my 5sfte project - Page 4

killermillermr2 · 07-29-2009, 05:17 PM

Stock DP and my engine bay gets hot as H#LL! I did wrap the gutted cat with some leftover header wrap i had laying around. I am going to make a heat shield to go between the exhaust manni,DP and the IC piping. Might help

tstoney82 · 07-29-2009, 08:10 PM

ok thats what i was figuring with my coolant lines. i have a short line and a long line. i was gonna route the short one to the coolant line by the intake manifold and the long one to the one by the oil filter.

i am using a custom DP but im not sure how hot its gonna get yet. i havent started the car.....

but anyways, i got the vacuum lines connected. pretty simple. i also hooked up the exhaust and the oil tube on the bottom of the turbo. i had to bend the larger of the two oil lines on the bottom side of the turbo to make it fit. i know that this one goes to the oil pan, meaning its a return line. but what about the smaller one? is it an oil feed line or is it another return line of some type?

looks like all i have left to hook up is the BTM, tach adaptor, and the boost guage and its time to tune!!!

one more question......do i have to replace the diagnostic link in the rear (passenger side by the trunk) with one from a 3sgte? i have one, but it looks the same as the 5sfe one.

killermillermr2 · 07-29-2009, 08:35 PM

I think by diagnostic link you mean MAP sensor (Toyota calls it a turbo pressure sensor) And yes you need to replace that. The stock 5s MAP sensor is one bar, meaning it reads from whatever vaccum to 0psi. The stock turbo MAP sensor is 2 bar meaning it reads from vac. to 12 or 14 psi (IIRC). These are on a 0-5 volt range.

This?

Thats also a good pic of the capped off vac ports I was talking about earlier

The smaller of the two hard pipes is the oil feed. Do you have that special T for using the oil pressure sensor feed? You will need to cut off the banjo part of the oil feed line and use a modified 3/8 crush fitting to jic or weld on a jic fitting.

(P.S. Its gunna get hot!)

tstoney82 · 07-29-2009, 08:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by killermillermr2

Do you have that special T for using the oil pressure sensor feed? You will need to cut off the banjo part of the oil feed line and use a modified 3/8 crush fitting to jic or weld on a jic fitting.

i have no idea what you are talking about. any pics to help out?

ok im replacing the map sensor right now

tstoney82 · 07-29-2009, 08:59 PM

ok is there anything that goes to this side of the bov?

killermillermr2 · 07-29-2009, 09:18 PM

There is a recirculation pipe that goes on there for the 3s. Since you are using a MAP sensor for fueling instead of a MAF sensor it will be fine vented atmosphericaly(sp?) I just put some bronze screen on mine because of the dirt roads. I will see what pics I have for the oil feed.

killermillermr2 · 07-29-2009, 09:26 PM

Oil pipe before modding banjo fitting

After modding banjo bolt to fit 3 or 4 JIC (3 is perfered){some weld on steel fittings} That is the T for using the oil pressure sensor hole in the head.If you need the specs on that LMK, it needs a wierd combo of metric and english pipe threads.

Also, the 2 T's were for tapping into the coolant lines to the TB, but I think drilling and tapping the gooseneck bolts worked out fine. Only needed about 6 or 7 inches of that oil hose as well.

tstoney82 · 07-29-2009, 10:10 PM

the one i had already had the banjo fitting off of it and a line coming off of it with about 7 inches of tubing. pics for the location of the oil pressure sensor hole in the head would be good. i usually have alldata at my finger tips but alldata doesnt like macs for some reason. and specs for that T would be great.

killermillermr2 · 07-29-2009, 11:06 PM

A good pic of that T is on post 59 of this tread, 1st pic, just above the coolant hose. Sounds like oil feed has been modifed already. you need to make sure there is a slight restriction in your oil feed, as too much flow will cause blow by. my #4 jic fittings have about 3/32-1/8 opening, that is plenty.
Well I tried making a diagram of that T but I cannot get it up here. I will have to wait until my wife can help me. she is more computer inclined than I am.

