Car didn't pass emissions test! Have some Q's

PearlJammzz · 02-25-2007, 11:53 PM

Hey guys, so I went to get my car inspected and emissions done, had too much carborn and nano carbons or somethin. Pretty much too rich I was told. So now I am going to do some work on my engine. Figure new plugs, cap, and rotor since I have NO idea when it was done last. Also a new valve cover gasket because 2 of my spark plug holes I get oil in. Now here are the questions, lol.

1. There are spark-plug-hole seals on the valve cover gasket yes? These seperate? Or is it all one piece for the valve cover and the 4 holes?

2. What is the torque down sequense for the valve cover?

3. This a possibility as to why some of my spark plug holes are filling with oil (will still start, just burns off eventually) yes?

4. On spark plugs/wires what brand should I go with? I don't need performace, but will generic wires and basic bosche plus work? and what's the gap measurement on the spark plugs supposed to be? (in case it's not pre-gaped).

Sorry if these seem like n00b questions, but I am a n00b, lol. Thanks for your help guys

.

mrturrari · 02-26-2007, 12:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PearlJammzz

1. There are spark-plug-hole seals on the valve cover gasket yes? These seperate? Or is it all one piece for the valve cover and the 4 holes?

Yes, they are separate from the valve cover gasket. So there are 4 gromets under the nuts that hold down the valve cover and one big rubber seal that goes all the way around between the valve cover and head.

Quote:

2. What is the torque down sequense for the valve cover?

Just tighten then incrementally so that no one is taking all the pressure at once. I usually just hand tighten them then go back and forth giving each one a half a turn until they are at spec.

Quote:

3. This a possibility as to why some of my spark plug holes are filling with oil (will still start, just burns off eventually) yes?

If your plug tubes are filling with oil then it is the grommets on the top of the spark plug tubes or the seal where the tubes screw into the head. This will not cause oil to burn unless a spark plug is loose or stripped. Oil does dry up eventually but if enough is leaking in it will cause ignition problems.

Quote:

4. On spark plugs/wires what brand should I go with? I don't need performace, but will generic wires and basic bosche plus work? and what's the gap measurement on the spark plugs supposed to be? (in case it's not pre-gaped).

OEM or NGKs are good. The cheap ones you get at Autozone and other stores are sometimes crap. For plugs I like NGKs and they have been very good for me. I know some Toyota engines are tempermental when it comes to plugs but most should work if you are stock.

Enthalpy · 02-26-2007, 12:40 AM

Do you hear a ticking when the engine is cold? That could be an exhaust manifold leak from a broken or stripped exhaust manifold stud, and it will cause rich operation.

TomsMR2 · 02-26-2007, 02:14 AM

my favorite, almost 100% guaranteed way to pass mk2's....

toss a bigass $50 OBD2 cat on the b-pipe, right behind the xmember

works fantastically.

your "nano carbons" are probably NOx (oxides of nitrogen).. cylinder temps too high, usually from a very commonly plugged EGR.

in an na, im VERY convinced you can run whatever plug you want and you'll never notice any sort of difference. ive ran almost all plugs and none made even a remote difference (i got them dirt cheap

). i run bosch coppers now, or ngk, or whatevers in stock in copper. the goofy expensive plugs tend to just waste your money. copper technically conducts better, but you're not gonna notice. a good solid platinum plug like an NGK or denso will last a long time and give worry free performance. id stay away from ultra thin electrode plugs, or bosch platinum plugs, they can and have broken in peoples engines causing damage. its unlikely in an NA engine, but a good enough detonation even can still do it. running copper plugs gives me an excuse to play with my car, so it works for me

if you dont want to bother, use a good ngk or denso plat, and change it out 60-80K miles later.

mrturrari · 02-26-2007, 03:37 AM

The place you took it to should have given you an emissions failure sheet with all the numbers. If you post up those numbers with the acceptable limits we can probably get a better idea what is wrong. High hydrocarbons are probably ignition related and high NOx is probably your CAT like Tom said.

PearlJammzz · 02-26-2007, 03:45 AM

It's in my car, but I can get it in the morning.

"Yes, they are separate from the valve cover gasket. So there are 4 gromets under the nuts that hold down the valve cover and one big rubber seal that goes all the way around between the valve cover and head."

