![]() |
|
|
|||||||
| NA - 4A-GE/3A-LU Whether it's a street motor or a Formula Atlantic, you can find the answers here. |
![]() |
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|
#1 (permalink) |
|
No Skills
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 18
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
My Google Map iTrader Rating: (0/0% ) |
1986 mr2 with jdm 1989 engine wont start
well i just got this mk1(ass you guys refer to it)... i was told it had a bad maf meter...and camseal or distibuter seal bad(could tell which one mechanic told him)
so i get it home and i was it, clean engine bay and clean maf( did a burst with brake parts cleaner then realized and switched to right stuff) i also did some throttle body cleaner so i go to start it it runns for about 5 seconds and dies and wont start...and i begin looking around , the valley between the cams where spark plugs are has water so i disconnect plug wiring and vacumed vally out and let dry...i lost track of the plug wire loactions ![]() few notes: i have spark to every thing i might have fuel i need a firing order diagram well a maf cause engine not to start and anyones 2 since is apprecaited...im a v8 guy new to the 4 |
|
|
|
|
|
#2 (permalink) |
|
Cage Fighter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Colorado
Posts: 310
Thanks: 0
Thanked 49 Times in 46 Posts
My Google Map iTrader Rating: (0/0% ) |
I was hoping one of the 16v guys would take a stab at this, I pulled mine out at Christmas and am running a BT, but went out to the garage and the ignition wires were still attached to my distributor and cap. Try this: as you look at the distributor you should have 4 spark plug wire locations facing up or close to it.
#1 should be passenger side front #3 should be passenger side rear #2 should be drivers side front #4 should be drivers side rear. If it won't run like that, remove #1 spark plug and rotate engine until #1 is at TDC, then pull your oil fill cap and the cam should have a hash mark indicating all valves are closed. Then pull the distributor cap (do not loosen the bolts on the base of the distributor or you will change your timing) and check which contact the rotor is pointing at. If you have to have someone bump the starter so you can determine the correct rotation. Then it's just plug in the wires. 1342 A lot of this is from memory, hope it helps. |
|
|
|
|
|
#3 (permalink) |
|
No Skills
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 18
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
My Google Map iTrader Rating: (0/0% ) |
thanks alot i got it fixed literally 15-30mins ago....turns out i also have broken/collapsed rings after running compression test it had no-balls...number 4 had 5 pound the rest were like 95 so i think it needed rings anyways
|
|
|
|
|
|
#4 (permalink) |
|
Cage Fighter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Colorado
Posts: 310
Thanks: 0
Thanked 49 Times in 46 Posts
My Google Map iTrader Rating: (0/0% ) |
I'd perform a leak down test before I point my finger at any internal problem. They aren't hard to do and can provide a wealth of information before you start pulling an engine.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#5 (permalink) |
|
No Skills
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 18
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
My Google Map iTrader Rating: (0/0% ) |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#6 (permalink) |
|
Cage Fighter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Colorado
Posts: 310
Thanks: 0
Thanked 49 Times in 46 Posts
My Google Map iTrader Rating: (0/0% ) |
Leak Down Test VFAQ
Here is a basic explanation. The gauge is actually easy to make, and use. Since you now know what to look for do a Google search and you will find instructions on how to build your own. |
|
|
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|