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Old 07-30-2009, 06:50 PM   #21 (permalink)
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well i am going to do the 3M and let it cure for a day and a half....and if it doesnt work i will order the poly mounts from twosrus..
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Old 07-30-2009, 11:38 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 328FTW
Only instantaneously on takeoff and its so small a difference as to be not noticable, what is noticable however is the jerking on the drivetrain and engine vibrations. Drag cars do it because they use the engine to brace the chassis somewhat and they are certainly not worried about vibrations so do whats easiest and wont tear (steel).
Racecars use solid metal mounts because you get the most feedback from the road and less flex, meaning better wheel contact.

Also, in some racecars (i.e. Formula 1) the engine isn't used to brace the chassis technically, it actually IS a part of the chassis. In an F1 car, the engine connects to the carbon fiber front end and essentially is the rear end. It's called a stressed member when the engine and/or transmission is used as a load-bearing member in the chassis.
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Old 07-30-2009, 11:46 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Medusa View Post
Racecars use solid metal mounts because you get the most feedback from the road and less flex, meaning better wheel contact.

Also, in some racecars (i.e. Formula 1) the engine isn't used to brace the chassis technically, it actually IS a part of the chassis. In an F1 car, the engine connects to the carbon fiber front end and essentially is the rear end. It's called a stressed member when the engine and/or transmission is used as a load-bearing member in the chassis.
My meaning was mostly from the real world not F1 The buggy offroaders round here do that as well they like the 4age cast block for it because its stonger than an alloy block so they use carbed 4age engines alot.

My rx7 is a solid mount and you can pick which piston is missing by just looking at which part of the floor vibrates most Its also torques up the wheels hard since there is no dampning when you engage drive (yes auto) so it makes a loud crack from the diff and suspension from the sudden load. Evil car, evil evil car
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Old 07-30-2009, 11:57 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Well its not just F1 cars....

Haha I see what you mean. If you are running a more powerful engine than stock, it might be good to invest in some quality polyurethane mounts. If your motor has much more torque than stock it could "bottom out" the mounts, so to speak, which can cause damage. Just like a racecar needs stiffer than stock springs and struts to compensate for harder cornering forces, your engine needs stronger shock protection than stock.

And you drive an auto? Shame! Shame! Unless you don't have a left leg there is no good reason to drive auto.
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Old 07-31-2009, 12:08 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Medusa View Post
And you drive an auto? Shame! Shame! Unless you don't have a left leg there is no good reason to drive auto.
T350 auto I have a drag shift kit and lockup torque converter for it but it shifts pretty good now. With the drag kit rather than the current street kit and the lockup converter apparantly it will start breaking loose on upchange which leads to bad things. I want to take it out to the forest and do a rally in it for the lolz but I am 99% certain that it will kill me if I drive it in the forest, sounds awesome with the straight pipes on each bank and its warm inside because of the exhaust to body clearance next to the pedal box
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Old 07-31-2009, 12:11 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Now you are just making me jealous! What year did you say it is?
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Old 07-31-2009, 12:13 AM   #27 (permalink)
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86 series 4
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Old 07-31-2009, 12:15 AM   #28 (permalink)
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I love those!

Holy **** I am really jealous now. If I hadn't got my MR2 I would have tried for a second gen RX-7. I'm not as much of an RX-7 freak as I am for MR2's, but still...talk about sexy!
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Old 07-31-2009, 12:17 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Come to NZ they are dirt cheap here, the shell was $800 but came with a bunch of spares. Its less sexy and more meaty up close now
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Old 07-31-2009, 12:25 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Funny thing, I was actually born in Adelaide, Australia, and my parents visited New Zealand once or twice while we were there.

I wouldn't mind going to NZ, I've heard it is really nice there.
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Old 07-31-2009, 02:27 AM   #31 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattdouken View Post
Why do you insist on trying to convince me that solid poly mounts serve no purpose.....they stiffin the driveline greatly so theres more power to the ground.
you've already made up your mind, why bother asking? just fill them and be done with it.

you're not the only person who reads this thread. having realistic, valid information posted helps the other people who are actually receptive to advice.. and no, it wont put more power to the ground.

ive tracked my car with solid mounts, with shot mounts, with half urethane mounts. it makes no difference. with bad mounts the car just clunks around marginally more. with good condition mounts theres NO benefit to a solid mount. no more power put down, nothing. obviously making a crappy hack mount works better than a completely shot mount.

not everyone is interested in the "im poor and want to mod my car yo" fixes. its fair that these people know that they're not missing out on anything at all, but conversely gaining something buying stock mounts.
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Old 07-31-2009, 10:22 AM   #32 (permalink)
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I got the poly mounts in my 87 and I feel a lot more. The car is not quiet at all any time ever. Before I put them in, the car was kinda quiet down the highway. Now, its really loud and not great for an every day car. When it was wet out but the road had some dry spots on it and I would pull out fast, I'd sometimes get some wheel hop with the old rubber mounts. Now I dont get any of that with the solid mounts.
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Old 07-31-2009, 05:50 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomsMR2 View Post
you've already made up your mind, why bother asking? just fill them and be done with it.

you're not the only person who reads this thread. having realistic, valid information posted helps the other people who are actually receptive to advice.. and no, it wont put more power to the ground.

ive tracked my car with solid mounts, with shot mounts, with half urethane mounts. it makes no difference. with bad mounts the car just clunks around marginally more. with good condition mounts theres NO benefit to a solid mount. no more power put down, nothing. obviously making a crappy hack mount works better than a completely shot mount.

not everyone is interested in the "im poor and want to mod my car yo" fixes. its fair that these people know that they're not missing out on anything at all, but conversely gaining something buying stock mounts.
i understand completely....but solid mounts do eliminate wheel hop and create less rpm bog while shifting.....so there for "BETTER THAN STOCK MOUNTS"

.....But with that said,Yes if you want to fix bad mounts and retain functionality ,you should go with stock.

But if you dont mind a few vibrations go solid..
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Old 08-01-2009, 09:31 PM   #34 (permalink)
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These are the finished product...The rubber itself is about 25% stiffer than the rubber the stock mount is made of.

And when adding pressure no matter how much weight i put on it,there was no give. The stock mounts i could squish with one hand.
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poly-mounts-diy-stock-mount-fill-dsc03470.jpg  poly-mounts-diy-stock-mount-fill-dsc03471.jpg  
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Old 08-03-2009, 06:26 PM   #35 (permalink)
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ok so these compared to stock are much better. there is a little more vibration in the steering wheel and it shakes hard when starting.

But There solid. so for 20 dollars compared to 100....I would say it was a smart move.

Last edited by mattdouken; 11-04-2009 at 10:16 PM.
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