IDLE IDLE F*CKING IDLE

[grizzy225]

I have a small problem... I figure Id thoroughly explain what happens and what I have already replaced so you guys can help me out with ease and better understanding of the situation.

Parts (that I can think of off hand)
Rebuilt engine from Toyota
Throttle body and seals
All parts listed below were replaced and are Toyota:
Timing Belt
Waterpump
IAC
TPS
and other miscellaneous seals, gaskets, bolts and such that come with performing those^ services.


OK... when I start my car in the morning the idle is at or slightly above 2k... it will gradually go down to 1.5k-1.25k... ok... <this isnt my problem so much...

Problem #1
As I take off everything sounds normal it runs great but if I have to stop for whatever reason the idle will do one of 2 things:

1. It will drop down to slightly above 1k
2. It will stay at 1.75k or 2k

Problem #2
When Im just driving around and I happen to let go of the gas when the rpm is around 1.75k or 2k the gas seems to stick... the car will literally stay at the speed it was on before I let go of the gas pedal and not go down... this problem is very random though, it doesnt happen all the time.

Problem #3
When I am stopped at a light, where ever, whatever this is irrelevant... but after driving it of course, it could be 5 minutes, 20, 30, whatever length a drive the car will actually sputter a bit and the rpms go so low that the car almost stalls out... this is another random thing and I notice it happens when and only when I have the clutch pedal down... in or out of gear


The car does have an exhaust leak from the muffler... its actually the flange itself that is rotted away... thats it, headers down are clean no holes.



Can anyone point me in the right direction? Ideas and thoughts are welcome... any questions just ask me and Ill do my best to answer.

If you are wondering why I havent asked one of the Toyota techs to fix it yet it is because the gentlemen that does all of my work has been very busy with actual customer work AND he just left for vacation(lucky him) poor me



Thanks in advance for you thoughts and input
Janice

[MRH]

throttle cable sticking somewhere? I would assume that could be a cause, not too sure.

-H

[grizzy225]

hmmmm throttle cable... check

i will give that a shot


thank you!!



anyone else?

[after_the_last]

I'm having the same problem with my 2 as well, but mine would idle at 1100-1500 and go down to 1100 eventually. But when I start to go the pedal would stick around 2000-3000, when I push in the clutch or put in neutural, it stays at 2000.

[YELLOW_MR2]

I got a friend with the same problem on his Honda, and it's the throttle body.

[fvillota]

well my car would do that once in a while but i would just tap the gas pedal and it would go back to normal idle.
check the throttle cables and make sure nothing is hard. (move them with ur hand back and forth)
make sure the idle air control valve is plugged in right the tps too. maybe the plugs loose or something.
make sire that nothing on the intake manifold (vac lines) are loose or rotten.
hope you can figgure it out.

[after_the_last]

Originally Posted by YELLOW_MR2

I got a friend with the same problem on his Honda, and it's the throttle body.

That's what I was thinking of. Cause one time I got out and left it in neutural, it was idling at 2000. I pushed the cable holder that opens the butterfly valve to close it and it went back to normal. So I'm thinking I might have to take off and mess with it. Sorry, to hijack the thread too. I was going to post a new thread with the same problem. Just thought, it would be better if I threw it in here instead.

[Gairloch]

Janice, have you checked the idle adjustment screw on the throttle body to make sure it's as far down as it can go?

If it is the next step is to pull the intake off of the throttle body and plug the little hole you find there. That is the ISCV (Idle Speed Control Valve) and when you plug it the engine should just about stall. If it doesn't that means that you have air getting into the engine from another source. This could be a leak in a vacuum line somewhere or a problem with how the butterfly valve is seating in the throttle body. If it does nearly stall that means that the ISCV is allowing too much air into the engine when it's supposed to be at idle.

Another more remote possibility is that your mechanical timing is too far advanced. Do you know if it's on or not?

[masagsxr]

Hey Janice.... Is that the car now on your profile? It looks great. Looks like the car just came out from production line....

^+1 Gairloch

Problem 1: Check vacuume hoses. Verify timing.

Problem 2: Yes, check throttle cable. It does not have to be from the engine bay, it could be down on the pedal. I'm gessing the cable is slowly about to snap and threads are probably already damaged already inside the shielding which is no way to tell unless you pull the whole cable and slide it out of the shielding for inspection.

Problem 3: Have you checked fuel pump? Injectors could be dirty. I'd start with replacing fuel filter then maybe service the injector. If you have a way to check/test fuel pump then do so. Listen to the pump as you turn the key on "ON" position. Try this a few times until you are content you think that the fuel pump is ok or you think it needs to be replaced. Afterall, the car is pretty old (gas tank/fuel pump at least).

Hope that helps.

