help! bleeder screw broke off!

singleslammer · 09-02-2007, 09:50 PM

I was changing the rear brakes out on my 93 NA non-ABS and went to clamp the piston back into the caliper and managed to break the clamp. So, got second clamp and started to try again. this time I was going to open the bleeder screw to relieve pressure and then clamp. Unfortunately the screw broke off with very little of the remaining screw still exposed. What should I do? Can I just replace the screw? If I can, how so? I need to get my car out of my friends garage soon. Thanks, Jordan

TomsMR2 · 09-03-2007, 03:14 PM

first, the rear calipers dont clamp in

they screw in, you need a brake cube tool to screw them in. its a hassle, but thats the only way to do it.

now, you can either buy an easyout and pray to god it works and you dont gouge the threads, and replace the screw (they're about 5 bucks).. or just buy a reman caliper for 30 bucks and save the hassle. personally, id just buy the reman, chances are your caliper could use a rebuild/replace anyway.

Mister2.2 · 09-03-2007, 03:20 PM

Where are you buying a re-manufactured caliper for $30 Tom?

singleslammer · 09-03-2007, 08:14 PM

Thanks for the info Tom. that is EXTREMELY helpful.

I also want to know where to go for 30 dollar remans. Orielly's qouted me 85 plus 50 dollar core.

TomsMR2 · 09-04-2007, 01:59 AM

sorry, those were fronts for 37 bucks. cheapest im finding rears for is 73 at rockauto.com !

wesnemo · 09-05-2007, 10:17 PM

If the bleeder is frozen enough to break off, go for the reman. Best insurance would be to do both rears at the same time.

Good brakes = sweet when you need them.

Gairloch · 09-05-2007, 11:47 PM

For that price I think I'd go for the easy out and a rebuild kit for a quarter the amount.

CyFi · 09-06-2007, 10:24 AM

thing is it it was tight enouch to snap the head off the screw it might be stuck too hard to remove with the easy out

singleslammer · 09-06-2007, 05:42 PM

Yeah, I am getting another caliper for sure. whether or not its a reman i dont know.

Luni · 09-06-2007, 05:44 PM

I think an easyout is a helluva lot stronger than the bleeder screw itself is, the screw is hollow, its easy to break.

Id try extracting it first, then rebuilding both rears and putting new bleeder screws in.

Also when putting them in, use teflon tape on the threads. It will keep them from locking, and it will keep them from loosening too.

I also wanna add, when rebuilding rears, if your emergency brake mechanism works properly, you can totally skip the part where you replace the stuff in that mechanism. So just pull put the piston, put the new seals on it, and put the new boot on and use the assembly lubrication stuff they give (its the pink stuff) with the rebuild kit.

Thats how I rebuilt my rears and they work good as new now.

Gairloch · 09-06-2007, 05:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CyFi

thing is it it was tight enouch to snap the head off the screw it might be stuck too hard to remove with the easy out

There's not much you can't get out with a good easy-out. Especially if you soak it in penetrating oil first. The way the rotational force is delivered is very different than how it's delivered with a wrench on the screw head.

TomsMR2 · 09-06-2007, 08:53 PM

rebuilding the rears is fairly difficult. its certainly do-able, but that damned snap-ring sucks pretty bad.

Luni · 09-07-2007, 12:03 PM

I didnt have any problems with rebuilding my rears.

It was certainly easier than the dual piston fronts IMO.

TomsMR2 · 09-07-2007, 07:49 PM

i just rebuilt my dual piston fronts.. its easy with compressed air. id do that all day long over that damn snapring!

09-02-2007, 09:50 PM	#1 (permalink)
singleslammer Soon to be feeling the v6 Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Columbia, MO Posts: 265 Thanks: 8 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	help! bleeder screw broke off! I was changing the rear brakes out on my 93 NA non-ABS and went to clamp the piston back into the caliper and managed to break the clamp. So, got second clamp and started to try again. this time I was going to open the bleeder screw to relieve pressure and then clamp. Unfortunately the screw broke off with very little of the remaining screw still exposed. What should I do? Can I just replace the screw? If I can, how so? I need to get my car out of my friends garage soon. Thanks, Jordan

09-03-2007, 03:20 PM	#3 (permalink)
Mister2.2 Cheese it! Join Date: Feb 2005 Posts: 6,220 Thanks: 106 Thanked 107 Times in 92 Posts Blog Entries: 1 My Google Map iTrader Rating: (3/100% )	Where are you buying a re-manufactured caliper for $30 Tom? __________________ --Josh MR2Trader.com Free Accounts to Buy and Sell your MR2 Parts! Deal of the Week: MR2Only Magazine, Get it NOW! Click Here. Ask me about Web Hosting Solutions, starting at $5.95 a month. 'I am at two with nature.' 'Students achieving Oneness will move on to Twoness.'

