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Old 10-04-2009, 02:18 AM   #141 (permalink)
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Sorry, I was remembering from my 93 and gave you wrong info. The 93+ has two hoses but I just looked and the 91-92s do not. They both have the crankcase vent on the valve cover like in Killermillermr2's pictures. The 93+s also have a PCV valve on top that must be routed from before the turbo as well. I have also seen a couple of people make a second vent on the 91-92s to get more vacuum to the crankcase. Someone put a fitting in their oil cap to do this which is probably easier then drilling and tapping the valve cover.
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Old 10-04-2009, 12:46 PM   #142 (permalink)
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so if i just run a catch can on it then my problems will be solved once i get my lines replaced?
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Old 10-04-2009, 01:10 PM   #143 (permalink)
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From what you have described yes. If you can just keep boost out of the crank case then the oil leaks will stop appearing. The fact that you did not see leaks until you went into boost indicates the boost was causing them. There is no other explaination I can think of.
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Old 10-04-2009, 10:09 PM   #144 (permalink)
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ok so today i have hooked up the catch can, filled it with some oil (the engine not the catch), and cleaned the areas that i know were leaking so i could detect any new leaks. drove it around the block, built some boost, and pulled in the driveway.....and it leaks....so i guess i am gonna try replacing the lines and take it from there.
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Old 10-05-2009, 01:57 AM   #145 (permalink)
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Can you post a picture of your catch can and tubing routing? I think mrturrari is right, it sounds like you might be accidentally pressurizing your crankcase which is causing the leaks.
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Old 10-05-2009, 08:05 PM   #146 (permalink)
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i have it set up exactly like killer's. im thinking i just need to tap my other oil pan and try some different hoses along with tapping the turbo or making some custom connections for stainless braided lines.
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Old 10-05-2009, 08:54 PM   #147 (permalink)
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Modified .20 oz and all? haha I would be much happier with a rock'n rye Faygo though.
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Old 10-05-2009, 09:29 PM   #148 (permalink)
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i went a little classier and used an aquafina bottle. but i was wondering if the shape of the classic coke bottle would allow more proper air flow.
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Old 10-05-2009, 09:43 PM   #149 (permalink)
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Yeah, but if you ever got pulled over and the cop looked in your engine bay; he would probably ask why you have a bong under your hood
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Old 10-06-2009, 04:52 PM   #150 (permalink)
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cops here dont look in engine bays. which i hear is a good thing. but anyways, back to my oil leak issue. ive sourced another pan to tap so thats ready to go. now should i just tap the turbo or would you recommend welding some connectors to the black hardlines?
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Old 10-06-2009, 08:57 PM   #151 (permalink)
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If you have the capabilities I would make a whole new flange to bolt onto the turbo. I would NOT drill and tap the turbo itself. then you could just weld or tap on some AN fittings.
I found this @ 5sfeturbo.comV


For some reason I cant get the pic to come up, but go check that site and look at what he did for the oil feed/return.

Last edited by killermillermr2; 10-06-2009 at 09:23 PM..
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Old 10-06-2009, 09:27 PM   #152 (permalink)
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This might give you an ideaeBay.com.my: TOYOTA CT9 CT12 CT20 CT26 Turbo Oil Feed Flange Kit (item 120401094281 end time Oct 30, 2009 08:20:28 MYT)
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Old 10-06-2009, 10:58 PM   #153 (permalink)
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what kind of turbo manifolds are you guys using to fit the 2.2?? and where do you get them?
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Old 10-06-2009, 11:14 PM   #154 (permalink)
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The bolt pattern is the same from the 3sgte head to the 5sfe. The 3s has one more stud in the center that the 5s doesnt.

So basicaly any exhaust manni that fits the 3s should fit the 5s.
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Old 10-07-2009, 04:13 PM   #155 (permalink)
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thanks for the links killer. im thinking im gonna go this route when i get paid. so its looking like a week or so before i get the two running again.
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Old 10-08-2009, 07:01 PM   #156 (permalink)
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with a ct 26, IMO the best thing to do is weld a 3an steel fitting onto the stock hardline like this:



and use the stock oil pressure sensor location, and use an adapter and 3an line (with an oil restrictor) like this:



then you can use the stock 3sgte oil pan, and return line, with the stock rubber 90* elbow.
i've been running that exact setup for over 50kmiles now, without a single issue.
IMO crappy oil lines are the #1 biggest killer of 5sfte's everywhere. lol
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Old 10-09-2009, 12:52 AM   #157 (permalink)
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I cut off the banjo and used a modified 3/8" compression fitting for mine. The return interfered with the DP very bad so I cut it off right after the first bend and flared the end to just run rubber hose to the fitting in the oil pan. Sorry, I thought you had already done this and were still having problems.

Here is my oil feed before I cut the return, and also the home made T I made for using the oil pressure idiot light feed.


The return on the pan
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my-5sfte-project-img_3184.jpg   my-5sfte-project-img_3312.jpg  
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Old 10-15-2009, 10:26 PM   #158 (permalink)
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i would have done either one of those ideas, but the hardline that i received with my kit was severely molested when i got it. it looked nowhere near how either of yours looks. but its all good. i ordered some fittings (8an for the return, 4an for the feed) and some stainless braided lines, all which should be here by the end of next week. so hopefully my 2 will be drivable within the next two weeks if everything goes as planned.
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Old 10-16-2009, 01:10 AM   #159 (permalink)
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Good to hear! (except the molested part)
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Old 10-16-2009, 01:20 AM   #160 (permalink)
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i'll post picks when i get the parts and when the 2 is finally up and running i may take a video and post it.
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