To all the 5sfte's out there

[328FTW]

Originally Posted by CJMR2T

Yeah, they all pretty much work the same way. Like Mrturrari said, they are a very basic / simple mechanical device.

Basically they are just a cone and seat with a rubber diaphram and a calibrated spring. The spring is calibrated to the base pressure (no vacuum or boost, just atmosperic pressure..... It takes X amount of pressure to force the cone off the seat (based on the spring pressure. If you apply vacuum to the top side of the diaphram, you now have both fuel pressure and vacuum working to over come the spring pressure thus lowering fuel pressure. If you apply boost (air pressure) to the diaphram, then you have the spring pressure and the air pressure working together to try to close force the cone into the seat thus rising fuel pressure.....

If you have an adjustable unit, all the adjuster does is raises or lower the preload on the spring thus raising or lowering the spring pressure and therefor the fuel pressure....

A guy at our club HAD a RB20DE + T skyline and he needed an adjustable FPR but couldn't afford one so he just beat the stock FPR with a hammer to increase spring tension.........it explodered that same day

For some reason that post reminded me of that incident

[YELLOW_MR2]

Keep it coming guys, good info .

[killermillermr2]

Yeah, thanks guys. needed to know info! Thanks for bringing this up also yellow, probably saved me heartache down the road.

[YELLOW_MR2]

Same here, thats why I made this thread, needed the info ( doesn't mean you guys can stop ) No problem killer

[CJMR2T]

Originally Posted by 328FTW

A guy at our club HAD a RB20DE + T skyline and he needed an adjustable FPR but couldn't afford one so he just beat the stock FPR with a hammer to increase spring tension.........it explodered that same day

For some reason that post reminded me of that incident

Yeah, I know of a few people that tried to crush the top down to increase pressure and all but one exploded apart... People seem to think cause you can do it to a metal top BOV (like the stock 1g eclipse BOV's) you can do it to any type of valve that operates the same way... It works, but like the guy that you know of and the few that I've seen, it most likely will explode apart... There's a lot of pressure being dealt with in a FPR.......

Something to add here while we are on the subject of FPR's and FMU's (Raising Rate units). I personally would try playing with injector sizes and tuning with a SAFC or something before using a FMU. I have personally seen FMU's not be consistant in pressure control (i.e. might be increasing at say 8:1 one day and the 6:1 another)... It seems to be a hit or miss thing.... IMHO, not worth popping a motor because of a inferior part....

The other problem with drastically increasing the pressure is as pressure rises, its harder to open the injectors thus requiering more currect flow to open it. This can fry the drive transistors in the ECU..... Again, is it worth it??? Oh, let also add the fact that the more pressure you try to run, the hard you are working the pump. The harder you work the pump, the more likelyhood that it will be short lived.

Remember also that as pressure rises, flow decreases (physic's).

You are always safest with changing injector sizes and running a standard pressure and using electronics to alter fueling where you need to alter it.

I personally dont like piggy-back units either, but they are far safer then a FMU and trying to up the pressure over standard pressure.

You are not limited to the 315 supra injectors, they are just the easiest to use cause they are plug and play basically.... You can use anything (within reasonable size)... Changing to a low imp. (peak and hold) injector will allow you to go bigger and still maintain good idle quality (with some form of electronic tuning device) as long as you dont go more then about 50% larger then the stock size.

The whole reason for using electronics and bigger injectors is cause by adding the turbo to the 5sfe engine, you are changing the VE of the engine quite a bit in certain areas vs. what the ECU VE tables are tuned for. Plus the use of the turbo MAP is causing the ECU to think the engine is in a different opperating range then what its truely in....

I personally think that using the whole stock 3S-GTE turbo and manifold and MAP along with a SAFC or similar and injectors in the 370cc to 470cc range with stock fuel pressure should allow for getting a very good tune from idle to full boost in all RPM range's... I cant say that it will be a perfect setup but mathmatically, it should be very good.

I'll probably be doing something of this nature to my girls car in the near future so I'll have more input once we get to that point (just got her duece See link for her and have to put a engine in it)....

[YELLOW_MR2]

Another question, Whats the most psi I can push my 5sfte with the btm and the safc II? Also when I tune it where do I set the new red line at?? Like where do I set the new RPM's. It stock revs to 6k 2 ( I think haven't seen my dash in a long time) and I'm sure now boosted, it should rev higher.

[mrturrari]

Originally Posted by YELLOW_MR2

Another question, Whats the most psi I can push my 5sfte with the btm and the safc II? Also when I tune it where do I set the new red line at?? Like where do I set the new RPM's. It stock revs to 6k 2 ( I think haven't seen my dash in a long time) and I'm sure now boosted, it should rev higher.

