BHG - DIY

Maticuno · 08-17-2008, 12:38 PM

So I'm still getting bubbling and steam in the overflow even after changing out the radiator, thermostat, and coolant. I'm 100% positive I bled the system properly. I have the fans set to run all the time. I guess it's time to replace the head gasket and timing belt while I'm in there. At 213k miles I may as well, right? Anyone who has done this themselves, what are some tips and tricks that will make the job easier? Any special tools that might come in handy? Thanks!

nitrate · 08-17-2008, 12:42 PM

you can try a new radiator cap. and did you blead the air from the thermostat housing? some time you have to warm the car up and blead it 4 or 5 times .

Maticuno · 08-28-2008, 10:52 PM

Tried everything under the sun and nothing worked. Took it to the shop and they say head gasket, but they won't replace the gasket with 213k miles on the engine. I think the engine still has plenty of life left in it so I'm going to do it myself and replace the timing belt while I'm at it. So I'll ask again, any tips and tricks to doing the head gasket myself? Anything I should be looking for while I'm in there? Is it imperative to have the head machined while it's out? I wouldn't mind doing a full rebuild but I don't have time since I'll be moving in about a month and I only have one day off a week.

Maticuno · 08-30-2008, 12:48 PM

I just started the project by draining the oil. It's my understanding that a blown head gasket will allow coolant into the oil, but the oil that came out was just dirty, no coolant, no frothy milkshake, nothing. Could it still be the head gasket, or does this mean the head is cracked? Either way I need to take the head off to figure it out so onward ho! By the way, I could still use any advice. Thanks!

86tymr2 · 08-30-2008, 04:21 PM

make sure u replace/label any bolts after you take things off or connections just in case...you might want to check out your water pump?

Maticuno · 08-31-2008, 02:51 AM

I have the head gasket kit, head bolt set, timing belt kit, and water pump all on order.

CyFi · 08-31-2008, 03:04 AM

just because there is no coolant in the oil doesn't mean its not blown. It can blow only into the coolant or only into the oil, or both. I strongly recommend you do a cylinder leakage test before you proceed. Do it with the radiator cap off, and as you pressurize each cylinder watch the water level, if there's combustion leakage you will see the level rise and or bubble. You can also go to napa and get a block tester kit which tests for combustion gasses in your cooling system.

Maticuno · 09-07-2008, 01:20 PM

What a pain in the ass this job is turning out to be. I've only been working on it for about an hour every day. So far I have all five bolts/nuts out of the top of the intake manifold and one bolt out of the bottom. Any easy methods for getting those lower bolts out? How the hell am I going to get a torque wrench in there to make sure it is properly torqued when I put it back together?

mr2magic · 09-07-2008, 01:39 PM

I did it from the bottom using a very, very long extension that went back behind the cross member and under the exhaust.

Maticuno · 09-10-2008, 11:08 PM

Exhaust manifold is cracked. Found one on eBay that says it is for an 89 Toyota Corolla with the 4AGE. He only has one picture of the manifold, but it looks pretty close. Anyone know if they are interchangeable?

Gairloch · 09-10-2008, 11:29 PM

One of the easiest ways to determine that is to find the part numbers and see if they match up.

Maticuno · 09-11-2008, 12:11 PM

Too late. Someone else bought it. Guess I'll have to weld the crack with some nickle rod.

Maticuno · 09-12-2008, 03:49 PM

Head is finally off. I hope I remember where all the bolts and nuts go when I put it all back together. I'm going to send it to NAPA to be pressure tested, cleaned, and rebuilt. Head gasket was definitely blown on the number 4 cylinder, exhaust side. Any tips for cleaning out the little bit of carbon buildup on the pistons? I can't believe how clean the cylinder walls are. Not a single scratch, gouge, or mark anywhere. Perfectly smooth. All the internal components I have taken off are surprisingly NOT worn for 213k miles.

Maticuno · 09-15-2008, 11:54 PM

I could really use some advice, guys. How do I get the mating surface of block nice, clean, and smooth before I reinstall the head with the new gasket? Most of it is good but there is just the slightest bit of corrosion/rust on the part where the gasket was blown. Would a flap disk on an angle grinder be too abrasive?

CyFi · 09-16-2008, 03:44 AM

YES. Dont use any kind of power tool on it. Use a blade scraper and scrape it clean, then you can use some solvent on a rag. The most abrasive thing i would use is the scrubbing side of a scotchbrite sponge. You can use a scraper on the piston tops, just be careful not to gouge the cylinder walls or deck surface when youre going it.

Maticuno · 09-23-2008, 08:02 PM

What direction do the new camshaft oil seals go? I forgot to take notice when I pulled them off. Does the flat side go on first or does the side that you can see the little spring go on first? Help!

