How-To: MKII Auto Window Up Mod (Very Detailed with Lots of Pictures)

[eckoman_pdx]

We will be modifying the MR2 Driver’s Side Power Window Control Unit so that it has an “Auto Up” Function as well as an “Auto Down” function.

The Driver’s side Window Control PCB has all the connections on the board for this. However, there is no diode installed, will not reach high enough to allow this function.

First, we will modify the driver’s window switch so that it can reach the higher position. Next, we will prep the board for the diode install. Last, we will install and solder the diode.

The first thing you’ll need to get an IN 4005 Rectifier Diode (Radio Shack PN 276-1104). Here is a picture of what it looks like:


By eckoman_pdx, shot with KODAK C310 DIGITAL CAMERA at 2010-03-14

After you have the diode, gather all the following tools and parts.

• Soldering Iron
• Solder
• Flathead Screwdriver
• Phillips Head Screwdriver
• Wire Cutters
• A small bowl to keep the screws in when they are removed
• An IN 4005 Rectifier Diode (from Radio Shack or somewhere else) Radio Shack PN: 276-1104

Also, if you do not know how to Solder, please read the links at the end of this tutorial before attempting this mod project.

Once you have all the parts, we can proceed to start the project.

For the first step, you’ll need to remove the window and door lock control unit from the door. To do this, you will need to place a blunt tip object, like a Flathead Screwdriver, in between the FRONT of the unit and the armrest, as shown in the picture below.


By eckoman_pdx, shot with KODAK C310 DIGITAL CAMERA at 2010-03-14

Pry the front of the unit up, and then pull it out towards the front of the vehicle a bit so the back end comes loose. Once the back end is loose pull it out. Once it’s out, it should look like below. You can see in the picture below there are 2 sets of plugs to remove


By eckoman_pdx, shot with KODAK C310 DIGITAL CAMERA at 2010-03-14

The picture below shows the 2 plugs you will need to remove. To remove them, push down on the locking tabs. The top plug in the picture (the one towards the front of the unit) is removed by pulling straight down with the tab pressed in.

The lower plug in the picture (the plug towards the rear of the unit) pulls straight out like a normal plug, when the tab is depressed.
Once the Plugs are Loose and removed, you can lift the control unit and remove it from the vehicle.


By eckoman_pdx, shot with KODAK C310 DIGITAL CAMERA at 2010-03-14


By eckoman_pdx, shot with KODAK C310 DIGITAL CAMERA at 2010-03-14

Next, we will have to remove the black top plastic cover from window switch/door lock housing so we can trim the driver’s window switch. To do this, set the control unit with its top face down on a table, and its bottom side facing up.

There are 3 screws you need to remove to separate the top cover from the control unit. Remove these 3 screws with a Phillips head screwdriver, and place them in the blow. Then pull the top piece (the part you see when it in installed in the car) away from the rest of the unit.


By eckoman_pdx, shot with KODAK C310 DIGITAL CAMERA at 2010-03-14


By eckoman_pdx, shot with KODAK C310 DIGITAL CAMERA at 2010-03-14

Now grab the window switch/door lock control unit. Look at the back side of the switch (as in the picture below). You’ll notice there are 2 tabs coming off each switch, and the drivers switch has longer tabs. Trim the two tabs on the driver’s window switch with a razor blade or exacto knife so that that they are even with the passenger window switch.


By eckoman_pdx, shot with KODAK C310 DIGITAL CAMERA at 2010-03-14

Once you have trimmed the 2 tabs on the driver’s window switch, they should be even with the 2 tabs on the passenger window switch, as shown below. You should know be able to pull the driver’s switch up further than before, until you hear a “click.” You should also notice that the switch is now even with the passenger window switch if you pull them both up. and it should go a little further into the “click” position.” If you cannot do this, then trim a little bit more and recheck.


By eckoman_pdx, shot with KODAK C310 DIGITAL CAMERA at 2010-03-14


By eckoman_pdx, shot with KODAK C310 DIGITAL CAMERA at 2010-03-14

Next, we need to separate pieces again, to access the PCB Board below. Remove the 4 Phillips head screws on the topside of the control unit, so you can separate the black piece from the bottom portion. Place the screws in the bowl.