Ok, so do I need to replace those rubber gromets? If so, what do I ask for?

Is there a difference between getting a gasket from Toyota vs checker/auto zone?

PearlJammzz · 02-26-2007, 03:48 AM

And yes, there is a slight tick I have always noticed. Never thought much of it as my car has ran beautifully since I got it.

PearlJammzz · 02-26-2007, 09:41 AM

k, it passed the idle test. I'll try to show the grid layout.

Standard - HC(ppm) = 220 CO% = 1.20
Reading - HC(ppm) = 161 CO% = .21
Deviation - HC(ppm) = 59 CO% = 0.99
CO2% = 12.1 RPM = 791

Now for the High Speed Test...

Standard - HC(ppm) = 220 CO% = 1.20
Reading - HC(ppm) = 738 CO% = 2.47
Deviation - HC(ppm) = -518 CO% = -1.27
CO2% = 11.2 RPM = 2595

mrturrari · 02-26-2007, 05:01 PM

The grommets/gaskets you get from Checker or Autozone are fine. They might have a valve cover gasket kit that includes all of it.

With high HCs like that you probably have a bad spark at higher RPMs. Replace the cap, rotor, wires and plugs to start with. Do you have the readings for NOx as well? Were they passing or not?

PearlJammzz · 02-26-2007, 06:30 PM

Nope, that's all the paper had on it besides the visuals.

I just bought some Bosh platinum plugs, wires, gasket + spark plug hole gromets, dist cap and rotor, new air filter (all that had was fram, but iot's a stock 5sfe..sure it wont matter), then oil and oil filter. 180 smacks but the 2 should run a LOT better and I am guessing pass with flying colors. The reason for the bad spark is my lil bro didn't drivei t around before it was tested (I was in Vegas, he took it in for me) so I believe it had oil on 2 plugs still..takes a lil to burn it off. Hope this will help though.

Now as far as replacing this stuff....How do I take the valve cover off? It's not like some other vehicles I've worked on (bolts around the outside edge). Seems I just turn the part that is right under the plug wires and it will all come off easily?

Is there any sort of a sealent I will need to to use on the gasket/gromets?

Thanks

PearlJammzz · 02-27-2007, 02:27 AM

I looked it up and it being a rubber gasket means that I don't need ot use any sealent (that only needs to be used on metal gaskets yes?).

mrturrari · 02-28-2007, 02:08 AM

The valve cover comes off by removing the 4 big nuts on the spark plug tubes. They do not require any kind of sealant just the grommets under them if they are in good shape. The lower valve cover gasket requires sealant in the corners by the humps for the distributor and intake cam. Once you add sealant it usually fills the gaps and you don't have to keep adding it every time you take it off.

Good luck on the inspection.

PearlJammzz · 02-28-2007, 02:12 AM

Thanks

.

I looked ta it closely today and it appeared to be leakin a little oil over my the dist.

Now you say lower valve cover gasket....is there 2? I went to checker and looked it up on the computer and got just 1 rubber one that goes around the outside and then the 4 grommets.

and I guess I'll have to go get some sealent then if it's needed.

mrturrari · 02-28-2007, 03:08 PM

Sorry, that was the one I meant. There are just the grommets and the main gasket. For sealant I just use copper RTV (high temp silicone). The BGB shows the spots you need to put it.

PearlJammzz · 02-28-2007, 04:05 PM

Cool, well I believe that's all my questions. I'll keep you guys posted Saturday on when I do this and take it in....hopefully all will be well

PearlJammzz · 03-04-2007, 02:06 AM

Update: well, didn't get it emissions tested today, but I did get her going again. She runs strong, a LOT stronger idle, and the warm idle is about 150-200rpm higher (sittin between 950 and 1k...this high?)

PearlJammzz · 03-10-2007, 03:34 PM

Got it tested today and everything passed. Thanks guys

.

baktasht · 03-10-2007, 04:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PearlJammzz

Got it tested today and everything passed. Thanks guys

.

Thats good to hear. Congrats!