CyFi · 09-25-2008, 04:24 PM

spring side goes to the inside, so flat side out. Make sure you put it in there strait, it will leak if its crooked

Maticuno · 09-25-2008, 07:53 PM

So, everything is back together. I started it up but it wouldn't idle at all. It would run if you push the gas, but it would sputter and die at idle. I had it towed to a shop to check it out. Apparently Autozone gave me the wrong timing belt but I managed to put it on somehow and it threw the valve timing off by 10 degrees. If I remember reading correctly, these engines are non-interference type so I don't think I could have damaged the valves. Hopefully she will be fully functional again tomorrow! Then it's off for smog testing. Oh joy.

Teado · 10-01-2008, 11:44 AM

I just got my 4age put back together from a HG replacement. I had water coming out of somewhere, so I'm back to hunting water leaks. I installed a new water pump also...

But yes, these engines are non-interference engines.

Luckily I'm past the smog years, woohoo. Next to straight pipe the cat!

Maticuno · 10-05-2008, 05:57 PM

So the car is now running AMAZINGLY! I would not have expected a 1.6L to be so fun to drive. My custom exhaust sounds really good considering it is the first one I have ever designed and built. A little raspy under hard acceleration, but it sounds MEAN once T-VIS kicks in. Now my problem is a nasty oil leak. It never used to leak this bad before the head gasket replacement. I'm thinking that since I had to pull the distributor so many times to get the ignition timing right that the oil seal is shot and it's hemorrhaging oil from there. Any other places that oil might come from?

08-17-2008, 12:38 PM	#1 (permalink)
Maticuno Park Ranging Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: California Deserts Posts: 88 Thanks: 11 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	BHG - DIY So I'm still getting bubbling and steam in the overflow even after changing out the radiator, thermostat, and coolant. I'm 100% positive I bled the system properly. I have the fans set to run all the time. I guess it's time to replace the head gasket and timing belt while I'm in there. At 213k miles I may as well, right? Anyone who has done this themselves, what are some tips and tricks that will make the job easier? Any special tools that might come in handy? Thanks!

09-10-2008, 11:29 PM	#11 (permalink)
Gairloch Dreaming of apexes Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Minneapolis, MN Posts: 4,472 Thanks: 115 Thanked 222 Times in 195 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (7/100% )	One of the easiest ways to determine that is to find the part numbers and see if they match up. __________________ "Inside the car, the world beyond the driver's immediate horizon ceases to exist. Alone with the solitude of his desire, survival sense numbed by the speed, he's outrun the mediocrity of the outside world, slipped the shackles it tries to clamp on us all. He is running free, chased only by a fear of failure, for failure is to risk ejection into the real world." ~Mark Hughes

08-17-2008, 12:42 PM	#2 (permalink)
nitrate All the skills Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 433 Thanks: 0 Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	you can try a new radiator cap. and did you blead the air from the thermostat housing? some time you have to warm the car up and blead it 4 or 5 times .

08-28-2008, 10:52 PM	#3 (permalink)
Maticuno Park Ranging Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: California Deserts Posts: 88 Thanks: 11 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	Tried everything under the sun and nothing worked. Took it to the shop and they say head gasket, but they won't replace the gasket with 213k miles on the engine. I think the engine still has plenty of life left in it so I'm going to do it myself and replace the timing belt while I'm at it. So I'll ask again, any tips and tricks to doing the head gasket myself? Anything I should be looking for while I'm in there? Is it imperative to have the head machined while it's out? I wouldn't mind doing a full rebuild but I don't have time since I'll be moving in about a month and I only have one day off a week.

08-30-2008, 12:48 PM	#4 (permalink)
Maticuno Park Ranging Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: California Deserts Posts: 88 Thanks: 11 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	I just started the project by draining the oil. It's my understanding that a blown head gasket will allow coolant into the oil, but the oil that came out was just dirty, no coolant, no frothy milkshake, nothing. Could it still be the head gasket, or does this mean the head is cracked? Either way I need to take the head off to figure it out so onward ho! By the way, I could still use any advice. Thanks!

08-30-2008, 04:21 PM	#5 (permalink)
86tymr2 No Skills Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 22 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	make sure u replace/label any bolts after you take things off or connections just in case...you might want to check out your water pump?

08-31-2008, 02:51 AM	#6 (permalink)
Maticuno Park Ranging Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: California Deserts Posts: 88 Thanks: 11 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	I have the head gasket kit, head bolt set, timing belt kit, and water pump all on order.

08-31-2008, 03:04 AM	#7 (permalink)
CyFi ShamWOW! Join Date: Oct 2005 Posts: 1,390 Thanks: 12 Thanked 38 Times in 35 Posts iTrader Rating: (10/100% )	just because there is no coolant in the oil doesn't mean its not blown. It can blow only into the coolant or only into the oil, or both. I strongly recommend you do a cylinder leakage test before you proceed. Do it with the radiator cap off, and as you pressurize each cylinder watch the water level, if there's combustion leakage you will see the level rise and or bubble. You can also go to napa and get a block tester kit which tests for combustion gasses in your cooling system.

