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#1 (permalink) |
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AMP Turbo!!
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Utah
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Removing Caliper Rust
I've finally come to the decision to paint my calipers, but I have one that is covered in rust. I read on here about using sandpaper to remove it but its slow and kind of a pain. Am I just doing this wrong or is there some cool nifty trick I can use to get rid of the rust?
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#3 (permalink) |
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SAE
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Toronto
Posts: 460
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iTrader Rating: (6/100% ) |
wire brush maybe? on a drill
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#4 (permalink) |
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SAE
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Toronto
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lol u beat me to it by like 5 seconds...
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#8 (permalink) |
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AMP Turbo!!
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Utah
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Thanks will give it a try
A normal manual wire brush was just about useless on it, I'll have to find a drill one |
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#9 (permalink) |
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SAE
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Toronto
Posts: 460
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mmmm real te37s.... i wish i could afford, im prob gonna settle for rota grids
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#13 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: albany oregon
Posts: 294
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use a side grinder and wire wheel
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#14 (permalink) |
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No Skills
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Make sure holes are plugged for lines and bleeders closed etc.
Put in tank of water with a bit of Arm N Hammer washing soda, connect DC currant at 12V low amps and rust will dissolve right off. Works on any steel iron parts if you can put them in water. Now for the tricky part. I forgot if the POS goes to the part or the Neg LOL You drop a steel rod or several into the tank connected to one of the wires and the other wire goes to the part to be de-rusted. You can use a battery charger on low amps as the power source or a 12V battery and control the amps by placing a tail light bulb in the circuit on the line going to the part. Test on a rusty piece of scrap metal. Do not let the steel rods and parts touch. The resistance of the bulb controls the amp flow, higher watts is more amps. The part to be de-rusted should bubble a bit slowly. What you are doing is releasing the oxygen from the rust thus dissolving it.. Rust is just Iron Oxide. When done you should just have some minor black dust that wipes off easy or minor black stains to clean up where the rust was then primer and paint or whatever. I use this method of rust removal for allot of things that are strict tolerance like machine tools I buy used and abused or parts I am re-plating. I am thinking Neg to the part but not sure and don't have my notes around handy. Try it on a piece of scrap metal, if it gets clean that is right, if it gets rustier then reverse the wires. For mild rust over night should be good. |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
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I must be too 'old school'.
For rusted calipers I use Naval Jelly: ![]() Coat the caliper with Naval Jelly let soak for 10 minutes, then use a green 3M scritcher pad to remove built on rust.. then give it a good rinse with a garden hose. They are back to new looking and ready for a coat of caliper paint. ![]() |
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#17 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Eastern NC
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I've seen my dad use that naval jelly before on his old cars to rid of rust. seems to work pretty good. I typically use a wire wheel on my drill.
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#18 (permalink) |
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AMP Turbo!!
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Utah
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Wire wheel looked great
thanks you guys, will get some pic up once it stops raining around here |
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#19 (permalink) |
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No Skills
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Detroit, Michigan
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White mr2 you're pretty lucky to have gotten those Volks w/ your car, what size are they?
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#20 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: eastern PA
Posts: 971
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Re: Removing Caliper Rust
17x8 front 17x10 rear. Trust me I know. I couldn't afford them. I was going to get the center caps but their $110 a piece. I can think of a lot of stuff to get for my 2 for $440 bucks. Lol!
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