Sheared Bleed Valve, Driver Front

Sh0ty · 06-04-2009, 03:14 PM

I bled the brakes on both rear calipers and the front passenger side, but when I went to do the driver's side in front, I sheared the bleed valve right off. 16 years of rust must have caught up with it (friggin P.O. probably never even heard of brake fluid). Anyway, I was wondering if it was possible to remove the sheared valve and replace it. The techs at Midas told me that I'd need new front calipers to fix it. I just finished a fairly pricey strut job, and calipers weren't anywhere on my to do list, so any cost effective options or suggestions are welcome.

Thanks, and sorry for starting so many threads, but I searched and didn't find anything on this.

Luni · 06-04-2009, 03:20 PM

Ive had luck getting an easyout and removing the sheared valve.

If you cant get it out with an easyout, you can remove the caliper, drill it out, get a different valve from a different car, measure the thread pitch, get a tap/die set, retap for the new one and reuse same caliper.

Otherwise, yeah, you need to replace it.

Sh0ty · 06-04-2009, 03:28 PM

Is the bleed valve universally threaded for Toyota cars or is it MR2 specific?

Luni · 06-04-2009, 03:34 PM

To be honest, I dont know. Id imagine a Celica one would work.

Wheelman_13 · 06-04-2009, 04:34 PM

You can get a remanufactured (read "good as new") caliper from Rockauto (or probably your preferred local parts chain) for ~$30-$40.

You can get a bleed valve from the stealership for probably a few bucks.

If you can't remove the broken valve, I would prefer to replace the caliper vs. drilling and trying to match thread pitch on a larger valve. If you mess it up just a little, it could really end badly.

Sh0ty · 06-04-2009, 06:56 PM

Yeah, I think I'm going to go with a new caliper. I was told that I should replace the calipers in sets, so if I do driver's front, I do passenger's front as well. The inlet on the stock calipers is M10x1 right? Also is this an easier job or something I should leave to the shops? I didn't have any issues with my suspension job until I sheared this bleed valve.

Wheelman_13 · 06-04-2009, 08:04 PM

(Assuming you did it right) if you can do suspension, you can replace a couple of brake calipers.

Just make sure you use a copper washer on both sides of the banjo fitting (where the fluid enters the caliper), and don't over-torque stuff (see book for proper specs). Bleed the system real well once both are on, and you should be good.

Not to make you spend more money or anything, but if you were going to go to an SS line, this would be a good time since you will be having to bleed most of the system anyway.

06-04-2009, 03:14 PM	#1 (permalink)
Sh0ty Armchair Racer Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Novi, MI Posts: 1,273 Thanks: 22 Thanked 57 Times in 54 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (3/100% )	Sheared Bleed Valve, Driver Front I bled the brakes on both rear calipers and the front passenger side, but when I went to do the driver's side in front, I sheared the bleed valve right off. 16 years of rust must have caught up with it (friggin P.O. probably never even heard of brake fluid). Anyway, I was wondering if it was possible to remove the sheared valve and replace it. The techs at Midas told me that I'd need new front calipers to fix it. I just finished a fairly pricey strut job, and calipers weren't anywhere on my to do list, so any cost effective options or suggestions are welcome. Thanks, and sorry for starting so many threads, but I searched and didn't find anything on this.

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06-04-2009, 03:20 PM	#2 (permalink)
Luni Cage Fighter Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Salt Lake City Utah Posts: 3,213 Thanks: 10 Thanked 130 Times in 110 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (8/100% )	Ive had luck getting an easyout and removing the sheared valve. If you cant get it out with an easyout, you can remove the caliper, drill it out, get a different valve from a different car, measure the thread pitch, get a tap/die set, retap for the new one and reuse same caliper. Otherwise, yeah, you need to replace it.

06-04-2009, 03:28 PM	#3 (permalink)
Sh0ty Armchair Racer Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Novi, MI Posts: 1,273 Thanks: 22 Thanked 57 Times in 54 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (3/100% )	Is the bleed valve universally threaded for Toyota cars or is it MR2 specific?

06-04-2009, 03:34 PM	#4 (permalink)
Luni Cage Fighter Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Salt Lake City Utah Posts: 3,213 Thanks: 10 Thanked 130 Times in 110 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (8/100% )	To be honest, I dont know. Id imagine a Celica one would work.

06-04-2009, 04:34 PM	#5 (permalink)
Wheelman_13 I need an adapter Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Knoxville, TN Posts: 275 Thanks: 15 Thanked 9 Times in 9 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	You can get a remanufactured (read "good as new") caliper from Rockauto (or probably your preferred local parts chain) for ~$30-$40. You can get a bleed valve from the stealership for probably a few bucks. If you can't remove the broken valve, I would prefer to replace the caliper vs. drilling and trying to match thread pitch on a larger valve. If you mess it up just a little, it could really end badly.

06-04-2009, 06:56 PM	#6 (permalink)
Sh0ty Armchair Racer Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Novi, MI Posts: 1,273 Thanks: 22 Thanked 57 Times in 54 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (3/100% )	Yeah, I think I'm going to go with a new caliper. I was told that I should replace the calipers in sets, so if I do driver's front, I do passenger's front as well. The inlet on the stock calipers is M10x1 right? Also is this an easier job or something I should leave to the shops? I didn't have any issues with my suspension job until I sheared this bleed valve.

06-04-2009, 08:04 PM	#7 (permalink)
Wheelman_13 I need an adapter Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Knoxville, TN Posts: 275 Thanks: 15 Thanked 9 Times in 9 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	(Assuming you did it right) if you can do suspension, you can replace a couple of brake calipers. Just make sure you use a copper washer on both sides of the banjo fitting (where the fluid enters the caliper), and don't over-torque stuff (see book for proper specs). Bleed the system real well once both are on, and you should be good. Not to make you spend more money or anything, but if you were going to go to an SS line, this would be a good time since you will be having to bleed most of the system anyway.