My New Suspension Parts Have Arrived :)

[Poohhbear9044]

Originally Posted by poopeeroo

do all tein s springs come with that black sleeve wrap on the springs? any clue where i can buy them separately?

The Teins come with it already fitted, i have no idea if you can buy them seperately or not but I have heard of people using very thin walled piping slit then clipped over the spring coils.

Bob

[eckoman_pdx]

Originally Posted by Poohhbear9044

On very smooth roads the Teins were fantastic but here in the UK smooth roads are very rare so I always felt I was one step away from losing my teeth.
The Eibachs however are much more compliant initially, so soak up the bumps nicely but due to their progressive nature stiffen up when loaded in the corners. I prefer the Eibachs for that reason.

Bob

I know this is old, but I wanted to say something on this.

Tein S-Techs are progressive rate springs, as is the Pro-Kit. In fact, all aftermarket Lowering Springs are progressive. If you want Liner Rate, spring with OEM springs or go with Coilovers.

Anyways, the S-Techs have a much softer initial rate, so they'll compress more before they hit the stiffer part of the progressive rate when you go over bumps and such. It can lead to more of a "shock," as the springs compress up more due to the softer intial rate and then hit the stiffer part and bam, you get that bone jarring feel.

The Pro-Kit is stiffer with a stiffer initial rate, which gives it more compliance on the road, as every little bump doesn't compress the heck out of the shock every time you go over a bump or un-even road. The stiffer initial rates are the reason the Pro-Kit and TRD ride more compliant initially. The S-Techs are harsher intially due to the fact they have too soft of a progressive spring rate, especially for that low of a drop. The result is a spring that compresses too much every time you go over a minor bump, because the softer initial rates can't prevent it from doing so.

[pinoy_dorifto]

Originally Posted by eckoman_pdx

I know this is old, but I wanted to say something on this.

Tein S-Techs are progressive rate springs, as is the Pro-Kit. In fact, all aftermarket Lowering Springs are progressive. If you want Liner Rate, spring with OEM springs or go with Coilovers.

Anyways, the S-Techs have a much softer initial rate, so they'll compress more before they hit the stiffer part of the progressive rate when you go over bumps and such. It can lead to more of a "shock," as the springs compress up more due to the softer intial rate and then hit the stiffer part and bam, you get that bone jarring feel.

The Pro-Kit is stiffer with a stiffer initial rate, which gives it more compliance on the road, as every little bump doesn't compress the heck out of the shock every time you go over a bump or un-even road. The stiffer initial rates are the reason the Pro-Kit and TRD ride more compliant initially. The S-Techs are harsher intially due to the fact they have too soft of a progressive spring rate, especially for that low of a drop. The result is a spring that compresses too much every time you go over a minor bump, because the softer initial rates can't prevent it from doing so.

Very nice and clear explenation!!! people whose looking for owering springs should read what you wrote!

Well, I ended up buying a set of Tein S-tecs, the car does look good and rides good on flat pavements but when you live in L.A., and daily drive on the 10 freeway, its a whole day of head banging! lol.. Someday I'll switch to TRD springs if its still available or the Eibach Pro kits and match them with Bilstein shocks, new bushings then call it a day.

[switchlanez]

this write-up helped my installation immensely! i also had a BGB handy but it fails to explain little intricacies pointed out here.

instead of unscrewing the brake lines at the hub and threading them through the mount then having to bleed them, some peeople swear by cutting the mounts then tie wrapping them to your new struts.

i opted to use my brake mounts the way they were intended and had a helluva time bleeding the lines. when bleeding, make sure your assistant mashes HARD on the brakes especially when bleeding the rears - those being furthest from the reservoir require a MASSIVE amount of pressure to force a stream out. otherwise you may be sucking more air into your brake lines.

[Davis]

Originally Posted by switchlanez

some peeople swear by cutting the mounts then tie wrapping them to your new struts.

Since you have seen how the brake line bracket looks. All you have to do is cut a slit into it and bend each side out of the way, and then re-align when you have the new strut in. No need for zippy ties!

[StefanMR2]

Hey guys I just got my mr2 yesterday and it really needs its struts replaced.When I bought the mr2 the original owner gave me new struts I was just wondering how diffcult it is to replace struts by myself(and 2 other friends)and how long does it take to replace them. I went to two diffrentf auto mechanics today and they said they would charge me around 300$ to put them on for me. I wanted to get your guys opinions should I replace the struts my self, or get the mechanics to do it, I really dont want to pay 300 though.

Parts given to me are:
2 KYB Gas MacPherson STRUT REPLACEMENT
2 KYB GAS SHOCK ABSORBER Excel-G