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| NA - 4A-GE/3A-LU Whether it's a street motor or a Formula Atlantic, you can find the answers here. |
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#21 (permalink) |
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DaTsUnDR!Ft INC.
Join Date: Jul 2008
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#22 (permalink) | |
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Show me your genitals
Join Date: Apr 2006
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#23 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Mar 2008
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race me? lol... highest HP I have is in my truck, but it's not that serious man.... point is, for straight line, if you have a 1.6l NA MK1 against we'll say my 2.2l NA MK2, I'd have a small advantage despite weighing 400+ pounds more... I just have a bigger motor...
90% of the people will tell you that turbo is better for drag and track, but ****** for autocross. but then again, 80%+ of the people here use their car as a DD. I'm pretty sure my assumption is right when I say the OP isn't trying to build an autocross star and that he just wants a beast DD. in which case a good turbo would be a good option |
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#24 (permalink) |
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Toyota Freak
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Cape Coral, FL
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ok. the thing is that the reason i'm not planning to go with turbo or swap is because i don't make a lot of money for that, i'm on a tight budget. besides i work for grease monkey ( oil and lube shop ). i'm only getting paid $7.50 an hr. yeah it sucks!! i wish i could go turbo, but is too expensive plus they don't make turbo kits for the MK1 MR2. i've got to get custom made and is a lot of hassle and problems. even if i swap engines, it takes money and a lot of fabrication and time, i can't deal with that! i just need to get the right parts for the 4age. i've seen people with hitting 200hp with the NA 4age. ( no turbo/swap ). but they don't explain what they put on the motor. besides, my dad and my uncle are the ones helping me rebuilt the 4age. they are long time experience mechanics and they used rebuild racing engines back in there days. so i know there is a way hooking it up close to 200hp. i just need help on the right parts and advice.
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#25 (permalink) |
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DaTsUnDR!Ft INC.
Join Date: Jul 2008
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who was taking about straight lines here i tack race bub were talking about modding a 4a-ge and if you guys can understand me then dont reply dammit stop hatting on my redneck ass i just keep reporting and dont hate because i got more cars then youve owned in your hole life and dude that started this thread just get your motor bored camed and cranked and youll be happy dont forget about a head port and polish youll be happer then these haters that cant read because then live in some bum****ed small town and cant do anything other then put a turbo on a motor
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#26 (permalink) |
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DaTsUnDR!Ft INC.
Join Date: Jul 2008
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point is i know how to work with motors and not have to swap motors to be fast trust me a 16v can stomp a 20v any day
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#27 (permalink) |
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Curve hunter!
Join Date: Aug 2006
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I'd like to find out the mods that will get you 200hp out of the 4AGE. Sound like it would be tons of fun and good reliability! I'm planning on getting a MKI soon so I'll be following closely!!! I guess you would start off with some machine work on the block and heads to get some more displacement.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Everett For This Useful Post: | enzospriggs (07-27-2008) |
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#28 (permalink) | |
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DaTsUnDR!Ft INC.
Join Date: Jul 2008
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#29 (permalink) |
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Toyota Freak
Join Date: Jul 2008
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LOL!!! AMEN to that enzo and blue mr2. LOL
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#30 (permalink) |
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DaTsUnDR!Ft INC.
Join Date: Jul 2008
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but for reals call around get quoets and stuff i never mentiond the 2-3000$ tool bill just to be able to do all that my self but now i have thouse tools and can do more of this stuff
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#31 (permalink) |
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RAR!
Join Date: Feb 2007
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ummmm sorry to contradict but the 20v is a much better engine to start with as a base for a na buildup lol. Hence the reason Toyota used it for the formula Atlantic (only makes 240hp) is a 20v buildup. You can buy a formula atlantic from various sources but be prepared to spend the likes of 10-20k (depending on the supplier).
However you can get 200 out of a 16v, but anything past 170hp is going to get very pricy for only a few hp gains. unlike the easier stuff you do to get to 150-160. Heres a good site to explain what I am trying to say. Bill Sherwood's Modified 4AGE Page |
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#32 (permalink) |
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_________________
Join Date: Oct 2007
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I really, REALLY doubt you can get 250hp out of a n/a. Sorry enzo, but formula atlantic motors only got 240hp out of highly tuned, $8k for the crankshaft, motors. If you want 200+hp go with the 4agze with cams and pulley.
