just bought a 91 NA with problems

sandiegomr2 · 11-17-2006, 12:31 PM

Hello Folks, just registered, I have been posting in the other boards, and thought I woudl share my story here as well.

I just purchased a red 91 MR2 NA for $800! Body is in great shape, interior is in good shape and the engine not so good.

Right off the bat the prior owner (who has problems to say the least) told me the radiator was cracked and it needed new rotors.

In fact that was true, in addition the head is blown and it needs a valve job. The car has 248 K miles so I woudl assume these are all origional parts.

In any case I(my mechanics) am in the process of ripping down the engine to see if it will only require a valve job and a gasket replacement as well as timing belt and water pump.

Supposedly the engine was rebuilt at 110K miles according to the old owner but I dont knwo if I can beleive him as he also said he was living in a sobver living home.

In any case I purchased a new toyota radiator, and the engine is being taken apart as we speak. The compression in the cylinders is perfect on two of them, too high on one of them (210) and blown out on one of them (spitting out water when we crank it)

So I am told we may be able to do a valve job/head gasket replacement and replace the water pump and timing belt for about $700 in labor which is a really good price for all of that.

If we get down in there and the engine is beyond repair I will have to buy a long block for the tune of $800 and the labor will be about $1000.

This is before I have even changed the rotors which need replacing or change the cap and service the distributor.

Also I was told the car has a rebuilt tranny and clutch so hopefully everything in that area is good.

At least the paint shines on most of the car and the prior owner had a drug deal go bad or an angry girlfriend because the side of the car is keyed and kicked on the rear quarter panel. Oh well, other than that the body is straight/no rust on the car and the interior is in good shape.

Hopefully all goes well and the tranny and clutch rellay have been rebuilt, I have not yet driven the car so I dont yet know. At least I will knwo after the rebuild I will have a good engine.

Nice to be a new member of such a cool MR2 community.

Mister2.2 · 11-17-2006, 02:49 PM

Hello. Sorry to hear about your problems. My advice is to look for a block in a junk yard, camrys are common and it should be easy to find a 5SFE. If you are mechanically inclined, own a garage and have a cherry picker you should be able to do a swap yourself.

Sounds like the car needs some TLC. Good luck, hope you are able to restore it to pristine condition. Post some pictures if you got em.

canadam · 11-17-2006, 02:53 PM

Mister2.2 is right, you should be able to find a 5SFE engine in good condition for only a couple hundred bucks if you look around. It will save you a LOT of money over a full rebuild of your engine.

Something to consider

sandiegomr2 · 11-17-2006, 03:05 PM

the used engine thing souinds great on paper, but to drop the tranny and engine out of the car right now is a major cost so the labor involved would be just as much as the valve job/head gasket. And even then you dont knwo if you are getting something tired on the bottom end.

Sometimes you can find agem in a yard though, If the motor needs replacing I will go in that direction.

iguana · 11-17-2006, 04:17 PM

Why not just do the 3SGTE swap? Seems like a very common thing on these boards.

sandiegomr2 · 11-17-2006, 04:28 PM

Again,

Dont have the cash for a new tranny/engine. This woudl be a $2000 plus job with labor involved. I work 9-5 and would never have the time to put into that. I just want a car that works well that I can build on over time. Yes, I would love to have the 93 LSD differential but alone that is $1700, now I may be able to find it at a pick and pull, if I didnt work I woudl be there all the time. I own my business and it would fail if I worked on my car all the time. A turbo and LSD swap is just not feasable at the moment. I am sure other things need replacing like flywheels and such to accomodate the turbo.

All I want out of this rebuild is a good strong engine to have a working car while I build up the suspension /wheels/ tires / Exhaust.

I did not mention, the car needs more work in other areas, like the rotors need replacing, the exhaust is cut clean in half after the cat. I probably shoudl replace the cat as well, as I looked up into it and it is dirty.

SO as you can see I need to make sure I can get this car on the road, I can always flip it for a profit and buy a turbo and start on a better platform. That woudl be my preferred way to obtain a LSD diff and turbo motor.

mr220v · 11-17-2006, 05:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mister2.2

Hello. Sorry to hear about your problems. My advice is to look for a block in a junk yard, camrys are common and it should be easy to find a 5SFE. If you are mechanically inclined, own a garage and have a cherry picker you should be able to do a swap yourself.

