93 5sfe - SMT6 installed and working

[mrturrari]

I've actually had the SMT6 installed for almost a week but I finally got the time to run the serial cable to the cabin and make sure that it was fully working and I could modify fuel and timing.

The install is very similar to the 3sgte install in that you ignore what the instructions say about using the signal from the distributor. Instead you have to intercept the signal to the igniter after the ECU. The Toyota ECU seems to have a problem reading the signal from the SMT6 and no matter what output I used or how I configured it I could not get the misfires to go away. My Dad who is an EE and I actually figured out a way to make it work using the distributor signal but it would involve building two rather complex circuits, one for each side of the SMT6. We built one of them to use with an EMS later and it was working but since you can use the igniter instead I opted for the easy way out.

So far I have only noticed a couple of hick-ups, a misfire or two caused by low voltage from a dying alternator and one annoyance I noticed, the map signal is a few tenths of a volt lower on the ECU side of the SMT6 when everything is set to zero and the engine is just started and for a little while after. It makes things run slightly leaner but not enough to cause concern. It may even give me better gas mileage for now.

For those wanting to install an SMT6 on a 5sfe, the wiring goes like this:

Black ---> Ground (I T'ed into E01 on the ECU and it works fine)
Red ---> 12v+ (I T'ed into +B1 on the ECU)
Yellow ---> Cut the IGT wire from the ECU and connect the yellow wire, add a 1k Ohm resister to ground and Blue/Black pull-up from the SMT6
White ---> Connect the other side of the IGT wire you cut her which goes to the igniter
Purple ---> Cut the PIM wire coming from the ECU and connect the purple wire to the ECU side
Blue ---> Connect the other side of the PIM wire here which goes to the MAP sensor
Brown ---> Connect to same place as blue if you are planning any forced induction. In 93 5sfe's you can T this to the TPS instead if you plan to stay NA. I can't remember the ECU pin but if you need it I can look where I found it.
Black/Brown ---> T into OX1 for an oxygen sensor reading
Green/Yellow ---> T into ECTS for a water temp reading

It should be the same on the earlier 91-92 5sfe's except you must use the MAP sensor for your load signal (Brown wire). The gen 1 TPS is basically an on/off switch so you won't want to rely on it for load.

For setting it up you will want:

Mode: 10-Single ignition advance and retard + frequency fuel
Teeth per turn: 2
Teeth per firing: 1
Cylinders: 4
Positive input pol: off
Positive output pol: off
Low level input: off
RPM deflection low: 700 worked for me but it will be different on different motors. Set it so the red highlighted square is on the second row up at idle.
RPM deflection high: 6300
Analog deflection scale minimum: Turn off all accessories including fans, A/C and stereo and warm up the car. This will give you the lowest vacuum at idle. Read the Load Deflection % at the bottom of the tuning screen and set the minimum to 5% more then what you read.
Analog deflection scale maximum: Take the same reading as above but without the engine running. This will give you close to zero manifold pressure which is as high as an NA can go. If you plan forced induction you are going to need a way to simulate your maximum boost at the MAP sensor to take the reading and set it to 5% lower then what you read.
If you use the TPS on the brown wire then for analog deflection all you have to do is take the readings with the engine off for the minimum and then engine off and the gas peddle floored for the maximum.

[Mister2.2]

Thanks for the info, this might come in handy!

[mrturrari]

Here's an update:

That slightly lower voltage going from the SMT6 to the ECU was causing problems. It was actually causing AFRs to go to 17:1, 18:1 and even 19:1 during moderate loads especially between 2000 and 3000 rpms. This would sometimes cause a bit of detonation, felt as a loss of power and even a couple of times send the ECU into panic mode. It would die and then I would have to turn the ignition off and on again to start it. So for the last week I have had it bypassed to see what the ECU does normally.

I know people always say how rich the 5sfe runs but let me tell you the 93 5sfe is not that way at all. Realize that mine is highly modified but I am still running the stock cams for now so I think the same would be true for any 93+ 5sfe. Once the car is warmed up, during part throttle from 2000-3000 rpms it seems to be perfectly normal to see AFRs go to 15.5:1 all the way to 17:1. Because it's low load and low RPMs this is nothing harmful and not even noticeable. However when you add the voltage drop from this SMT6 of 1 to 2 tenths of a volt it moves that up a point or two and things start getting nasty.

The solution is pretty easy. The SMT6 has a setting under Global Parameter Setup called Fuel zero calibration. I just set this to 1 and the problems went away.

