06-18-2009, 03:19 PM

think that might weigh about as much as a vette when its done?

David · 06-18-2009, 03:24 PM

:O That's amazing! Can't wait to see the finished product!

muffinman · 06-18-2009, 03:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mr2good

think that might weigh about as much as a vette when its done?

after more thought ...... i wonder how bad it will understeer?

mr2good · 06-18-2009, 04:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by muffinman

after more thought ...... i wonder how bad it will understeer?

????

Raptor13x · 06-18-2009, 06:25 PM

Holy sh!t! I wanted to do something like that with an LS1 mounted to a 6-speed Porsche transaxle in an mkii for a while, but never had the resources. That is an INSANE project... completely awesome! I want to see it up and running!

brianbooth · 06-18-2009, 06:35 PM

Paul Woods · 06-19-2009, 01:59 AM

how much does a vette weigh? On this build weight is not a factor for me at all, simply getting a working mk1 inline v8 is the mission.I'm expecting this to come in at around 1200-1250 kgs by the time all of the chassis stiffeners and rollcage are added.The engine itself is not a heavy unit, and i have mounted it more towards the centre of the car, i think oversteer will be more of a concern than understeer.

I will keep this thread updated as it happens.

Raptor13x · 06-19-2009, 03:27 AM

Corvettes typically weigh around 3200lbs. They're pretty heavy... and while that swap will add weight, I doubt the end product will weigh over 2800lbs. It's gonna be fast... especially if he mods that engine.

scottohno · 06-19-2009, 04:10 AM

i can smell the rice burning already. i wanna see you race a civic with an exhaust and intake and have him not know what hit him. he just might poop his pants

Paul Woods · 06-19-2009, 04:19 AM

I think this thing might suck a civic up the intake and poop it out lol

jasenklems · 07-30-2009, 09:12 AM

nice project... getting things together for my 3.0l sho swap right now would like to talk about all the small things that need done if you dont mind

mr3 · 07-30-2009, 09:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Paul Woods

how much does a vette weigh? On this build weight is not a factor for me at all, simply getting a working mk1 inline v8 is the mission.I'm expecting this to come in at around 1200-1250 kgs by the time all of the chassis stiffeners and rollcage are added.The engine itself is not a heavy unit, and i have mounted it more towards the centre of the car, i think oversteer will be more of a concern than understeer.

I will keep this thread updated as it happens.

I was about to do a ls1 swap into a 300zx but I didnt have the $$ so I sold it off. The LS1 engine is about 450lbs. Any updates on this project?

Paul Woods · 07-30-2009, 12:52 PM

Quick update, my new exhaust silencers arrived yesterday, these will be piped after the TVR silencer, hopefully all of this will keep the Db down without losing the wonderful v8 note.I just cable tied them into position for now, starting to look like a v8 mk1 now eh?

Made some good progress today on the structural firewall welding, i got most of it boxed in and ready for seam sealing which will tidy up some of my pinholes, welding thick steel to thin stuff is a right pain! Also i routed the fuel filler hose which needs to go in the cabin side due to space issues....

The day ended with part of the unboltable lid made and bolted down, the face of the wall will be unboltable too and that small section missing from the right hand side top will be a hinged flap so that i can top oil up easily without having to unbolt anything...

So apart from needing to tidy up the welded seams on the wall and seam seal it all before painting i am pretty happy with this.

David · 07-30-2009, 12:56 PM

Looks amazing!

muffinman · 07-30-2009, 02:06 PM

Looking good , now just hurry up and finish so i don't have to wait forever.

