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#141 (permalink) |
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I <3 my 5sfe
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Posts: 655
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Sorry, I was remembering from my 93 and gave you wrong info. The 93+ has two hoses but I just looked and the 91-92s do not. They both have the crankcase vent on the valve cover like in Killermillermr2's pictures. The 93+s also have a PCV valve on top that must be routed from before the turbo as well. I have also seen a couple of people make a second vent on the 91-92s to get more vacuum to the crankcase. Someone put a fitting in their oil cap to do this which is probably easier then drilling and tapping the valve cover.
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#142 (permalink) |
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one hitter quiter....
Join Date: May 2009
Location: clayton nc
Posts: 638
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Thanked 18 Times in 16 Posts
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so if i just run a catch can on it then my problems will be solved once i get my lines replaced?
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#143 (permalink) |
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I <3 my 5sfe
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Posts: 655
Thanks: 2
Thanked 170 Times in 113 Posts
iTrader Rating: (0/0% ) |
From what you have described yes. If you can just keep boost out of the crank case then the oil leaks will stop appearing. The fact that you did not see leaks until you went into boost indicates the boost was causing them. There is no other explaination I can think of.
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#144 (permalink) |
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one hitter quiter....
Join Date: May 2009
Location: clayton nc
Posts: 638
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ok so today i have hooked up the catch can, filled it with some oil (the engine not the catch), and cleaned the areas that i know were leaking so i could detect any new leaks. drove it around the block, built some boost, and pulled in the driveway.....and it leaks....so i guess i am gonna try replacing the lines and take it from there.
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#145 (permalink) |
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My other cars are jealous
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Bellingham, WA
Posts: 439
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Can you post a picture of your catch can and tubing routing? I think mrturrari is right, it sounds like you might be accidentally pressurizing your crankcase which is causing the leaks.
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#146 (permalink) |
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one hitter quiter....
Join Date: May 2009
Location: clayton nc
Posts: 638
Thanks: 16
Thanked 18 Times in 16 Posts
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i have it set up exactly like killer's. im thinking i just need to tap my other oil pan and try some different hoses along with tapping the turbo or making some custom connections for stainless braided lines.
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#148 (permalink) |
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one hitter quiter....
Join Date: May 2009
Location: clayton nc
Posts: 638
Thanks: 16
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i went a little classier and used an aquafina bottle. but i was wondering if the shape of the classic coke bottle would allow more proper air flow.
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#150 (permalink) |
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one hitter quiter....
Join Date: May 2009
Location: clayton nc
Posts: 638
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cops here dont look in engine bays. which i hear is a good thing. but anyways, back to my oil leak issue. ive sourced another pan to tap so thats ready to go. now should i just tap the turbo or would you recommend welding some connectors to the black hardlines?
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#151 (permalink) |
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Honda Hunter
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Colorado
Posts: 864
Thanks: 25
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If you have the capabilities I would make a whole new flange to bolt onto the turbo. I would NOT drill and tap the turbo itself. then you could just weld or tap on some AN fittings.
I found this @ 5sfeturbo.comV For some reason I cant get the pic to come up, but go check that site and look at what he did for the oil feed/return. Last edited by killermillermr2; 10-06-2009 at 09:23 PM.. |
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#154 (permalink) |
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Honda Hunter
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Colorado
Posts: 864
Thanks: 25
Thanked 28 Times in 28 Posts
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The bolt pattern is the same from the 3sgte head to the 5sfe. The 3s has one more stud in the center that the 5s doesnt.
So basicaly any exhaust manni that fits the 3s should fit the 5s. |
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#155 (permalink) |
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one hitter quiter....
Join Date: May 2009
Location: clayton nc
Posts: 638
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thanks for the links killer. im thinking im gonna go this route when i get paid. so its looking like a week or so before i get the two running again.
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#156 (permalink) |
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Team 5SFTE Pro Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: fall river, MA
Posts: 132
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with a ct 26, IMO the best thing to do is weld a 3an steel fitting onto the stock hardline like this:
![]() and use the stock oil pressure sensor location, and use an adapter and 3an line (with an oil restrictor) like this: ![]() then you can use the stock 3sgte oil pan, and return line, with the stock rubber 90* elbow. i've been running that exact setup for over 50kmiles now, without a single issue. IMO crappy oil lines are the #1 biggest killer of 5sfte's everywhere. lol |
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#157 (permalink) |
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Honda Hunter
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Colorado
Posts: 864
Thanks: 25
Thanked 28 Times in 28 Posts
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I cut off the banjo and used a modified 3/8" compression fitting for mine. The return interfered with the DP very bad so I cut it off right after the first bend and flared the end to just run rubber hose to the fitting in the oil pan. Sorry, I thought you had already done this and were still having problems.
Here is my oil feed before I cut the return, and also the home made T I made for using the oil pressure idiot light feed. ![]() The return on the pan ![]() |
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#158 (permalink) |
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one hitter quiter....
Join Date: May 2009
Location: clayton nc
Posts: 638
Thanks: 16
Thanked 18 Times in 16 Posts
iTrader Rating: (4/100% ) |
i would have done either one of those ideas, but the hardline that i received with my kit was severely molested when i got it. it looked nowhere near how either of yours looks. but its all good. i ordered some fittings (8an for the return, 4an for the feed) and some stainless braided lines, all which should be here by the end of next week. so hopefully my 2 will be drivable within the next two weeks if everything goes as planned.
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#160 (permalink) |
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one hitter quiter....
Join Date: May 2009
Location: clayton nc
Posts: 638
Thanks: 16
Thanked 18 Times in 16 Posts
iTrader Rating: (4/100% ) |
i'll post picks when i get the parts and when the 2 is finally up and running i may take a video and post it.
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