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Old 10-11-2009, 03:27 PM   #1 (permalink)
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hard to Start when Cold

The car runs and starts fine warm

but when cold it is difficult to start, and even when you push in the gas it makes the car die

I know the cars got a shotty starter, but thats not the problem mainly, cause it can kick over but the car will try to start up and start idling, but die back down..

I plan on flushing fluids and putting fresh everything this thursday when I have the money, SPECIALLY the oil. with some engine restore and all that
but what could be the problem here? I think its a dirty engine because the guy before me ran it without a filter at all, but I have a K&N Cone Filter on it

he gave me the stock air box to it with no filter, but I think its the turbo one, cause it has an AFM and all that (albeit broken I think as the connection is messed up)

I am really hoping to save this car and make it really nice in the end..
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Old 10-11-2009, 08:48 PM   #2 (permalink)
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It could be the throttle body sticking. I would clean out the throttle body as a start.
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Old 10-11-2009, 10:19 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
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It could be the throttle body sticking. I would clean out the throttle body as a start.
yea I already cleaned it out a bit cause the gas pedal was sticking

should I take it apart and thoroughly clean it and part of the intake manifold?

would I need a gasket for it?

also a wire on the throttle position censor is cut, although I will be fixing that tomorrow though, but I dont think that would affect this would it?

but am I right about the Engine oil? I think this car was sitting for awhile so the oil is prolly old..
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Old 10-12-2009, 12:21 AM   #4 (permalink)
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If the throttle body is clean but it still starts and dies, then the next culprit could be the idle speed control valve (on the bottle of the throttle body). But I would fix the broken wire first - that would effect idle.
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Old 10-12-2009, 12:33 AM   #5 (permalink)
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So this can only affect idle when cold? because when its warm it runs and idles perfectly fine
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Old 10-12-2009, 02:36 AM   #6 (permalink)
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At colder temperatures, carbon build up sticks more so if it is the ISC valve, the carbon sticks and holds a valve inside closed when it should be open.
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Old 10-12-2009, 04:54 AM   #7 (permalink)
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According to this shop manual the ISC valve is under the air intake on the Throttle bottle, it can be taken off without the throttle body being taken off right?

I dont want to have to buy a gasket... cheap I know..
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Old 10-12-2009, 08:25 AM   #8 (permalink)
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It's very hard to get at it without taking off the throttle body. Also get ready to drill out the seized screws that hold it in.
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Old 10-12-2009, 04:54 PM   #9 (permalink)
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ok so what about these vacuum hoses on it?

my dad is yelling at me to not touch them...
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Old 10-12-2009, 10:01 PM   #10 (permalink)
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There is 1 vacuum line and 2 coolant lines - you have to take them off to get the ISC valve off. To removed the screws that hold it in, I would use an impact screwdriver.
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Old 11-05-2009, 02:31 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I seafoamed the intake, but I havnt taken off the ISC valve to clean it... I did kinda use a Q-Tip and got a good amount of black crap out of it... but I dont know if that is good enough

could this be the cold start injector?

Oh, I also noticed that when cold it idles at 800 - 900... which I think is normal... but when warm it idles at 1200 - 1300


and I fixed the cut wire to the TPS and changed the oil... it seems a little easier to start now but still the problem exists

Last edited by PseudoKirby; 11-05-2009 at 02:44 PM.
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Old 11-06-2009, 10:40 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Can anyone at least show me the location of the cold start injector?

I have looked through this shop manual.. but it only gives a diagram of the layout.. without showing the exact location

and I have google searched it still nothing

maybe if someone could even describe where it is?
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Old 11-06-2009, 11:28 AM   #13 (permalink)
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I would check the coolent temp sensor first and formost...

Cold start is only that, for cold starting. It is only active while cranking the engine. Once its fired, the cold start injector / system has nothing to do with engine running and your said in the first post that it'll start and try to idle, then die.

At cold temps, the engine is very tempermental to correct fueling and timing. The ECU is very dependent on accurate reading from the coolent temp sensor to run the engine when its cold. Fuel, timing, and idle speed are all controlled by the ECU based on coolent temp.

Also cold start system doesn't even kick in during cranking until roughly 65*f and below so if your coolent temp is above that, then cold start is not functioning anyways and thus wouldn't cause the issue.
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Old 11-07-2009, 01:17 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I wish I could have someone who knows to attempt starting it, because there is more than that.. I guess I should have clarifed

yes it will kick up and try to idle then die, but it does a couple other things

like keep trying to crank over and over again with no start

the colder it is the harder it is to start it, it will also sometime just sit there and hum without trying to crank for like 10 - 30 seconds.. but I think that may be because the battery is low from trying to start it so much

it will also make a very loud grinding type sound, but I know thats the starter, and that doesnt just happen when its cold

but I guess I should look into the coolant temp sensor then... Ill read through the manual to find its location
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Old 11-10-2009, 01:13 PM   #15 (permalink)
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ok I am assuming this is the Coolant Temp Sensor..... and I can see whats wrong with it...



initially it wasnt all the way off... but all of a sudden the car STOPPED trying to start all together... and the hum of the radiator and such stopped... the battery and check engine light dont come on when trying to start it anymore... only the airbag light (because of it being dissconnected) and the thing that looks like a genies lamp.. which I think is supposed to be oil...
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