Jist is, you need one end with a male 1/8 BSPT (british standard pipe thread)to screw into the head, one with a female 1/8 BSPT to screw in the oil pressure sensor, and one with 1/8 NPT(national pipe thread) to screw in fitting for turbo oil feed. I tapped 2 ends at female 1/8 NPT and screwed in a 1/8 nipple in one. then I ran a 1/8 BSPT tap over the end of that nipple, cuts great new threads for the male end.

1/8 NPT=27 tpi 3/4'' tpf(i think)
1/8 BSPT=28 tpi and slightly less taper

presure2 · 07-30-2009, 09:18 AM

Store Temporarily Closed for Maintenance has a steel fitting with bspt threads for the head, 1/8th npt for aftermarket oil pressure senders, and th bspt on the end for the stock idiot light.
and its steel, which is much better than the soft brass that will crack and send hot oil everywhere.

killermillermr2 · 07-30-2009, 02:38 PM

I use brass fittings everyday at work that keep oil rigs running for years. Brass is fine for this application, but steel is always stronger and more reliable. The T I made is out of 1" keystock, but all the fittings are brass. I did use a steel nipple to connect the T to the head because my T and all the stuff attached to it is kind of heavy. My oil did fail once, but it was due to poor tubing. Since have swiched to 1/8 copper tubing and all is good.

To me, the weakest piont of the whole thing is the alluminum threads in the head. Alluminum is softer than brass.

tstoney82 · 08-01-2009, 01:22 AM

ok so bad days at work, beer, and too many wires leads to an epic fail at electrical work. ive read other posts and seen the diagrams that have been posted and even looked at the instructions i have and nothing is working out. i just kinda stared at it and said "F*ck it....."

so here's the issue. i have the btm and a new tach adaptor. i have the instructions for the tach adaptor because it was still new in the box. the btm, on the other hand is used with no instructions. ive searched the threads and even got assistance from some of you guys on how to install the btm. as i was looking through i noticed the diagram that i was sent a link to is no longer on the forum....anywhere.....and my dumb ass didnt print it......fail #1. so i did some more research and i came across some info on a different forum. i decided not to chance it and i printed it out. so i go out to the car, mount the btm and tach adaptor and noticed that i skipped the very first step......"mount it close enough to reach the coil"......fail #2. so i remounted them and had a few beers......which ended up being fail #3 due to the fact i forgot i had to pick my kids up from school today since my wife had to work late. so i picked them up and decided to go back at it. i was determined to get it done. so i followed the instructions step by step and, damn, within an hour or so i was done.......so i thought......come to find out the btm i have already has a tach adaptor connected to it and i actually added the second one (the new one) to it.......fail #4. so i took it all back apart and i have no idea what to do. im not even sure that the thing i thought was a tach adaptor was actually a tach adaptor or part of the btm.....either way i ended up missing dinner, putting my kids to bed, and pissing off my wife......now its 1:30 am, my car isnt running, i have no idea what i have and what i dont (or even how to install it now) and i have to work in 5 hours......and im not even tired yet......

my life sucks right now....anyone want to trade?

oh yeah and any help, preferably with pics, would be extremely helpful. i'll take some pics of what i have so you guys can shoot some ideas my way.

killermillermr2 · 08-01-2009, 02:21 AM

Sorry, I am a little drunk so the typing might not be well

but this is the 8910eis tack addaptor

this is the rest of what you need.

I can look at mine tommorw and get the wiring wrote down, but lets see what your working with as well

SW21T · 08-01-2009, 02:26 AM

I put both in the trunk. I had no room for the 8910eis in the motor

killermillermr2 · 08-01-2009, 02:27 AM

Yeah, I mounted it where your intercooler is huh.

SW21T · 08-01-2009, 02:28 AM

Yeah you did, Do you have your fire wall??

killermillermr2 · 08-01-2009, 02:32 AM

I dont know if you have seen this or not, but the wiring is explained in post 2. the tack addaptor should plug right in as well as the control knob. then follow the wiring description here. http://www.mr2.com/forums/efi-corner...tall-help.html

killermillermr2 · 08-01-2009, 02:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YELLOW_MR2

Yeah you did, Do you have your fire wall??

