Broke a stud, need help!

Jon3sgte · 07-08-2009, 02:23 PM

one of the studs that holds the thermostat housing broke. Any i deas on how to get it out to replace it? it is threaded on the block end but wouldnt unthread. i took vice grips to it but no matter how tight they were they just slipped around it. Probably because its an aluminum stud. Any ideas on how to get it out? there is about 1'' sticking out of the block.

tksmr2 · 07-08-2009, 05:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jon3sgte

one of the studs that holds the thermostat housing broke. Any i deas on how to get it out to replace it? it is threaded on the block end but wouldnt unthread. i took vice grips to it but no matter how tight they were they just slipped around it. Probably because its an aluminum stud. Any ideas on how to get it out? there is about 1'' sticking out of the block.

That happened to me too on my 93t. One of the studs came off and stayed on the housing itself, while the other one was still on the engine side. I left it alone, and just put it back on that way. I wonder if it's supposed to be like that.

But, if you ruined the threads with vice grips.. then you will need to either take a die to it.. to get it re-threaded or, get it out somehow..

Jon3sgte · 07-08-2009, 06:23 PM

it broke off right where the threads started. there isnt any meat left once the housing is on to re thread it. Getting it out seems to be my only option.

palos · 07-08-2009, 07:10 PM

If you haven't already, start soaking it with Liquid Wrench or another such solvent and gently tap the end of the stud. You can wrap a piece of a rag around the stud to help soak it. Tapping it will create minor vibrations that can help the Liquid Wrench penetrate.

When you get impatient and want to try to turn it with vice grips, wait a bit longer. You can try to apply heat to the block, trying not to also heat the stud. When you try to turn the stud, go counter-clockwise, then clockwise, if it starts to loosen. Instead of vice grips, you may be able to double nut the stud and try to turn the bottom nut.

Worse case scenario is needing to drill it out, using an easy-out and then a tap. In my experience, easy-outs are typically oxy-moronic, i.e. they aren't easy and seldom do they get the object out. Start with a centering punch, small sharp drill bits and work your way up to the appropriate size for the easy-out.

Jon3sgte · 07-08-2009, 07:24 PM

i finally got it to turn with the vice grips. i'm contemplating running a bolt instead of a double threaded stud. are there any downfalls to this?

TreyMR2 · 07-08-2009, 07:26 PM

What would've really helped is a stud remover... Makes it MUCH easier. I'll try to find a pic of one if you don't know what I'm talking about. And to answer your other question about a bold instead of a stud, no there is no down side to doing that. We actually have a servic bulletin on a sequia to do exactly that on the water pump cause the stud causes some to leak.

07-08-2009, 02:23 PM	#1 (permalink)
Jon3sgte Cage Fighter Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Tucson, AZ Posts: 126 Thanks: 8 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Broke a stud, need help! one of the studs that holds the thermostat housing broke. Any i deas on how to get it out to replace it? it is threaded on the block end but wouldnt unthread. i took vice grips to it but no matter how tight they were they just slipped around it. Probably because its an aluminum stud. Any ideas on how to get it out? there is about 1'' sticking out of the block.

07-08-2009, 07:24 PM	#5 (permalink)
Jon3sgte Cage Fighter Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Tucson, AZ Posts: 126 Thanks: 8 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	i finally got it to turn with the vice grips. i'm contemplating running a bolt instead of a double threaded stud. are there any downfalls to this? Last edited by Jon3sgte; 07-08-2009 at 07:52 PM.

07-08-2009, 07:26 PM	#6 (permalink)
TreyMR2 Gen3 swap DONE!! Join Date: Jun 2007 Posts: 2,513 Thanks: 30 Thanked 60 Times in 58 Posts iTrader Rating: (10/100% )	What would've really helped is a stud remover... Makes it MUCH easier. I'll try to find a pic of one if you don't know what I'm talking about. And to answer your other question about a bold instead of a stud, no there is no down side to doing that. We actually have a servic bulletin on a sequia to do exactly that on the water pump cause the stud causes some to leak. Last edited by TreyMR2; 07-08-2009 at 07:32 PM.

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07-08-2009, 06:23 PM	#3 (permalink)
Jon3sgte Cage Fighter Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Tucson, AZ Posts: 126 Thanks: 8 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	it broke off right where the threads started. there isnt any meat left once the housing is on to re thread it. Getting it out seems to be my only option.

07-08-2009, 07:10 PM	#4 (permalink)
palos … Join Date: Apr 2009 Posts: 170 Thanks: 0 Thanked 20 Times in 18 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	If you haven't already, start soaking it with Liquid Wrench or another such solvent and gently tap the end of the stud. You can wrap a piece of a rag around the stud to help soak it. Tapping it will create minor vibrations that can help the Liquid Wrench penetrate. When you get impatient and want to try to turn it with vice grips, wait a bit longer. You can try to apply heat to the block, trying not to also heat the stud. When you try to turn the stud, go counter-clockwise, then clockwise, if it starts to loosen. Instead of vice grips, you may be able to double nut the stud and try to turn the bottom nut. Worse case scenario is needing to drill it out, using an easy-out and then a tap. In my experience, easy-outs are typically oxy-moronic, i.e. they aren't easy and seldom do they get the object out. Start with a centering punch, small sharp drill bits and work your way up to the appropriate size for the easy-out.