Need help on getting my timing belt done

ZMR2 · 05-27-2008, 09:28 PM

I Know before I put the motor in I want to replace the timing belt water pump and all the others that way I dont have to do it in the car.
I cant find any write ups really, I need to know the how too- and where the exact location the teeth are supposed to be etc. There is already a belt on there but im not sure if its even good at all.
any help would be greatly appreciated, once I get my motor mounts and this Im ready to get her in! Pics will come then.

Gairloch · 05-27-2008, 09:30 PM

I have the best write up in the world for the MR2 right here for ya. For stuff like timing belts it's best to go straight to the BGB (big green book aka factory service manual.)

1991 mr2 repair manual

Good luck!

TomsMR2 · 05-28-2008, 06:21 AM

luckily, its REALLY easy.. probably the easiest mr2 timing belt to do.

you really need to be torquing stuff down though, so make sure you print out the torque specs and get a good feel for how the timing marks should look. with the engine out of the car you can blatantly see the cam notch and crank notch to indicate where it needs to be, and they kinda naturally sit in the right position.. so dont stress too much, if you need help its not hard to point someone in the right direction with these things.

you also should really replace your oil pump o ring and seal. it'll cost you 5 bucks and save yourself a million headaches. you NEED an inch pound and foot pound torque wrench (two separate ones, this is a must). i know some people dont listen to advice, so if you're going to skimp on one of them, at least get the inch pound one.

RideMR2 · 05-28-2008, 10:32 PM

Look into a timing belt kit, it comes with a new tensioner and idler.

O'reilly has a nice set.

TomsMR2 · 05-31-2008, 10:25 PM

you only have to replace them if they're bad (excessive play in the bearings). ive seen one bad one, and thats because it sat out in the rain forever. the other 4 or 5 ive seen at 150-180k have all been fine.. im unsure if they were replaced previously, but they were toyota bearings, and in good condition.

absolute worst case the belt breaks and you calmly coast to a stop.. but thats extremely uncommon anyway. sometimes the "might as well" items turn a 20 dollar job into a 200 dollar job, and you really dont benefit.

ZMR2 · 06-03-2008, 05:02 PM

Thanks for all the info again, I just have been trying to get an owners manual or get one online and it just wolnt work for me.
Im starting to run into a couple problems which has been slowing me back besides this

Gairloch · 06-03-2008, 06:24 PM

What problems are you having with the manual? You should be able to open it with Adobe Reader just fine ....

ZMR2 · 06-04-2008, 10:32 AM

My computer didnt come with that program

Gairloch · 06-04-2008, 02:15 PM

No, it didn't. You have to go to adobe.com and download then install it. All you need is adobe reader.

akwhitemr2 · 06-10-2008, 06:17 PM

If the all the timing marks are correctly aligned does the belt just slip on in any way or is the some special way you need to put the timing belt on. With a new tensioner and idler pully

Luni · 06-10-2008, 07:39 PM

For reference, if your timing belt is being replaced under routine maintenance, all you really need is the belt and the tensioner spring. DONT REUSE THE TENSIONER SPRING.

However, if you THROW a belt, you need to replace the idler and tensioner pulley, and the spring. And the belt.

And the belt only goes on one way, so just pay attention to how it comes out.

akwhitemr2 · 06-10-2008, 08:13 PM

how do you know it is the right way when you have a new belt?

Luni · 06-10-2008, 08:37 PM

The belt only goes on one way. The pulley configurations wont work correctly if you dont wrap the belt and feed it the correct way.

The only thing that you can really mess up are the timing marks.

Set your crank pulley to 0, put the lower timing cover on, pull the belt up, line the cam marks up, wrap the belt, tension it, spin the engine a few times to remove the slack, retension it, then check your timing marks again.

Just do what the BGB says and youll be ok.

akwhitemr2 · 06-11-2008, 04:10 PM

When the new belt is on on the pulleys properly what would happen if the intake camshaft was off by maybe 1 mm. I am looking at where the U in the camshaft is supposed to line up with the O on the timing cover. I thought it might be off a tooth but it is sooooooo close. It is 1mm early.

Luni · 06-11-2008, 04:15 PM

Is your engine in the car or out?

If its in the car, its hard to reference the horizon marks, and which way is DOWN, but you can use the cam marks.

Most important thing is the crank pulley is on the 0 mark on the lower timing cover. If the crank is dead on, and the cam seems SLIGHTLY off, its probably on.

If the engine is in the car, just tension it, put the rear mount and valve cover back on and start the car. If it starts and runs, let it run for a few minutes, (your battery will sustain it), and use your timing light with the TE1 and E1 terminals bridged, your timing mark should be dead on 10.

If its dead on, your marks are lined up. If its off, you prolly are off a tooth.

One thing I had to do to get it to line up is I had to actually place the cam off by a tooth and when I tensioned it it pulled the tooth out and was dead on. Last one I did was in the car and was a little tricky. I didnt have any problems lining everything up with the engine out of the car.