06-18-2009, 02:10 PM	#1 (permalink)
Paul Woods Don't talk it, do it. Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 535 Thanks: 10 Thanked 24 Times in 21 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Mk1 V8 / 6 speed Hi guys, i have condensed this thread with all of the updates from other forums this is posted on so forgive me if it doesn't make perfect sense,but you get the idea! It's time to disclose my latest project, this car had a TRD supercharged 1MZ-FE in it until last week, but i saw mikeH's audi v8 mk2 and thought im having some of that! So here is my Mk1 with its freshly hung 340bhp AHC v8 with 6 speed trans... Obviously it needs some major strengthening work, and i have a lot of small issues to sort, but its hung and i still have space for my seat. A bit more progress, i spent my weekend on the car and i have managed to sort out a way to control the gears.I had a long hard look at the audi gearbox and its selector rod and decided an Mr2 style shifter assembly might work.The plan was to make everything from a Mk2 NA box work.... and after a few hours work i managed to attach the mr2 forks.... Mk3 cables were found to be the perfect length to stretch from the gearstick to the box linkage.... This works really well,i can get all 6 forward gears very easily and reverse.At the stick end it needed a little more work, i had to lengthen one of the cable holding brackets and extend both cables with tubing, finally attaching the mk1 cable ends onto the mk3 cables.It all works really well and a massive hurdle out of the way. I have also rebuilt the front engine bay crossmember but forgot to take pics. Another update, here is my drivers side driveshaft, remember here we are trying to mate an Audi gearbox to Toyota hubs.... so without going for full custom made driveshafts which is a VERY expensive thing to do i needed to find a solution. This is an Audi driveshaft from the 2.0ltr TDI model and i have managed to find a Toyota CV joint that slotted straight onto the Audi shaft :shock: I mean stuff like that just doesn't happen normally! This shaft is now completely Plug and play on the drivers side, no other mods needed, it just works. On the passenger side i need to use the same Toyota CV joint but i do need to shorten the driveshaft, details on that will happen when we actually do it but it is pretty simple due to the design of these shafts. Ok i think the swap gods have truly blessed this conversion! Things just seem to be getting easier and incredibly luckier as i go. The plan for the left side driveshaft was to cut down the Audi shaft, have a machine shop lathe me up a perfect fitting bar to slot into each side of the cut shaft and then weld the whole thing up.A perfect fitting inner bar is the only real way i could see to guarantee a straight shaft.I know it will still need to be balanced afterwards anyway but getting it initially straight was the first plan of attack and i thought only having a specially lathed insert would be the only way.... until this happened.... I cut the Audi shaft and removed about 2" from it to make it the correct length for the car, then i took an internal bore measurement of the shaft using the micrometer and it was 26.15mm exactly. Out of curiosity i started randomly measuring bits of steel rod/shaft or whatever i could find with approximately the same measurement, i thought well if i find something say 27 or 28mm i will get that turned down to the right diameter.Then i stuck the micrometer on the shaft of an old scrap Mk2NA right side axle and i could not believe it when the mic read 26.2mm!!! So i immediately cut a section of the Mk2 shaft out... I cleaned it up and test fitted it into the audi axle....a nice tight fit! Absolutely perfect! I mean you just do not get luckier than this. Here it is alongside the Audi shaft before being inserted.... And here it is inserted into the shaft, you can see i have cut slots in each side of the shaft to weld through to the bar as well as welding it around the join. Will it be strong enough? I honestly don't know as nobody has ever done it this way before to the best of my knowledge, I am taking every measure to make sure it will be strong though, and this is the only alternative i have at the moment instead of a custom made shaft costing $$$$$...if it breaks then i will find a way to make it stronger but i think it will be ok. So all that is left to do is make sure this shaft is balanced ok, but the Mk2 shaft insert has worked perfectly....i can't believe a mk2NA shaft is the perfect diameter to fit inside an Audi shaft.... thankyou swap gods! Pics as promised, nothing very exciting but you get the idea.... here is my new front crossmember, it is tied into the old chassis and also the old crossmember. Here is one of my chassis mounts with the engine cradle bolted to it.... This cradle runs under the sump as per my sketch above. Here is my transmission cradle..... i had to make the carrier bracket that bolts to the case,then used two rubber mounting blocks onto the cradle... So all of the structural engine/trans mounting work is done. It was time to shorten my fuel tank, this was necessary because the engine sits further forward so i needed to make the tank smaller by about 3". We were very wary of the dangers involved in cutting and welding a fuel tank but we took every precaution and in the end it worked out well.... what i mean is we didn't die! The tank was thoroughly washed out with a detergent and soaked for hours, then we let it breathe for 2 weeks, then it was washed out again.Finally we dropped a lit cloth into it with a 10m pole!! Nothing happened! It was then considered safe to cut the end off the fuel tank,which i did with a grinder.3" was then removed from the tank and then we left the whole lot to breathe again for some weeks. The last step was welding it back up, this was done using oxy-acetylene as it was the best method i could guarantee a water tight weld.The tank was then water tested by blocking off the pipes and letting it stand on end with water above the weld line... no leaks.Finally the welded area was primed,coated with epoxy resin and painted with 2k black. Although we got away with doing this and we were totally sure it was safe i cannot condone the welding of any fuel tank so please be careful guys. 3" was removed at the red line and the tank end welded back on. I made the camry V6 torque mount fit on the v8, this should help a lot! Also i have boxed in around the engine now, just some angle spot welded in for now to give me an idea how it's all going to look.... With that done i plonked my seat in and it fits nicely and i have enough room even at 6ft tall.

07-30-2009, 12:52 PM	#18 (permalink)
Paul Woods Don't talk it, do it. Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 535 Thanks: 10 Thanked 24 Times in 21 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Quick update, my new exhaust silencers arrived yesterday, these will be piped after the TVR silencer, hopefully all of this will keep the Db down without losing the wonderful v8 note.I just cable tied them into position for now, starting to look like a v8 mk1 now eh? Made some good progress today on the structural firewall welding, i got most of it boxed in and ready for seam sealing which will tidy up some of my pinholes, welding thick steel to thin stuff is a right pain! Also i routed the fuel filler hose which needs to go in the cabin side due to space issues.... The day ended with part of the unboltable lid made and bolted down, the face of the wall will be unboltable too and that small section missing from the right hand side top will be a hinged flap so that i can top oil up easily without having to unbolt anything... So apart from needing to tidy up the welded seams on the wall and seam seal it all before painting i am pretty happy with this. Last edited by Paul Woods; 02-06-2010 at 12:36 PM..

