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Old 12-16-2007, 05:52 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Frozen E-Brakes

It snowed here in OH and I tried to drive my 91 NA and I was wondering why it was having a hard time backing up....then I remembered how the E-Brake gets stuck 4 other ppl...

I ended up driving it up and down the parking lot until it heated up and then It released again...
what do I do to unfreeze my E-brake w/o wearing it out next time/?
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Old 12-16-2007, 08:22 PM   #2 (permalink)
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hey mark it seems like ur havin so much problem with that 2 lol sale it lol j/k
.......well chk ur break pads or maybe u just have to go to toyota dealer and let them chk it...
or maybe u just need to lube that E-break...
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Old 12-16-2007, 11:34 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Could be a caliper sticking....I had a 91T that did that all the time in the cold.
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Old 12-16-2007, 11:44 PM   #4 (permalink)
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First off if it's sticking until you deal with it just don't put the e-brake on. If you continue having issues with it and you're not putting the e-brake on then it could be a caliper or two that needs rebuilding.

If it's just seizing up when it's cold you can try putting a penetrating oil on the e-brake mechanisms and hopefully that'll keep water out if that's the problem. There is a good chance however that the problem lies with your e-brake cables. If that's the case then pretty much all you can do is replace them.
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Old 12-17-2007, 12:31 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Hey guys, I have the exact opposite problem. When I pull my e-brake, the cables get tight as banjo strings, but it doesnt engage the calipers. Do I need new calipers, or can the be free'd up?
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Old 12-17-2007, 01:16 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Depends on whether the problem is the calipers or the cables. I've seen e-brake cables get completely frozen. Look at the end of the cable and see if it looks like it's corroded.

If it doesn't I'd soak the bit on the caliper with PB Blaster (or whatever penetrating oil you prefer) every day for a couple of weeks and see what happens.
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Old 12-17-2007, 03:03 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I think its just cuz its cold outside..i mean freezing rain, and snow...but I know that pads needs replacement soon anyway...if that keeps up...then i'll do sum caliper works
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Old 12-17-2007, 11:15 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Just to make sure you understand; your pads have absolutely nothing to do with the calipers sticking.
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Old 12-17-2007, 12:25 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I've been told a good rule is to not use the e brake in the winter...sticks for many people. Better yet, show some lovin to your 2 and store it, get a beater!
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Old 12-17-2007, 05:09 PM   #10 (permalink)
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mr2s are great winter cars. a little cold weather is a crappy excuse to stop driving it.

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Hey guys, I have the exact opposite problem. When I pull my e-brake, the cables get tight as banjo strings, but it doesnt engage the calipers. Do I need new calipers, or can the be free'd up?
but it starts clicking a little higher than normal right? your cables are siezed.. jack the car up and watch the caliper arm while someone pulls the ebrake, i bet you they wont move at all (indicating siezed cables).

you just pull the small pin out of the caliper arm and unhook the cable. with the cable off you can pull the ebrake and see if the cable moves. its almost always going to be the cable thats bad.
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Old 12-17-2007, 08:46 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Its a very common thing for our ebrake cables to freeze up and die in the winter months.

I had the issue with mine and I had to replace the cables. took care of it, that was 4 years ago. Mine still work.
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Old 12-18-2007, 11:18 PM   #12 (permalink)
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OK, ill check the cables. I agree with Bern, my car is in the garage for the winter. I have a truck I drive in the snow, so the cold weather has nothing to do with the e-brake not working. It has not worked since I owned the car (got it in Feb). Tom, yes you are exactly right, the handle clicks higher than normal, accually, it only clicks once and that is when I pull it really hard. Guess ill have my buddy at Toyota get me some. Are there aftermarket ones or do you recomend the stock yota ones?

And is it a bitch to change them?
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Old 12-19-2007, 12:33 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Its easy to change them, and I recommend toyota ones.

For you mx you might just need to adjust yours. Theres an adjustment fork down underneath the car, directly below the ebrake handle (have to remove some underbody plastics to get to), you might just be able to adjust it and make it work)

Adjust yours before replacing the cables.
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Old 12-23-2007, 12:15 AM   #14 (permalink)
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the aftermarket ones are drastically cheaper. its a steel cable, its fine. ive had my aftermarket ones for a few years now.. they pull the brakes and stop the car, they're fine and im sure will continue to be fine for years.

if you just *have* to have oem parts and dont mind spending tons more on the same thing.. then by all means i wouldnt be even remotely concerned with aftermarket cables.
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Old 12-23-2007, 11:34 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I already adjusted the cables thinking that that was it, but to no avail. Tom, where did you get your cables from and how much if you can remember.
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Old 12-23-2007, 02:42 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I got mine from checkerauto.com for ~$45 apiece.
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Old 12-24-2007, 12:36 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I looked on checkerauto.com and only found 1 cable. Is that the front cable? How did you find your cableS on their site?
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Old 12-24-2007, 12:49 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I did just check on napaonline and found the right and left cables, but they say they are only for the NA. Do the NA cables fit on the turbo? if so, i can get them for 48 apiece.
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Old 12-24-2007, 02:01 PM   #19 (permalink)
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No, there's no difference between the NA and turbo cables.
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Old 12-25-2007, 02:42 AM   #20 (permalink)
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