Sounds like the car needs some TLC. Good luck, hope you are able to restore it to pristine condition. Post some pictures if you got em.

Cherry Picker? All you really need is a furniture dolly, a parking spot, and about 12 hours of freetime. You don't really even need help.

If you live in an apartment, do it after the leasing office has closed. Throw your old motor in the dumpster in the morning. You might need help for this part.

mr220v · 11-17-2006, 05:39 PM

I wish I could find an mr2 with problems for $800.

mojoriffic1 · 11-21-2006, 06:00 AM

I bought my 92 last week (at auction) for $800. As I said in other post it had a TPS problem that is now fixed, oil leaks about to be fixed and some goofball apparently tried to do a brake job and messed up right rear caliper, so I had to redo the rear brakes. Oh, I could've got it for $100 b/c I was the only bidder until some guy jumped in that did not know what all was wrong with it (he was amazed when I was able to get the engine cover open) and I only gave that b/c the car had 17" gram lights on it and salvageable interior.

mojoriffic1 · 11-21-2006, 06:08 AM

sorry, forgot to finish the thought....... Deals are out there, you only have to look.... I will stop at someone's house and ask about their car if it looks like it has sat for more than two weeks or is possibly in some state of disrepair. Or I just talk to people at autoparts stores (not a day goes by I don't stop at least once at one) that have the kind of cars I am interested in b/c more often than not someone gets in a bind for money or can't afford to fix their stuff or knows some guy's cousin's best friend's baby's mama that has this or that for sale on the cheap b/c they are gonna repo his new gold teeth if he doesn't come up with some money quick..... and if you offer a small finder's fee people will tend to keep up with your number, at least that way they can get something out of a deal they may not have been able to afford anyway

Acet · 11-21-2006, 08:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mojoriffic1

....or knows some guy's cousin's best friend's baby's mama that has this or that for sale on the cheap b/c they are gonna repo his new gold teeth if he doesn't come up with some money quick.....

lmfao

sandiegomr2 · 11-23-2006, 11:33 PM

Update, Happy Turkey day to everyone

The head is off and at he machine shop and will come back all shiny and with new valve rings.

I noticed on the bottom end that the cylinders looked good, some cabon deposits on the pistons, but the cylinders did not have a lip on them they looked perfectly round and there was no movement in the pistons. My mechanic even told me he coudl see the cross hatch marks on the cylinder walls. I could not see them, but it was kinda dark.

Anyway I bought a toyoya head set, new head bolts, thermostat, cranks seal and timing belt, idler, and pulley, going aftermarket on the water pump. All from Toyota for a heavy $500 total.

At least I have piece of mind the gaskets are good quality. I do wonder though if you put money into rebuilding if you can end up with a tired bottom end. How can I be sure the oil pump or crankshaft is tired and worn? The cyclinders look good as do the pistons does this indicate the bottom end is in good shape. My mechanic tells me so, and this engine was rebuilt or maybe even replaced at 110K, ther eis 250K on the clock now.

I think I shoudl be good, does anyone have any opinion or anything to watch out for when rebuilding and replacing many parts as I am .

texan_176 · 11-24-2006, 12:45 AM

If you have the time just save your money and buy a Gen 3 rear clip on ebay for about $3000. It will have everything you need. Just get a buddy who knows cars if you do not and it should almost all be 100% bolt up.

These clips come with EVERYTHING!

http://tinyurl.com/y2fuh7

More recently many final model year (1999) clips have been popping up.

http://tinyurl.com/y7pwqd

I wish I could afford to buy one of these and have myself a virtually new MKII that could waste almost any street legal car in town.

The rear body shell would be of value to someone who needs it to do major body repair or maybe convert to make a trailer out of it or something.

