![]() |
|
|
|
#21 (permalink) |
|
Professional Multislacker
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 506
Thanks: 0
Thanked 17 Times in 17 Posts
My Google Map iTrader Rating: (4/100% ) |
Regarding the constant cracks on the #4 exhaust runner, has anyone with the very late exhaust manifold, where the egr bung was moved, experienced the same cracking? Please respond only if you have actually verified that it has or has not cracked on those.
My thought is that the egr bung location change may have actually been done in relationship to all that cracking on the early models, otherwise why change it? They didn't need to just for the sc application, that I am aware of. At least I don't see why they would have needed to. I have verified that they no longer sell the old egr pipe, but do still sell the late model one, which is also different from the sc unit. I have ordered the late na model egr pipe, to use when I eventually have to replace the older style manifold on my '87 na. I'll buy a late model exhaust manifold to replace it, and use with the later egr pipe. comprende? |
|
|
|
|
|
#22 (permalink) |
|
No Skills
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Thousand Oaks, CA
Posts: 41
Thanks: 3
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
iTrader Rating: (0/0% ) |
I know this thread is a year old but for information's sake:
q-authority, My 1989 SC stock cast iron header did crack at the #4 position in the usual place. I have ~150K miles on it and there is evidence of exhaust leakage on the inside of the upper heat shield. It was a multiple location kind of fracture with slightly lifted areas. The engine bay was stock up to that point. RuzzTMan, because of the problem mentioned above, I am replacing my cracked cast iron SC manifold with a ST 20v header and Aaron Willis' b-pipe. I have had the header ceramic coated inside and out since the original heat shield will not yield to my beatings in order to make it fit the 20v header. I'm stuck at the point of fabbing a custom EGR tube to fit the bung I added to the 20v header so I have no actual time on the exhaust set-up as yet. I think ceramic coating is a great idea. I also had the alternator and AC compressor heat shields coated and the outside faces of those shield's coatings are polished to reflect maximum heat. It costs a bit, but I want longevity. ![]() <edit> BTW, I just found the n/a EGR pipe is available from Toyota but the SC EGR pipe is discontinued. I checked two dealers for this and one of them was Lithia. Seems backwards from what you found. Q-authority, did you ever buy the SC EGR pipe and do you still have it? Last edited by '89SC; 08-24-2010 at 02:34 AM.. |
|
|
|
|
|
#23 (permalink) | |
|
Professional Multislacker
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 506
Thanks: 0
Thanked 17 Times in 17 Posts
My Google Map iTrader Rating: (4/100% ) |
Quote:
I've also had the heat shields for the accessories ceramic coated, but haven't bothered to polish them as I used a silver ceramic coating, which is useful to the highest temps ceramic coatings are usually good for. I've only had general cast aluminum items polished and then clear ceramic coated, which is good to a lower temp than the non-clear coatings, but these items generally don't need the higher protection, plus I am trying to maintain the oem look of the parts as much as possible. As for the egr pipes, as I stated, there appear to be two types of na pipes, '85-87 and '88-89, and then there is the sc pipe. The na egr pipe had to be changed after Toyota started using the new egr bung type manifold on both the sc and the na in '88 and '89 (one of those odd changes that didn't happen between '86 and '87). Supposedly the latter type na egr pipe is available, however, I managed to buy a used one instead. My dealer claims the sc egr pipes are no longer available, which seems a bit odd considering the others won't work on it, and it is available nowhere else. I've now found that at least one or two other items, which Toyota U.S. dealers are claiming are no longer available are only no longer available over here, while I have seen the same items ordered from Japan for people in Australia, etc. I'm not sure how this started happening, but apparently there is some sort of real glitch in the Toyota U.S. parts distributor centers that control the ordering of these things. So, if yout local dealer tells you that the part is no longer made, that might not really be the case. ![]() |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#24 (permalink) |
|
Cage Fighter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: albany oregon
Posts: 294
Thanks: 8
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
iTrader Rating: (0/0% ) |
so i got a used trd header with my motor with very little ruct on it still kinda shinny should i coat it or wrap it
|
|
|
|
|
|
#25 (permalink) | |
|
Professional Multislacker
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 506
Thanks: 0
Thanked 17 Times in 17 Posts
My Google Map iTrader Rating: (4/100% ) |
Quote:
They can't take that kind of heat being held in like that. Remember that while ceramic coating is a good insulator, it will still probaby let significantly more heat escape than wrapping it will. Heat wrap can be an incredible insulator, and it can probably cause significant hot spots because you can't wrap a header nearly as evenly as you can ceramic coat it. Additionally, ceramic coating will preserve the exterior of the header, and keep it from rusting. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#26 (permalink) |
|
Cage Fighter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: albany oregon
Posts: 294
Thanks: 8
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
iTrader Rating: (0/0% ) |
thanks man good info
|
|
|
|
|
|
#27 (permalink) |
|
rookie
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: 405
Posts: 41
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader Rating: (0/0% ) |
Does anyone know about steam pipe exhaust?