02-25-2007, 11:53 PM	#1 (permalink)
PearlJammzz Cage Fighter Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 1,909 Thanks: 8 Thanked 65 Times in 62 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (5/100% )	Car didn't pass emissions test! Have some Q's Hey guys, so I went to get my car inspected and emissions done, had too much carborn and nano carbons or somethin. Pretty much too rich I was told. So now I am going to do some work on my engine. Figure new plugs, cap, and rotor since I have NO idea when it was done last. Also a new valve cover gasket because 2 of my spark plug holes I get oil in. Now here are the questions, lol. 1. There are spark-plug-hole seals on the valve cover gasket yes? These seperate? Or is it all one piece for the valve cover and the 4 holes? 2. What is the torque down sequense for the valve cover? 3. This a possibility as to why some of my spark plug holes are filling with oil (will still start, just burns off eventually) yes? 4. On spark plugs/wires what brand should I go with? I don't need performace, but will generic wires and basic bosche plus work? and what's the gap measurement on the spark plugs supposed to be? (in case it's not pre-gaped). Sorry if these seem like n00b questions, but I am a n00b, lol. Thanks for your help guys .

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02-26-2007, 12:40 AM	#3 (permalink)
Enthalpy EMS Harmonizer Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Denver, CO Posts: 1,211 Thanks: 8 Thanked 53 Times in 42 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	Do you hear a ticking when the engine is cold? That could be an exhaust manifold leak from a broken or stripped exhaust manifold stud, and it will cause rich operation.

02-26-2007, 02:14 AM	#4 (permalink)
TomsMR2 Formerly Tom Brokaw Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Bay Area Posts: 2,138 Thanks: 8 Thanked 165 Times in 138 Posts Blog Entries: 1 iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	my favorite, almost 100% guaranteed way to pass mk2's.... toss a bigass $50 OBD2 cat on the b-pipe, right behind the xmember works fantastically. your "nano carbons" are probably NOx (oxides of nitrogen).. cylinder temps too high, usually from a very commonly plugged EGR. in an na, im VERY convinced you can run whatever plug you want and you'll never notice any sort of difference. ive ran almost all plugs and none made even a remote difference (i got them dirt cheap ). i run bosch coppers now, or ngk, or whatevers in stock in copper. the goofy expensive plugs tend to just waste your money. copper technically conducts better, but you're not gonna notice. a good solid platinum plug like an NGK or denso will last a long time and give worry free performance. id stay away from ultra thin electrode plugs, or bosch platinum plugs, they can and have broken in peoples engines causing damage. its unlikely in an NA engine, but a good enough detonation even can still do it. running copper plugs gives me an excuse to play with my car, so it works for me if you dont want to bother, use a good ngk or denso plat, and change it out 60-80K miles later.

02-26-2007, 03:37 AM	#5 (permalink)
mrturrari I <3 my 5sfe Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 418 Thanks: 2 Thanked 93 Times in 60 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	The place you took it to should have given you an emissions failure sheet with all the numbers. If you post up those numbers with the acceptable limits we can probably get a better idea what is wrong. High hydrocarbons are probably ignition related and high NOx is probably your CAT like Tom said.

02-26-2007, 03:45 AM	#6 (permalink)
PearlJammzz Cage Fighter Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 1,909 Thanks: 8 Thanked 65 Times in 62 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (5/100% )	It's in my car, but I can get it in the morning. "Yes, they are separate from the valve cover gasket. So there are 4 gromets under the nuts that hold down the valve cover and one big rubber seal that goes all the way around between the valve cover and head." Ok, so do I need to replace those rubber gromets? If so, what do I ask for? Is there a difference between getting a gasket from Toyota vs checker/auto zone?

02-26-2007, 03:48 AM	#7 (permalink)
PearlJammzz Cage Fighter Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 1,909 Thanks: 8 Thanked 65 Times in 62 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (5/100% )	And yes, there is a slight tick I have always noticed. Never thought much of it as my car has ran beautifully since I got it.

02-26-2007, 09:41 AM	#8 (permalink)
PearlJammzz Cage Fighter Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 1,909 Thanks: 8 Thanked 65 Times in 62 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (5/100% )	k, it passed the idle test. I'll try to show the grid layout. Standard - HC(ppm) = 220 CO% = 1.20 Reading - HC(ppm) = 161 CO% = .21 Deviation - HC(ppm) = 59 CO% = 0.99 CO2% = 12.1 RPM = 791 Now for the High Speed Test... Standard - HC(ppm) = 220 CO% = 1.20 Reading - HC(ppm) = 738 CO% = 2.47 Deviation - HC(ppm) = -518 CO% = -1.27 CO2% = 11.2 RPM = 2595

02-26-2007, 05:01 PM	#9 (permalink)
mrturrari I <3 my 5sfe Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 418 Thanks: 2 Thanked 93 Times in 60 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	The grommets/gaskets you get from Checker or Autozone are fine. They might have a valve cover gasket kit that includes all of it. With high HCs like that you probably have a bad spark at higher RPMs. Replace the cap, rotor, wires and plugs to start with. Do you have the readings for NOx as well? Were they passing or not?

02-26-2007, 06:30 PM	#10 (permalink)
PearlJammzz Cage Fighter Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 1,909 Thanks: 8 Thanked 65 Times in 62 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (5/100% )	Nope, that's all the paper had on it besides the visuals. I just bought some Bosh platinum plugs, wires, gasket + spark plug hole gromets, dist cap and rotor, new air filter (all that had was fram, but iot's a stock 5sfe..sure it wont matter), then oil and oil filter. 180 smacks but the 2 should run a LOT better and I am guessing pass with flying colors. The reason for the bad spark is my lil bro didn't drivei t around before it was tested (I was in Vegas, he took it in for me) so I believe it had oil on 2 plugs still..takes a lil to burn it off. Hope this will help though. Now as far as replacing this stuff....How do I take the valve cover off? It's not like some other vehicles I've worked on (bolts around the outside edge). Seems I just turn the part that is right under the plug wires and it will all come off easily? Is there any sort of a sealent I will need to to use on the gasket/gromets? Thanks

02-27-2007, 02:27 AM	#11 (permalink)
PearlJammzz Cage Fighter Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 1,909 Thanks: 8 Thanked 65 Times in 62 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (5/100% )	I looked it up and it being a rubber gasket means that I don't need ot use any sealent (that only needs to be used on metal gaskets yes?).

02-28-2007, 02:08 AM	#12 (permalink)
mrturrari I <3 my 5sfe Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 418 Thanks: 2 Thanked 93 Times in 60 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	The valve cover comes off by removing the 4 big nuts on the spark plug tubes. They do not require any kind of sealant just the grommets under them if they are in good shape. The lower valve cover gasket requires sealant in the corners by the humps for the distributor and intake cam. Once you add sealant it usually fills the gaps and you don't have to keep adding it every time you take it off. Good luck on the inspection.

02-28-2007, 02:12 AM	#13 (permalink)
PearlJammzz Cage Fighter Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 1,909 Thanks: 8 Thanked 65 Times in 62 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (5/100% )	Thanks . I looked ta it closely today and it appeared to be leakin a little oil over my the dist. Now you say lower valve cover gasket....is there 2? I went to checker and looked it up on the computer and got just 1 rubber one that goes around the outside and then the 4 grommets. and I guess I'll have to go get some sealent then if it's needed.

02-28-2007, 03:08 PM	#14 (permalink)
mrturrari I <3 my 5sfe Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 418 Thanks: 2 Thanked 93 Times in 60 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Sorry, that was the one I meant. There are just the grommets and the main gasket. For sealant I just use copper RTV (high temp silicone). The BGB shows the spots you need to put it.

02-28-2007, 04:05 PM	#15 (permalink)
PearlJammzz Cage Fighter Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 1,909 Thanks: 8 Thanked 65 Times in 62 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (5/100% )	Cool, well I believe that's all my questions. I'll keep you guys posted Saturday on when I do this and take it in....hopefully all will be well

03-04-2007, 02:06 AM	#16 (permalink)
PearlJammzz Cage Fighter Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 1,909 Thanks: 8 Thanked 65 Times in 62 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (5/100% )	Update: well, didn't get it emissions tested today, but I did get her going again. She runs strong, a LOT stronger idle, and the warm idle is about 150-200rpm higher (sittin between 950 and 1k...this high?)

03-10-2007, 03:34 PM	#17 (permalink)
PearlJammzz Cage Fighter Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 1,909 Thanks: 8 Thanked 65 Times in 62 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (5/100% )	Got it tested today and everything passed. Thanks guys .