Between the engine bay and trunk? yeah... thats whats supporting the BTM and controller.

SW21T · 08-01-2009, 02:40 AM

No between the motor and the cockpit.

presure2 · 08-01-2009, 08:19 AM

yea, what do i know, i've only been running the 5sfte for 4+ years, first one above 300whp on the stock ecu, ect..lmao.
google brass T + cracking and see what you find.
those ****ty brass T's have been used for years, and sometimes they last, but lots of them crack over time.
i'd rather spend the extra 15$ now, and know it will last than save 15$ and have my car burn to the ground.

07-29-2009, 08:35 PM	#63 (permalink)
killermillermr2 Honda Hunter Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Colorado Posts: 864 Thanks: 25 Thanked 28 Times in 28 Posts iTrader Rating: (10/100% )	I think by diagnostic link you mean MAP sensor (Toyota calls it a turbo pressure sensor) And yes you need to replace that. The stock 5s MAP sensor is one bar, meaning it reads from whatever vaccum to 0psi. The stock turbo MAP sensor is 2 bar meaning it reads from vac. to 12 or 14 psi (IIRC). These are on a 0-5 volt range. This? Thats also a good pic of the capped off vac ports I was talking about earlier The smaller of the two hard pipes is the oil feed. Do you have that special T for using the oil pressure sensor feed? You will need to cut off the banjo part of the oil feed line and use a modified 3/8 crush fitting to jic or weld on a jic fitting. (P.S. Its gunna get hot!) Attached Thumbnails Last edited by killermillermr2; 07-29-2009 at 08:44 PM..

07-29-2009, 09:26 PM	#67 (permalink)
killermillermr2 Honda Hunter Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Colorado Posts: 864 Thanks: 25 Thanked 28 Times in 28 Posts iTrader Rating: (10/100% )	Oil pipe before modding banjo fitting After modding banjo bolt to fit 3 or 4 JIC (3 is perfered){some weld on steel fittings} That is the T for using the oil pressure sensor hole in the head.If you need the specs on that LMK, it needs a wierd combo of metric and english pipe threads. Also, the 2 T's were for tapping into the coolant lines to the TB, but I think drilling and tapping the gooseneck bolts worked out fine. Only needed about 6 or 7 inches of that oil hose as well. Attached Thumbnails Last edited by killermillermr2; 07-29-2009 at 09:35 PM..

07-29-2009, 11:06 PM	#69 (permalink)
killermillermr2 Honda Hunter Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Colorado Posts: 864 Thanks: 25 Thanked 28 Times in 28 Posts iTrader Rating: (10/100% )	A good pic of that T is on post 59 of this tread, 1st pic, just above the coolant hose. Sounds like oil feed has been modifed already. you need to make sure there is a slight restriction in your oil feed, as too much flow will cause blow by. my #4 jic fittings have about 3/32-1/8 opening, that is plenty. Well I tried making a diagram of that T but I cannot get it up here. I will have to wait until my wife can help me. she is more computer inclined than I am. Jist is, you need one end with a male 1/8 BSPT (british standard pipe thread)to screw into the head, one with a female 1/8 BSPT to screw in the oil pressure sensor, and one with 1/8 NPT(national pipe thread) to screw in fitting for turbo oil feed. I tapped 2 ends at female 1/8 NPT and screwed in a 1/8 nipple in one. then I ran a 1/8 BSPT tap over the end of that nipple, cuts great new threads for the male end. 1/8 NPT=27 tpi 3/4'' tpf(i think) 1/8 BSPT=28 tpi and slightly less taper Last edited by killermillermr2; 07-29-2009 at 11:15 PM..