Of course, this requires lots of time.

sandiegomr2 · 11-24-2006, 12:55 AM

that shit is crazy insane, why in the world woudl you pay for a rear end when you can buy a whole car with those features for the same price(maybe not with a 99 motor). I have seen good late model mr2's here in CA for 3-4K with LSD and a turbo engine., maybe more like 5-6K

texan_176 · 11-24-2006, 10:21 AM

It would be cheaper on insurance in the long run to convert a non-turbo. US turbos are intentionally underpowered and mods to bring them up to just what a standard turbo costs would be at least 1-2 grand in parts and labor.

Besdies, if you reubilt an engine in a US model and did the mods to get to 245 BHP at the flywheel you would be 3-4 grand into it.

Then there are just bragging rights with a 99....might make the car appreciate in value later.

tHe kNiGHt FaLL · 11-28-2006, 07:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by texan_176

It would be cheaper on insurance in the long run to convert a non-turbo. US turbos are intentionally underpowered and mods to bring them up to just what a standard turbo costs would be at least 1-2 grand in parts and labor.

Besdies, if you reubilt an engine in a US model and did the mods to get to 245 BHP at the flywheel you would be 3-4 grand into it.

Then there are just bragging rights with a 99....might make the car appreciate in value later.

yea but in cali it would never pass smog... visually it would fail...

now form wha i read sounds bad... you need to figure out why your compression was so high is those cylinders... 210 is alot...i mean alot...

now for question on crank...?

"your mechanic" shouldn't be rebuilding this motor w/o checking his clearances...

as for crank...

run out, out of round...

cap and bearing clearance...

oil clearances...

theres literally 100 measurements required in a complete rebuild...

deck warpage

cylinder bore.... out of round... cross hatch is a good sign but do you kno the quality of the rebuild prior...?

alot of things to consider

sandiegomr2 · 11-28-2006, 11:46 AM

Update. 11/28/06

The head is back from the machine shop and on the block, Timing belt, idler, and pulley all changed out, they timed it and she runs beautifully.

Now a few minor issues left, when accelerating up in the 1-2K range she seems to bog down a little and hesitate, once up above 3K rpm it seems fine, perhaps a small hesitation but not much, it pulls hard in that range.

I used the same cap and rotor on the rebuild, and will replace them plus I will replace the fuel filter which is not origional but may have been replaced 100K ago. If those two things dont fix it what else coudl it be, fuel pump, coudl it be the injectors, I used the old ones with high miles on the rebuild.

Also there seems to be an engine whine that is pretty steady, do theses motors just sound like that or could this be my fuel pump going out?

Anyways, it is great not to have any leaks and super clean oil and brand new resurfaced valves,seals. This engine shoudl last many miles and years,

I have been driving her daily since the rebuild and she runs surpisingly well considering the abuse she got from the prior owner, clutch seems really good, and there is a small grind occasionally from the 2nd gear syncro. But other than bad brakes/bad rear axles/ and possibly a need for new struts and sway bar bushings, she will soon be perfect.

Any ideas what I shoudl be looking for with the engine hesitation at lower rpms?

Gairloch · 11-29-2006, 12:12 AM

Exciting for you

It's fun to hear about 2's getting made proper.

For the hesitation, have you checked out the ignition components?

Your engine whine isn't the fuel pump, that hides out in the gas tank in the middle of the car. Have you checked the tension on your belts?

sandiegomr2 · 11-29-2006, 11:59 AM

The tension seems fine, I am just wondering if the valves may be a either a little loose or too tight and may be producing that wine as they are new, they may quite down after a few miles of spririted driving and an oil change which I am going to do at about 150 miles. My mechanic put 20W50 into the engine anyways, what woudl the best oil to use be for southern california temerate climate?

Gairloch · 11-29-2006, 01:46 PM

I don't know that you want to wait for that 150 miles to change out that 20W50 oil. I can tell you from personal experience that the 5sfe oil pump has issues moving that heavy of an oil.

Do NOT make any hard right hand turns with that oil in the engine. That will pull the oil away from the pickup and increase the odds of starving the pump. That might even be the cause of your whine.

I strongly recommend that you get rid of that 20W50, replace it with 5W30 (factory spec) sooner rather than later.

