Fidanza light flywheel in a 5SFE HELP!!!!!

[KaDuWin]

Has anyone ever put a Fidanza light flywheel in a 5SFE? Does it make it faster or slower? I know that Centrifugal force plays a part in this equation, some people with their 3SGTEs say their car is less torquie with it in than with the stock. They said that they had to rev up the engine much further off the line and almost dump the clutch to make up for the difference in weight. But considering the nature of an NA engine especially the 5SFE I was wondering if the outcome is the same? Some people say that the light fly wheel in their AW11 worked fine and they didn't notice themselves reving up the engine anymore than before they did it. I wonna put a centerforce clutch in and pair it with a Fidanza flywheel. I use this car as my daily driver and I want to make it faster. I have to replace the clutch so I figured maybe while I was doing the clutch I would consider replacing the oem flywheel with a Fidanza. Should I do it? Is it advisable?

[shimric]

I'm pretty sure it won't make you faster or slower from what I've read in the past.

If you want to make the 5sfe faster. IMO Look at doing a 5stfe.

[KaDuWin]

Originally Posted by shimric

I'm pretty sure it won't make you faster or slower from what I've read in the past.

If you want to make the 5sfe faster. IMO Look at doing a 5stfe.

Nah thanks, I don't wonna turbo charge the engine. I am just looking to do the clutch and maybe make a gain in performance by doing a lighter fly wheel, and was hoping to achieve a higher whp rating.

[mrturrari]

I have one and in addition a lighter crank pulley, forged internals and a Spec stage 3 clutch. The car is a little harder to get off the line but easy to get used to. The lighter flywheel will make your car slightly faster but it will not show up on the dyno because a dyno can only measure instantaneous torque. Also by itself it is not really that noticeable.

Is it worth $300? Not if all you are looking for is a higher HP number but the engine revs a bit quicker and I personally like the feel.

[TomsMR2]

i usually forget i even have one.. other people who own na mr2s who drive mine dont notice any difference.

[KaDuWin]

Nah I was really just looking to put more power to the rear wheels, I will most likely have to replace the flywheel any way and the way I figure is if I have to replace the flywheel any way and for the difference in price I might as well upgrade the flywheel to one that is lighter. Do you lose any of torquie feel from the engine? or is it the same?

[KaDuWin]

Do you lose the torquie feel from the engine? or is it the same? I don't want to take a step backwards. One of the things that I love about my MR2 is the torque I don't necessarily want to sacrifice that.

[VTsuckah131]

You don't gain or lose HP or torque by adding a lightened flywheel. All you're doing is decreasing some weight and rotational inertia. It will allow your car to rev a bit faster. That is all.

[sickof5sfe]

Replacing a flywheel on its own with the stock clutch will barely be noticeable...and even with an aftermarket clutch it still wont make a huge difference...but if you want to transmit more of the power to the ground then go with like a street clutch and a lightweight flywheel.

[TomsMR2]

the stock clutch is WAAAY more than capable of holding stock (or more) power. buying a "sport" clutch is just a quick way to waste your money.

[KaDuWin]

Originally Posted by TomsMR2

the stock clutch is WAAAY more than capable of holding stock (or more) power. buying a "sport" clutch is just a quick way to waste your money.

My mechanic said that he recommended a centerforce clutch just as highly as the oem Toyota clutch. And I can get one which supposedly has slightly higher clamping force than stock one or so they claim. And I can get it for 30 dollars more, so I figure it might be worth the extra couple of bucks if I can get a clutch which has a more racey feel to it as far as engagement and disengagement. I find that, that is the only draw back with the MR2 clutch. It engages/disengages in stages, which is good for making it easy to drive but for an enthusiastic driver such as myself, I want something that is little more precise in its movements and actions. You know what I mean? I know race clutches or even the clutch in my dads BMW is more of a performance clutch in its feel, where if you move the clutch it disengages/engages faster with less movement of the pedal. I don't want to have to mess with the free play settings of the pedals to get that either, I wonna keep the settings the way they came. If that is what I am after do you think I am better off with a factory clutch, especially if I put a Fidanza light flywheel in there too. Or do you recommend that I completely forget the aftermarket upgrades and just stick to the factory parts (clutch and flywheel)?

[TomsMR2]

ive tracked my car on the stock clutch, theres absolutely nothing wrong with it. id take an oem clutch over a centerforce every day of the week.

if your clutch doesnt feel right, you probably need to adjust it. clutches are made to not slip, if its not slipping its doing its job and you cant upgrade anymore. stock clutches dont slip.

id take the money and put it towards something useful, like cams. the 5sfe is the kind of motor that you really need to bark up the right tree with, or you just waste all your money.

[KaDuWin]

Originally Posted by TomsMR2

ive tracked my car on the stock clutch, theres absolutely nothing wrong with it. id take an oem clutch over a centerforce every day of the week.

if your clutch doesnt feel right, you probably need to adjust it. clutches are made to not slip, if its not slipping its doing its job and you cant upgrade anymore. stock clutches dont slip.

id take the money and put it towards something useful, like cams. the 5sfe is the kind of motor that you really need to bark up the right tree with, or you just waste all your money.