It really depends on which turbo you are using and what other mods you have. A ct-26 will get you about 180rwhp at 10psi but a t3/t04 at 8psi may put you well past that. As long as you can continue to add enough fuel for your power you are good up to the point where the compression of the engine and type of fuel you use won't let you go higher. The BTM is not really a good solution for timing either when you move away from a low boost setup. It just doesn't allow you much control and it will hurt you some places while helping you others.

You need a stand alone ECU or overclock to the stock one to raise the fuel cut. If you are still on stock rod bolts then I wouldn't go past the stock 6300rpms unless you are willing to chance the longevity of the motor. Anyway unless you have cams, even with a big turbo you won't be getting much power above 6500rpms.

[YELLOW_MR2]

Originally Posted by mrturrari

It really depends on which turbo you are using and what other mods you have. A ct-26 will get you about 180rwhp at 10psi but a t3/t04 at 8psi may put you well past that. As long as you can continue to add enough fuel for your power you are good up to the point where the compression of the engine and type of fuel you use won't let you go higher. The BTM is not really a good solution for timing either when you move away from a low boost setup. It just doesn't allow you much control and it will hurt you some places while helping you others.

You need a stand alone ECU or overclock to the stock one to raise the fuel cut. If you are still on stock rod bolts then I wouldn't go past the stock 6300rpms unless you are willing to chance the longevity of the motor. Anyway unless you have cams, even with a big turbo you won't be getting much power above 6500rpms.

I have the t3/t04 and ws thinking of doing 10psi on that, with bigger injectors because I know my 315's are not not going to hold. I see what you mean with the stand alone, but I don't think it's worth it with this motor. I might when I'm able to build the 5sgte. So when I go get it tune, I should leave the redline where it's at?

[328FTW]

Originally Posted by YELLOW_MR2

I have the t3/t04 and ws thinking of doing 10psi on that, with bigger injectors because I know my 315's are not not going to hold. I see what you mean with the stand alone, but I don't think it's worth it with this motor. I might when I'm able to build the 5sgte. So when I go get it tune, I should leave the redline where it's at?

I'd leave the redline round about where it is the 5sfe cams and stuff are not good at the top and the stock rodbolts stretch even if you have ARP ones it's meh they don't rev well (without tearing into things a bit) the 5sfte is a torque spitter not a high revver.

And with everything calming down I FINALLY got serious (and time to do it) about my 3sge + T and brought an external wastegate, boost gauge and Variable FPR and started the downpipe for it. So hopefully my racecar will be boosted soon enough......said that enough times I think it's cursed everytime I go near it something happens

[presure2]

ct-27
460cc injectors
emanage ultimate
307whp @ 19.5 psi

[YELLOW_MR2]

Originally Posted by 328FTW

I'd leave the redline round about where it is the 5sfe cams and stuff are not good at the top and the stock rodbolts stretch even if you have ARP ones it's meh they don't rev well (without tearing into things a bit) the 5sfte is a torque spitter not a high revver.

And with everything calming down I FINALLY got serious (and time to do it) about my 3sge + T and brought an external wastegate, boost gauge and Variable FPR and started the downpipe for it. So hopefully my racecar will be boosted soon enough......said that enough times I think it's cursed everytime I go near it something happens

Thanks 328, I didn't know that.
Nice what management are you going to use for it?

Originally Posted by presure2

ct-27
460cc injectors
emanage ultimate
307whp @ 19.5 psi

Dang thats not bad, what management are you running? Stock internals?? Details please.

[328FTW]

Originally Posted by YELLOW_MR2

Thanks 328, I didn't know that.
Nice what management are you going to use for it?

Link G3 they are quite the big name in New Zealand I need to get a wideband now as well I might be able to borrow one but otherwise I will just buy it and use it on all my projects current and future.

[YELLOW_MR2]

Yeah never heard of it, yeah I keep forgetting I need to get a wideband.

[killermillermr2]

deffinatly need a wideband. unlocks a whole new world with one of them (and some way of controling fuel).

[YELLOW_MR2]

yes indeed

[presure2]

Originally Posted by YELLOW_MR2

Thanks 328, I didn't know that.
Nice what management are you going to use for it?



Dang thats not bad, what management are you running? Stock internals?? Details please.

100% stock bottom end.
webcams "294" grind (no that is not the duration of the cams..lol)
emanage ultimate for tuning.
the 2 bar map usually cuts out ~16.5 or so psi, i use the map clamp on the emanage to go above that.
sorry it takes a few days for my replies, i only hit the site once in a while.
all the details of my setup are in the link in my sig.

[killermillermr2]

It may take a while sometimes, but your replies are always appriciated.

[YELLOW_MR2]

+1, thanks dude, thats a good set up you got.