[grizzy225]

Originally Posted by YELLOW_MR2

I got a friend with the same problem on his Honda, and it's the throttle body.

throttle body was replaced... practically new hmmm i dunno

[grizzy225]

Originally Posted by fvillota

well my car would do that once in a while but i would just tap the gas pedal and it would go back to normal idle.
check the throttle cables and make sure nothing is hard. (move them with ur hand back and forth)
make sure the idle air control valve is plugged in right the tps too. maybe the plugs loose or something.
make sire that nothing on the intake manifold (vac lines) are loose or rotten.
hope you can figgure it out.

yeah i do the same thing, tapping the gas and it goes back to "normal"...

throttle cables are on my list... gotta find time
i know where the iac is and the tps so i can check that... those were replaced too so i dunno how they couldve come loose, who knows...
as far as the vaccum lines go... thats what i thought might be the problem, but i want any input for different thoughts or ideas.
intake manifold is good, not one of my "newly" replaced parts but in good working condition...

i will do my best

[grizzy225]

Originally Posted by after_the_last

That's what I was thinking of. Cause one time I got out and left it in neutural, it was idling at 2000. I pushed the cable holder that opens the butterfly valve to close it and it went back to normal. So I'm thinking I might have to take off and mess with it. Sorry, to hijack the thread too. I was going to post a new thread with the same problem. Just thought, it would be better if I threw it in here instead.

not a problem

[grizzy225]

Originally Posted by Gairloch

Janice, have you checked the idle adjustment screw on the throttle body to make sure it's as far down as it can go?

If it is the next step is to pull the intake off of the throttle body and plug the little hole you find there. That is the ISCV (Idle Speed Control Valve) and when you plug it the engine should just about stall. If it doesn't that means that you have air getting into the engine from another source. This could be a leak in a vacuum line somewhere or a problem with how the butterfly valve is seating in the throttle body. If it does nearly stall that means that the ISCV is allowing too much air into the engine when it's supposed to be at idle.

Another more remote possibility is that your mechanical timing is too far advanced. Do you know if it's on or not?

yeah the screw is all the way down....
if i plug the hole in the throttle body will i damage anything? do i permenantly plug it? what should i plug it with?

timing is set at factory which i believe is 10 degrees. ill double check

[grizzy225]

Originally Posted by masagsxr

Hey Janice.... Is that the car now on your profile? It looks great. Looks like the car just came out from production line....

^+1 Gairloch

Problem 1: Check vacuume hoses. Verify timing.

Problem 2: Yes, check throttle cable. It does not have to be from the engine bay, it could be down on the pedal. I'm gessing the cable is slowly about to snap and threads are probably already damaged already inside the shielding which is no way to tell unless you pull the whole cable and slide it out of the shielding for inspection.

Problem 3: Have you checked fuel pump? Injectors could be dirty. I'd start with replacing fuel filter then maybe service the injector. If you have a way to check/test fuel pump then do so. Listen to the pump as you turn the key on "ON" position. Try this a few times until you are content you think that the fuel pump is ok or you think it needs to be replaced. Afterall, the car is pretty old (gas tank/fuel pump at least).

Hope that helps.

hmmm, never thought about the fuel pump... i replaced the fuel filter 2 years ago... havent really driven the car to cause much damage, loll but i will definetly check out the fuel system...

ummm YEAH!! thats my car now.. fresh out the factory buddy jk
hehe im really happy with the way it came out... might even keep the car for a while because she looks so good

[fvillota]

i don't think it would be the fuel pump.
my car would do it and just stopped and hasn't done it.
but i did replace the intake manifold gasket which i know you have a rebuild so I'm guessing they put a new gasket in there when they installed the head.

i don't think its timing either.
my cars is set to 14 BTDC and it idles nice at 900 with no a/c and 500 with the a/c on.

check those vac hoses and have your bf clean out your EGR with its not new.

[grizzy225]

hmmm will do, thanks for your input buddy

[YELLOW_MR2]

Originally Posted by grizzy225

throttle body was replaced... practically new hmmm i dunno

hmm checking don't hurt though, if it's not that it can be your gas pedal getting stuck.

[Jason.MZW20]

If it's equipped with cruise control, the throttle cable is not directly linked to the throttle body. Instead, it has 2 connections, which may stick, inside the cruise control/throttle cable assembly box (passenger side; black plastic cover). This runs another cable to the CC actuator to hold the throttle open when engaged.

Run the cable directly from the gas pedal to the throttle linkage and see. I had a sticking cable as well because of the cruise control cable box, and mine would free rev at 2000 RPM until I jabbed at the throttle. I lubed the plastic cable holders, and it helped a bit.

[mattdouken]

ok i had the same problem you are describing,also the tapping of the pedal to stop it.

Here is what you do,
1.Intake cleaner,the kind you spray into the throttle body while the car is running.
2.Spray wd-40 on the throttle cable on the throttle body, and cruise control linkage as well.Also make sure that your throttle cable is secure where needed.
3.If the following does not work, take off your intake while the car is at idle and you should see a little hole and it should be hissing.Place your finger over the hole(it wont hurt you or the car)And the car should idle down almost stalling.If it doesnt, it is your ICV or a throttle body leak.

And a side note the TPS broken, unplugged , set wrong,or loose will not affect the idle the way you are describing.The idle will raise only about 50 rpm if you unplug it.I have played with my car alot this weekend so I know.

Try that and you should end up with results

[Gairloch]

Originally Posted by grizzy225

yeah the screw is all the way down....
if i plug the hole in the throttle body will i damage anything? do I permenantly plug it? what should i plug it with?

timing is set at factory which i believe is 10 degrees. ill double check

You just cover the hole with your fingertip to see if it called the engine to stall. You can't hurt anything by doing this. The whole point is to see if air is only coming in through the ISCV or if if it's getting in elsewhere also. It should only be coming in through the ISCV.

10* is indeed the factory specified timing advance.