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#1 (permalink) |
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DrivingStraight=Overrated
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: St. Louis, MO
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New 5sfe, need help with tune up
I just got a my 1991 NA out of paint looks great and runs good
it's bone stock engine wise Buying a intake pipe with K&N cone heard about changing timing 14 degrees? and seafoam? What does this mean, and how do I do it? also buying NA 4-1 headers and down pipe(de-cat), using the stock piping after words and right after the curve in the pipe after the axle, cutting off and putting on a magna flow. Already put ngk iridium spark plugs in, need to get new wires as suggested and running plus gas any suggestions or advice? one more thing, the exhaust makes a slight noise like paper fluttering in it, first i thought it was an exhaust leak, but in only does it while i accelerate sometimes, like certain rpms, what is making this noise? Last edited by STLMR2na; 10-21-2009 at 01:27 PM.. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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DrivingStraight=Overrated
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: St. Louis, MO
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Stop using plus gas? couldn't i adjust the distributor to take advantage of the higher octane?
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#4 (permalink) | |
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gimme some turns
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Houston, TX
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Quote:
![]() that fluttering sound may be a baffle or something of that sort coming loose in the muffler. Its also heavy and worth a few horsepower, but finding something that sounds good is tough... |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to kbrew8991 For This Useful Post: | STLMR2na (10-21-2009) |
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#6 (permalink) |
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DrivingStraight=Overrated
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: St. Louis, MO
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i kno the intake dosn't do much,
Kbrew, what do you mean by running extra timing? |
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#7 (permalink) |
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gimme some turns
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Houston, TX
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stock timing advance is 10* (iirc, check the BGB to be sure). Bumping it up to 12-14* will get a bit better power, but it will also need higher octane gas to avoid detonation.
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#8 (permalink) |
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DrivingStraight=Overrated
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: St. Louis, MO
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i don't know timing or how to do that =P ugg
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#9 (permalink) |
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No Skills
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Bakersfield CA
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you would need a timing light gun to do the adjustment (or someone who has one). There is a service connector in the engine bay that needs a jumper placed in it between two of the connectors (don't remember which ones off hand) then you would check the timing by pointing the gun at the crank to view where the timing marks are on the crank pulley while the engine is idling. to adjust the timing you loosen the two mounting bolts for the distributor and rotate the distributor until you get the timing where you want it to be. After it is set where you want it, tighten down the mounting bolts and remove the jumper, that's about it.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to grjr For This Useful Post: | STLMR2na (10-22-2009) |
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#10 (permalink) |
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gimme some turns
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Houston, TX
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changing the ignition timing isn't that hard, but if you've never done it before it wouldn't hurt to have a knowledgeable friend looking over your shoulder to help
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#11 (permalink) |
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DrivingStraight=Overrated
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 1,053
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k i'll see if i lend my car to my friend and if he can do it at school
still don't know what seafoam is or how to apply it |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Mar 2008
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you can advance to 14 and not use premium. but when you run 17 like I did, then yes, it helps.
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#13 (permalink) |
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HAY GUISE!
Join Date: Sep 2008
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For the last week or so I've been running my car at about 19* before, and it didn't ping or detonate or anything. No problems whatsoever. And I run 89 octane.
But I just turned it back to about 14* yesterday, because running 19* of advance was doing nothing, if not actually hurting my power. @kbrew8991 - Yes, stock timing is 10* BTDC. Almost all computer-controlled cars use 10* of advance nowadays. |
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#14 (permalink) |
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DrivingStraight=Overrated
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: St. Louis, MO
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do u think not using premium when ur were at 19 was y ur power sucked?
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#15 (permalink) |
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HAY GUISE!
Join Date: Sep 2008
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No. I was not getting any detonation or pinging. Our motors have knock sensors, which listen for the pinging and when they hear it, they tell the PCM to retard the timing to stop the pinging.
The only way you'll lose power by not running 91 octane is if you're getting pinging. I would never run 87 octane in my car though. Like I said, I always run at least 89, it's better for your engine. There are additives in the gasoline that help your engine run a little better. |
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#17 (permalink) |
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DrivingStraight=Overrated
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 1,053
Thanks: 25
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iTrader Rating: (3/100% ) |
i knew running 89 was better, someone told me regular did the same, i knew i was right
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#18 (permalink) |
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DrivingStraight=Overrated
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 1,053
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iTrader Rating: (3/100% ) |
would running premium be a waste for my car right now since it's running 10
since i cant change it to 14 myself and is it hard to change a seepentine belt?, mine needs to be replaced, and i don't want to be stranded |
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#19 (permalink) | |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Mar 2008
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Quote:
we don't have one, just timing belt and accessory belts. the accessory belts are easy, but the timing belt is kinda hard. |
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#20 (permalink) | |
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No Skills
Join Date: Jul 2009
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there are three belts: the timing belt, the alternator belt and the air conditioning belt. the alt and ac belts should be tightened if you are getting squealing or they should be replaced if they are cracking/have pieces missing. |
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