11-17-2006, 12:31 PM	#1 (permalink)
sandiegomr2 No Skills Join Date: Nov 2006 Posts: 30 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	just bought a 91 NA with problems Hello Folks, just registered, I have been posting in the other boards, and thought I woudl share my story here as well. I just purchased a red 91 MR2 NA for $800! Body is in great shape, interior is in good shape and the engine not so good. Right off the bat the prior owner (who has problems to say the least) told me the radiator was cracked and it needed new rotors. In fact that was true, in addition the head is blown and it needs a valve job. The car has 248 K miles so I woudl assume these are all origional parts. In any case I(my mechanics) am in the process of ripping down the engine to see if it will only require a valve job and a gasket replacement as well as timing belt and water pump. Supposedly the engine was rebuilt at 110K miles according to the old owner but I dont knwo if I can beleive him as he also said he was living in a sobver living home. In any case I purchased a new toyota radiator, and the engine is being taken apart as we speak. The compression in the cylinders is perfect on two of them, too high on one of them (210) and blown out on one of them (spitting out water when we crank it) So I am told we may be able to do a valve job/head gasket replacement and replace the water pump and timing belt for about $700 in labor which is a really good price for all of that. If we get down in there and the engine is beyond repair I will have to buy a long block for the tune of $800 and the labor will be about $1000. This is before I have even changed the rotors which need replacing or change the cap and service the distributor. Also I was told the car has a rebuilt tranny and clutch so hopefully everything in that area is good. At least the paint shines on most of the car and the prior owner had a drug deal go bad or an angry girlfriend because the side of the car is keyed and kicked on the rear quarter panel. Oh well, other than that the body is straight/no rust on the car and the interior is in good shape. Hopefully all goes well and the tranny and clutch rellay have been rebuilt, I have not yet driven the car so I dont yet know. At least I will knwo after the rebuild I will have a good engine. Nice to be a new member of such a cool MR2 community. Last edited by sandiegomr2; 11-17-2006 at 03:05 PM..

11-17-2006, 02:49 PM	#2 (permalink)
Mister2.2 Cheese it! Join Date: Feb 2005 Posts: 6,561 Thanks: 121 Thanked 115 Times in 99 Posts Blog Entries: 1 My Google Map iTrader Rating: (3/100% )	Hello. Sorry to hear about your problems. My advice is to look for a block in a junk yard, camrys are common and it should be easy to find a 5SFE. If you are mechanically inclined, own a garage and have a cherry picker you should be able to do a swap yourself. Sounds like the car needs some TLC. Good luck, hope you are able to restore it to pristine condition. Post some pictures if you got em. __________________ --Josh MR2Trader.com Free to Buy and Sell your MR2 Parts!

11-17-2006, 02:53 PM	#3 (permalink)
canadam MidshipExpress Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Beautiful British Columbia Posts: 10,399 Thanks: 120 Thanked 142 Times in 121 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (34/100% )	Mister2.2 is right, you should be able to find a 5SFE engine in good condition for only a couple hundred bucks if you look around. It will save you a LOT of money over a full rebuild of your engine. Something to consider __________________

11-28-2006, 11:46 AM	#17 (permalink)
sandiegomr2 No Skills Join Date: Nov 2006 Posts: 30 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	Update Update. 11/28/06 The head is back from the machine shop and on the block, Timing belt, idler, and pulley all changed out, they timed it and she runs beautifully. Now a few minor issues left, when accelerating up in the 1-2K range she seems to bog down a little and hesitate, once up above 3K rpm it seems fine, perhaps a small hesitation but not much, it pulls hard in that range. I used the same cap and rotor on the rebuild, and will replace them plus I will replace the fuel filter which is not origional but may have been replaced 100K ago. If those two things dont fix it what else coudl it be, fuel pump, coudl it be the injectors, I used the old ones with high miles on the rebuild. Also there seems to be an engine whine that is pretty steady, do theses motors just sound like that or could this be my fuel pump going out? Anyways, it is great not to have any leaks and super clean oil and brand new resurfaced valves,seals. This engine shoudl last many miles and years, I have been driving her daily since the rebuild and she runs surpisingly well considering the abuse she got from the prior owner, clutch seems really good, and there is a small grind occasionally from the 2nd gear syncro. But other than bad brakes/bad rear axles/ and possibly a need for new struts and sway bar bushings, she will soon be perfect. Any ideas what I shoudl be looking for with the engine hesitation at lower rpms?