08-01-2009, 02:21 AM	#73 (permalink)
killermillermr2 Honda Hunter Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Colorado Posts: 864 Thanks: 25 Thanked 28 Times in 28 Posts iTrader Rating: (10/100% )	Sorry, I am a little drunk so the typing might not be well but this is the 8910eis tack addaptor this is the rest of what you need. I can look at mine tommorw and get the wiring wrote down, but lets see what your working with as well Attached Thumbnails

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07-29-2009, 05:17 PM	#61 (permalink)
killermillermr2 Honda Hunter Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Colorado Posts: 864 Thanks: 25 Thanked 28 Times in 28 Posts iTrader Rating: (10/100% )	Stock DP and my engine bay gets hot as H#LL! I did wrap the gutted cat with some leftover header wrap i had laying around. I am going to make a heat shield to go between the exhaust manni,DP and the IC piping. Might help

07-29-2009, 08:10 PM	#62 (permalink)
tstoney82 one hitter quiter.... Join Date: May 2009 Location: clayton nc Posts: 638 Thanks: 16 Thanked 18 Times in 16 Posts iTrader Rating: (4/100% )	ok thats what i was figuring with my coolant lines. i have a short line and a long line. i was gonna route the short one to the coolant line by the intake manifold and the long one to the one by the oil filter. i am using a custom DP but im not sure how hot its gonna get yet. i havent started the car..... but anyways, i got the vacuum lines connected. pretty simple. i also hooked up the exhaust and the oil tube on the bottom of the turbo. i had to bend the larger of the two oil lines on the bottom side of the turbo to make it fit. i know that this one goes to the oil pan, meaning its a return line. but what about the smaller one? is it an oil feed line or is it another return line of some type? looks like all i have left to hook up is the BTM, tach adaptor, and the boost guage and its time to tune!!! one more question......do i have to replace the diagnostic link in the rear (passenger side by the trunk) with one from a 3sgte? i have one, but it looks the same as the 5sfe one.

07-29-2009, 08:59 PM	#65 (permalink)
tstoney82 one hitter quiter.... Join Date: May 2009 Location: clayton nc Posts: 638 Thanks: 16 Thanked 18 Times in 16 Posts iTrader Rating: (4/100% )	ok is there anything that goes to this side of the bov?

07-29-2009, 09:18 PM	#66 (permalink)
killermillermr2 Honda Hunter Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Colorado Posts: 864 Thanks: 25 Thanked 28 Times in 28 Posts iTrader Rating: (10/100% )	There is a recirculation pipe that goes on there for the 3s. Since you are using a MAP sensor for fueling instead of a MAF sensor it will be fine vented atmosphericaly(sp?) I just put some bronze screen on mine because of the dirt roads. I will see what pics I have for the oil feed.

07-29-2009, 10:10 PM	#68 (permalink)
tstoney82 one hitter quiter.... Join Date: May 2009 Location: clayton nc Posts: 638 Thanks: 16 Thanked 18 Times in 16 Posts iTrader Rating: (4/100% )	the one i had already had the banjo fitting off of it and a line coming off of it with about 7 inches of tubing. pics for the location of the oil pressure sensor hole in the head would be good. i usually have alldata at my finger tips but alldata doesnt like macs for some reason. and specs for that T would be great.

07-30-2009, 09:18 AM	#70 (permalink)
presure2 Team 5SFTE Pro Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: fall river, MA Posts: 132 Thanks: 1 Thanked 13 Times in 13 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	Store Temporarily Closed for Maintenance has a steel fitting with bspt threads for the head, 1/8th npt for aftermarket oil pressure senders, and th bspt on the end for the stock idiot light. and its steel, which is much better than the soft brass that will crack and send hot oil everywhere.

07-30-2009, 02:38 PM	#71 (permalink)
killermillermr2 Honda Hunter Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Colorado Posts: 864 Thanks: 25 Thanked 28 Times in 28 Posts iTrader Rating: (10/100% )	I use brass fittings everyday at work that keep oil rigs running for years. Brass is fine for this application, but steel is always stronger and more reliable. The T I made is out of 1" keystock, but all the fittings are brass. I did use a steel nipple to connect the T to the head because my T and all the stuff attached to it is kind of heavy. My oil did fail once, but it was due to poor tubing. Since have swiched to 1/8 copper tubing and all is good. To me, the weakest piont of the whole thing is the alluminum threads in the head. Alluminum is softer than brass.

