Hydra EMS Talk....

[Weasy2k]

Many people use these for the 3s engine and having only seen one running on a already tuned engine I don't have much experience with this units only that they are solid and the plug and play ability is TOP notch.

I would just like to know what others think of this unit and maybe who uses it/has tuned it. As well people can offer install tips or other things that may help others. Eventually leading to a FAQ for each unit.

I will be posting more on different units here as i get the time to do so.


Specs:

Auxiliary outputs:

PWM 1 - 4, 9 - 14 and 16 are general purpose switch to ground 1A current limited outputs. PWM 1 - 4 have optional free-wheeling diodes for linear control of variable solenoids. PWM 5,6 and 8 are general purpose switch to power 1A current limited outputs. All PWM channels have 33V flyback limiting. PWM 1 is not available for DBW Cars. PWM 7 and PWM 15 are currently not available.



NTK L2H2 Wideband Closed Loop Autotune:

All Nemesis 2.5 ECUs have an L2H21 driver as standard equipment. There is no need to use an external uego driver module. The L2H2 , a newer more robust version of the L1H1 Sensor is a state-of-the-art Nernst Cell sensor with a rapid response and far more useful rich end output characteristics than older, non-planar sensors. Heater current is limited for a controlled warm up, and voltage limited for constant temperature.



Ignition:

Igniter signals are fully sequential 5V ignition triggers. Firing mode is positive only (voltage output to charge coil). Output options are direct fire, wasted spark and distributor signal.



Support:

Nemesis 2.5 includes many support options that make seamless plug-and-play possible, and wire in trouble free. Advanced support features include a dedicated variable speed fuel pump signal for the WRX, Honda multiplex bus support (for climate control and gauges), dedicated circuit opening relay ground signal and dedicated sensor ground connections that reduce harness ground wire splicing.



Auxiliary inputs:

Aux 1, 2 and 3 are 0 - 5V analog or 0 - 12V digital inputs. In digital mode, the switch point is 2.5V. Aux 3, 4 and 5 are digital only inputs, with a switch point of 2.5V.



Injectors:

The Nemesis 2.5 is capable of running cars up to 8 Cylinders sequentially. Injection modes are sequential, batch fire and throttle body injection. When not used for injection, outputs 2 - 8 can be used for staged injection or general purpose switching, and outputs 2 - 5 can be used for PWM control .



Sensors:

Analog sensor inputs are coolant temp, air temp, throttle position, twin knock sensor, twin ego sensor and on-board 3 bar map sensor. Temperature sensors can be configured for the 2 most common types, and knock sensor inputs can be amplified.

Digital trigger inputs are vss, trig and sync. These inputs are magnetic reluctor, Hall effect or optical sensor compatible.

[Enthalpy]

I have a Nemesis and have tuned quite a few of them.

The unit is fantastic for a budget-minded racer who wants full EMS functionality with the only genuine plug-and-play ability out there for our car. The AEM EMS comes close, but it's not 100% plug-and-play if you want speed-density (which you do).

The unit's only drawback is the software isn't mature yet. This means is a tad cumbersome to get around in the software. It's gotten a whole lot better, but it's not as mature as other systems out there.

As far as tips, I'm loaded with them. Feel free to ask any question you want. I regularly tune this system, as well as the AEM EMS and the occasional Autronic and VERY occasional MegaSquirt.

[pinamr2]

so what would your recomend for a stock 3sgte, soon to add more parts but stock for now.
do you get rid of your stock ecu?

[Enthalpy]

Not unless you want to learn to tune on a car that you already know is safe. I took this route when I taught myself to tune.

If you aren't interested in that, then a stock car doesn't need an EMS to run well. It simply needs the stock ECU. That will keep your engine safer.

[b.18tuner5875]

Originally Posted by Enthalpy

Not unless you want to learn to tune on a car that you already know is safe. I took this route when I taught myself to tune.

If you aren't interested in that, then a stock car doesn't need an EMS to run well. It simply needs the stock ECU. That will keep your engine safer.

well i also currently have a stock 3sgte that i plan on adding power to, so would it be better to buy this ems, or buy all other electronics like a boost controller, vpc, sfac and so on?

[Sang]

Originally Posted by b.18tuner5875

well i also currently have a stock 3sgte that i plan on adding power to, so would it be better to buy this ems, or buy all other electronics like a boost controller, vpc, sfac and so on?

A single EMS > 10 piggybacks trying to achieve the same thing let alone with much less variability and adjustability.

As far as a boost controller, that's your call. Both the AEM and Nemesis can control boost via the optional solenoids.

[Enthalpy]

^^ Yup, he nailed it.

[Hiighboost2]

Originally Posted by Enthalpy

The unit is fantastic for a budget-minded racer who wants full EMS functionality with the only genuine plug-and-play ability out there for our car. The AEM EMS comes close, but it's not 100% plug-and-play if you want speed-density (which you do).

Someone told me converting over to a MAP setup w/o removing the tvis was a bad idea.
He said something about them not working well together? (something along those lines)
Is this true?