|
|
|
|
|
|
#28 (permalink) |
|
rookie
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: 405
Posts: 41
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader Rating: (0/0% ) |
I'm planning on using a turbo on my 4age and was noticing the bends were around $3 each or something, depending on how many needed and what it would take to get-er-welded, and it seems like the only setup not mentioned on here...
anyone got any advice/input |
|
|
|
|
|
#29 (permalink) |
|
Still not heraldo.
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Pineapple under the sea
Posts: 4,910
Thanks: 18
Thanked 404 Times in 301 Posts
Blog Entries: 1
iTrader Rating: (4/100% ) |
the early ecus lean out and crack the manifold from running too hot on that cyl.. it happens at high rpm. you'll probably sell the car before it cracks again, but the root problem is still there.
the oem manifold is excellent. probably the best option for a header for the mk1.
__________________
Science fact: If you took all the veins from your body and laid them end to end, you would die. |
|
|
|
|
|
#30 (permalink) |
|
rookie
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: 405
Posts: 41
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader Rating: (0/0% ) |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#31 (permalink) |
|
No Skills
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Thousand Oaks, CA
Posts: 41
Thanks: 3
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
iTrader Rating: (0/0% ) |
I didn't think about the 87+ n/a being a third pipe layout. Yeah, Toyota only told me of the early n/a and the SC pipes. I already ordered what looks like the early n/a pipe. I'm following up with this tomorrow, thanks!
BTW, ditto about ceramic coating and NOT wrapping the header. Even stainless gets killed by wrapping. Also, ceramic is applied on the inside of the pipe as well so I assume less heat gets into the pipe as a result. I know I may get flamed for this but I also have a 1988 Fiero (there, I said it) and its stainless cross-over pipe was encased with a heatshield from the factory. Pontiac tried this only for '88. The shield was about an inch away from the pipe but coverage was total. The pipe was eventually so heat damaged it could not be welded, it just fell apart. aw11mr2, sorry I don't know about steam pipe exhaust. You mean like steam pipes in ship's engine rooms? (pardon my noob background on your question) Last edited by '89SC; 08-25-2010 at 03:23 AM.. Reason: spelling |
|
|
|
|
|
#32 (permalink) |
|
Still not heraldo.
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Pineapple under the sea
Posts: 4,910
Thanks: 18
Thanked 404 Times in 301 Posts
Blog Entries: 1
iTrader Rating: (4/100% ) |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#33 (permalink) |
|
rookie
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: 405
Posts: 41
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader Rating: (0/0% ) |
is there any advantage in using this type of manifold compared to some of the expensive small hp gains manifolds out there like the hks turbo manifld (not too impressed with, looks like the leingths are unequal ) price wise basically i feel the technology is out there, and just waiting...(lost in thought).. to be bad ass all over my engine bay
|
|
|
|
|
|
#34 (permalink) |
|
Cage Fighter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: albany oregon
Posts: 294
Thanks: 8
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
iTrader Rating: (0/0% ) |
really a fiero
![]() |
|
|
|
|
|
#35 (permalink) |
|
No Skills
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Thousand Oaks, CA
Posts: 41
Thanks: 3
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
iTrader Rating: (0/0% ) |
O.K, picture removed, honor is restored to the forum.