08-01-2009, 01:22 AM	#72 (permalink)
tstoney82 one hitter quiter.... Join Date: May 2009 Location: clayton nc Posts: 638 Thanks: 16 Thanked 18 Times in 16 Posts iTrader Rating: (4/100% )	ok so bad days at work, beer, and too many wires leads to an epic fail at electrical work. ive read other posts and seen the diagrams that have been posted and even looked at the instructions i have and nothing is working out. i just kinda stared at it and said "F*ck it....." so here's the issue. i have the btm and a new tach adaptor. i have the instructions for the tach adaptor because it was still new in the box. the btm, on the other hand is used with no instructions. ive searched the threads and even got assistance from some of you guys on how to install the btm. as i was looking through i noticed the diagram that i was sent a link to is no longer on the forum....anywhere.....and my dumb ass didnt print it......fail #1. so i did some more research and i came across some info on a different forum. i decided not to chance it and i printed it out. so i go out to the car, mount the btm and tach adaptor and noticed that i skipped the very first step......"mount it close enough to reach the coil"......fail #2. so i remounted them and had a few beers......which ended up being fail #3 due to the fact i forgot i had to pick my kids up from school today since my wife had to work late. so i picked them up and decided to go back at it. i was determined to get it done. so i followed the instructions step by step and, damn, within an hour or so i was done.......so i thought......come to find out the btm i have already has a tach adaptor connected to it and i actually added the second one (the new one) to it.......fail #4. so i took it all back apart and i have no idea what to do. im not even sure that the thing i thought was a tach adaptor was actually a tach adaptor or part of the btm.....either way i ended up missing dinner, putting my kids to bed, and pissing off my wife......now its 1:30 am, my car isnt running, i have no idea what i have and what i dont (or even how to install it now) and i have to work in 5 hours......and im not even tired yet...... my life sucks right now....anyone want to trade? oh yeah and any help, preferably with pics, would be extremely helpful. i'll take some pics of what i have so you guys can shoot some ideas my way.

08-01-2009, 02:26 AM	#74 (permalink)
SW21T 400HP 3rd gen?? Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Washington St Posts: 1,853 Thanks: 143 Thanked 32 Times in 30 Posts iTrader Rating: (18/100% )	I put both in the trunk. I had no room for the 8910eis in the motor

08-01-2009, 02:27 AM	#75 (permalink)
killermillermr2 Honda Hunter Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Colorado Posts: 864 Thanks: 25 Thanked 28 Times in 28 Posts iTrader Rating: (10/100% )	Yeah, I mounted it where your intercooler is huh.

08-01-2009, 02:28 AM	#76 (permalink)
SW21T 400HP 3rd gen?? Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Washington St Posts: 1,853 Thanks: 143 Thanked 32 Times in 30 Posts iTrader Rating: (18/100% )	Yeah you did, Do you have your fire wall??

08-01-2009, 02:32 AM	#77 (permalink)
killermillermr2 Honda Hunter Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Colorado Posts: 864 Thanks: 25 Thanked 28 Times in 28 Posts iTrader Rating: (10/100% )	I dont know if you have seen this or not, but the wiring is explained in post 2. the tack addaptor should plug right in as well as the control knob. then follow the wiring description here. http://www.mr2.com/forums/efi-corner...tall-help.html

08-01-2009, 02:40 AM	#79 (permalink)
SW21T 400HP 3rd gen?? Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Washington St Posts: 1,853 Thanks: 143 Thanked 32 Times in 30 Posts iTrader Rating: (18/100% )	No between the motor and the cockpit.

08-01-2009, 08:19 AM	#80 (permalink)
presure2 Team 5SFTE Pro Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: fall river, MA Posts: 132 Thanks: 1 Thanked 13 Times in 13 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	yea, what do i know, i've only been running the 5sfte for 4+ years, first one above 300whp on the stock ecu, ect..lmao. google brass T + cracking and see what you find. those ****ty brass T's have been used for years, and sometimes they last, but lots of them crack over time. i'd rather spend the extra 15$ now, and know it will last than save 15$ and have my car burn to the ground.