So for anyone who is installing an SMT6 I would recommend you check the voltage coming from your MAP sensor to the SMT6 and be sure it is the same as the voltage going from the SMT6 to the ECU. This is done at idle and with the fuel maps at zero after you have calibrated the load and rpm scales. If the voltages are very different then set the fuel zero calibration until they are as close as possible. The grainularity is not great, an increase or decrease of one moved the voltage by more then a tenth, but it should be enough to get it safe again.

I'm going to drive it around a few more days and see if it remains good. If it does then I am ready to either install an AFPR or put in some bigger injectors.

[mrturrari]

Another update...

Still have a slight misfire showing up once or twice a day. I'm not sure what is causing it but it's good enough that I am going to try to move forward with the rest of my plans.

So today I put 315cc injectors and a 3sgte MAP sensor in and did some rough tuning. I still need to tune out that lean spot at part throttle between 2000-3000 rpms that keeps showing up. It's hard to pin it down to a set of specific load points as it happens only once in a while. Maybe it's time to do a ride along with someone else driving. At idle I had to pull a bit of fuel to get it in a range where the closed loop mode could somewhat consistently get it to 14.7 AFR and then had to add fuel as the load got greater across the map. I'm sure even with the addition of fuel the 315cc injectors and 2 bar MAP are making the ECU advance the timing a bit. Just to be safe I set my base back to 10 degree (I was running it at 12) and I'll play with that as time goes on. At WOT it is running great and holds an AFR around 13.8-14.0:1 after some tuning. With the maps at 0 it was in the 14-15:1 range which is great for power but not for cold days or having a margin of safety.

So now that I have some extra headroom to add fuel if I need it I can get ready to put the new cams in. This fuel setup should be enough for 200rwhp NA but with a 6300 red line that isn't going to happen. Almost time to take bets on what kind of dyno numbers it's going to put out.

[wesnemo]

What mods do you have to this motor? That will help the hp oddsmakers.

[mrturrari]

Mods are:

87.75mm Bore (+0.030") It's a true 2.2 liter
Custom AtomicSpeedware 9:1 forged pistons
Totalseal Nitride rings
Eagle H-Beam 3sgte rods
Clevite 77 bearings
1mm 98 5sfe MLM head gasket
ARP 3sgte head studs
ARP 3sgte main studs
Ishihara-Johnson Crank Scraper
98 5sfe oil pump shimmed 1.25mm
Fidanza lightened flywheel
NST underdrive pulley
Rotating assenbly balanced end to end
+2mm oversized Ferrea SS valves
Ported and deshrouded head
2jzgte valve springs
2jzgte HKS cam gear (machined to fit)
ATS Racing 170 degree thermostat
Homemade 4-1 long runner header (1-5/8" diameter primaries about 27" long)
ATS 2.75" B-pipe with high flow cat
Stock 3sgte muffler
Custom 2.5" aluminum intake pipe w/ K&N filter
Spec Stage 3/Stage 4 disk clutch
Zeitronics wideband
SMT 6
315cc injectors
3sgte MAP sensor
Webcam 793 grind cams (9mm lift, 264@0.010", 224@0.040")

Lastly I am at an elevation of 4200ft.

[Mister2.2]

Pretty nice setup. You're a really good candidate for the ITBs. Can't wait to see a dyno. Do you really think the crank scrapers going to be worth having?

[Weasy2k]

wow cant believe i missed this section for so long.

Hey good work on the setup, I just did a setup not long ago with the same results in regards to changing where the ignition setup is taken from (ecu vs disti) works great here now.

As for your fueling problem, how good of a 12v signal is the smt6 getting? The smt6 is really picky and can have pretty crummy results if the +b signal is a bit on the weaker side and eventually can lead to a voltage drop off after the smt6 (which you are experiencing).

Never had that problem myself but others have from time to time and they just used the fuel zero calib to fix that (as you did)

Good work man keep on updating I love the 6's they work real well.

[mrturrari]

The misfiring has become more pronounced, perhaps because the weather has been changing. There are times when it misfires then it's like I loose all timing advance and the AFRs go all over the place. Usually this is when I am cruising on the freeway. AFRs before it happens are 14.7:1 and I am not modifying timing at all. Turning the key off and on again does not fix this however unplugging and plugging the SMT6 back in again does. Then it works for 5-10 minutes until it does it again. Still not positive what is causing it so I put the stock injectors back in and bypassed the SMT6. It runs great again now so I will try the SMT6 set to zero across the board again and see if I can reproduce it without any tuning parameters to confuse the issue.