[b.18tuner5875]

thanks for the reply i think ill save up for the nemesis, it appeals to me more, one more question tho, does the stock ecu have the ability to hook up a laptop the same way the hydra or aem would?

[Bak@EMSPowered]

No, the stock ecu will not hook up to a laptop. It is not meant to be adjusted or reprogrammed.

[Enthalpy]

Originally Posted by Hiighboost2

Someone told me converting over to a MAP setup w/o removing the tvis was a bad idea.
He said something about them not working well together? (something along those lines)
Is this true?

Sorry, I missed this response.

No, it's not a bad idea. What your friend might be talking about is messing with the VE, and a speed-density system won't be aware of VE shifts. Using the combination of the MAP-based EMS and TVIS works fine and keeps you safe because if the TVIS is not functioning the way it should be, it will reduce your motor's VE, which will make you slightly richer. No biggie. Failure scenario is covered.

I have my TVIS in my car, which is EMS-powered using speed-density.

[Psycho]

If I get the hydra EMS, would it be better to go with the boost control kit that can be included with the package, or buy a separate unit? I hear the HKS EVC 6 boost controller with EZ writer tuning software is rather nice.

[Enthalpy]

Everybody has their take on the "best controller out there". My personal favorite is the Blitz SBC-ID. It's not cheap, of course.

One of the few things I'm not crazy about in the Nemesis is its built-in internal boost control. It isn't all that well-implimented when compared with other stand-alone units. It will acceptably control boost, however. It's also the cheapest option, so there's your tradeoff.

[Psycho]

Yeah, I figured the hydra boost controller wouldn't be on the same level as the ones that cost $500 and up.

Thx for the info.

[USAFMR2]

I'm not sure if this is a stupid question or not, but I know the MR2 has a Fuel Cut Off when the boost gets too high...does buying the Hydra Nemesis eliminate this Fuel Cut Off at higher boost pressures? Or would I have to get a FCD as well as the Hydra?

Stephen

[Enthalpy]

The Nemesis has a completely user-adjustable fuel cut. no defenser or signal fiddling required.

[780GTS]

I have a 92 JDM car, after reading this, I think my next mod will be a Hydra... I was going to try and source an Apexi but I think this is a better route, I will learn to tune it while I am very mildly modified (3" exhaust after DP, K&N intake filter & manual boost controller which I will be replacing eventually with a electronic unit that has "boost per gear") this EMS will allow me to eliminate change Fuel Cut, Top Speed Limiter & the AFM on the intake correct? I am building an engine on the side so I would like to get familiar with this EMS before I swap in the new engine, how will the EMS take to a small shot of nitrous? as I am currently researching doing that aswell (direct port) & my last question, is there any other supporting mods I need besides a wideband gauge (which I already have)?
Thank you!

[Enthalpy]

this EMS will allow me to eliminate change Fuel Cut, Top Speed Limiter & the AFM on the intake correct?

Correct. You can do that and so much more.

how will the EMS take to a small shot of nitrous?

This EMS will handle nitrous fine, AS LONG AS IT'S TUNED CORRECTLY. That said, you can blow your engine very quickly if it isn't tuned well.

is there any other supporting mods I need besides a wideband gauge (which I already have)?

A pro tuner uses a dyno and his shop's wideband to completely tune your car.

[Foygroup]

The Hydra is also preprogrammed to work with the Aquamist Water/Methanol injection system too. I prefer using Water/Meth over nitros. It last longer and has other benefits including cooling and cleaning your engine. You can advance the timing and program the Hydra to work with or without the Water/Meth on. Check into that before you go with Nitros.

If you do decide to go with Nitros, it's safer to go with a wet shot as opposed to a dry shot of nitros.

[780GTS]

Ok awesome, yea the only tuner around here is 2 hours away and likes to tune with VIPEC but wants over $3000 to put it in and tune it, and then I was thinking... every time I get a new part I'll have to take it to him to tune it and pay a shit load and go real far so I might be able to get away with learning the Hydra on my lightly modified motor and adding a few bolt ons and playing around with it, and yeah if I do decide to go the nitrous route I will take it to the dyno to be tuned absolutely... but I have MUCH research to do before I make my decision, this is the NOS kit I was considering as I can get it for just under $500 Holley Performance Products Sportsman Fogger Nitrous System*05030-FINOS
and I can get the automatic bottle opener, and the RPM module so after everything is set up/tuned proper all I would have to do is flip the switch on, then the bottle would open and the nitrous would engage at set RPM during WOT... which I think is pretty bad ass haha but I am VERY leering of using nitrous and would take utmost precaution, I would probably just want a 60/70 shot. I would also only use it rarely as when the switch is off it wouldn't have any effect on anything I just want to ensure the Hydra system is compatible if I go this route as I need to do more research as to how the EMS reacts to nitrous and stuff, it's a long learning process forsome reason nitrous is just more appealing to me the meth injection haha... that sounds so fast & furious lmao

thanks for the replies guys!