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Old 03-12-2009, 02:01 PM   #1 (permalink)
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idle at 2k im going crazy! replaced the following and have the codes....

so my car started to idle at 2k. im going nuts because its just annoying, and is waisting alott of gas! im trying to get this fixed before school.

i jumped terminals and got
12
22
24
41
45
51

so i replaced the tps, water temp sensor, air temp sensor.
i had spares.
i also got new set of vac hoses looked up a toyota vac diagram and put all vac hoses new.
i got the timing like and checked time. its at 10 BTDC
what else to i have? if i unplug the map sensor i notice it adles at 1k but im sure thats not very good for the car.

what the hell is the vsv for? i saw that in the diagram and i have 2 behind my manifold and things like egr and the fuel pressure regulator vac hose hook on to it.


HELP ME PLZZ.. ANYONE

i deleted the codes and now its only throwing 12 and 51

what the hell are those and how do i fix?
remember i have an auto to manual swap so my car is tecn automatic.
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Old 03-12-2009, 02:07 PM   #2 (permalink)
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what are these 2 vsv valves for? do they cause high idle?

what about taht other thing on the diagram that says bvsv?
does this cause high idle?

ive even tried disconnecting all egr components and putting a cap on all the manifold holes and nothing 2k and no less.

if i mover the tps it sorta of goes down but the idle moves from 1k to 2k up and down up and down!
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Old 03-12-2009, 02:48 PM   #3 (permalink)
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helppp anyone!? is even alright to drive it like that?
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Old 03-12-2009, 04:16 PM   #4 (permalink)
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you did try setting the idle using the idle set screw right? Not sure where it is on that engine, but try turning it down and see if it runs properly at the lower RPM

Also it is supposed to idle higher until it's warmed up, so if you go to adjust it do it when the engine is warmed up, and i think you have to do a couple other things to do it right, like unplug the fans or something

and it should be ok to drive it like that if there's no vacuum leak
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Old 03-12-2009, 04:18 PM   #5 (permalink)
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well like i said. i replaced everysingleeeee vacumm leak.
and yes the screw is screwed in all the way down. and now the idle is 1800
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Old 03-12-2009, 04:21 PM   #6 (permalink)
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ya i wasn't sure if you'd done it yet, i've heard that sometimes you can take the idle valve right out and then you'll be able to adjust it more, haven't done it myself though.
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Old 03-12-2009, 04:24 PM   #7 (permalink)
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i wopuld check it but i have to go to school in like 20 minutes. ;( i think im just gonna pass by the junk yar tomorrow and get all these pieces like the vsvs and the icv from another mr2 if i see one or a celica 2.2l
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Old 03-13-2009, 01:32 PM   #8 (permalink)
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k so i took the Idle control valve out. and it looked gunky to i cleaned it out put some wd-40 and put it all together
i cranked up and im idleing at 1500
.. any other ideas ;(
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Old 03-13-2009, 01:33 PM   #9 (permalink)
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it feels weak as hell by the way.
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Old 03-13-2009, 01:52 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I have the same problem....I still donno what it is! Its time to sell anyways!
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Old 03-13-2009, 01:57 PM   #11 (permalink)
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lol hell naw!!
lol i would never sell! not unless i had too!

but man im soo dissapointed. am so tired of it driving like crap. i wish it drove like it did about 6 months ago
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Old 03-13-2009, 03:09 PM   #12 (permalink)
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does it continue to idle like that once it's warm? And does the idle speed change when it gets warm at all?
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Old 03-13-2009, 03:23 PM   #13 (permalink)
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did check you're throttle cable/body?
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Old 03-13-2009, 04:50 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fvillota View Post
what are these 2 vsv valves for? do they cause high idle?

what about taht other thing on the diagram that says bvsv?
does this cause high idle?

ive even tried disconnecting all egr components and putting a cap on all the manifold holes and nothing 2k and no less.

if i mover the tps it sorta of goes down but the idle moves from 1k to 2k up and down up and down!
Those would be the fuel pressure, EGR, and EVAP (BVSV=Bimetal VSV/heat activated) VSVs. I'd say, out of the 3, the fuel pressure VSV is the most important.

You've gotta go hose-by-hose and make sure nothing is causing a vacuum leak. Check everything on your intake manifold. The rubber vacuum barb covers (on the passenger side part of the intake manifold) should be in good condition.
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Old 03-14-2009, 09:37 AM   #15 (permalink)
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yea i replaced everysingle hose and lil barb covers. (has 3)
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Old 03-14-2009, 11:11 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Yeah after its warm it does it even more. When its cold it randomly does it.
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Old 03-15-2009, 02:25 PM   #17 (permalink)
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OK. so i bought a new throttle body gasket ($2.50) i bought carb cleaner ($2.99) i bought the idle air control valve gasket on line because no one had it ($5.00 shipped)
so anyways.
took the egr valve off and it was full of carbon and wouldn't move. i took the throttle body off and the icv off the throttle body.

i cleaned the egr with carb cleaner and when clean i put wd-40 on it till the valve inside moved freely, i did the same to the idle control valve.

i cleaned the rest of the throttle body and the manifold with the carb cleaner. i put the gaskets on put it all back together. and now my car is idle at 1000 or 1200

i don't think this is bad at all keeping in mind that my timing is at 14 degrees and advancing timing like that idles ur car up. soo hopefully this helps ppl out.
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Old 03-16-2009, 01:59 AM   #18 (permalink)
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good job, 1000 to 1200 sounds WAY better than 2000.

And the clean egr will hopefully make it run a bit smoother.
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Old 03-16-2009, 08:31 AM   #19 (permalink)
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yea runs smoother and also cooler. the temp gauge either messed up or dosent get to the middle like it used to it slightly under the middle
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Old 03-16-2009, 02:24 PM   #20 (permalink)
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The egr i think is actually supposed to lower exhaust gas temperatures though lol
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