Alpine Head unit and Alpine Components, will they fit?

[ju5tchi11in]

I was looking for something that will be decent sound quality without breaking the bank. As I priced these items it seems it will be roughly $300-$350 for these items and I need some suggestions for replacing the 5 1/2" factory subwoofer around $70-$90. Thanks for the input.

Yes I know there are many options that are more expensive but that is not the direction I am going. Again thank you in advance for the input.


Head Unit: Alpine CDE-133BT



Front Speakers: Alpine 6 1/2" 2-Way components SPS-610C



Rear Speakers: Alpine 4" 2-Way SPS-410

[Ocatvios]

all those look great. one thing to mention (at least in my opinion) is the rears are not really needed. the size of the cabin works great with just door speakers and tweeters.

as far as a sub goes look for one in a truck box, most of the single sub truck boxes will fit behind either seat comfortably (as will both ttops)

you mentioned replacing the stock sub and thats what i went with. not sure about putting one in the stock location, never done it

also if you havnt already found this GREAT resource check it out

MKII Toyota MR2 Audio How-To

personal tip - remove all 3 of the factory amps if you have a model with the premium sound (located where the seat belts go on both sides) and run ALL NEW WIRES, power,ground speakers, etc. makes a huge difference for cheap and you dont have to deal with toyotas wiring job.

good luck!

[ju5tchi11in]

all those look great. one thing to mention (at least in my opinion) is the rears are not really needed. the size of the cabin works great with just door speakers and tweeters.

as far as a sub goes look for one in a truck box, most of the single sub truck boxes will fit behind either seat comfortably (as will both ttops)

you mentioned replacing the stock sub and thats what i went with. not sure about putting one in the stock location, never done it

also if you havnt already found this GREAT resource check it out

MKII Toyota MR2 Audio How-To

personal tip - remove all 3 of the factory amps if you have a model with the premium sound (located where the seat belts go on both sides) and run ALL NEW WIRES, power,ground speakers, etc. makes a huge difference for cheap and you dont have to deal with toyotas wiring job.

good luck!

Thanks.

I have no prior experience wiring or car stereo stuff so hope I can learn a bit by the time all this happens.

I have a 91, not sure if it had the premium sound installed.

Clarification, so you did not replace the 5 1/2" stock subwoofer, but just disconnected it and placed a subwoofer in a truck box enclosure and wired that in?

More so the question will those fit with it's depths which I did not include...

Also, will i need another amp to power the door and rear speakers besides the head unit and the stock amp(s)?

So I read some stuff about wattage and rms ratings and all that and pairing the correct wattage amp to the max rms rating for the speakers or in conjunction with them. So here is what I got if I'm correctish:

6 1/2" door speakers are rated at peak 240 watts and rms 80 watts
4" rear speakers are rated at peak 140 watts and rms 45 watts

Head unit can push 4 channels at peak 50 watts and rms 18 watts

I can use the head unit as a 2 channel amp to power the rear speakers so rms 36 watts to the rears, is that enough?

I'll need a rms 150-200 watt amp to run at 80% efficiency so like 120-160 watts 2 channels so 60-80 watts to the door speakers and I should be all set?? Something like this: Alpine MRP-F250 4-channel car amplifier 40 watts RMS x 4 at Crutchfield.com

Since that amp can run at 100 watts rms x 2 bridged outputs at 4 ohms then I can just use 1 channel for each door speaker since they are also 4 ohms. Is that to much power for door speakers? Man this stuff is a bit confusing at the moment. Maybe it'll be clearer once I sleep on it.
If the sub is self powered then I should have an efficient running and decent sounding system?

