Going over bumps feels like the axles are going to fly off

[sandiegomr2]

Now that I have a sound engine for the most part Rebuilt and new head, I need to do full brake job, including pads and rotors. I am also going to change the dizzy cap and rotor.

Now I know the rear axles need to be redone as there is play in both sides but the overall suspension needs work all around, going over bumps feels like the axles are going to come off, what do I start with? Front ball joints, front and rear struts, and new sway bushings all around? I would like to tighten the suspension. Then one day I can get the rattle out of the exhaust, get a new cat and new downpipe and exhaust, at that point I will be ready to start fixing interior and body.

Where do I start with the suspension components, are there ball joint all around, repack bearings? new struts and sway bar bushings all around. Will that fix what I am experiencing. Any idea where to get these parts for good price, cant afford Bilstein and such but I do want quality, where does one find ball joints, do I have to buy new?

[PETC]

Balljoints are VERY important and will dramaticaly change the way the car feels.

If the car is tracking to a certain direction and is a 93+ model then it could be your strut rod bushings, in which case I'd suggest replacing them with the urethane ones that twosrus.com sells. If you do and can't figure out how to change them, send me a PM, it's a HUGE PITA, but really not that hard if you do it right. Next I'd replace the struts and axels with OEM replacements if that's what you want, if not, buy some Koni Yellows or something else. Brakes are simple, and if you like the stock springs and they're not shot you can keep those. Basicaly just replace all the bushings you can and the struts/springs, and especialy the ballkoints and you'll be golden.

When doing the brakes I'd upgrade to DOT4 fluid just because you should flush anyways and it's not that much more expensive + a higher boiling temperature. I'd also recomend buying some braided brake lines. I haven't yet, but I've heard nothing but good things.

Urethane Bushing Kit (Sways, strut rods, control arm, front and rear):
$105-115

Brake Rotors:
$25 each at Napa, and they are surprisingly good quality

Brake Pads (Good pads will be around this price, or higher some people highly suggest the Porterfield R4s, but they are more expensive. I got some PBR Axxis Ultimates which were around $100 for the set, and I was skeptical because they wern't metal pads, but they work phenomenaly.):
$100

Braided Lines:
$100

Brake Fluid:
$15

OEM Replacement Struts:
$50 Each

OEM Replacement Springs:
$25 Each?

Balljoints:
$105

Axels:
(With ABS) $220
(Without ABS) $148

Ignition Componets (Wires, Plugs, Cap, Rotor):
$100

Total: $1,055 With ABS
$983 Without ABS

So, for around 1-1.1K you have brand new brakes, new fluid, brand new suspension, new ignition componets, and a sweet driving MR2. I'd highly suggest spending a little more money and getting some aftermarket adjustable struts now if you ever plan on wanting them in the future. But if you like the OEM setup as I do, then there's no need to. I lucked out and the PO replaced the struts/springs before I bought the car, and I think he did the balljoints too. It's incredibly stiff and I love it. Hope this helps you.

Check www.twosrus.com for some MR2 specific parts, and www.partsamerica.com for some other parts. Also, if you're picky about sticking with OEM Toyota everything, which can get rather expensive for some things, check your local Toyota dealer, but expect to add at least $250 to $500 to that estimate if you do.

[sandiegomr2]

thank you I will be sure to print out this list. And check twosarus.com for the parts you mentioned.

the car is a 91 NA 5sfe, I coudl not find anything in the BGB about ball joints, do they call them knuckles or something. In any case to add to this list should I have the bearings repacked or replaced as well.

I wont have the cash to do all of this yet. I am assuming I can do the struts without having to remove the brakes. Because I am going to do that this weekend and dont have the struts yet.

Going out to get some redline mt90 for the tranny, dont knwo when the last time that was changed and there is a little grind on the 2nd gear syncro. Hopefully that will help.

[PETC]

You'll have to remove the brakes from the struts themselves, and take off the horseshoe clip on the strut so the brake line isn't connected to it anymore, but if you're careful I don't think you'll have to actually open the brake system to change the struts.

[Gairloch]

Originally Posted by PETC

... but if you're careful I don't think you'll have to actually open the brake system to change the struts.

That's only true if the tabs have already been cut. If they haven't then you either have to cut the tabs or open the system.

[sandiegomr2]

Any idea, on the ball joints, do I need upper and lower front and rear?, I found some on partsamerica for about 33 a piece.

Woudl I be corrdct in haveing the bearings repacked, ball joints replaced and new struts and bushings liek you state above. this together with the rear axle work shoudl do the trick.

[PETC]

Originally Posted by Gairloch

That's only true if the tabs have already been cut. If they haven't then you either have to cut the tabs or open the system.

What do you mean by this? On all of my OEM struts that are on my car have a clip that the brake line slides in to and then a horseshoe clip that slides onto it to lock them in. All you have to do to release the cables is pop the horseshoe clip out and remove the line, then the line is independent from the strut.

Did they change that in '93?

[Gairloch]

Originally Posted by sandiegomr2

Any idea, on the ball joints, do I need upper and lower front and rear?, I found some on partsamerica for about 33 a piece.

Woudl I be corrdct in haveing the bearings repacked, ball joints replaced and new struts and bushings liek you state above. this together with the rear axle work shoudl do the trick.

There is only one ball joint on each corner.

Sounds like you're on the right track for the rest of it. I dunno anything about repacking the bearings though, the one time I've had to deal with it I just replaced 'em.

Originally Posted by PETC

What do you mean by this? On all of my OEM struts that are on my car have a clip that the brake line slides in to and then a horseshoe clip that slides onto it to lock them in. All you have to do to release the cables is pop the horseshoe clip out and remove the line, then the line is independent from the strut.

Did they change that in '93?

Those tabs didn't come slotted from the factory. Even once you remove the horseshoe clip unless your strut tube tabs have been cut you would still need to disconnect the line from the caliper in order to get the line free.

Uncut with clips in place:


Cut:

[PETC]

Mine look factory and don't have any cut edges.

[SirJohn]

As far as the bearings go, I don't believe you can repack them, They're marked in the BGB as a "non-reusable" part which means it's probably a sealed bearing.

[PETC]

Yeah, I'm pretty sure you have to just replace the entire thing.