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#1 (permalink) |
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No Skills
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unknown oil leak location
So after a full rebuild of both the head and the short block. It appears my that there is oil leaking from some unknown area, it looks like the rear back side of the head whcih is a scary thought. It is just oil, not oil water mix, and therew is no smoke or head gasket liek symptoms (coffee oil). If it is the head at this point I feel like driving this mr2 off a cliff.
The head was resurfaced and so was the short block with a brand new fel pro gasket in between Now if the oil is leaking through the head is it possible that the head sat down a bit and I can re-torque the head bolts in sequential order? Or if it is leaking throught he head I have to replace the gasket and start over whcih I assume means new head bolts and a new gasket. I am hoping for the oil to be leaking from elsewhere like the valve cover gasket or something. Any ideas if we can re torque if it is a head leak? |
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#2 (permalink) |
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nothing but skills
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Fresno, Ca
Posts: 41
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iTrader Rating: (0/0% ) |
mine was leakin from the same place @ the valve cover though. ended up bein the gasket you mentioned
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#3 (permalink) |
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No Skills
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Turns out it was the distributor pouring oil out of the seal. So head is good, ended up using my old distributor which worked better than the one I purchased from the chicoraceworks people. The one they sent me was so beat up and not even worth putting int he car, is there any recourse I can take or are used parts a no return thing if they are DOA> I woudl like to return the faulty dizzy and get my $75 bucks back. Is this a reasonable request?,
Now I just need to gut out the cat so this engine can breath. the smog people said my cat is partially plugged but it just squeeked by. I |
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#4 (permalink) |
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former 2 owner :(
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Round 'bout Chicago
Posts: 287
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I would suggest contacting CRW regarding the defective part before bashing them on the board.
As a sponsor they have a reputation to uphold, and they will probably do what they need to to correct the situation. Did you replace the O ring on the dizzy? They are really cheap from the dealer and an easy fix. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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No Skills
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there was no bashing here just a post of events that occured. I am not saying anything bad about Chico, I bought a used distributor and did not have good results, that is all. I am just not familiar with how the used parts game works if you get a part and install it and it is DOA then what type of return is warranted?
Since the repair of the distributor oil leak I have gutted out the CAT which was 80% clogged. I have no idea how the engine ran with a clogged CAT like that. Anyway the car has power now! and pulls hard through every RPM and gear. I have about 200 miles on this engine and woudl liek to know if anyone knows what the standard break in procedure is? I have not brought it over 4K rpm or over 80 miles per hour yet. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Dreaming of apexes
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 4,472
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Babying it for 500 miles is pretty standard.
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#7 (permalink) |
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933SGTE
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Peoria, AZ
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My Google Map |
This is how I used to think. Then I heard the opposite. Drive it hard and then let off and cruise for a while, repeat. This actually helps seat the rings in the cylinders because of the increased cylinder pressures pushing them against the walls. Makes sense to me and I have heard of a lot of people doing it.
Greg |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Dreaming of apexes
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 4,472
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I think I'll continue to let the itsy bitsy pieces in the head settle in against one another nice and gentle.
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#9 (permalink) |
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No Skills
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hmmm, that is what I have been doing, I have not yet cleared 4k rpm.
Is it safe to drive her harder after my 500 miles. Can I assume everything is seated and worn in? I am really looking forward to a "spirited drive" this weekend and only have about 250 miles on this new engine. Will probably have 400 miles by end of week. I really want to see what she has got to give. The rebuild included new pistons, rings, bearings, and re machined crankshaft. As well as new re machined valves, seals etc. So this engine is chirping like new. I would like to make sure it will last 1-200K miles. Now I have gutted the CAT for now because it was 80% plugged. and I still have this annoying after CAT that seems to be pretty plugged as well ( i Can hear a rattle as exhaust flows through. Is this after cat (near the muffler) an adition the prior owner made or is it stock? |
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#10 (permalink) |
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The Mighty Gen3
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Your basement
Posts: 1,016
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I think 800-1k miles is safer than 500miles. But, your car your money.
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#12 (permalink) |
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Looking for good home
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Woodstock, GA
Posts: 166
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500 - 600 miles and change the oil at 100-200 miles.
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#13 (permalink) | |
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933SGTE
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Peoria, AZ
Posts: 1,067
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Quote:
http://www.aera.org/consumer/engbrkin.pdf Greg |
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#14 (permalink) |
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No Skills
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very helpful thanks,
I have not run her at high rpm for any length of time and I have not exceeded 4k rpm, 3500 being the max. I have about 300 miles on her and will follow through with the additional 200 miles. I am planning to not run her harder until I have a few wmiles on the engine. But I must say now that I finally have the engine humming and the exhaust cleaned out she runs beautifully and pulls hard with no hesistation. In fact I even did a bit of drifting in the parking lot this morning. BYTW Josh over at Chicoraceworks is taking car of everything and giving me a refund for the bad distributor so everything is good with that. I woudl buy from them again and will probably get my headers and exhaust through them ina year or so. |
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