[ju5tchi11in]

What about powered subs? I believe this is a 3 or 4 year old model



Sounds like it will be a lot of bass I'm not looking for that much, said it has the equivalent of two 10" subs. Hmmm 2 x 10" might be much to much bass not to mention it weighs 47 lbs. The reason I ask is I saw it on craigslist for $75

Alpine PLT-5 LAT Subwoofer System Powered truck-style subwoofer at Crutchfield.com

[te51levin]

You do not need any sort of dash kit or install kit to install an aftermarket head unit. You do obviously need an adapter harness for wiring, but the physical install does not require any modification.

The stock radio brackets will accept an aftermarket single-DIN or double-DIN head unit. If you remove the trim ring from the head unit (they just pop off) it will fit perfectly in the dash trim panel's opening, so there is no need to modify anything.

You are probably aware of this, but I wanted to mention it anyway. So many people end up with hacked dashes and sloppy installs because they assume that they have to use a kit or cut the car up to install something that literally just bolts in.

[ju5tchi11in]

Thanks Aaron. There is actually one already in there the volume knob is falling off and the speakers sound like crap. The 2 times I used them lol.

Any insight on the correct speaker and wattage required to juice them up properly? Hmm I'm sure there is some sore of car audio simple plug in calculator someone created do some more googling.

[Ocatvios]

Generally speaking if you doing a personal audio set up then pick a brand you like and a price point and you will be good to go. The head unit will have plenty of power to drive your speakers. But if your going to re wire your car anyway it would hurt to buy an amp with sub and speaker outs. 3 or 5 channel. My setup is a 12in kenwood 12in with a 300w amp and it's not overwhelming. Proper tuning will go a long way in that regard. I got both for $100 on Craigslist too so a good deal.

[Ocatvios]

Also on those factory amps. If they are there, remove them. Last thin you want to do it send a powered signal to an amp, that will power it again. Results is horrible sound quality and greatly increase the risk of blowing your speakers, not to mention a spark/fire risk to some degree

[ju5tchi11in]

Generally speaking if you doing a personal audio set up then pick a brand you like and a price point and you will be good to go. The head unit will have plenty of power to drive your speakers. But if your going to re wire your car anyway it would hurt to buy an amp with sub and speaker outs. 3 or 5 channel. My setup is a 12in kenwood 12in with a 300w amp and it's not overwhelming. Proper tuning will go a long way in that regard. I got both for $100 on Craigslist too so a good deal.

What you are saying seems contradictory to what is splattered across the internet. Basically the head unit will not have enough power to power the fronts efficiently.

It seems that I should have an amp that is rated higher than the speakers max rms wattage so that it does not have to work at peak rate and can provide clean sound without clipping which will inevitably degrade the speakers and ruin them.

I am thinking a self powered type sub, something small like a bazooka tube. That way I only have to worry about powering the fronts with the amp and the rears with the head unit. I'll look more into what the hell I need to do to rewire the car, that'll be interesting.

[Ocatvios]

What the internet says is right for the most part. but unless your one of those people who buy the $600 HDMI cable because your tv just looks that much better then you wont notice a difference in your front speakers being powered by the HU. its always a matter of opinion though and budget. if you have the money then spend it but if your on a budget then power the speakers with the HU and the sub with an amp/powered sub

[Ocatvios]

im on my phone so i do this "double comment" thing alot

rewiring is really simple if you break it down. if youve set up a pair of computer speakers or a boombox then you can rewire the mr2

draw a picture if it helps (i did) with the HU, sub, speakers, battery, ground (earth), etc. and connect them with lines(wires). then follow that and hide the wires when your done. the battery is directly behind where the head unit goes so it makes the job much easier, and if you want to skip rewiring the door then you can tap the door speaker wire where your engine lid release handle is (at least on my car with the premium sound)

[ju5tchi11in]

Did not update this one thread but I purchased the SPS-610c for $76 and the SPS-410 $46 and got a MRP-F240 an older amp for $50

Have not bought the head unit yet or the sub I might wait on the sub until I find a good one on the craigslist no rush on that I suppose.

I was reading the install thread you posted the link to thanks for that. Shows the different grommets to use to thread the wires through.