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11-17-2006, 03:05 PM	#4 (permalink)
sandiegomr2 No Skills Join Date: Nov 2006 Posts: 30 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	the used engine thing souinds great on paper, but to drop the tranny and engine out of the car right now is a major cost so the labor involved would be just as much as the valve job/head gasket. And even then you dont knwo if you are getting something tired on the bottom end. Sometimes you can find agem in a yard though, If the motor needs replacing I will go in that direction.

11-17-2006, 04:17 PM	#5 (permalink)
iguana No Skills Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Palo Alto, CA Posts: 14 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Why not just do the 3SGTE swap? Seems like a very common thing on these boards.

11-17-2006, 04:28 PM	#6 (permalink)
sandiegomr2 No Skills Join Date: Nov 2006 Posts: 30 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	Again, Dont have the cash for a new tranny/engine. This woudl be a $2000 plus job with labor involved. I work 9-5 and would never have the time to put into that. I just want a car that works well that I can build on over time. Yes, I would love to have the 93 LSD differential but alone that is $1700, now I may be able to find it at a pick and pull, if I didnt work I woudl be there all the time. I own my business and it would fail if I worked on my car all the time. A turbo and LSD swap is just not feasable at the moment. I am sure other things need replacing like flywheels and such to accomodate the turbo. All I want out of this rebuild is a good strong engine to have a working car while I build up the suspension /wheels/ tires / Exhaust. I did not mention, the car needs more work in other areas, like the rotors need replacing, the exhaust is cut clean in half after the cat. I probably shoudl replace the cat as well, as I looked up into it and it is dirty. SO as you can see I need to make sure I can get this car on the road, I can always flip it for a profit and buy a turbo and start on a better platform. That woudl be my preferred way to obtain a LSD diff and turbo motor.

11-17-2006, 05:39 PM	#8 (permalink)
mr220v Beams Owners Group Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 2,529 Thanks: 13 Thanked 176 Times in 147 Posts iTrader Rating: (11/100% )	I wish I could find an mr2 with problems for $800.

11-21-2006, 06:00 AM	#9 (permalink)
mojoriffic1 No Skills Join Date: Nov 2006 Posts: 21 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	I bought my 92 last week (at auction) for $800. As I said in other post it had a TPS problem that is now fixed, oil leaks about to be fixed and some goofball apparently tried to do a brake job and messed up right rear caliper, so I had to redo the rear brakes. Oh, I could've got it for $100 b/c I was the only bidder until some guy jumped in that did not know what all was wrong with it (he was amazed when I was able to get the engine cover open) and I only gave that b/c the car had 17" gram lights on it and salvageable interior.

11-21-2006, 06:08 AM	#10 (permalink)
mojoriffic1 No Skills Join Date: Nov 2006 Posts: 21 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	sorry, forgot to finish the thought....... Deals are out there, you only have to look.... I will stop at someone's house and ask about their car if it looks like it has sat for more than two weeks or is possibly in some state of disrepair. Or I just talk to people at autoparts stores (not a day goes by I don't stop at least once at one) that have the kind of cars I am interested in b/c more often than not someone gets in a bind for money or can't afford to fix their stuff or knows some guy's cousin's best friend's baby's mama that has this or that for sale on the cheap b/c they are gonna repo his new gold teeth if he doesn't come up with some money quick..... and if you offer a small finder's fee people will tend to keep up with your number, at least that way they can get something out of a deal they may not have been able to afford anyway