Weasy2k, I thought that might be the case so I pulled a 12 gauge wire right from the terminal in the engine bay box and also attached the ground right to the chassis. It still does it though. I noticed that sometimes when this would happen that the RPM would no longer show up in the tuning software until I replugged in the SMT6 connector. Maybe it is a bad connection somewhere inside the SMT6 or one of the pins on the connector? My tach dips when it misfires so I'm thinking it's the ignition signal that is being interrupted. It works fine with the bypass board in place so at this point I don't think it's my wiring.

[mrturrari]

Originally Posted by Mister2.2

Pretty nice setup. You're a really good candidate for the ITBs. Can't wait to see a dyno. Do you really think the crank scrapers going to be worth having?

ITBs are cool but the added complexity is not something I want to deal with on this engine especially when I plan to put the turbo back on at some point.

As for the crank scrapper... yes, absolutely. It lightens the crank by keeping oil off it and also keeps more oil in the pan for those 1G corners. It's probably only a 1-2hp gain in power but then again it was only $60.

[Mister2.2]

Did not know you were going to put a turbo back on it again I guess I can say that's good planning though.

Not worried about oil starvation at all with the scraper? I remember some people discussing that at one point, not sure what the general consensus was on it.

[mrturrari]

I'm not sure where people have gotten that idea. If anything a crank scrapper will make it less likely to have oil starvation because all lubricated parts are fed by the oil pump by way of the oil galleys. Oil that then comes out through the bearings and squirt holes just drops down as usual having done it's job lubricating and removing heat. Oil that would have been flung up by the crank say during sideways, acceleration or deceleration g-forces gets scrapped off and kept in the pan. That helps keep the pickup submerged under more adverse conditions and thereby keeps the engine from as easily starving of oil.

The only positive thing I can think of about having oil flung around by the crank is that more oil may find its way to the bottom of the pistons and have a cooling effect. Since oil is already getting there via squirt holes in the rods, I don't think that is such a big deal.

[wesnemo]

Where did you source the crank scraper? I've been trolling the boards for a while and yours is the only one I've seen. A lot of the vendors list almost nothing for performance 5s stuff. The rest of them list nothing for 5s.

[mrturrari]

I got mine on ebay. They probably just don't have any up for the 5sfe right now. You can go directly to their website:

www.crank-scrappers.com

It took a little grinding to make it fit the 93 block just FYI.

[Weasy2k]

You got a response in PM man hope that helped!

[Kevin Johnson]

Originally Posted by mrturrari

I got mine on ebay. They probably just don't have any up for the 5sfe right now. You can go directly to their website:

www.crank-scrappers.com

It took a little grinding to make it fit the 93 block just FYI.

If I email you a pic could you indicate where you had to adjust it? If I can make a generalized correction to the pattern, I will.

Here's a good example of the unpredictability of casting consistency (Toyota 4AXX blocks -- you can see that the 20V variant is involved):

[mrturrari]

Email sent.

[Kevin Johnson]

Originally Posted by mrturrari

Email sent.

Got them! Excellent pics and very helpful comments about when ARP fasteners are used.

I am working with an owner of a Toyota Atlantic engine right now in developing a scraper and windage tray system for the TRD dry sump.

Also, any MR2 owners reading this that are running the 4A engine: Wayne Walker, an MR2 racer in Australia, did some measurements of the pickup opening height in the sump (it is about 25mm or 1" off the floor). Combined with the running oil volume in the sump (about 2 quarts) this information means the engine is essentially working with just 1 quart of oil. The second quart is not accessible because of the pickup height. Beware.

I have not had a chance to measure the 5S pickup depth that I have here -- I am guessing it is similar in engineering.

[Weasy2k]

Hey man, I thought i emailed you already but just realized i did not! You got mail!

[mrturrari]

Originally Posted by Weasy2k

You got a response in PM man hope that helped!

Thanks Weasy2k. It's been raining all weekend so I haven't had a chance to try anything yet. I got the wiring diagram and it matches exactly how I have things wired up except that the 93 ECU has a different pin out.

Something that came to mind... I have been logging with a Zeitronix while this was happening and noticed something interesting. The Zeitronix has it's RPM signal being picked up before the SMT6 straight off the ECU on IGT. In the logs it shows no big RPM dip when this happens but there is a definite dip of 500 or more rpms at the tachometer. In the BGB it says the tach signal comes from the ignitor.

Here's the graph. The cursor, the vertical line, is at the approximate point where it happened. There is a second misfire towards the right of the graph when I was accelerating again: