How reliable is the 5S-FE?

wagonis · 03-27-2007, 07:59 PM

Ever since I got this car I can't help but drive it as if I was playing a real live version of Grand Turismo. My car has 159,000 miles on it and I worry I'll break something eventually the way I drive. How reliable is this engine exactley?

AndrewMcG · 03-27-2007, 08:01 PM

Its a very reliable engine. Only thing I ever see break on those(when not turbo'd) is spinning a rod bearing. Just make sure you change the oil every ~3,000 miles and keep the oil level filled to the top.

fidget · 03-27-2007, 08:09 PM

Bah thats what happened to mine -.-

2nd on keeping the oil filled and a working low oil light

TomsMR2 · 03-27-2007, 08:13 PM

theres a drastic difference between spinning rod bearings, and wiping rod bearings. most 5sfes just wipe out the bearing (which means you can pull the pan and replace with 9 out of 10 times).

i bring mine up to 6K cold all the, and just generally abuse and beat the hell out of it. its running great without issues.

the oiling system is weak, so make sure its always full.. or go ahead and change the pump if you have doubts.

wagonis · 03-27-2007, 09:18 PM

You know, that is one thing I noticed about the car, the oil got low a couple of times, but I see no leaks. Am I burning up oil by reving it high?

TomsMR2 · 03-27-2007, 09:23 PM

probably from leaky valve seals like 99% of mr2's have.. burns on startup mostly.

wagonis · 03-27-2007, 09:30 PM

Guess there is no easy fix for that huh? Or at least none that I've ever heard of.

AndrewMcG · 03-27-2007, 10:09 PM

Take the head off, bring it to a machine shop and have them do a valve job. Replacing the guides and valve stem seals will cure that problem. If you do the R&R work yourself you can probably do the job for about $400-$500 including the valve job and gaskets.

wagonis · 03-27-2007, 11:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AndrewMcG

Take the head off, bring it to a machine shop and have them do a valve job. Replacing the guides and valve stem seals will cure that problem. If you do the R&R work yourself you can probably do the job for about $400-$500 including the valve job and gaskets.

Holy hell, $400-$500 if I do the work myself? How much would it be if I took it to a machine shop?

TomsMR2 · 03-27-2007, 11:55 PM

50 for the headgasket, 30 for the stem seals.. im paying 90 for a clean/resurface at the machine shop now since my old one closed

i lap my own valves in.. the lap kit cost me maybe 20 bucks, and it'll do 50+ heads.

id pay a machine shop to do the valve job if the lapping shows an irregular wear pattern, or if im using oversized valves. ive yet to need a valve job on stock valves.

AndrewMcG · 03-28-2007, 12:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wagonis

Holy hell, $400-$500 if I do the work myself? How much would it be if I took it to a machine shop?

No no no. I was saying that much if you do the R&R work. That means remove and replace. Im not talking about the machine work. A machine shop will probably charge you about $300 to wash your head, glass bead it, tear it down, replace valve guides, face the valves, grind the seats, assemble the head with new valve stem seals, surface the head, and then adjust the valves for proper clearance. Then another $100 or so you will spend in various gaskets and liquids you need to put the motor back together.

TomsMR2 · 03-28-2007, 12:24 AM

you really really really dont need that much work to replace valve seals. you really dont even have to remove the head if you have the valve keeper tool.

wagonis · 03-28-2007, 12:31 AM

Is there a write up on replacing the valve seals?

CyFi · 03-28-2007, 01:07 AM

just put a rope down into the cylinder

wagonis · 03-28-2007, 01:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CyFi

just put a rope down into the cylinder

Say what?

xinkid · 03-28-2007, 01:22 AM

You must stuff the rope into the cylinder to make sure that it supports the valve from underneath so it won't drop in.

TomsMR2 · 03-28-2007, 01:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CyFi

just put a rope down into the cylinder

its a little more involved than that

its like doing a timing belt.. but a step further as you actually remove the cams and valve train. its fairly involved. for the amount of work, just top your oil off periodically.

CyFi · 03-28-2007, 01:34 AM

rope>valve stem seals, therefore it must fix it

AndrewMcG · 03-28-2007, 02:13 AM

Quote:

03-27-2007, 07:59 PM	#1 (permalink)
wagonis Cage Fighter Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Tampa Bay area, FL Posts: 847 Thanks: 44 Thanked 15 Times in 15 Posts iTrader Rating: (4/100% )	How reliable is the 5S-FE? Ever since I got this car I can't help but drive it as if I was playing a real live version of Grand Turismo. My car has 159,000 miles on it and I worry I'll break something eventually the way I drive. How reliable is this engine exactley?

03-27-2007, 08:01 PM	#2 (permalink)
AndrewMcG Its not lag, Its foreplay Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Albuquerque Posts: 719 Thanks: 6 Thanked 17 Times in 15 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (3/100% )	Its a very reliable engine. Only thing I ever see break on those(when not turbo'd) is spinning a rod bearing. Just make sure you change the oil every ~3,000 miles and keep the oil level filled to the top.

03-27-2007, 08:09 PM	#3 (permalink)
fidget No Skills Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Jacksonville Florida Posts: 204 Thanks: 6 Thanked 8 Times in 8 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Bah thats what happened to mine -.- 2nd on keeping the oil filled and a working low oil light

03-27-2007, 08:13 PM	#4 (permalink)
TomsMR2 Formerly Tom Brokaw Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Bay Area Posts: 2,138 Thanks: 8 Thanked 165 Times in 138 Posts Blog Entries: 1 iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	theres a drastic difference between spinning rod bearings, and wiping rod bearings. most 5sfes just wipe out the bearing (which means you can pull the pan and replace with 9 out of 10 times). i bring mine up to 6K cold all the, and just generally abuse and beat the hell out of it. its running great without issues. the oiling system is weak, so make sure its always full.. or go ahead and change the pump if you have doubts.

03-27-2007, 09:18 PM	#5 (permalink)
wagonis Cage Fighter Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Tampa Bay area, FL Posts: 847 Thanks: 44 Thanked 15 Times in 15 Posts iTrader Rating: (4/100% )	You know, that is one thing I noticed about the car, the oil got low a couple of times, but I see no leaks. Am I burning up oil by reving it high?

03-27-2007, 09:23 PM	#6 (permalink)
TomsMR2 Formerly Tom Brokaw Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Bay Area Posts: 2,138 Thanks: 8 Thanked 165 Times in 138 Posts Blog Entries: 1 iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	probably from leaky valve seals like 99% of mr2's have.. burns on startup mostly.

03-27-2007, 09:30 PM	#7 (permalink)
wagonis Cage Fighter Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Tampa Bay area, FL Posts: 847 Thanks: 44 Thanked 15 Times in 15 Posts iTrader Rating: (4/100% )	Guess there is no easy fix for that huh? Or at least none that I've ever heard of.

03-27-2007, 10:09 PM	#8 (permalink)
AndrewMcG Its not lag, Its foreplay Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Albuquerque Posts: 719 Thanks: 6 Thanked 17 Times in 15 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (3/100% )	Take the head off, bring it to a machine shop and have them do a valve job. Replacing the guides and valve stem seals will cure that problem. If you do the R&R work yourself you can probably do the job for about $400-$500 including the valve job and gaskets.

03-27-2007, 11:55 PM	#10 (permalink)
TomsMR2 Formerly Tom Brokaw Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Bay Area Posts: 2,138 Thanks: 8 Thanked 165 Times in 138 Posts Blog Entries: 1 iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	50 for the headgasket, 30 for the stem seals.. im paying 90 for a clean/resurface at the machine shop now since my old one closed i lap my own valves in.. the lap kit cost me maybe 20 bucks, and it'll do 50+ heads. id pay a machine shop to do the valve job if the lapping shows an irregular wear pattern, or if im using oversized valves. ive yet to need a valve job on stock valves.

03-28-2007, 12:24 AM	#12 (permalink)
TomsMR2 Formerly Tom Brokaw Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Bay Area Posts: 2,138 Thanks: 8 Thanked 165 Times in 138 Posts Blog Entries: 1 iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	you really really really dont need that much work to replace valve seals. you really dont even have to remove the head if you have the valve keeper tool.

03-28-2007, 12:31 AM	#13 (permalink)
wagonis Cage Fighter Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Tampa Bay area, FL Posts: 847 Thanks: 44 Thanked 15 Times in 15 Posts iTrader Rating: (4/100% )	Is there a write up on replacing the valve seals?

03-28-2007, 01:07 AM	#14 (permalink)
CyFi ShamWOW! Join Date: Oct 2005 Posts: 1,390 Thanks: 12 Thanked 38 Times in 35 Posts iTrader Rating: (10/100% )	just put a rope down into the cylinder

03-28-2007, 01:22 AM	#16 (permalink)
xinkid No Skills Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 46 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	You must stuff the rope into the cylinder to make sure that it supports the valve from underneath so it won't drop in.

03-28-2007, 01:34 AM	#18 (permalink)
CyFi ShamWOW! Join Date: Oct 2005 Posts: 1,390 Thanks: 12 Thanked 38 Times in 35 Posts iTrader Rating: (10/100% )	rope>valve stem seals, therefore it must fix it