Before you separate the pieces, it’s also a good idea to remove the square “window lock” button from the stalk it attaches to. It will make things easy to put back together, as you won’t have to re-install the stalk.


By eckoman_pdx, shot with KODAK C310 DIGITAL CAMERA at 2010-03-14


By eckoman_pdx, shot with KODAK C310 DIGITAL CAMERA at 2010-03-14

After the pieces are separated, it should look like the picture below. Also, there are 4 pieces you need to remove so they don't fall and get lost. Remove these 4 pieces (marked in the picture) and place them in the bowl


By eckoman_pdx, shot with KODAK C310 DIGITAL CAMERA at 2010-03-14


By eckoman_pdx, shot with KODAK C310 DIGITAL CAMERA at 2010-03-14

Once the black piece is separated from the lower portion and the 4 metal pieces are removed and placed in the bowl with the PCB Board, you must remove the clear plastic cover which covers the board.

There are 2 locking tabs per side, marked in the pictures below. Use a Flathead Screwdriver or something similar, so you can remove the cover by pulling it over the locking tabs.


By eckoman_pdx, shot with KODAK C310 DIGITAL CAMERA at 2010-03-14


By eckoman_pdx, shot with KODAK C310 DIGITAL CAMERA at 2010-03-14

It should look like this, once the clear plastic cover has been removed


By eckoman_pdx, shot with KODAK C310 DIGITAL CAMERA at 2010-03-14

Next, gather the diode you purchased earlier


By eckoman_pdx, shot with KODAK C310 DIGITAL CAMERA at 2010-03-14

Note the Cathode Side is the side with the stripe, and the Anode side is the side without. It is VERY IMPORTANT to know the difference. You DO NOT want to install it the wrong direction, or it will not work.

Next, we’ll need to create 2 small holes on the board where the diode will fit throw. The board is already set up for the diode. It is even marked. We just need to make the holes in the proper spot. If you look at the top of the PCB board, you’ll see the board is marked.


By eckoman_pdx, shot with KODAK C310 DIGITAL CAMERA at 2010-03-14

You will place the diode here, with the CATHODE (Striped) side facing towards the INSIDE of the board. You can see in the picture, the symbol with a triangle and stripe. The stripe means that is the side the cathode should be on.

Now turn the board over to the backside, and you should see to silver spots where the diode SHOULD come through. Take a small, thin object (or the arms of the diode itself) and poke a small hole the size of the diode arms through these 2 spots.


By eckoman_pdx, shot with KODAK C310 DIGITAL CAMERA at 2010-03-14


By eckoman_pdx, shot with KODAK C310 DIGITAL CAMERA at 2010-03-14

Once you have poked the holes, get ready to install the diode.

First, prep the diode for install. Bend the diode arms at a 90 degree angle on each side of the diode. Next, with wire cutters, trim the arms shorter, as shown in the inset of the picture below. I left the cathode side a little longer than the anode side for this part. This will allow you to fit the diode into place with needle nose pillars, and not get the diode sides mixed up.

Next, test fit the Diode from the backside, to make sure it fits correctly. From the backside, fit the diode into the 2 small holes you created. Make sure the Cathode is towards the middle of the board. Look and make sure the 2 holes line up properly, and that the diode fits in. Also, look on the topside of the board to make sure the arms are poking through the correct place. The longer arm (the cathode) should be towards the middle of the board.


By eckoman_pdx, shot with KODAK C310 DIGITAL CAMERA at 2010-03-14

Once the diode has been prepped and test fitted, it’s time to install it from the topside. Take a pair of needle nose pillars, and grab the diode with them. Then, fit it through the holes with needle nose pillars. Make sure the cathode side is facing the middle of the PCB.


By eckoman_pdx, shot with KODAK C310 DIGITAL CAMERA at 2010-03-14

As mentioned, make sure the diode is installed correctly. The Cathode should be towards the middle of the board, and the diode arms should come through the holes you created as shown.


