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#1 (permalink) |
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Cheese it!
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,173
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My Google Map iTrader Rating: (3/100% ) |
91-95 NA Brake Part Numbers
Disc Fitting Kit: Includes 8 clips, 4 each side for the rear caliper (2 for each pad)
Part number: 04948-17030 Price: $14.59 Disc Brake Pad Kit, includes 4 rear brake pads Part Number: 04466-17030 Price: $55.44 All parts bought at Toyota. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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ding!
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: nj/fla
Posts: 531
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stickyed this real quick. Thanks josh!
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#3 (permalink) |
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Many Many Skills
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Fairfax, VA
Posts: 106
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These are the same part #'s for 1993-1995, correct?
EDIT: Yeah, they are. Last edited by KyleScha; 04-25-2006 at 02:34 PM. |
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#4 (permalink) | |
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GenIII Powered
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 216
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Thanked 15 Times in 13 Posts
iTrader Rating: (3/100% ) |
Quote:
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#5 (permalink) |
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Cheese it!
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,173
Thanks: 106
Thanked 104 Times in 89 Posts
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My Google Map iTrader Rating: (3/100% ) |
Thanks Matt, thats correct.
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#6 (permalink) |
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Some Skills
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I am a total Noob so forgive me if I ask stupid questions.
What is the differance from brakes on a Turbo and a na? I plan to, probably a year or more down the road do a swap. But I need new brakes now. Could I go ahead and have the same brake setup a turbo has now? Before I do the swap? and what would I need, other than pads? |
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#7 (permalink) |
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No Skills
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91-95 n/a Brakes
* 1 piston front caliper * 1 piston rear caliper * 7/8" master cylinder * 10.16" front vented rotors * 10.34" rear vented rotors 91-92 Turbo Brakes * 2 piston front caliper * 1 piston rear caliper * same master cylinder as n/a * same rotors as n/a 93-95 Turbo Brakes * 2 piston front caliper (larger capacity than the older 2 piston calipers) with different caliper carriers to accommodate the larger rotors. * 1 piston rear caliper with different caliper carriers to accommodate the larger rotors. * 10.84" front vented rotors (much wider venting) * 11.06" rear vented rotors * 15/16" master cylinder with different proportioning valve Last edited by eggroller; 11-14-2007 at 01:09 PM. Reason: Update information about rotor diameters and master cylinder sizes |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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Dreaming of apexes
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Minneapolis, MN
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Quote:
Strongly encouraged to also get:
Not so important:
You're not going to see much difference between turbo and NA brakes in a daily driver unless you're driving too hard for public streets. If you're using the car on the track where heat becomes an issue then using a high quality brake pad, DOT4 brake fluid and stainless steel lines is also a pretty good idea.
__________________
"Inside the car, the world beyond the driver's immediate horizon ceases to exist. Alone with the solitude of his desire, survival sense numbed by the speed, he's outrun the mediocrity of the outside world, slipped the shackles it tries to clamp on us all. He is running free, chased only by a fear of failure, for failure is to risk ejection into the real world." ~Mark Hughes BATracer 1986 Formula 1 Championship - Opened 7/26/08 |
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Dreaming of apexes
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 4,264
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Quote:
) If you are using the car for HPDE or autox where threshold braking is important then yes, you do need the prop valve. Without it you end up with a rear brake bias.I have the Earl's Hyperfirm SS lines on my car and am thoroughly unimpressed by them. They do the job but the fitment is rubbish. When you're shopping for SS lines make sure that whatever you end up with is coated. Uncoated SS lines can have sand and gunk get caught in the weave and cause corrosion. If you're more interested in stopping well than you are in bling then just say no to crossdrilled/slotted rotors. Check out the braking forum for more information. |
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