Hope this helps man. Its how I came to find my timing belt job was correct.

MR2SoFla · 09-16-2008, 11:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Luni

Is your engine in the car or out?

If its in the car, its hard to reference the horizon marks, and which way is DOWN, but you can use the cam marks.

Most important thing is the crank pulley is on the 0 mark on the lower timing cover. If the crank is dead on, and the cam seems SLIGHTLY off, its probably on.

If the engine is in the car, just tension it, put the rear mount and valve cover back on and start the car. If it starts and runs, let it run for a few minutes, (your battery will sustain it), and use your timing light with the TE1 and E1 terminals bridged, your timing mark should be dead on 10.

If its dead on, your marks are lined up. If its off, you prolly are off a tooth.

One thing I had to do to get it to line up is I had to actually place the cam off by a tooth and when I tensioned it it pulled the tooth out and was dead on. Last one I did was in the car and was a little tricky. I didnt have any problems lining everything up with the engine out of the car.

Hope this helps man. Its how I came to find my timing belt job was correct.

A lot of useful info on this thread so I'll send it back up with a question pertaining to timing marks with a new belt and new idler,tensioner w/spring, and wp.

My problem and it seems to have come up a few times here is when the belt gets tensioned - after hand turning a few times - my marks become off. So somehow when I align marks and put belt on (on cam gear) and then put under tension - I'm coming off a tooth or two. This is driving me nuts and has wasted a lot of my time

. So to perhaps compensate, as Luni suggested, should I move a tooth or two off? If so what direction with the cam gear? Thanks in advance.

Luni · 09-17-2008, 01:10 PM

Last time I did a 5S belt, I compensated by setting it off a tooth and it lined up perfect.

Set the belt off a tooth backward from the direction the tensioner pulls.

I believe the tensioner is on the backside of the engine. So when it pulls, it pulls the belt tension counter clockwise. So set your cam gear off toward the front of the car by one tooth. Experiement with it. It took me a few tries to get it right but I got it right and it was fine.

05-27-2008, 09:28 PM	#1 (permalink)
ZMR2 Haterizing the people Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Omaha Posts: 1,223 Thanks: 3 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post iTrader Rating: (4/100% )	Need help on getting my timing belt done I Know before I put the motor in I want to replace the timing belt water pump and all the others that way I dont have to do it in the car. I cant find any write ups really, I need to know the how too- and where the exact location the teeth are supposed to be etc. There is already a belt on there but im not sure if its even good at all. any help would be greatly appreciated, once I get my motor mounts and this Im ready to get her in! Pics will come then.

05-27-2008, 09:30 PM	#2 (permalink)
Gairloch Dreaming of apexes Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Minneapolis, MN Posts: 4,426 Thanks: 114 Thanked 219 Times in 192 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (7/100% )	I have the best write up in the world for the MR2 right here for ya. For stuff like timing belts it's best to go straight to the BGB (big green book aka factory service manual.) 1991 mr2 repair manual Good luck! __________________ "Inside the car, the world beyond the driver's immediate horizon ceases to exist. Alone with the solitude of his desire, survival sense numbed by the speed, he's outrun the mediocrity of the outside world, slipped the shackles it tries to clamp on us all. He is running free, chased only by a fear of failure, for failure is to risk ejection into the real world." ~Mark Hughes

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

05-28-2008, 06:21 AM	#3 (permalink)
TomsMR2 Formerly Tom Brokaw Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Bay Area Posts: 2,040 Thanks: 8 Thanked 152 Times in 129 Posts Blog Entries: 1 iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	luckily, its REALLY easy.. probably the easiest mr2 timing belt to do. you really need to be torquing stuff down though, so make sure you print out the torque specs and get a good feel for how the timing marks should look. with the engine out of the car you can blatantly see the cam notch and crank notch to indicate where it needs to be, and they kinda naturally sit in the right position.. so dont stress too much, if you need help its not hard to point someone in the right direction with these things. you also should really replace your oil pump o ring and seal. it'll cost you 5 bucks and save yourself a million headaches. you NEED an inch pound and foot pound torque wrench (two separate ones, this is a must). i know some people dont listen to advice, so if you're going to skimp on one of them, at least get the inch pound one.

05-28-2008, 10:32 PM	#4 (permalink)
RideMR2 No Skills Join Date: Sep 2006 Posts: 31 Thanks: 1 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	Look into a timing belt kit, it comes with a new tensioner and idler. O'reilly has a nice set.

05-31-2008, 10:25 PM	#5 (permalink)
TomsMR2 Formerly Tom Brokaw Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Bay Area Posts: 2,040 Thanks: 8 Thanked 152 Times in 129 Posts Blog Entries: 1 iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	you only have to replace them if they're bad (excessive play in the bearings). ive seen one bad one, and thats because it sat out in the rain forever. the other 4 or 5 ive seen at 150-180k have all been fine.. im unsure if they were replaced previously, but they were toyota bearings, and in good condition. absolute worst case the belt breaks and you calmly coast to a stop.. but thats extremely uncommon anyway. sometimes the "might as well" items turn a 20 dollar job into a 200 dollar job, and you really dont benefit.