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06-18-2009, 02:27 PM	#2 (permalink)
muffinman U-P-G-R-A-Y-E-D-D Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Sunny South Florida Posts: 5,881 Thanks: 53 Thanked 283 Times in 272 Posts Blog Entries: 1 My Google Map iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	Can't wait to see more

06-18-2009, 02:56 PM	#3 (permalink)
Oteck Eye'm the Str⑨ngest Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Burnaby B.C. Posts: 4,947 Thanks: 11 Thanked 173 Times in 157 Posts Blog Entries: 3 iTrader Rating: (5/100% )	Paul, i have some supra shaft if you need, they might be compatible

06-18-2009, 02:57 PM	#4 (permalink)
Paul Woods Don't talk it, do it. Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 535 Thanks: 10 Thanked 24 Times in 21 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Thanks oteck but i am all sorted on the axles, if these break i am going to do a mk2 rear hub conversion.

06-18-2009, 03:05 PM	#5 (permalink)
mr3 unskilled Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Plymouth Mtg, Pa Posts: 2,408 Thanks: 24 Thanked 98 Times in 93 Posts iTrader Rating: (7/100% )	Amazing work. I cant wait to see the running vids. Keep up the good work.

06-18-2009, 03:19 PM	#6 (permalink)
mr2good Some Skills Join Date: Mar 2009 Posts: 85 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	think that might weigh about as much as a vette when its done?

06-18-2009, 03:24 PM	#7 (permalink)
David Banned Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Tampa, Fl Posts: 2,621 Thanks: 120 Thanked 55 Times in 54 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (4/100% )	:O That's amazing! Can't wait to see the finished product!

06-18-2009, 06:25 PM	#10 (permalink)
Raptor13x Legendary Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Farmington Hills, MI Posts: 3,997 Thanks: 7 Thanked 44 Times in 37 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (5/100% )	Holy sh!t! I wanted to do something like that with an LS1 mounted to a 6-speed Porsche transaxle in an mkii for a while, but never had the resources. That is an INSANE project... completely awesome! I want to see it up and running!

06-18-2009, 06:35 PM	#11 (permalink)
brianbooth Cage Fighter Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Longview, WA Posts: 195 Thanks: 6 Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )

06-19-2009, 01:59 AM	#12 (permalink)
Paul Woods Don't talk it, do it. Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 535 Thanks: 10 Thanked 24 Times in 21 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	how much does a vette weigh? On this build weight is not a factor for me at all, simply getting a working mk1 inline v8 is the mission.I'm expecting this to come in at around 1200-1250 kgs by the time all of the chassis stiffeners and rollcage are added.The engine itself is not a heavy unit, and i have mounted it more towards the centre of the car, i think oversteer will be more of a concern than understeer. I will keep this thread updated as it happens.

06-19-2009, 03:27 AM	#13 (permalink)
Raptor13x Legendary Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Farmington Hills, MI Posts: 3,997 Thanks: 7 Thanked 44 Times in 37 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (5/100% )	Corvettes typically weigh around 3200lbs. They're pretty heavy... and while that swap will add weight, I doubt the end product will weigh over 2800lbs. It's gonna be fast... especially if he mods that engine.

06-19-2009, 04:10 AM	#14 (permalink)
scottohno control your hose Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Fox Lake, IL Posts: 5,100 Thanks: 43 Thanked 93 Times in 83 Posts iTrader Rating: (7/100% )	i can smell the rice burning already. i wanna see you race a civic with an exhaust and intake and have him not know what hit him. he just might poop his pants

06-19-2009, 04:19 AM	#15 (permalink)
Paul Woods Don't talk it, do it. Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 535 Thanks: 10 Thanked 24 Times in 21 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	I think this thing might suck a civic up the intake and poop it out lol

07-30-2009, 09:12 AM	#16 (permalink)
jasenklems Cage Fighter Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Mt. Healthy Ohio Posts: 139 Thanks: 7 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	nice project... getting things together for my 3.0l sho swap right now would like to talk about all the small things that need done if you dont mind

07-30-2009, 12:56 PM	#19 (permalink)
David Banned Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Tampa, Fl Posts: 2,621 Thanks: 120 Thanked 55 Times in 54 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (4/100% )	Looks amazing!

07-30-2009, 02:06 PM	#20 (permalink)
muffinman U-P-G-R-A-Y-E-D-D Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Sunny South Florida Posts: 5,881 Thanks: 53 Thanked 283 Times in 272 Posts Blog Entries: 1 My Google Map iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	Looking good , now just hurry up and finish so i don't have to wait forever.