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#33 (permalink) | |
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i <3 Hikki Chan!
Join Date: Apr 2008
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Enzospriggs, either your a real a beast of a tuner and technician or a real magician. 250hp 1.6L 16V 4A-GE. You said it put down 200+ and you detuned it to 165. Where's the dyno chart? Where are the pics of your car? I'm sorry but you're still a bench racer until you put up some pics of dyno chart, engine builds, etc. |
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#34 (permalink) | |
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i <3 Hikki Chan!
Join Date: Apr 2008
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Next, a decent set of cams go from $400 - $1000, valve train upgrades tend to be about another $400 Pistons are about $350, and Rods go from $350 - $450 Fuel Injectors would go for about $400 for a good set Still gotta get the crank worked, lightend, rebalanced, knife edged Gotta have the head reworked, multi angle valve job, port polish and flow benched N/A should go ITB for maximum output instead of a "good intake" A Standalone computer would be required as the engine would need to be spinning upwards of 10k+ to make your clamied 250hp out of 1.6L that's another $500 - $2000+ Stop playing Gran Turismo and do work, post some pics to shut me up. Oh, you've got $2000 - $3000 in tools? Awesome for the price of your tools you could have bought my TOOLBOX that has about $6000 in tools in it. Last edited by fastrax203; 07-28-2008 at 01:27 PM. |
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#35 (permalink) |
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i <3 Hikki Chan!
Join Date: Apr 2008
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Sorry guys, I just don't like people who pull numbers out of their asses and claim it to be true and blah blah blah. Pics or it didn't happen.
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#36 (permalink) |
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Formerly Tom Brokaw
Join Date: Feb 2005
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the 240hp formula engines are rebuild constantly. its not reliable, or streetable. anyone telling you anything different is lying to you.
basically, you're not going to hit 200hp. you need a different motor. |
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#37 (permalink) |
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RAR!
Join Date: Feb 2007
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For those interested, Heres all the information I have a the formula atlantic 4age. Why do i have this I considered building up a 20 to the specs myself thinking I could do it cheaper back in 2004 as I have always like the 4age engine and i prefer na and it doesn't get any better lol. This would make a really nice track car. However it is cheaper just to buy a used one lol. These guys are correct if you want power into those ranges from the 4age then its either turbo or something like this. which is not going to reliable as a dd and you can forget about passing any smog laws where you live. That and I think the police would notice you driving your car around in the 6-11k rpm range because thats where all the power is on this thing. Its a VERY peaky engine. My collection of information with regards to the formula atlantic **please note that this information was compiled via various internet sources and since I never followed through on this I didn't bother to hound toyota to validate any of it lol ** __________________________________________________ ________ General: Cylinder Firing Order: 1-3-4-2 Engine Bore: 81mm (3.189") Engine Stroke: 77mm (3.031") Oil Viscosity: 40 or 50 weight, depending on air temperature Fuel Octane Rating: 108 prefered Operating Oil Temperature: 200º-230º F, above 230º there is power loss Operating Water Temperaure: 180º-200º F Oil Pump Operating Pressure: 80-90 lbs Spark Plug: Champion C55C or C57C Compression Ratio: 12.7:1 maximum Intake Camshaft Timing: 102º Lobe Center Exhaust Camshaft Timing: 102º Lobe Center Intake Valve Lash (cold): .012" Exhaust valve Lash (cold): .013" Ignition Timing: 28º BTDC @ 2,000rpm Clearances' Valve Lifter to Bore: .0005" - .0028" Camshaft Journal: .0014" - .0028" Piston Ring Gap (#1): .016" - .018" (#2): .015" - .017" Piston to Cylinder Wall: .0045" - 0050" Wrist Pin Diameter: 19mm (.7480") Wrist Pin: .0006" - .0015" Main Bearing: .0020" - .0028" Thrust Bearing: .003: - .006" Con Rod Large End Diameter: 1.7726" - 1.7716" Con Rod Bearing: .0025" - .0030" Con Rod Side: .008" - .012" Crankshaft Nose Diameter: .9842" - .9834" Crankshaft Main Journal Diameter: 1.8897" - 1.8892" Crankshaft Con Rod Journal Diameter: 1.6525" - 1.6520" Pilot Bushing ID: .678" - .676" Input Shaft Diameter: .669" - .668" Cy |