Sorry about the hijack. Last edited by '89SC; 09-02-2010 at 01:47 PM.. Reason: Honor |
|
|
|
|
|
#36 (permalink) |
|
-
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: pdx
Posts: 59
Thanks: 6
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader Rating: (1/100% ) |
So I'm about to replace my cracked exhaust manifold with a new oem one I got from lithia and am wondering if it's worth it to paint just the outside of it at all.
I've got most of a can of VHT flameproof header paint left that I used to paint the heatshield and am wondering if it's worth it at all to paint the manifold. Basically I can't afford to have it coated and am wondering if it's even worth my time to paint it. Would I be doing more harm than good? BTW - RuzzTMan, the side view of your car looks nice, I'd love to know what body kit that is and see some more photos. |
|
|
|
|
|
#37 (permalink) | |
|
Professional Multislacker
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 506
Thanks: 0
Thanked 17 Times in 17 Posts
My Google Map iTrader Rating: (4/100% ) |
Quote:
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#38 (permalink) | |
|
85 AW11 NA
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 51
Thanks: 25
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
iTrader Rating: (0/0% ) |
Hey oldmancolin!
Well, I'll put it like this. I always think it's better to do things the right way the first time. So, even if that means you wait until you can afford to do it, then it's worth the wait. You've already done the right thing by buying a new OEM header from Lithia. You can give that header it's best chance at a long life by ceramic coating it. I just checked mine after almost a full year since install and it's doing just fine. I still have 3 cans of VHT Flameproof paint that never got used since I opted for the professional coating. My main reasoning was, I'm no professional with a can of paint and there was no way I'd be able to evenly coat the inside of the tubing, let alone sand blast it to make it smooth. If you coat only the outside with VHT, then the inside gets abnormally hotter, which could lead to stress on the #4 header pipe over time resulting in every MR2 Mk1 owners well known problem. So, my advise is to wait a couple weeks or a month until you can afford to spend the money to do it right; get it ceramic coated inside and out. You own a piece of history right now and if you plan on keeping it a while, why not baby your baby where it's most beneficial? By the way, the guys I used are fairly close to you and they did a superb job. When you get your headers back from them, you will be very happy. I used the box Lithia shipped it in to mail it to Performance Coatings in Auburn, WA. Performance Coatings. They charged me $140 for the job and shipping (to Montana, I'm in SoCal now), and it was done in a week. So, I'm guessing shipping might be around $20 or so less for you. $120 to never deal with a header again would be worth it to me. As far as the body kit, it was on the car when I bought it two years ago. I have looked for it online and had no luck finding the kit. But, I have since decided to revert my car to it's original state and look so I removed the front and rear pieces. If you or anybody else is interested in them, I think I'd be willing to sell them for a pretty reasonable price + shipping. They need to be blasted and road dings need to be touched up with fiberglass or filler then repainted. So, let me know. Good luck with your 2! I just got yet another note on my car today with some random person asking me to sell my 2 to them. Not gonna happen! Quote:
Last edited by RuzzTMan; 09-17-2010 at 03:48 AM.. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#39 (permalink) |
|
Professional Multislacker
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 506
Thanks: 0
Thanked 17 Times in 17 Posts
My Google Map iTrader Rating: (4/100% ) |
Well, I can definitely vouch for Performance Coatings in Auburn, WA. They've done all of the coating work on my stuff (ceramic, heat dispersant, oil dispersant, etc.), and have done an excellent job.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#40 (permalink) |
|
-
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: pdx
Posts: 59
Thanks: 6
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader Rating: (1/100% ) |
Well, seeing as how I'm unemployed I don't think I'll have any extra money for professional ceramic coatings anytime soon. It came stock without any coating so it'll be fine for quite a while I'm sure. Once I've got a good job and a garage I wanna do a 20v swap anyways.
Now, If it would just quit raining here for one day I could get this done. I've had to wait to do this exhaust job for weeks. I want my low end torque back dammit! Not having a garage or even a usable driveway really sucks! I've gotta wait until the weekend to use the parking lot behind my house. |
|
|
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|