By eckoman_pdx, shot with KODAK C310 DIGITAL CAMERA at 2010-03-14


By eckoman_pdx, shot with KODAK C310 DIGITAL CAMERA at 2010-03-14


By eckoman_pdx, shot with KODAK C310 DIGITAL CAMERA at 2010-03-14

Once the diode is installed from the topside of the PCB (making sure the cathode side is towards the middle), bend the diode arms at a 45 degree angle. This will lock the diode in place so that it stays put when you are soldering the diode to the board.


By eckoman_pdx, shot with KODAK C310 DIGITAL CAMERA at 2010-03-14

Once the diode arms have been locked in place and you are 100% sure it is facing the correct direction (Cathode Side – Striped Side towards middle), heat up your soldering iron and then solder the diode in place. If you don’t know how to solder, please read the links at the end of this tutorial. The diode has been soldered in place in the picture below.


By eckoman_pdx, shot with KODAK C310 DIGITAL CAMERA at 2010-03-14

After the diode is soldered in place, cut off the excess length from the diode arms with wire cutters.


By eckoman_pdx, shot with KODAK C310 DIGITAL CAMERA at 2010-03-14


By eckoman_pdx, shot with KODAK C310 DIGITAL CAMERA at 2010-03-14

Once the diode arms are trimmed, you are ready to put everything back together and re-install the control unit into the car.

Here are some good like for How to Solder. If you do not know how to Solder, please read these first and get comfortable soldering before attempting this project.

How To Solder - Soldering Tutorial

Soldering Guide

[Sh0ty]

Gordaen's Toyota MR2 Modifications - Window Auto-Up Function

I think that guides uses a few less steps. I followed that one a few years ago and it's still working great!

Thanks for the really good thorough guide, should address any questions the other one might've missed

[eckoman_pdx]

Gordaen's Toyota MR2 Modifications - Window Auto-Up Function

I think that guides uses a few less steps. I followed that one a few years ago and it's still working great!

Thanks for the really good thorough guide, should address any questions the other one might've missed

I saw that guide, but I didn't like it at all. It inspired me, but that was about it.

It's not a case of that guide having less steps, it was far less detailed. It didn't cover how to get the control unit apart, nor does it cover how much of the switch to cut off, or which pieces to remove and set aside once it's apart, etc. It's the same process. It's not less steps, just FAR less detailed instructions.

Also, I still think soldering the diode to the backside (which they suggested) is a BAD idea (my opinion, yours may differ). If you're soldering iron gets too close to the diode and screws it up, you'll need to un-solder it and get a new one. There is a reason stuff is soldered from the backside with the diode/resistor on the topside of a PCB board.

I covered every single step. and took a picture of each step down to the smallest detail. From removing a screw to the solder steps. That's how I do things. I tried to not leave things for people to guess. I like detail and hate non-detailed how to's. I hate it when instructions and how to's are not detailed. This was...so I made my own. There's nothing wrong with more than one write up.

[Cjung]

Very nice write-up.

I want to try this over spring break now.

THank you

[Sh0ty]

I completely agree, didn't know if you knew that one existed. I felt most of it was self explanatory, but you're absolutely right about the way it was soldered. If I had to do it again, I'd go about it your way.

[cyberwolf]

did not all of the power window mr2s come with this feature?

[eckoman_pdx]

Very nice write-up.

I want to try this over spring break now.

THank you

You are very welcome Good Luck with it!!

did not all of the power window mr2s come with this feature?

To my knowledge (I could be wrong), none of the MKII MR2's came with a window auto up feature (at least in the US). They came with a window auto down feature though.

[PHOENIX]

Very cool mod. I have seen the one previously but i felt it opened up many unanswered questions. I think with this I will have no problem doing this mod Thanks James!

[eckoman_pdx]

Very cool mod. I have seen the one previously but i felt it opened up many unanswered questions. I think with this I will have no problem doing this mod Thanks James!

You're very welcome Dave!! I'm always glad to help out follow MR2 enthusiasts!!

[datguydeni]

Great writeup. Probably will do this over spring break hopefully next week.
thanks

[cyberwolf]

Quote:
Originally Posted by cyberwolf View Post
did not all of the power window mr2s come with this feature?
To my knowledge (I could be wrong), none of the MKII MR2's came with a window auto up feature (at least in the US). They came with a window auto down feature though.

