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Old 06-07-2009, 05:44 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Damn! You broke all the flywheel bolts? Must be running mad power though those bolts to snap them in 5th while cruising, well over 800hp I'd say

Purple clutch normally means it got hot normally from hard launching or slipping, I brought mine new purple so yeah. Also you can resurface the flywheel and it will be fine, will also bite harder with a resurface. I refaced mine when a clutch spring broke out of the centre and flew around pretty violently. If you post up pics it will show whats going on a lot better.
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Old 06-07-2009, 10:47 PM   #22 (permalink)
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this is where all the bolts broke.


this is the purple shades the clutch has


how come the clutch is more worn on the outside then in the inside (or looks like it is)


this is the flywheel. looks like its been through hell and back lol


lol not even one bolt got saved. from my 800 HP and my 3000 pounds of torque in 5th gear.


I'm getting the whole assembly wobbled back into the tranny and make that huge scratch.


OK guys.. so what u think could have caused this? what should i look for so i can make sure this does not happen again.


I'm going turbo soon. should i get a stage 2 or 3 clutch?

is F1 clutch good? I've heard bad and good things.

how much should a resurface of the flywheel cost me and do i have to worry about it being bent or something?
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Old 06-07-2009, 11:14 PM   #23 (permalink)
 
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There doesn't seem to be any resemblance of even pressure between the flywheel, the clutch disk and the pressure plate. The transmission side of the disk appears to be applying pressure to the inner portion of the disk, while the engine side of the disk appears to be contacting the flywheel only in a small portion of the outer part of the disk. Seems as though the clutch disk was warped.

The purple on the very inner portion of the clutch disk spring plate doesn't appear to be heat related.

I'm imagining some very serious harmonic disturbances were created by this set-up that ultimately sheared the flywheel bolts.

The flywheel should only be $25-40 to resurface, then I would dispose of all the other parts and start anew. Upgrade to a stock pressure plate and clutch disk until you decide to create serious power. After that you would be going to a lightened flywheel anyway.
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Old 06-07-2009, 11:22 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by palos View Post
There doesn't seem to be any resemblance of even pressure between the flywheel, the clutch disk and the pressure plate. The transmission side of the disk appears to be applying pressure to the inner portion of the disk, while the engine side of the disk appears to be contacting the flywheel only in a small portion of the outer part of the disk. Seems as though the clutch disk was warped.

The purple on the very inner portion of the clutch disk spring plate doesn't appear to be heat related.

I'm imagining some very serious harmonic disturbances were created by this set-up that ultimately sheared the flywheel bolts.

The flywheel should only be $25-40 to resurface, then I would dispose of all the other parts and start anew. Upgrade to a stock pressure plate and clutch disk until you decide to create serious power. After that you would be going to a lightened flywheel anyway.
thanks alot man. i'll be looking into that.

should i get exedy again?
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Old 06-08-2009, 01:21 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Bummer about the bolts! Might look at ARP bolts for the rebuild. If Exedy will replace under warrantee I'd stick with them, otherwise Toyota. Resurface the flywheel and torque all bolts going in to specification, with a calibrated torque wrench.

Probably have to change disk and pressure plate. FWIW I'd also throw in a new Toyota throw out bearing while I'm at it. I know it's an added expense, but you have stressed the one you have, and it would be a shame to pull this all back apart in six months due to a bad throw out bearing. (Just my opinion, - what parts cost versus what it costs me in time and aggravation to stretch parts by a few months.)

Good luck, keep us informed.
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Old 06-08-2009, 08:30 AM   #26 (permalink)
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yea i know i was thinking the same thing.
im gonna see what bolts i buy and i will most likely get a whole new clutch kit.

i got a good deal at gripforce for a stage 2 F1 clutch and 12k or 1 year warrantee. should i jump on that?

im going turbo in about 6 months
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Old 06-08-2009, 01:28 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Ild dare say your clutch wasnt aligned properly.
All major bolts need to be torqued properly also as per manufactures instructions. If you use Toyora ones follow their procedure. Going ARP use theirs but to be 100 % they quote using a stretch gauage which i reckon you dont have but any quality speed shop/mechanic would.
BTW if you do go turbo dont skip on the head bolts and rod bolts. OEM on the mains are ok.
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Old 06-08-2009, 01:30 PM   #28 (permalink)
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got you.
do you happen to have the sizes of the bolts for the 5sfe
i called arp and they dont have a listing but might be able to get it with the sizes.
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Old 06-08-2009, 11:21 PM   #29 (permalink)
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cant find the bolts sizes so i can get arp to see if they can provide!
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Old 06-09-2009, 07:26 AM   #30 (permalink)
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That i cant help you with sorry mate.
My EPC shows that the 3SGE N/A , BEAMS AND TURBO models have the same part number
90105-12187
but th 5 is
90105-10071
Do some searching and ask anyone that has built a 5 engine. Maybe one of the sponsors.
If that fails maybe just buy one OEM and get it measured since all of yours are brocken. Maybe someone can chim in
Im sure they will have one.
As there are a few sizes in their catalogue
10 x 1
10 x 1.25
11 x 1
11 x 1.25
12 x 1
12x 1.25 <<<<<<<<<<< 3SGE , TURBO , BEAMS
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Old 06-09-2009, 07:50 AM   #31 (permalink)
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ok thanks alot man. i'm gonna check with Aaron later today and see if he can some how find the bolt sizes
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Old 06-09-2009, 08:23 AM   #32 (permalink)
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hey guys i found the arp catalog and found part number for a all track celica with a 2.2l
the part number is
203-2803

the size is M11 x 1.25

and the URH what ever that is is 1.040

does this sound right? or atleast the size?

they sell only 6, so i guess im gonna have to call anyway and let them know i need 8.
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Old 06-09-2009, 10:04 PM   #33 (permalink)
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anyone?
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Old 06-09-2009, 10:41 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Something doesn't seem right, those are for a 6 bolt flywheel correct? But you have an 8 bolt flywheel. But I thought the 5sfe had a 6 bolt flywheel???? I have to google this up.
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Old 06-09-2009, 10:46 PM   #35 (permalink)
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well do my understandstanding some ppl have a 6 bolt crankshaft and some have 8.
something with the camry and so on.

i have 8 bolts.
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Old 06-09-2009, 10:57 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Yeah it is confusing, your flywheel and bolts may match those for a st165 celica but I'm no 5sfe expert so it is a stab in the dark, we didn't even really get the engine in New Zealand the 3sge was the base model mr2. Someone with a turbo 5sfe will probably know.
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Old 06-09-2009, 10:58 PM   #37 (permalink)
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you think i should just get the stock bolts again? ARP is giving me a really hard time.
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Old 06-09-2009, 11:25 PM   #38 (permalink)
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OEM bolts would be good but you are going turbo and it would be good to have the piece of mind that it isn't going to do this at 6k while launching. Someone here will know, I can bet the celica guys know, they will be shared with the 3sgte bolts or something but not listed for 5sfe because no one asks for them. I turned up the number 203-2801 here ARP Flywheel Bolt Kits - 203-2801 [ARP-203-2801] - $56.00 : Phoenix Tuning but it is the 3sgte part number. If I was actually registered I would ask on the celica forums, those guys mess with them alot.
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Old 06-09-2009, 11:28 PM   #39 (permalink)
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this is the thing. the part number fot the 5s is 203-2803 and they still ask me questions and im not sure if im even right about the m11 x 1.25
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Old 06-09-2009, 11:35 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Well I can say this on the matter 3sge/3sgte>5sfe for everything including flywheel bolts now lol. Just go to arp and slap them one
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