09-07-2008, 01:20 PM	#8 (permalink)
Maticuno Park Ranging Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: California Deserts Posts: 88 Thanks: 11 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	What a pain in the ass this job is turning out to be. I've only been working on it for about an hour every day. So far I have all five bolts/nuts out of the top of the intake manifold and one bolt out of the bottom. Any easy methods for getting those lower bolts out? How the hell am I going to get a torque wrench in there to make sure it is properly torqued when I put it back together?

09-07-2008, 01:39 PM	#9 (permalink)
mr2magic deutsch type skillz Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Hannover, Germany Posts: 582 Thanks: 60 Thanked 18 Times in 18 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	I did it from the bottom using a very, very long extension that went back behind the cross member and under the exhaust.

09-10-2008, 11:08 PM	#10 (permalink)
Maticuno Park Ranging Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: California Deserts Posts: 88 Thanks: 11 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	Exhaust manifold is cracked. Found one on eBay that says it is for an 89 Toyota Corolla with the 4AGE. He only has one picture of the manifold, but it looks pretty close. Anyone know if they are interchangeable?

09-11-2008, 12:11 PM	#12 (permalink)
Maticuno Park Ranging Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: California Deserts Posts: 88 Thanks: 11 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	Too late. Someone else bought it. Guess I'll have to weld the crack with some nickle rod.

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09-12-2008, 03:49 PM	#13 (permalink)
Maticuno Park Ranging Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: California Deserts Posts: 88 Thanks: 11 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	Head is finally off. I hope I remember where all the bolts and nuts go when I put it all back together. I'm going to send it to NAPA to be pressure tested, cleaned, and rebuilt. Head gasket was definitely blown on the number 4 cylinder, exhaust side. Any tips for cleaning out the little bit of carbon buildup on the pistons? I can't believe how clean the cylinder walls are. Not a single scratch, gouge, or mark anywhere. Perfectly smooth. All the internal components I have taken off are surprisingly NOT worn for 213k miles.

09-15-2008, 11:54 PM	#14 (permalink)
Maticuno Park Ranging Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: California Deserts Posts: 88 Thanks: 11 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	I could really use some advice, guys. How do I get the mating surface of block nice, clean, and smooth before I reinstall the head with the new gasket? Most of it is good but there is just the slightest bit of corrosion/rust on the part where the gasket was blown. Would a flap disk on an angle grinder be too abrasive?

09-16-2008, 03:44 AM	#15 (permalink)
CyFi ShamWOW! Join Date: Oct 2005 Posts: 1,390 Thanks: 12 Thanked 38 Times in 35 Posts iTrader Rating: (10/100% )	YES. Dont use any kind of power tool on it. Use a blade scraper and scrape it clean, then you can use some solvent on a rag. The most abrasive thing i would use is the scrubbing side of a scotchbrite sponge. You can use a scraper on the piston tops, just be careful not to gouge the cylinder walls or deck surface when youre going it.

09-23-2008, 08:02 PM	#16 (permalink)
Maticuno Park Ranging Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: California Deserts Posts: 88 Thanks: 11 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	What direction do the new camshaft oil seals go? I forgot to take notice when I pulled them off. Does the flat side go on first or does the side that you can see the little spring go on first? Help!

09-25-2008, 04:24 PM	#17 (permalink)
CyFi ShamWOW! Join Date: Oct 2005 Posts: 1,390 Thanks: 12 Thanked 38 Times in 35 Posts iTrader Rating: (10/100% )	spring side goes to the inside, so flat side out. Make sure you put it in there strait, it will leak if its crooked

09-25-2008, 07:53 PM	#18 (permalink)
Maticuno Park Ranging Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: California Deserts Posts: 88 Thanks: 11 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	So, everything is back together. I started it up but it wouldn't idle at all. It would run if you push the gas, but it would sputter and die at idle. I had it towed to a shop to check it out. Apparently Autozone gave me the wrong timing belt but I managed to put it on somehow and it threw the valve timing off by 10 degrees. If I remember reading correctly, these engines are non-interference type so I don't think I could have damaged the valves. Hopefully she will be fully functional again tomorrow! Then it's off for smog testing. Oh joy.

10-01-2008, 11:44 AM	#19 (permalink)
Teado MK1 = My Daily Addiction Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Oregon Posts: 133 Thanks: 7 Thanked 8 Times in 7 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	I just got my 4age put back together from a HG replacement. I had water coming out of somewhere, so I'm back to hunting water leaks. I installed a new water pump also... But yes, these engines are non-interference engines. Luckily I'm past the smog years, woohoo. Next to straight pipe the cat!

10-05-2008, 05:57 PM	#20 (permalink)
Maticuno Park Ranging Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: California Deserts Posts: 88 Thanks: 11 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	So the car is now running AMAZINGLY! I would not have expected a 1.6L to be so fun to drive. My custom exhaust sounds really good considering it is the first one I have ever designed and built. A little raspy under hard acceleration, but it sounds MEAN once T-VIS kicks in. Now my problem is a nasty oil leak. It never used to leak this bad before the head gasket replacement. I'm thinking that since I had to pull the distributor so many times to get the ignition timing right that the oil seal is shot and it's hemorrhaging oil from there. Any other places that oil might come from?