Mine has both auto up and auto down.... >_> could be possible that the previous owner did this mod, but i doubt it cause other wise my windows probably wouldn't have worked lol. (somehow he managed to mess up the power mirrors)

[Cjung]

Just finished this. Started on spring break, but my gun solder had too big of a tip so i kinda lagged.

The cutting part is hard to cut it straight when you first try, so practicing would be best. If you screw up cutting the tabs shorter, you can always go to the junkyard and pick out another switch cover.

Again tahkn you , eckoman_pdx, for a great write up.

[eckoman_pdx]

Just finished this. Started on spring break, but my gun solder had too big of a tip so i kinda lagged.

The cutting part is hard to cut it straight when you first try, so practicing would be best. If you screw up cutting the tabs shorter, you can always go to the junkyard and pick out another switch cover.

Again tahkn you , eckoman_pdx, for a great write up.

You are very welcome! I'm always glad to help!! Using a brand new straight edge razor blade or brand new utility knife/box knife blade helps with the cutting. I scored the area first, and then cut slowly along the score.

I'm glad you got it done! Enjoy the new auto up feature

[Maruki-kun]

BTW, Macro settings are your friend...

I'm more blown away by your replacement tab for the switches them selves., I want one now.

[Cjung]

I tried to mark it with a razor and cut it with my dremel. but that thing cuts so fast... haha

[Maruki-kun]

best bet with a dremel is to shave it off with the cutting disc, not actually cut it.

[eckoman_pdx]

best bet with a dremel is to shave it off with the cutting disc, not actually cut it.

Yeah, I agree. A dremel cuts really fast, so shaving it would be better.

Honestly, a dremel is complete overkill though. The plastic cuts really easy by hand with a brand new sharp utility/box knife blade (or a straight edge razor blade). Once you score the plastic, it's really easy to cut it by hand along that line with a brand new blade.

[SW20MR2]

Well I know im probably bumping an old thread back to life. But i tried to do this today and safe to say it was a total Pain in the A**. For one the diode was complete hell. It took me about an hour to get it in right. Then 30 min to solder it (first time lol)then just my luck the spring in the window lock switch popped out. Which took about 45 min of reworking it to get every thing back in. Now i just have to hope this thing works when i install it tomorrow. Thnx again eckoman, but for anyone planning on trying this. I suggest you have alot of patience because I came this |--| close to smashing mine to bits out of frustration.

[SlyBee]

I had a hard time getting the diode in so I just said 'screw it' and put it upside down. Works fine.

[eckoman_pdx]

I had a hard time getting the diode in so I just said 'screw it' and put it upside down. Works fine.

Use needle nose pliers with a very LONG nose. You'll have a hell of a time getting it in with short nose needle nose or without needle nose pliers. It only took me about 30 seconds to get it in the correct spot when I did it. I cut the legs to a shorter length so the Diode would fit, and I then used the needle nose pliers to get it into place. Once I got one leg through, I bent it at a 45 degree angle to lock it in, That made the other leg a piece of cake.

I've never been a fan of installing it upside down. Electrically, it'll work fine as long as you put the diode in the correct direction. A diode is a one way valve, so of course it'll flow the correct direction under the correct conditions if it's installed the correct direction. My main problem with a diode on the back of the board is the diode is close to the heat of the soldering iron, on the same side as the tracer electrical lines on the back of the PCB board, etc. There are a few reasons I decided to install it the correct way instead of upside down, like maybe others have down.

I'm honestly not sure why it was so hard for you guys to put the diode in the correct way. As I said, I did it in very short order (not kidding, less than a minute) first try using needle nose pliers. You need something with a long, thin nose so you can grab the diode and position it correctly after you've trimmed the legs so they are shorter (so the diode can actually fit under there). You don't want to trim them too short at first, just short enough to allow it to clear when you grab it with the pliers and move it under there. Once you get it through the holes, you bend the legs, solder and then cut them short.

Also, since people have tried to cut the tabs with a dremel, seriously...just use a brand new sharp straight edge razor blade/utilizing knife. It'll score it nicely, and that should allow you to cut it very easy with the blade or snap it off.