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Old 05-08-2009, 01:44 PM   #1 (permalink)
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I need better brakes!

i just did the brakes on all 4 corners and my pedal still feels mushy. nowhere near like i think it should. I bled them twice and even took it to Big O to have them bleed them but the same result. Is this normal for the NA? this is my 3rd NA and I dont remember having this problem before. The pedal wont go to the floor but to me feels like it goes too far. Will braided lines help this? Switching to DOT 4 fluid? Rebuild kit for the rotors? turbo master cylinder? I am running slotted rotors. The car stops but not like it should.
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Old 05-08-2009, 03:22 PM   #2 (permalink)
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maybe the master is bad. check the vacuum line on the booster.
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Old 05-08-2009, 05:01 PM   #3 (permalink)
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how do i do that? will a turbo master work with the NA? is it the same?
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Old 05-08-2009, 05:12 PM   #4 (permalink)
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stop trying to hunt for reasons to waste your money

something in your braking system is broken. you gotta find what broke, and replace it. bone stock 91 brakes are strong enough to win nationals in autox.
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Old 05-09-2009, 12:45 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
stop trying to hunt for reasons to waste your money
thats why i posted on here. i might just take it to brake masters and see what they can find. I went through the system last weekend and couldnt find anything wrong
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Old 05-09-2009, 05:45 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Did you bleed it properly? Only things I know if that will cause mushy brakes is air in the lines, leaking fluids, or a bad valve in the cylinder...
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Old 05-09-2009, 08:53 PM   #7 (permalink)
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yeah, i bled them twice and then took it to a shop and had them do it as well. same result. Maybe one or more of my calipers is sticking. i might have to rebuild them. thats the only thing i can think of.
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Old 05-10-2009, 01:56 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I had squishy brake in my race car and it was a bad brake master (not the whole booster just the master). I replaced it because I had another new one for it anyway. I don't know how to check for a bad master without replacing it, because if it's not a bad master you've wasted your money. Check the free things first before replacing stuff.

Btw is it using any fluid?
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Old 05-10-2009, 11:27 PM   #9 (permalink)
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thanks for the info. no, the level has stayed the same.
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Old 05-11-2009, 08:31 PM   #10 (permalink)
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thanks for the info. no, the level has stayed the same.
I had a similar problem with my car lately it turned out that my master cylinder started to sweat a little (almost not noticeable upon visual inspection), and my front brake hoses were dry rotted, I replaced both of those along with the front pads and it stiffened up the pedal nicely.

Right now I need to replace the front rotors I want to get some slotted but I am not sure what I want to go with, I have had power slot rotors on my car for the past 6 years/30,000 miles and they have just now begun to warp. I am looking to spend below 180 for a pair. Does anyone one have any recommendations? How are EBC rotors?
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Old 05-11-2009, 08:33 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Mine used to be like that then I bought a really nice clean low mile master cylinder from a 94 turbo and HUGE difference. I agree with tom, you don't need anything past the stock brakes as long as they're in good working condition.
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Old 05-11-2009, 11:14 PM   #12 (permalink)
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It could just be me. i'll try to pick up a turbo master and see what happens. thanks for the replies.
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Old 05-12-2009, 10:26 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
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bone stock 91 brakes are strong enough to win nationals in autox.
Not to completey throw everyone on subject here.... (btw, same problem in my Integra, had air in my lines, my friend at the bleeder valve was doing it wrong)

Planning a motor swap at the end of the summer but was going to replace brakes soon. Most people I have talked to said upgrade to turbo brakes. You think they will suffice?
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Old 05-12-2009, 06:30 PM   #14 (permalink)
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The only difference between the n/a brakes and the turbo brakes with street tyres is that the turbo brakes will stop you more times without fading where the n/a brakes can't dissipate the heat as fast. They both will up to that point both stop you equally fast on normal tyres. The mr2 has pretty good stock brakes. Depends on how many high speed slowdowns you intend to do in a row.
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Old 05-12-2009, 10:48 PM   #15 (permalink)
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When I was on the mazda boards, you could swap supercharged millenia s brakes into mx6 and ford probes by essentially just buying the s pads and rotors. How different are the pads and rotors of the n/a and turbo MR2? Could I run turbo pads and rotors in my n/a or would I need tons of stuff (calipers, master cylinder, hubs, etc)?
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Old 05-12-2009, 10:58 PM   #16 (permalink)
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IIRC the turbo rear brakes are bigger and the front are the same as an N/A.
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Old 05-13-2009, 11:19 AM   #17 (permalink)
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I have always heard that the most upgrading you will need to do to your braking system is swapping turbo rotors/calipers and SS braided lines. And, of course, running good metallic brake pads. Anything besides that and you are throwing money away.
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Old 05-13-2009, 11:31 AM   #18 (permalink)
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I have always heard that the most upgrading you will need to do to your braking system is swapping turbo rotors/calipers and SS braided lines. And, of course, running good metallic brake pads. Anything besides that and you are throwing money away.
Exactly what I was expecting and hoping to hear
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Old 05-13-2009, 01:41 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I'm only once source though, and while I would consider myself fairly knowledgeable about MR2's I am nowhere close so some of our guru's here on the board.

I don't know if you need any other parts for a turbo brake swap though, I would search it. But definitely upgrade to SS braided lines, and good quality pads. But make sure your pads are matched to your application.
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Old 05-15-2009, 10:36 AM   #20 (permalink)
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MkII big brake conversion parts

Parts list and costs. The brake booster is slightly larger, but isn't really needed.

There should be a few threads comparing the NA and Turbo brakes on here too.
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