11-23-2006, 11:33 PM	#12 (permalink)
sandiegomr2 No Skills Join Date: Nov 2006 Posts: 30 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	Update, Happy Turkey day to everyone The head is off and at he machine shop and will come back all shiny and with new valve rings. I noticed on the bottom end that the cylinders looked good, some cabon deposits on the pistons, but the cylinders did not have a lip on them they looked perfectly round and there was no movement in the pistons. My mechanic even told me he coudl see the cross hatch marks on the cylinder walls. I could not see them, but it was kinda dark. Anyway I bought a toyoya head set, new head bolts, thermostat, cranks seal and timing belt, idler, and pulley, going aftermarket on the water pump. All from Toyota for a heavy $500 total. At least I have piece of mind the gaskets are good quality. I do wonder though if you put money into rebuilding if you can end up with a tired bottom end. How can I be sure the oil pump or crankshaft is tired and worn? The cyclinders look good as do the pistons does this indicate the bottom end is in good shape. My mechanic tells me so, and this engine was rebuilt or maybe even replaced at 110K, ther eis 250K on the clock now. I think I shoudl be good, does anyone have any opinion or anything to watch out for when rebuilding and replacing many parts as I am .

11-24-2006, 12:45 AM	#13 (permalink)
texan_176 91 NA Hardtop Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Houston TX Posts: 163 Thanks: 2 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts iTrader Rating: (4/100% )	If you have the time just save your money and buy a Gen 3 rear clip on ebay for about $3000. It will have everything you need. Just get a buddy who knows cars if you do not and it should almost all be 100% bolt up. These clips come with EVERYTHING! http://tinyurl.com/y2fuh7 More recently many final model year (1999) clips have been popping up. http://tinyurl.com/y7pwqd I wish I could afford to buy one of these and have myself a virtually new MKII that could waste almost any street legal car in town. The rear body shell would be of value to someone who needs it to do major body repair or maybe convert to make a trailer out of it or something. Of course, this requires lots of time.

11-24-2006, 12:55 AM	#14 (permalink)
sandiegomr2 No Skills Join Date: Nov 2006 Posts: 30 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	that shit is crazy insane, why in the world woudl you pay for a rear end when you can buy a whole car with those features for the same price(maybe not with a 99 motor). I have seen good late model mr2's here in CA for 3-4K with LSD and a turbo engine., maybe more like 5-6K

11-24-2006, 10:21 AM	#15 (permalink)
texan_176 91 NA Hardtop Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Houston TX Posts: 163 Thanks: 2 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts iTrader Rating: (4/100% )	It would be cheaper on insurance in the long run to convert a non-turbo. US turbos are intentionally underpowered and mods to bring them up to just what a standard turbo costs would be at least 1-2 grand in parts and labor. Besdies, if you reubilt an engine in a US model and did the mods to get to 245 BHP at the flywheel you would be 3-4 grand into it. Then there are just bragging rights with a 99....might make the car appreciate in value later.

11-29-2006, 12:12 AM	#18 (permalink)
Gairloch Dreaming of apexes Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Minneapolis, MN Posts: 5,313 Thanks: 139 Thanked 296 Times in 264 Posts Blog Entries: 4 My Google Map iTrader Rating: (7/100% )	Exciting for you It's fun to hear about 2's getting made proper. For the hesitation, have you checked out the ignition components? Your engine whine isn't the fuel pump, that hides out in the gas tank in the middle of the car. Have you checked the tension on your belts?

11-29-2006, 11:59 AM	#19 (permalink)
sandiegomr2 No Skills Join Date: Nov 2006 Posts: 30 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	The tension seems fine, I am just wondering if the valves may be a either a little loose or too tight and may be producing that wine as they are new, they may quite down after a few miles of spririted driving and an oil change which I am going to do at about 150 miles. My mechanic put 20W50 into the engine anyways, what woudl the best oil to use be for southern california temerate climate?

11-29-2006, 01:46 PM	#20 (permalink)
Gairloch Dreaming of apexes Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Minneapolis, MN Posts: 5,313 Thanks: 139 Thanked 296 Times in 264 Posts Blog Entries: 4 My Google Map iTrader Rating: (7/100% )	I don't know that you want to wait for that 150 miles to change out that 20W50 oil. I can tell you from personal experience that the 5sfe oil pump has issues moving that heavy of an oil. Do NOT make any hard right hand turns with that oil in the engine. That will pull the oil away from the pickup and increase the odds of starving the pump. That might even be the cause of your whine. I strongly recommend that you get rid of that 20W50, replace it with 5W30 (factory spec) sooner rather than later.