![]() |
|
|
|
#1 (permalink) |
|
custom
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: moving back to tpa fl thank god
Posts: 442
Thanks: 10
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
My Google Map iTrader Rating: (-1/0% ) |
mk1.5 camry outer cv's
does it make the rear 5 lug and if so what could i do to make the front 5 lug
|
|
|
|
|
|
#2 (permalink) |
|
Cage Fighter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Regina, Saskatchewan Canada
Posts: 165
Thanks: 0
Thanked 10 Times in 9 Posts
iTrader Rating: (1/100% ) |
No using the V6 5 spd camry outer cv's don't convert the rear to 5 lug it just converts the turbo halfshaft to your 4 lug hub, the whole camry axle would actually work minus the fact that they are about an inch to long. To convert to 5 lug you would have to modify the hubs off of a gen 2 and then run at least a 15" wheel to clear the gen 2 brakes.
|
|
|
|
| The Following User Says Thank You to mr2_mk1.5 For This Useful Post: | lucky_charms (11-09-2009) |
|
|
#3 (permalink) |
|
custom
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: moving back to tpa fl thank god
Posts: 442
Thanks: 10
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
My Google Map iTrader Rating: (-1/0% ) |
aite thanks i was searchin for this info but couldnt find it
|
|
|
|
|
|
#4 (permalink) |
|
Cage Fighter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Regina, Saskatchewan Canada
Posts: 165
Thanks: 0
Thanked 10 Times in 9 Posts
iTrader Rating: (1/100% ) |
anytime, if you got any more questions feel free to ask, me or someone will be able to answer them, also the camry trick took trial and error to figure out, I'm not sure if anyone else has done it before
|
|
|
|
|
|
#5 (permalink) |
|
custom
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: moving back to tpa fl thank god
Posts: 442
Thanks: 10
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
My Google Map iTrader Rating: (-1/0% ) |
yeah what would u say is the best way to do it
|
|
|
|
|
|
#6 (permalink) |
|
Cage Fighter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Regina, Saskatchewan Canada
Posts: 165
Thanks: 0
Thanked 10 Times in 9 Posts
iTrader Rating: (1/100% ) |
When I built mine I used the left and right motor mount brackets that speedsource sells as well as the mk1.5 conversion stainless clutch line and my reasoning with that was I couldn't build brackets as nice as the speedsource ones and as for the clutch hose I could of had one built here but it would of cost me double what speedsource sells theres at. As for everything else I cut the old mounts out and cleaned the frame rails hoisted the 3s in through the bottom of the car minus turbo and header and lifted it about 3" higher then the hubs and hand bolted on the mount brackets and lowered the assembly till the mount brackets were sitting on the rails and used a floor jack and a block of wood to jack the engine up to get the tilt to it then reposistened it so the center of the output shafts from the tranny were approximetly center with the hubs and tack welded the mounts on then I rechecked dropped the engine out and solid welded them in place and remounted the engine and built front and rear motor mounts and installed the halfshafts. As for shifter cables I bent the one shifter bracket slightly in(the one that reposistions the fork not the one that engages gears) and used my stock cables. I made a pipe that is insulated and runs across the firewall for the water inlet and the heater hoses I just ran 5/8's heater hose to and the water outlet was a straight connection I actually ended up reusing all the mk 1 hoses just had to cut one because of the pipe on the firewall and then instead of the mk2 or mk1 water filler I used a pressure tank from a VR6 volkswagon. For the wiring I got rid of the mk2 fuse relay box and used the mk1 and used a ecm pinout for a mk2 plus wiring diagram and the wiring diagram for the mk1(the best way I found to do electrical is sit down and map everything out on paper first) then I spliced the wiring together minus the fuel pump resistor and checked everything for correct placement with a multimeter(make sure everything is correct and covered, preferably soldered and heat shrinked before connecting the ecm and battery so you don't fry the ecm). The intercooler piping and placement is entirely up to personal preference, the first time around I did a huge trunk mounted intercooler with a T3/T4 turbo but now I'm running a custom water to air setup with a GT3082R. All in all it took me about three weeks to build mine and the only help I had was a buddy of mine welded my brackets solid for me and also this was the first engine swap I've ever done, so good luck and have fun
|
|
|
|
|
|
#7 (permalink) |
|
custom
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: moving back to tpa fl thank god
Posts: 442
Thanks: 10
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
My Google Map iTrader Rating: (-1/0% ) |
thanks...if u dont mind can i get a pic of ur engine bay to see how everything is set up nd i am in no way an electric guru so im goin to have mr220v do my harness to make it easier for me...what fuel pump are u using
|
|
|
|
|
|
#8 (permalink) |
|
Cage Fighter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Regina, Saskatchewan Canada
Posts: 165
Thanks: 0
Thanked 10 Times in 9 Posts
iTrader Rating: (1/100% ) |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#9 (permalink) |
|
custom
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: moving back to tpa fl thank god
Posts: 442
Thanks: 10
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
My Google Map iTrader Rating: (-1/0% ) |
cool thanks how are u gona run ya ic
|
|
|
|
|
|
#10 (permalink) |
|
Cage Fighter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Regina, Saskatchewan Canada
Posts: 165
Thanks: 0
Thanked 10 Times in 9 Posts
iTrader Rating: (1/100% ) |
I was originally running a huge yonaka core in the trunk with side feed vents to let air in and a top exit. But since the performance just wasn't there and it made my rear trunk completly unusable I've switched to a water-air setup and I have the intercooler sitting in the trunk on its end wrapped in insulation(to keep the core from heatsoaking) and the inlet and outlet are both sticking out of the trunk firewall and its pretty much a 90 degree coupler to connect my intercooler outlet to my custom built sidefeed intake manifold. As for the rest of the intercooler system I have the water lines running to the front of the car and through a radiator then into a storage tank in the frunk. I'm also working on building a fuel-water cooler. I won't be able to post pics for a while though as I have the car chopped up for exstensive structural work and body work.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#11 (permalink) |
|
custom
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: moving back to tpa fl thank god
Posts: 442
Thanks: 10
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
My Google Map iTrader Rating: (-1/0% ) |
i think i mite try to find a side mount to go into the spot where the old fan went idk did u think bout that as a place
|
|
|
|
|
|
#12 (permalink) |
|
custom
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: moving back to tpa fl thank god
Posts: 442
Thanks: 10
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
My Google Map iTrader Rating: (-1/0% ) |
u got tha battery in tha front or back
|
|
|
|
|
|
#13 (permalink) |
|
Cage Fighter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Regina, Saskatchewan Canada
Posts: 165
Thanks: 0
Thanked 10 Times in 9 Posts
iTrader Rating: (1/100% ) |
I thought about locating the intercooler there but the spot is just to cramped and I ended up putting an oil-air cooler and filter in that area(actually inside of the quarter panel) and also I'm building a high horsepower monster and needed a bigger core then that, and yes my battery is in the frunk and the power and ground are run directly to the back and the power is terminated at a central point and the ground is terminated at engine, motor mount and alternator plus several other locations. My power wire is 2 gauge and the ground is 4 gauge
|
|
|
|
|
|
#14 (permalink) |
|
custom
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: moving back to tpa fl thank god
Posts: 442
Thanks: 10
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
My Google Map iTrader Rating: (-1/0% ) |
aite cool thanks for the info
|
|
|
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|