09-05-2007, 11:47 PM	#7 (permalink)
Gairloch Dreaming of apexes Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Minneapolis, MN Posts: 4,472 Thanks: 115 Thanked 223 Times in 196 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (7/100% )	For that price I think I'd go for the easy out and a rebuild kit for a quarter the amount. __________________ "Inside the car, the world beyond the driver's immediate horizon ceases to exist. Alone with the solitude of his desire, survival sense numbed by the speed, he's outrun the mediocrity of the outside world, slipped the shackles it tries to clamp on us all. He is running free, chased only by a fear of failure, for failure is to risk ejection into the real world." ~Mark Hughes

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Posted By	For	Type	Date
Toyota MR2 Message Board	This thread	Refback	09-07-2007 10:14 PM

09-03-2007, 03:14 PM	#2 (permalink)
TomsMR2 Formerly Tom Brokaw Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Bay Area Posts: 2,138 Thanks: 8 Thanked 165 Times in 138 Posts Blog Entries: 1 iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	first, the rear calipers dont clamp in they screw in, you need a brake cube tool to screw them in. its a hassle, but thats the only way to do it. now, you can either buy an easyout and pray to god it works and you dont gouge the threads, and replace the screw (they're about 5 bucks).. or just buy a reman caliper for 30 bucks and save the hassle. personally, id just buy the reman, chances are your caliper could use a rebuild/replace anyway.

09-03-2007, 08:14 PM	#4 (permalink)
singleslammer Soon to be feeling the v6 Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Columbia, MO Posts: 265 Thanks: 8 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Thanks for the info Tom. that is EXTREMELY helpful. I also want to know where to go for 30 dollar remans. Orielly's qouted me 85 plus 50 dollar core.

09-04-2007, 01:59 AM	#5 (permalink)
TomsMR2 Formerly Tom Brokaw Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Bay Area Posts: 2,138 Thanks: 8 Thanked 165 Times in 138 Posts Blog Entries: 1 iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	sorry, those were fronts for 37 bucks. cheapest im finding rears for is 73 at rockauto.com !

09-05-2007, 10:17 PM	#6 (permalink)
wesnemo wesnemo Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Northeast PA Posts: 274 Thanks: 11 Thanked 15 Times in 9 Posts iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	If the bleeder is frozen enough to break off, go for the reman. Best insurance would be to do both rears at the same time. Good brakes = sweet when you need them.

09-06-2007, 10:24 AM	#8 (permalink)
CyFi ShamWOW! Join Date: Oct 2005 Posts: 1,390 Thanks: 12 Thanked 38 Times in 35 Posts iTrader Rating: (10/100% )	thing is it it was tight enouch to snap the head off the screw it might be stuck too hard to remove with the easy out

09-06-2007, 05:42 PM	#9 (permalink)
singleslammer Soon to be feeling the v6 Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Columbia, MO Posts: 265 Thanks: 8 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Yeah, I am getting another caliper for sure. whether or not its a reman i dont know.

09-06-2007, 05:44 PM	#10 (permalink)
Luni ST185 Powered SW20 Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Salt Lake City Utah Posts: 2,740 Thanks: 7 Thanked 95 Times in 81 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (8/100% )	I think an easyout is a helluva lot stronger than the bleeder screw itself is, the screw is hollow, its easy to break. Id try extracting it first, then rebuilding both rears and putting new bleeder screws in. Also when putting them in, use teflon tape on the threads. It will keep them from locking, and it will keep them from loosening too. I also wanna add, when rebuilding rears, if your emergency brake mechanism works properly, you can totally skip the part where you replace the stuff in that mechanism. So just pull put the piston, put the new seals on it, and put the new boot on and use the assembly lubrication stuff they give (its the pink stuff) with the rebuild kit. Thats how I rebuilt my rears and they work good as new now.

09-06-2007, 08:53 PM	#12 (permalink)
TomsMR2 Formerly Tom Brokaw Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Bay Area Posts: 2,138 Thanks: 8 Thanked 165 Times in 138 Posts Blog Entries: 1 iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	rebuilding the rears is fairly difficult. its certainly do-able, but that damned snap-ring sucks pretty bad.

09-07-2007, 12:03 PM	#13 (permalink)
Luni ST185 Powered SW20 Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Salt Lake City Utah Posts: 2,740 Thanks: 7 Thanked 95 Times in 81 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (8/100% )	I didnt have any problems with rebuilding my rears. It was certainly easier than the dual piston fronts IMO.

09-07-2007, 07:49 PM	#14 (permalink)
TomsMR2 Formerly Tom Brokaw Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Bay Area Posts: 2,138 Thanks: 8 Thanked 165 Times in 138 Posts Blog Entries: 1 iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	i just rebuilt my dual piston fronts.. its easy with compressed air. id do that all day long over that damn snapring!