Water Pump DIY or pay the mechanic $400?

texan_176 · 02-20-2007, 07:56 PM

My pump is making noise and will go out soon. I have done T belts in Acura legends and vigors that have engines mounted like they were RWD when they are FWD. If you just pull the radiator in them you have all the room in the world.

I've never done a transverse mounted engine before. With Mister 2 I see 1-2 inches of room to do this in. That and there is the engine mount that has to come off. With my own parts I plan to change the belts, hoses, pump, T belt (since it will come out anyway), tension spring, and thermostat. If I change all of those parts with the mechanic cost will go up another $50 or so I guess.

My parts should cost me about $150 since I have a leaking valve cover and will buy gromets/the cover gasket as well.

Any tips or tricks doing the T belt that saves you tons of frustration and problems?

I read the manual and I don't get why it wants you to rotate the engine away from TDC (top dead center) during the removal/install process. Wouldn't you just get it at TDC and leave it there the whole time?

With my Acura I just left it at TDC, installed the belt, and then did 2 complete rotations of the crankshaft with my socket while checking my crank and cam gears to make sure they lined up with the match marks each time.

Why does Toyota do it a different way?

TomsMR2 · 02-20-2007, 09:17 PM

i shut the engine off, pop the covers and mark them. the 5sfe timing belt is so easy to keep timed, you could do it 180 degrees from where it tells you.

theres match marks on the cams, head, crank pully and block. its MUCH easier to make match marks on the old belt, and transfer the marks onto the new belt. toss the new belt on and you're golden. if you think you jumped time, its good to verify the marks on the pullies against the block and head.

theres not a ton of room, but its workable. the damned engine mount bracket is what gets most people, the rest is really pretty easy stuff.

i can do a 5sfe water pump in 2-3 hours by myself, in my garage with hand tools. i have a fair amount of experience, but its not a terribly difficult job either. for a first timer, it might take you all day, or maybe all weekend, but if you've done it before on another car and have a reasonable amount of tools, you'll be ok.

theres some good write ups floating around with pictures. i dont have links, but they're around somewhere.

edit: oops, i left out the water pump info

doing a water pump is CAKE! its just a few bolts, the real job in doing the water pump is the timing belt! the water pump is off to the side, its the most accessible part on the timing side.

mr2greasemonkey · 02-21-2007, 01:08 AM

You might as well do the front seals too while your at it, cams and crank. Not a bad time to replace the oil pump seal and o-ring also.

TomsMR2 · 02-21-2007, 02:01 AM

^ forgot about those, do replace your seals while you're in there! they're fairly cheap, even from toyota.

texan_176 · 02-21-2007, 08:17 PM

The seals just pop out with a pick and just press back in by hand; yes?

I have a cam seal already that was left from my 91 Celica.

The oil pump seals and crank seal will have to be purchased.

Thanks for the tips. I expect my parts to arrive late next week.

TomsMR2 · 02-21-2007, 08:36 PM

i strongly prefer a corkscrew puller.. but yes, they just pop in and out

you'll need a wooden dowl (or seal driver, but whatever) to hammer them back in, but its nothing major.

02-20-2007, 07:56 PM	#1 (permalink)
texan_176 91 NA Hardtop Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Houston TX Posts: 163 Thanks: 2 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts iTrader Rating: (4/100% )	Water Pump DIY or pay the mechanic $400? My pump is making noise and will go out soon. I have done T belts in Acura legends and vigors that have engines mounted like they were RWD when they are FWD. If you just pull the radiator in them you have all the room in the world. I've never done a transverse mounted engine before. With Mister 2 I see 1-2 inches of room to do this in. That and there is the engine mount that has to come off. With my own parts I plan to change the belts, hoses, pump, T belt (since it will come out anyway), tension spring, and thermostat. If I change all of those parts with the mechanic cost will go up another $50 or so I guess. My parts should cost me about $150 since I have a leaking valve cover and will buy gromets/the cover gasket as well. Any tips or tricks doing the T belt that saves you tons of frustration and problems? I read the manual and I don't get why it wants you to rotate the engine away from TDC (top dead center) during the removal/install process. Wouldn't you just get it at TDC and leave it there the whole time? With my Acura I just left it at TDC, installed the belt, and then did 2 complete rotations of the crankshaft with my socket while checking my crank and cam gears to make sure they lined up with the match marks each time. Why does Toyota do it a different way?

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02-20-2007, 09:17 PM	#2 (permalink)
TomsMR2 Still not heraldo. Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Pineapple under the sea Posts: 4,912 Thanks: 18 Thanked 406 Times in 303 Posts Blog Entries: 1 iTrader Rating: (4/100% )	i shut the engine off, pop the covers and mark them. the 5sfe timing belt is so easy to keep timed, you could do it 180 degrees from where it tells you. theres match marks on the cams, head, crank pully and block. its MUCH easier to make match marks on the old belt, and transfer the marks onto the new belt. toss the new belt on and you're golden. if you think you jumped time, its good to verify the marks on the pullies against the block and head. theres not a ton of room, but its workable. the damned engine mount bracket is what gets most people, the rest is really pretty easy stuff. i can do a 5sfe water pump in 2-3 hours by myself, in my garage with hand tools. i have a fair amount of experience, but its not a terribly difficult job either. for a first timer, it might take you all day, or maybe all weekend, but if you've done it before on another car and have a reasonable amount of tools, you'll be ok. theres some good write ups floating around with pictures. i dont have links, but they're around somewhere. edit: oops, i left out the water pump info doing a water pump is CAKE! its just a few bolts, the real job in doing the water pump is the timing belt! the water pump is off to the side, its the most accessible part on the timing side.

02-21-2007, 01:08 AM	#3 (permalink)
mr2greasemonkey Once again....yups Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Portland, OR Posts: 1,658 Thanks: 4 Thanked 63 Times in 42 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	You might as well do the front seals too while your at it, cams and crank. Not a bad time to replace the oil pump seal and o-ring also.

02-21-2007, 02:01 AM	#4 (permalink)
TomsMR2 Still not heraldo. Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Pineapple under the sea Posts: 4,912 Thanks: 18 Thanked 406 Times in 303 Posts Blog Entries: 1 iTrader Rating: (4/100% )	^ forgot about those, do replace your seals while you're in there! they're fairly cheap, even from toyota.

02-21-2007, 08:17 PM	#5 (permalink)
texan_176 91 NA Hardtop Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Houston TX Posts: 163 Thanks: 2 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts iTrader Rating: (4/100% )	The seals just pop out with a pick and just press back in by hand; yes? I have a cam seal already that was left from my 91 Celica. The oil pump seals and crank seal will have to be purchased. Thanks for the tips. I expect my parts to arrive late next week.

02-21-2007, 08:36 PM	#6 (permalink)
TomsMR2 Still not heraldo. Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Pineapple under the sea Posts: 4,912 Thanks: 18 Thanked 406 Times in 303 Posts Blog Entries: 1 iTrader Rating: (4/100% )	i strongly prefer a corkscrew puller.. but yes, they just pop in and out you'll need a wooden dowl (or seal driver, but whatever) to hammer them back in, but its nothing major.