[Ocatvios]

Sounds like you got a good deal then. Ya that How-To is really helpful. Let me know if you have any questions regarding the install. I did it not to long ago so its still fresh.

[dagg92]

Did not update this one thread but I purchased the SPS-610c for $76 and the SPS-410 $46 and got a MRP-F240 an older amp for $50

Have not bought the head unit yet or the sub I might wait on the sub until I find a good one on the craigslist no rush on that I suppose.

I was reading the install thread you posted the link to thanks for that. Shows the different grommets to use to thread the wires through.

I am running 5 1/4 in. sps-500's powered by a simple sony HU and a single 10 in. JBL in a truck box powered by an old ghetto kenwood amp.

My system is clear and loud and the sub kicks hard when I want it to, you will enjoy your system.
I would highly recommend hooking up a separate amp to your door speakers though, it does make a HUGE difference. I would do so if I wasn't broke

I used to have a bazooka tube in the 2 that I took from my boat, not worth it. Definitely just find a good amp sub combo on CL...make sure its not blown!

I bought my amp and sub together on CL for 75 bucks so keep an eye out for steals

[ju5tchi11in]

Yeah I'm going to use the alpine amp to power the 6.5" door speakers and the head unit to power the 4" rears. Get a powered sub or amp sub combo later on it I feel I need more bass.

[dagg92]

Yeah I'm going to use the alpine amp to power the 6.5" door speakers and the head unit to power the 4" rears. Get a powered sub or amp sub combo later on it I feel I need more bass.

Do the rear 4" make a big noticeable difference to you? Mine were missing when I bought the car so I've never heard rear speakers in a 2 before, but from what I've heard they're not needed

[ju5tchi11in]

Do the rear 4" make a big noticeable difference to you? Mine were missing when I bought the car so I've never heard rear speakers in a 2 before, but from what I've heard they're not needed

Someone also mentioned with good door speakers and a decent head unit the rears "are not needed."

With that in mind. I am planning to redo the audio wiring so might as well. I got them for $46 on amazon.com and I get 5% cash back this quarter with my chase freedom card, free shipping so I could not go wrong really I do not think.

I have not installed any of it yet so I will let you know when they get into the car... 1st I need my car back lol. I think I am keeping my other thread updated better with the results of items purchased and arriving and progress of the car overall so subscribe to the link below in my sig and I will let you know how they sound.

[ju5tchi11in]

Actually need some advise on what kind of wiring I should get if I'm goin to redo the factory stereo wiring with new stuff? Should I get some kind of kit? Or just different gauge wires?

[dagg92]

Actually need some advise on what kind of wiring I should get if I'm goin to redo the factory stereo wiring with new stuff? Should I get some kind of kit? Or just different gauge wires?

Get a wiring harness. It plugs into factory harness and matches up wire colors for you to splice together with your new aftermarket head unit. Most car companies use the same universal plug for there stereos. I'm almost positive this will fit. Just plug it into the old connector then solder the wires between the harness and after market HU.

?NEW TOYOTA SCION CAR TRUCK RADIO STEREO WIRING PLUG INTO FACTORY WIRE HARNESS ? | eBay

[ju5tchi11in]

Get a wiring harness. It plugs into factory harness and matches up wire colors for you to splice together with your new aftermarket head unit. Most car companies use the same universal plug for there stereos. I'm almost positive this will fit. Just plug it into the old connector then solder the wires between the harness and after market HU.

?NEW TOYOTA SCION CAR TRUCK RADIO STEREO WIRING PLUG INTO FACTORY WIRE HARNESS ? | eBay

Crutchfield is including a wiring harness for free, but I would like to redo the wiring for the audio. Should not be to hard right? just take out the old stuff and the amp and then rewire with new stuff along where the old stuff was and leave one for an additional amp and sub if I choose to get one. Hmmmm, "how hard could it be?"