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#1 (permalink) |
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Mister 2
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Central Ohio
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catalytic converter clogged?
My car went into limp mode a few months ago and Ive been having trouble getting it out as far as I know it could be because my thermostat and radiator arent working but I'm hoping it might just be the cat con but I dont know where it is, is it under the head shield up on the downpipe?
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#3 (permalink) |
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Armchair Racer
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Novi, MI
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Presumably NA since it's posted in the NA forum, but I could be wrong or he may have accidentally picked the wrong forum.
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#4 (permalink) |
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Mister 2
Join Date: Apr 2009
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yes it is in N/A forum for a reason and please I do need help
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#5 (permalink) |
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Armchair Racer
Join Date: Aug 2008
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You could just have a look under the car, follow the downpipe up and you'll run into the cat. I dunno about top access though, the bolts holding my heat plate are rust welded on, and the heads shear off when you try to break them loose.
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#6 (permalink) |
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Mister 2
Join Date: Apr 2009
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how can i tell if this is the problem, do I need to get an OBDI test?
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#7 (permalink) |
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gimme some turns
Join Date: Apr 2006
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I had the cat clog up on my 1994 NA race car - no check engine lights or anything, no limp mode, just would not make any power at all - wouldn't even hit the rev limiter in neutral
The cat hangs right off the end of the exhaust manifold - to get it out to replace it you really need to pull the manifold and cat out as a unit, then separate the two once they're out of the car. hope that helps some! |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Tucson, AZ
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you can just gut it. It will still pass smog as long as your car is running right.
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#9 (permalink) | |
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My other cars are jealous
Join Date: Feb 2007
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Quote:
The factory manual goes over how to pull trouble codes, I think that's what you're calling an OBDI test. You can download the manual here: 1991 mr2 repair manual or view it here: http://www.mr2-tech.com/bgb/mechanic...mechanical.htm -Bandwith exceded at the moment, you'll still want to bookmark the site. FI-25 is the page you want. You don't need a special tool, a paperclip will work fine. With the ignition on, engine off, jumper TE1 and E1 of the diagnostic connector (passenger side of the engine bay behind the intake manifold). Count the number of times the check engine light flashes: example for code 21 - 2 quick flashes a 1.5 sec pause, 1 flash. There is a 2.5 second pause between codes and a 4.5 second pause after all the codes have been read. It will then repeat until you remove the jumper. If you downloaded the manual, see page FI-30. Otherwise search this board or google Toyota MR2 DTC to get the meanings of the codes if the above link isn't working yet. |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Still not heraldo.
Join Date: Feb 2005
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i dont think na's even have a limp mode. the check engine light kinda just goes on, and thats it. if you disconnect a critical sensor, the engine just dies. no limp mode.
you're kinda all over the place.. thermostats, radiators, cats.. what exactly is your car doing that you think needs to be fixed?
__________________
Science fact: If you took all the veins from your body and laid them end to end, you would die. |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Mister 2
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Central Ohio
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well it just doesnt rev past 2000 rpms the check engine light Is on I havent did a diagnosed it yet..
I was driving it and it just died and then now it does the limiter I dont know if it is limp mode or not I don't know what it is doing |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Mister 2
Join Date: Apr 2009
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OK just did the paperclip diagnostic and got 22 and 41, 22 I know already its my water temperature sensor I need a new one
41 is throttle position sensor signal, would that cause my 2000 rpm limit issue and how do I find out how to fix it? |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Not A VR6
Join Date: Dec 2007
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hollow the cat out. i did it to mine and no lights ever and still get great mpg
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