I need help on cooling system

coryflying · 05-10-2009, 10:46 PM

I recently bought an '87, as I was driving it home it began to overheat. So far I've tied bleeding the system ( it got better would run hot and cool down-run hot then cool down) I pulled the thermastat- it runs normal until steam is forced into the overflow tank.Could this be a water pump or a head gasket? Is there any way to check the pump? There is no water in the oil.

88-4age · 05-10-2009, 10:48 PM

i have a 1988 toyota mr2 with a 4AGE and i cant figure out why mine does it but i figured out that if you have a decent amount of water in the main raditor line that it stays pretty cool

dirocyn · 06-28-2009, 12:48 AM

Probably some air in a coolant line somewhere. Follow the directions in the BGB for getting the air out of your system, and good luck.

tjmr2 · 06-28-2009, 03:18 AM

Air in the head, radiator and or heater and the long lines that transverse the car from front to rear can cause lack of coolant flow and hot spots that will overheat spots in your engine and over heat it, sooner than you can get to Denial.

Read the BGB and follow it's recommendations to the letter as a minimum or more. I use a brake bleeder with a 1 Qt canister in front of the vacuum brake bleeder reservoir and bleed at least 2 quarts thru each the heater and radiator to make sure all the air is out. It's clean fluid so you can add it back in at the filler neck, but you get all the air out.

Good luck!

te51levin · 06-28-2009, 01:40 PM

You definitely want a thermostat installed. Use a Toyota thermostat if at all possible. They cost about $14 through me. The aftermarket ones (Stant, etc) just don't seem to be very high quality. Once you get the 'stat installed, bleed the coolant using the procedure in the BGB - clear hose on radiator & heater bleed valves (free end elevated), all valves open, heater control set to HOT. I like to run the engine while bleeding it to make sure that coolant can circulate through the entire system and push out any pockets of air. Keep topping the system off at the filler neck until there are no longer any air bubbles escaping from anything, then shut all the bleeders and install a filler cap (preferably new and preferably OEM Toyota).

05-10-2009, 10:46 PM	#1 (permalink)
coryflying limited skills Join Date: May 2009 Location: Pa. Posts: 14 Thanks: 1 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	I need help on cooling system I recently bought an '87, as I was driving it home it began to overheat. So far I've tied bleeding the system ( it got better would run hot and cool down-run hot then cool down) I pulled the thermastat- it runs normal until steam is forced into the overflow tank.Could this be a water pump or a head gasket? Is there any way to check the pump? There is no water in the oil.

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

05-10-2009, 10:48 PM	#2 (permalink)
88-4age No Skills Join Date: May 2009 Posts: 39 Thanks: 1 Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	i have a 1988 toyota mr2 with a 4AGE and i cant figure out why mine does it but i figured out that if you have a decent amount of water in the main raditor line that it stays pretty cool

06-28-2009, 12:48 AM	#3 (permalink)
dirocyn Cage Fighter Join Date: Mar 2009 Posts: 133 Thanks: 6 Thanked 12 Times in 12 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Probably some air in a coolant line somewhere. Follow the directions in the BGB for getting the air out of your system, and good luck.

06-28-2009, 03:18 AM	#4 (permalink)
tjmr2 Cage Fighter Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Colorado Posts: 310 Thanks: 0 Thanked 49 Times in 46 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Air in the head, radiator and or heater and the long lines that transverse the car from front to rear can cause lack of coolant flow and hot spots that will overheat spots in your engine and over heat it, sooner than you can get to Denial. Read the BGB and follow it's recommendations to the letter as a minimum or more. I use a brake bleeder with a 1 Qt canister in front of the vacuum brake bleeder reservoir and bleed at least 2 quarts thru each the heater and radiator to make sure all the air is out. It's clean fluid so you can add it back in at the filler neck, but you get all the air out. Good luck!

06-28-2009, 01:40 PM	#5 (permalink)
te51levin Lithia Toyota Parts Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Oregon Posts: 1,921 Thanks: 33 Thanked 146 Times in 125 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (125/100% )	You definitely want a thermostat installed. Use a Toyota thermostat if at all possible. They cost about $14 through me. The aftermarket ones (Stant, etc) just don't seem to be very high quality. Once you get the 'stat installed, bleed the coolant using the procedure in the BGB - clear hose on radiator & heater bleed valves (free end elevated), all valves open, heater control set to HOT. I like to run the engine while bleeding it to make sure that coolant can circulate through the entire system and push out any pockets of air. Keep topping the system off at the filler neck until there are no longer any air bubbles escaping from anything, then shut all the bleeders and install a filler cap (preferably new and preferably OEM Toyota).