ARP Lug stud install

[HarrisRacing]

I installed some ARP lug studs (from Twos R Us - Parts for Toyotas from Club MR2) on the front of my 1991 turbo gen3 powered racecar last night in an effort to get back some more of the camber I had lost with the wider tires and coilover setup. I have a quick writeup of how to do it followed by my reasons why I needed them.

How to install (on front only because I haven't done the back yet):

Tools required:
17mm box-end wrench.
hammer
lug nut socket (19mm or 21mm or special tool) and breaker bar.
short 1/2" drive sockets to space out lug nut/stud (this varies, be creative).

Procedure:
1) break front wheel lug nuts loose (don't completely remove, just loosen them).
2) jack up and support front of car.
3) remove wheel
4) loosen top brake caliper bolt (17mm wrench)
5) remove bottom brake caliper bolt (17mm wrench)
6) rotate brake caliper up and slightly out of the way (pivot around top bolt).
7) rotate hub so lug stud to be replaced is half-way to 75% of the way up the brake caliper. You can stick your finger on back to feel the head of the stud.
8) screw an old lugnut 5-7 threads onto the stud (if broken, us a punch).
9) hit lugnut with hammer and knock the stud loose from the hub.
10) unscrew the lugnut from the loosened stud.
11) clean the hole in the hub with a small bottle brush or however you choose.
12) push new stud in from the back
13) from the front put spacers (I used a socket) and then screw on lugnut
14) rotate caliper back into place.
15) have someone mash brake pedal and then tighten the lut nut to pull the stud into the press-fit hole. Tighten until it bottoms out (not more than 95 ft-lbs.)
16) reinstall brake caliper bottom bolt and tighten them up.
17) reinstall wheel. TORQUE LUG NUTS ALWAYS!
18) enjoy!

My reason for needing longer / racing studs:
I run the Tein SS coilovers w/ top plates and also run a 7.5" wide mustang wheel on front with a 225 racetire. In order to do this I had to drop the top camber plate all the way in (max negative) and then use the smallest Toyota crash bolt on the top hole to pry the wheel back away from the car (stand it up straight). This allowed me to run the bigger rubber up front, but I don't think it even had 1 degree of negative camber in this setup, so it was kind of a moot point. I was picking up tire slag from 3-4" on the INSIDE of the tire. Also driving the car made this apparent as I would have to lift to get the car to rotate in lots of conditions (especially high-speed 100+mph steady-state turns).

Anyway, I put the lug studs on and now run a 1/4" spacer up front and was able to loosen the crash bolts and drop the spindle all the way back down to get to 2.5-3 deg of negative camber up front now (with the same tire-to-coil spacing) AND the tire now fits under the fender (it would rub outside before) so i am going to drop the car a little more and re-corner-weight it and see how it does.

yes I could have bought very specially offset 16" wheels, but they were hard to find and expensive when I did find them. I had the 1/4" spacers, and these studs were a lot cheaper than getting new wheels - plus other wheels that I have in the shop will now be able to work with the spacer in the back as well (some 17 x 9 I have laying around will go on the back easily now). Anyway, just thought I would try to help if anyone wanted to know how to do it. I am assuming the back are the same, but we'll see.

[kbrew8991]

do you know if those studs will fit the back hubs too?

I need to get them on all 4 corners due to thread engagement issues with the wheels I siwtched to, but I'm being lazy on researching it...

[HarrisRacing]

Same studs for all 4. Should work fine.

Yeah, if you have any kind of spacers, install these soon. Not worth fisher price my first wreck 2 for you.

Patrick

[Sylvan]

Nice. I've had my eye on these for the future for when I might be running spacers on the track.

[kbrew8991]

not running spacers, its just that these stock studs are really short, maybe 8 turns of engagement with the Millinea / TDR wheel combo I'm running. The stud doesn't even come close to the open end top of the lug... sketchy