06-03-2008, 05:02 PM	#6 (permalink)
ZMR2 Haterizing the people Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Omaha Posts: 1,223 Thanks: 3 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post iTrader Rating: (4/100% )	Thanks for all the info again, I just have been trying to get an owners manual or get one online and it just wolnt work for me. Im starting to run into a couple problems which has been slowing me back besides this

06-03-2008, 06:24 PM	#7 (permalink)
Gairloch Dreaming of apexes Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Minneapolis, MN Posts: 4,426 Thanks: 114 Thanked 219 Times in 192 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (7/100% )	What problems are you having with the manual? You should be able to open it with Adobe Reader just fine ....

06-04-2008, 10:32 AM	#8 (permalink)
ZMR2 Haterizing the people Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Omaha Posts: 1,223 Thanks: 3 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post iTrader Rating: (4/100% )	My computer didnt come with that program

06-04-2008, 02:15 PM	#9 (permalink)
Gairloch Dreaming of apexes Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Minneapolis, MN Posts: 4,426 Thanks: 114 Thanked 219 Times in 192 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (7/100% )	No, it didn't. You have to go to adobe.com and download then install it. All you need is adobe reader.

06-10-2008, 06:17 PM	#10 (permalink)
akwhitemr2 swapping in progress Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: stl Posts: 29 Thanks: 5 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	If the all the timing marks are correctly aligned does the belt just slip on in any way or is the some special way you need to put the timing belt on. With a new tensioner and idler pully

06-10-2008, 07:39 PM	#11 (permalink)
Luni ST185 Powered SW20 Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Salt Lake City Utah Posts: 2,616 Thanks: 6 Thanked 86 Times in 74 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (7/100% )	For reference, if your timing belt is being replaced under routine maintenance, all you really need is the belt and the tensioner spring. DONT REUSE THE TENSIONER SPRING. However, if you THROW a belt, you need to replace the idler and tensioner pulley, and the spring. And the belt. And the belt only goes on one way, so just pay attention to how it comes out.

06-10-2008, 08:13 PM	#12 (permalink)
akwhitemr2 swapping in progress Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: stl Posts: 29 Thanks: 5 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	how do you know it is the right way when you have a new belt?

06-10-2008, 08:37 PM	#13 (permalink)
Luni ST185 Powered SW20 Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Salt Lake City Utah Posts: 2,616 Thanks: 6 Thanked 86 Times in 74 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (7/100% )	The belt only goes on one way. The pulley configurations wont work correctly if you dont wrap the belt and feed it the correct way. The only thing that you can really mess up are the timing marks. Set your crank pulley to 0, put the lower timing cover on, pull the belt up, line the cam marks up, wrap the belt, tension it, spin the engine a few times to remove the slack, retension it, then check your timing marks again. Just do what the BGB says and youll be ok.

06-11-2008, 04:10 PM	#14 (permalink)
akwhitemr2 swapping in progress Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: stl Posts: 29 Thanks: 5 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	When the new belt is on on the pulleys properly what would happen if the intake camshaft was off by maybe 1 mm. I am looking at where the U in the camshaft is supposed to line up with the O on the timing cover. I thought it might be off a tooth but it is sooooooo close. It is 1mm early.

06-11-2008, 04:15 PM	#15 (permalink)
Luni ST185 Powered SW20 Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Salt Lake City Utah Posts: 2,616 Thanks: 6 Thanked 86 Times in 74 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (7/100% )	Is your engine in the car or out? If its in the car, its hard to reference the horizon marks, and which way is DOWN, but you can use the cam marks. Most important thing is the crank pulley is on the 0 mark on the lower timing cover. If the crank is dead on, and the cam seems SLIGHTLY off, its probably on. If the engine is in the car, just tension it, put the rear mount and valve cover back on and start the car. If it starts and runs, let it run for a few minutes, (your battery will sustain it), and use your timing light with the TE1 and E1 terminals bridged, your timing mark should be dead on 10. If its dead on, your marks are lined up. If its off, you prolly are off a tooth. One thing I had to do to get it to line up is I had to actually place the cam off by a tooth and when I tensioned it it pulled the tooth out and was dead on. Last one I did was in the car and was a little tricky. I didnt have any problems lining everything up with the engine out of the car. Hope this helps man. Its how I came to find my timing belt job was correct.

09-17-2008, 01:10 PM	#17 (permalink)
Luni ST185 Powered SW20 Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Salt Lake City Utah Posts: 2,616 Thanks: 6 Thanked 86 Times in 74 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (7/100% )	Last time I did a 5S belt, I compensated by setting it off a tooth and it lined up perfect. Set the belt off a tooth backward from the direction the tensioner pulls. I believe the tensioner is on the backside of the engine. So when it pulls, it pulls the belt tension counter clockwise. So set your cam gear off toward the front of the car by one tooth. Experiement with it. It took me a few tries to get it right but I got it right and it was fine.