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#1 (permalink) |
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Om Nom Nom Nom
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Puyallup
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Front brake discs?
Ok so i just finished cleaning up the rear brakes and puttin on fresh pads when i decided to check the front as well. they looked alright but i was wondering how do you take the front discs off? Are they like the rears and just slide right off, which would me mine are rusted in place or what? Any suggestions would be helpful.
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#2 (permalink) |
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Crazy Nasty Honey Badger
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: New Zealand
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Just unbolt then lift off the whole caliper and put it to one side. You don't have to even undo the hose but make sure you support the caliper so it doesn't hang by it if you don't undo it. Then just pop the disk off the studs. Sometimes they are stuck solid and if they are just wind a correctly sized bolt into the threaded holes and evenly tighten them so it winds it off and then it will drop on the floor.
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#3 (permalink) |
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Om Nom Nom Nom
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Puyallup
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hmm im not really understanding how tighting nuts down on the wheel studs will make the discs come off or loosen the so they come off but either way it sounds as tho they are just rusted on and i could use a rubber mallet to break them loose?
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#4 (permalink) |
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My other cars are jealous
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Bellingham, WA
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He's talking about two smallish pre-threaded holes on the hub face of the disc. They are located slightly inboard of the wheel studs.
Thread a couple bolts into the holes and you can use them to slowly push the rotor off the hub instead of using a hammer. I found that little trick after I had already attacked one rotor with a hammer... |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Om Nom Nom Nom
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Puyallup
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hmm i dont remember seeing those but i look when i go back home (at work right now) but i already got them off by talking to them with a big rubber mallet and that seemed to change their mind. thx tho
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#6 (permalink) |
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gimme some turns
Join Date: Apr 2006
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+1 to the hammer method if you're just going to toss them in the trash
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#7 (permalink) |
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I put the ho in 'hosale
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Huntsville, AL
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If you're going to use a hammer, you need to place a block of wood between the rotor and hammer face. Otherwise you're going to leave lovely little dents since you'll have to whack that sucker 73 times.
The bolt method is the best way to do it, but depending on the age of the rotor, the threads in there may be pretty weak. Also, if using the BFH, hit the protected rotor, then turn it a bit , so you're applying semi-equal pressure on the rotor, it would suck the get the rotor wedged on their even more. (kind of like the star pattern when tightening lug nuts down. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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I put the ho in 'hosale
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 468
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Thanked 16 Times in 12 Posts
iTrader Rating: (4/100% ) |
If you're going to use a hammer, you need to place a block of wood between the rotor and hammer face. Otherwise you're going to leave lovely little dents since you'll have to whack that sucker 73 times.
The bolt method is the best way to do it, but depending on the age of the rotor, the threads in there may be pretty weak. Also, if using the BFH, hit the protected rotor, then turn it a bit , so you're applying semi-equal pressure on the rotor, it would suck the get the rotor wedged on their even more. (kind of like the star pattern when tightening lug nuts down. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Om Nom Nom Nom
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Puyallup
Posts: 1,056
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yea i got it off with the mallet but why would i need to cover the mallet isnt that the whole purpose of having a rubber mallet so it doesnt damage stuff?
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#10 (permalink) | |
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I put the ho in 'hosale
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 468
Thanks: 8
Thanked 16 Times in 12 Posts
iTrader Rating: (4/100% ) |
Quote:
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