Oh believe me I know had intention of trying to get more HP out of a clutch or flywheel I was simply asking if it would help me get more HP to the ground, I know it does help in other applications (just as an example in the McLaren F1, which has an unbelievably small flywheel, almost nonexistant really) and I just want a more precise engagement and disengagement with my clutch, it doesn't slip I just want something that has more of a race car characteristsic in its performance. I know what you mean as far as the engine is concerned, I was thinking of rebuilding my engine at some point down the road, here is what I had planned

Over bore .20
10.5 compression ratio pistons
pueter rods
Web Camshafts
Micro-hone the entire engine
5 angle valve job
port polish
Remap the ECU
Blue Flame dual or quad exit exhaust
Huxracing intake upgrade with 70mm throttle body
3sgte exhaust manifold
K&N typhoon air filter
Ferrera 1 MM over sized intake and exhaust valves
Titanium springs and retainers
Walbro fuel pump
250cc injectors
Fidanza flywheel
Toga High flow oil pump
Toga valve seals

and that is all I can think of off the top of my head right now, I know I am leaving quite a bit out, the only thing that has been holding me back from doing this work is money, the parts are expensive for my budget and the work is just as expensive as the parts. I would do it myself but I no longer have the engine crane, the tools, or the work space that I once did.

[wesnemo]

You have an ambitious list on the rebuild. It is also an expensive list. You may want to read through the NA threads here and on the place that shall remain nameless to get a better feel for the cost benefit analysis of the items on your list.

Since you already suffer from the dread "fundsalow," you may wish to direct your attention and $$ to the necessary things.

The flywheel is most simply an inertia storage device. It is an aid to getting the car rolling from a stop. If heavier, it is easier to get the car rolling. That benefit comes at a cost. The engine must expend part of its power to spin the heavier flywheel. Once on the roll, your car should accelerate faster with a lighter flywheel than with a heavier one. A heavier flywheel will also cause the engine to exert less engine "braking effect" on a downshift.

Above all, do not spend $$ on bigger wheels and tires. Bigger and heavier means more for the engine to move.

[KaDuWin]

Originally Posted by wesnemo

You have an ambitious list on the rebuild. It is also an expensive list. You may want to read through the NA threads here and on the place that shall remain nameless to get a better feel for the cost benefit analysis of the items on your list.

Since you already suffer from the dread "fundsalow," you may wish to direct your attention and $$ to the necessary things.

The flywheel is most simply an inertia storage device. It is an aid to getting the car rolling from a stop. If heavier, it is easier to get the car rolling. That benefit comes at a cost. The engine must expend part of its power to spin the heavier flywheel. Once on the roll, your car should accelerate faster with a lighter flywheel than with a heavier one. A heavier flywheel will also cause the engine to exert less engine "braking effect" on a downshift.

Above all, do not spend $$ on bigger wheels and tires. Bigger and heavier means more for the engine to move.

Yeah the list is way over 3 grand just in parts alone, not including any of the labor, and I didn't even include everything either I know I forgot some stuff. People make it sound so hard to get power out of the 5SFE but its not hard, even with out a turbo, I personally love NA engines, the exhaust note is better, the throttle response is crisper, and the car are typically lighter because of the lack of extra plumbing, extra fluids, etc.

I did the bigger wheels to increase grip and because I think the stock 91 rims are butt ugly and do the car no justice. My rims and tires help counter the snap back over steer problem too. Instead of changing the trailing arm, the springs, and the tire sizes, I increased the tire size by 3 inch (in width) and put a much stickier tire on it, so now I get the best of both worlds, extreme grip and no problems with snap back over steer.

[TomsMR2]

keep in mind that what you're proposing will cost more than a BEAMS swap, take more time, and be less reliable.

[KaDuWin]

Originally Posted by TomsMR2

keep in mind that what you're proposing will cost more than a BEAMS swap, take more time, and be less reliable.

Reworking the 5SFE will be less reliable than the beams engine?

I know that it will be more expensive and will take more time as far as projects are concerned, but I have been considering a few things, first if I buy a JDM engine I really don't know how it was treated by its previous owner, from the time it was uninstalled from the original car, up and till the time that it comes into my possession. (warranty or not I don't have time to install an engine and then uninstall and wait for a replacement if there is a problem.) With my current engine I know where I stand. Then there is a the whole issue of getting the BEAMS drilled for an EGR valve, and making sure I can pass emissions in my state which is retarded because my state is almost as tight about emissions as California for no reason. Then there is the issue of getting parts that are readily available for it, if I need something for my 5SFE I tend to think that it will be more readily available than if I get a JDM engine which was never available here. And I need to find a mechanic that knows how to work on it. This is only a personal preference and opinion, but I can't stand the sound of the Beams engine. I have heard it on youtube numerous times and it always sounds like a rice racer engine that has a tin can stuck on the back. I want to avoid that sound at all costs, (and I stress "at all costs") My 5SFE has a great sounding full stainless steel exhaust on it that came with the car, only I would prefer it be a little more throaty and deep. I always thought that the Beams engine would sound better than it does, I guess it just isn't quite what I am looking for.